
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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WESTOVER MANUSCRIPTS: 



CONTAINING 



THE HISTORY OF THE DIVIDmG LINE 



BETWIXT VIRGINIA AND NORTH CAROLINA ; 



A JOURNEY TO THE LAND OF EDEN, A. D. 1733; 



A PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 



WRITTEN FROM 1728 TO 1736, AND NOW FIRST PUBLISHED. 



BY WILLIAM BYRD, 

OF WESTOVER. 




PETERSBURG : 
PRINTED BY EDMUND AND JULIAN C. RUFFIN. 

1841. 






Entered, according to act of congress, in the year 1841, by Edmund Ruffin, in the 
Clerk's office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Virdnia. 



EDITOR'S PREFACE. 



The manuscripts of Col. William Byrd, of Westover, the father of the last 
proprietor of the same name, of different dates from 1728 to 1736, are con- 
tained in a large folio volume bound in parchment, which has been carefully- 
preserved in his 'family, until recently placed in the hands of the editor. The 
whole is in the hand-writing of a copyist, but written evidently under the 
immediate direction of its author, as tliere are numerous corrections, inter- 
lineations, and more considerable additions, in his own hand-writing. The 
book was doubtless copied exactly from the author's earliest draught on loose 
sheets, which were afterwards destroyed, as useless. At any rate, tliis old 
volume is the only copy in existence. The Historical Society of Virginia 
obtained the consent of the proprietor of the manuscripts to have them 
copied, with a view to publication. But the operations of that society ceased 
before the publication had been commenced, and when only one of the seve- 
ral manuscripts had been copied. It was one of the latest acts of the last 
proprietor, George E. Harrison, Esq., of Brandon, to place at our disposal 
this highly valued work of his distinguished and talented ancestor, with per- 
mission to publish any portion, or the whole of the contents, provided the 
manuscript volume itself should be preserved uninjured, and afterwards re- 
stored to the owner. The better to secure the latter object, the copy of the 
part made for the use of the Historical Society, has also been placed in our 
hands by the directors. 

The manuscripts offer abundant internal evidence that they were written 
merely for the amusement of the author, and for the perusal of his family 
and friends, and not with any view to their being printed. This adds much 
to their other and important value. For there prevails throughout, as in the 
private letters of an accomplished writer, a carelessness in the mode of ex- 
pression, and a manifest freedom from all restraint, w'hich together serve to 
render subjects pleasing and interesting, that, however worthy of consider- 
ation, would be dry and tedious if the writer had sought for the applause, or 
feared the censure, of the reading public. The author was a man "too 
proud to be vain," and who neither cared for, nor thought of seeking, public 
applause for his writings. The influence of that first feeling, and its results, 
naturally operated on his children and later descendants, to deter them also 
from publishing the manuscripts; and this course, besides being in con- 
formity with the writer's intention, was perhaps deemed the more proper, 
because of his great freedom of expression, and of censure, often tinctured 
by his strong "church and state'' principles and prejudices, and which might 
have given offence to some of the individuals or classes who were the sub- 
jects of his free remarks. But at this late time, there no longer remains, if 
there existed before, any reason for withholding these interesting writings 
from the public. And there is no free expression of even the prejudiced and 
erroneous opinions of the writer, which, to an intelligent and liberal-minded 
reader, would now give oflence. Col. Byrd was a true and worthy inhoitor 
of the opinions and feelings of the old cavaliers of Virginia ; and it is because 
from such a source, as well as being designed at first as private and confi- 
dential, that his writings should be now considered. 



iv PREFACE. 

Col. William Byrd died where he had long lived, at his then beautifully- 
decorated and princely mansion, Westover, on the north bank of James 
river; and which even at this late day exhibits admirable remains of his 
taste, and his magnificent scale of expenditure for its gratification. His body 
v\'as buried in the garden, and his grave is covered by a monument of white 
marble, on which is the following inscription : 

[on the north side.] 

Here lieth 

The Honorable William Byrd, Esq., 

Being born to one of the amplest fortunes in this country, 

He was sent early to England for his education ; 

Where, under the care and direction of Sir Robert Southwell, 

And ever favoured with his particular instructions, 

He made a happy proficiency in polite and various learning. , 

By the means of the same noble friend. 

He was introduced to the acquaintance of many of the first persons of that age 

For knowledge, wit, virtue, birth, or high station, 

And particularly contracted a most intimate and bosom friendship 

With the learned and illustrious Charles Boyle, Earl of Orrery. 

He was called to the bar in the Middle Temple, 

Studied for some time in the Low Countries, 

Visited the court of France, 
And was chosen Fellow of the Royal Society. 

[on the south side.] 

Thus eminently fitted for the service and ornament of his country, 

He was made receiver general of his majesty's revenues here. 

Was thrice appointed public agent to the court and ministry of England, 

And being thirty-seven years a member. 

At last became president of the council of this colony. 

To all this were added a great elegancy of taste and life, 

The well-bred gentleman and polite companion, 

The splendid economist and prudent father of a family, 

With the constant enemy of all exorbitant power, 

And hearty friend to the liberties of his country. 

Nat. Mar. 28, 1674. Mort. Aug. 26, 1744. An. £etat. 70. 



HISTORY 



OP 



THE DIVIDING LINE: 



RUN IN THE YEAR 1728. 



Before I enter upon the journal of the line between Virginia and North 
Carolina, it will be necessary to clear the way to it, by showing how the other 
British colonies on the Main have, one after another, been carved out of 
Virginia, by grants from his majesty's royal predecessors. All that part of 
the northern American continent now under the dominion of the king of 
Great Britain, and stretching quite as far as the cape of Florida, went at first 
under the general name of Virginia. 

The only distinction, in those early days, was, that all the coast to the 
southward of Chesapeake bay was called South Virginia, and all to the 
northward of it. North Virginia. 

The first settlement of this fine country was owing to that great ornament 
of the British nation, sir Walter Raleigh, who obtained a grant thereof from 
qi^een Ehzabeth of ever-glorious memory, by letters patent, dated March 
the 25th, 1584. 

But whether that gentleman ever made a voyage thither himself is uncer- 
tain ; because those who have favoured the public with an account of his life 
mention nothing of it. However, thus much may be depended on, that sir 
Walter invited sundry persons of distinction to share in his charter, and join 
their purses with his in the laudable project of fitting out a colony to Virginia. 

Accordingly, two ships were sent away that very year, under the command 
of his good friends Amidas and Barlow, to take possession of the country in 
the name of his royal mistress, the queen of England. 

These woilhy commanders, for the advantage of the trade winds, shaped 
their course first to the Charibbe islands, thence stretching away by the 
gulf of Florida, dropped anchor not far from Roanoke inlet. They ventured 
ashore near that place upon an island now called Colleton island, where they 
set up the arms of England, and claimed fhe adjacent country in right of their 
sovereign lady, the queen; and this ceremony being duly performed, they 
kindly invited the neighbouring Indians to traffick with them. 

These poor people at first approached the English with great caution, hav- 
ing heard much of the treachery of the Spaniards, and not knowing but these 
strangers might be as treacherous as they. But, at length, discovering a kind 
of good nature in their looks, they ventured to draw near, and barter their 
skins and furs for the bawbles and trinkets of the English. 

These first adventurers made a very profitable voyage, raising at least a 
thousand per cent, upon their cargo. Amongst other Indian commodities, 



2 THE HISTORY OF 

tliey brought over some of that bewitching vegetable, tobacco. And this be- 
ing tlie first that ever came to England, sir Walter thought he could do no 
less than make a present of some of the brightest of it to his royal mistress, 
for her own smoking. The queen graciously accepted of it, but finding her 
stomach sicken after two or three whiffs, it was presently whispered by the 
earl of Leicester's faction, that sir Walter had certainly poisoned her. But 
her majesty soon recovering her disorder, obliged the countess of Notting- 
ham and all her maids to smoke a whole pipe out amongst them. 

As it happened some ages before to be the fashion to saunter to the Holy 
Land, and go upon other Quixote adventures, so it was now grown the hu- 
mour to take a trip to America. The Spaniards had lately discovered rich 
mines in their part of the West Indies, which made their maritime neigh- 
bours eager to do so too. This modish frenzy being still more inflamed by 
the charming account given of Virginia, by the first adventurers, made many 
fond of removing to such a paradise. 

Happy was he, and still happier she, that could get themselves transported, 
fondly expecting their coarsest utensils, in that happy place, would be of 
massy silver. 

This made it easy for the company to procure as many volunteers as they 
wanted for their new colony ; but, like most other undertakei-s who have no 
assistance from the public, they starved the design by too much frugality ; for, 
unwilling to launch out at first into too much expense, they shipped off but 
few people at a time, and those but scantily provided. The adventurers 
were, besides, idle and extravagant, and expected they might live without 
work in so plentiful a country. 

These wretches were set ashore not far from Roanoke inlet, but by some 
fatal disagreement, or laziness, were either starved or cut to pieces by the 
Indians. 

Several repeated misadventures of this kind did, for some time, allay the 
itch of sailing to this new world ; but the distemper broke out again about 
the year 1606. Then it happened that the earl of Southampton and several 
other persons, eminent for their quality and estates, were invited into the 
company, who applied themselves once more to people the then almost aban- 
doned colony. For this purpose they embarked about a hundred men, most 
of them reprobates of good families, and related to some of the company, 
who were men of quality and fortune. 

The ships that carried them made a shift to find a more direct way to. Vir- 
ginia, and ventured through the capes into the bay of Chesapeake. The 
same night they came to an anchor at the mouth of Powhatan, the same as 
James river, where they built a small fort at a place called Point Comfort. 

This settlement stood its ground from that time forward in spite of all the 
blunders and disagreement of the first adventurers, and the many calamities 
tliat befel the colony afterwards.* 

* The six o;entlemen who wpre first named of the company by the crown, and who were 
empowered to choose an annual president from among themselvis, were always engaged in 
factions and quarrels, while the rest detested work more than famine. At this rate the 
colony must have come to nothing, had it not been for the vigilance and bravery of captain 
Smith, who struck a terror into all the Indians round about. This gentleman took some 
pains to persuade the men to plant Indian corn, but they looked upon all laboiu- as a curse. 
They chose rather to depend upon the musty provisions that were sent from England : and 
when they failed they were foiced to take moie pains to seek for wild iruits in the woods, 
than they would have taken in tilling the ground. Besides, this exposed them to be 
knocked on the head by the Indians, and gave them fluxes into the bargain, which thinned 
the plantation very much. To supply this mortality, they were reinforced the year follow- 
ing with a greater number of people, amongst which were fewer gentlemen and more la- 
bourers, wlio, however, took care not to kill them'^elves with work. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 3 

These found the first adventurers in a very starving condition, but lelieved 
their wants witli the fresh supply they brought with them. From Kiquotan 
they extended themselves as far as James-town, where, like true English- 
men, they built a cliurch that cost no more than fifty pounds, and a tavern 
that cost five hundred. 

They had now made peace with the Indians, but there was one thing want- 
ing to make that peace lasting. The natives could, by no means, persuade 
themselves that the English were heartily their friends, so long as they dis- 
dained to intermarry with them. And, in earnest, had the English consulted 
their own security and the good of the colony — had they intended either to 
civilize or convert these gentiles, they would have brought their stomachs to 
embrace this prudent alliance. 

The Indians are generally tall and well-proportioned, which may make full 
amends for the darkness of their complexions. Add to this, that tliey are 
healthy and strong, with constitutions untainted by lewdness, and not en- 
feebled by luxury. Besides, morals and all considered, I cannot think the 
Indians were much greater heathens than the first adventurers, who, had 
they been good Christians, would have had the charity to take this only 
method of converting the natives to Christianity. For, after all that can be 
said, a sprightly lover is the most prevailing missionary that can be sent 
amongst these, or any other infidels. 

Besides, the poor Indians would have had less reason to complain that the 
English took away their land, if they had received it by way of portion 
with their daughters. Had such affinities been contracted in the begin- 
ning, how much bloodshed had been prevented, and how populous would 
the country have been, and, consequently, how considerable 1 Nor would 
the shade of the skin have been any reproach at this day ; for if a Moor may 
be washed white in three generations, surely an Indian might have been 
blanched in two. 

The French, for their parts, have not been so squeamish in Canada, who 
upon trial find abundance of attraction in the Indians. Their late grand 
monarch thought it not below even the dignity of a Frenchman to become 
one flesh with this people, and therefore ordered 1 00 livres for any of his sub- 
jects, man or woman, that would intermarry with a native. 

By this piece of policy we find the French interest very much strengthened 
amongst the savages, and their religion, such as it is, propagated just as far 
as their love. And I heartily wish this well-concerted scheme does not here- 
after give the French an advantage over his majesty's good subjects on the 
northern continent of America. 

About the same time New England was pared oflf from Virginia by letters 
patent, bearing date April the 1 0th, 1 COS. Several gentlemen of the town 
and neighborhood of Plymouth obtained this grant, with the lord chief 
justice Popham at their head. 

Their bounds were specified to extend from 38 to 45 degrees of northern 
latitude, with a breadth of one hundred miles from the .sea shore. The first 
fourteen years, this company encountered many difficulties, and lost many 
men, though far from being discouraged, they sent over numerous recruits of 
Presbyterians, every year, who for all that, had much ado to stand their 
ground, with all their fighting and praying. 

But about the year 1620. a large swarm of dissenters fled thither from the 
severities of their stepmother, the church. These saints conceiving the same 
aversion to the copper complexion of the natives, with that of the first ad- 
venturers to Virginia, would, on no terms, contract alliances with them, afi-aid 
perhaps, like the Jews of old, lest they might bo drawn into idolatry by those 
strange women. 



4 THE HISTORY OF 

Whatever disgusted them I cannot say, but this false delicacy creating in 
the Indians a jealousy that the English were ill affected towards them, was 
the cause that many of them were cut off, and the rest exposed to various 
distresses. 

This reinforcement was landed not far from cape Cod, where, for their 
greater security, they built a fort, and near it a small town, which, in honour 
of the proprietors, was called New Plymouth. But they still had many dis- 
couragements to struggle with, though, by being well supported from home, 
they by degrees triumphed over them all. 

Their brethren, after this, flocked over so fast, that in a few years they ex- 
tended the settlement one hundred miles along the coast, including Rhode 
Island and Martha's Vineyard. 

Thus the colony throve apace, and was thronged with large detachments of 
independents and presbyterians, who thought themselves persecuted at home. 

Though these people may be ridiculed for some pharisaical particularities 
in their worship and behaviour, yet they were very useful subjects, as being 
frugal and industrious, giving no scandal or bad example, at least by any 
open and public vices. By which excellent qualities they had much the ad- 
vantage of the southern colony, who thought their being members of the 
established church sufficient to sanctify very loose and profligate morals. 
For this reason New England improved much faster than Virginia, and in 
seven or eight years New Plymouth, like Switzerland, seemed too narrow a 
territory for its inhabitants. 

For this reason, several gentlemen of fortune purchased of the company 
that canton of New England now called Massachusetts colony. And king 
James confirmed the purchase by his royal charter, dated March the 4th, 
1628. In less than two years after, above one thousand of the puritanical 
sect removed thither with considerable effects, and these were followed by 
such crowds, that a proclamation was issued in England, forbidding any 
more of his majesty's subjects to be shipped off. But this had the usual effect 
of things forbidden, and served only to make the wilful independents flock 
over the faster. And about this time it was that Messrs. Hampden and Pym, 
and (some say) Oliver Cromwell, to show how little they valued the king's 
authority, took a trip to New England. 

In the year 1630, the famous city of Boston was built, in a commodious 
situation for trade and navigation, the same being on a peninsula at the bot- 
tom of Massachusetts ba)''. 

This town is now the most considerable of any on the British continent, 
containing at least 8,000 houses and 40,000 inhabitants. The trade it drives, 
is very great to Europe, and to every part of the West Indies, having near 
1,000 ships and lesser vessels belonging to it. 

Although the extent of the Massachusetts colony reached near one hundred 
and ten miles in length, and half as much in breadth, yet many of its inhabit- 
ants, thinking they wanted elbow room, quitted their old seats in the year 
1636, and formed two new colonies: that of Connecticut and New Haven. 
These king Charles II. erected into one government in 1664, and gave them 
many valuable privileges, and among the rest, that of choosing their own 
governors. The extent of these united colonies may be about seventy miles 
long and fifty broad. 

Besides these several settlements, there sprang up still another, a little more 
northerly, called New Hampshire. But that consisting of no more than two 
counties, and not being in condition to support the charge of a distinct go- 
vernment, was glad to be incorporated with that of Massachusetts, but upon 
condition, however, of being named in all public acts, for fear of being quite 
lost and forgotten in the coalition. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. g 

In like manner New Plymouth joined itself to Massachusetts, except only 
Rhode Island, which, though of small extent, got itself erected into a sepa- 
rate government by a charter from king Charles 11., soon after the restoration, 
and continues so to this day. 

These governments all continued in possession of their respective rights 
and privileges till the year 1683, when that of Massachusetts was made void 
in England by a quo warranto. 

In consequence of which the king was pleased to name sir Edmund 
Andros his first governor of that colony. This gentleman, it seems, ruled 
them with a rod of iron till the revolution, when they laid unhallowed hands 
upon him, and sent him prisoner to England. 

This undutiful proceeding met with an easy forgiveness at that happy 
juncture. King William and his royal consort were not only pleased to over- 
look this indignity offered to their governor, but being made sensible how 
unfairly their charter had been taken away, most graciously granted them a 
new one. 

By this some new franchises were given them, as an equivalent for those 
of coining money and electing a governor, which were taken away. How- 
ever, the other colonies of Connecticut and Rhode Island had the luck to 
remain in possession of their original charters, which to this day have never 
been called in question. ^ 

The next country dismembered from Virginia was New Scotland, claimed 
by the crown of England in virtue of the first discovery by Sebastian Cabot. 
By colour of this title, king James I. granted it to sir William Alexander by 
patent, dated September the 10th, 1621. 

But this patentee never sending any colony thither, and the French believ- 
ing it very convenient for them, obtained a surrender of it from their good 
friend and ally, king Charles II., by the treaty of Breda. And, to show their 
gratitude, they stirred up the Indians soon after to annoy their neighbours of 
New England. Murders happened continually to his majesty's subjects by 
their means, till sir William Phipps took their town of Port Royal, in the year 
1690. But as the English are better at taking than keeping strong places, 
the French retook it soon, and remained masters of it till 1710, when general 
Nicholson wrested it, once more, out of their hands. 

Afterwards the queen of Great Britain's right to it was recognized and 
confirmed by the treaty of Utrecht. 

Another hmb lopped oflT from Virginia was New York, which the Dutch 
seized very unfairly, on pretence of having purchased it from captain Hudson, 
the first discoverer. Nor was their way of taking possession of it a whit 
more justifiable than their pretended title. Their West India company tam- 
pered with some worthy English skippers (who had contracted with a swarm 
of Enghsh dissenters to transport them to Hudson river) by no means to land 
them there, but to carry them some leagues more northerly. 

This Dutch finesse took exactly, and gave the company time soon after 
to seize Hudson river for themselves. But sir Samuel Argall, then governor 
of Virginia, understanding how the king's subjects had been abused by these 
republicans, marched thither with a good force, and obliged them to renounce 
all pretensions to that country. The worst of it was, the knight depended 
on their parole to ship themselves for Brazil, but took no measures to make 
this slippery people as good as their word. 

No sooner was the good governor retired, but the honest Dutch began to 
build forts and strengthen themselves in their ill-gotten possessions ; nor did 
any of the king's hege people take the trouble to drive these intruders thence. 
The civil war in England, and the confusions it brought forth, allowed no lei- 
sure for such distant considerations. Though it is strange that the protector, 

B 



g THE HISTORY OF 

who neglected no occasion to mortify the Dutch, did not afterwards call them 
to account for this breach of faith. However, after the restoration, the king 
sent a squadron of his ships of war, under the command of sir Robert Carr, 
and reduced that province to his obedience. 

Some time after, his majesty was pleased to grant that country to his royal 
highness, the duke of York, by letters patent, dated March the 12th, 1664. 
But to show the modesty of the Dutch to the life, though they had no shadow 
of right to New York, yet they demanded Surinam, a more valuable country, 
as an equivalent for it, and our able ministers at that time had the generosity 
to give it them. 

But what wounded Virginia deepest was the cutting off Maryland from it, 
by charter from king Charles I. to sir George Calvert, afterwards lord Balti- 
more, bearing date the 20th of June, 1632. The truth of it is, it begat much 
speculation in those days, how it came about that a good protestant king 
should bestow so bountiful a grant upon a zealous Roman catholic. But it is 
probable it was one fatal instance amongst many other of his majesty's com- 
plaisance to the queen. 

However that happened, it is certain this province afterwards proved a 
commodious retreat for persons of that communion. The memory of the 
gunpowder treason-plot was still fresh in every body's mind, and made Eng- 
land too hot for papists to live in, \yithout danger of being burnt with the 
pope, every 5th of November; for wl^Ch reason legions of them transplanted 
themselves to Maryland in order to be safe, as well from the insolence of the 
populace as the rigour of the government. 

Not only the gunpowder treason, but every other plot, both pretended and 
real, that has been trumped up in England ever since, has helped to people his 
lordship's propriety. But what has proved most serviceable to it was the grand 
rebellion against king Charles I., when every thing that bore the least tokens 
of popery was sure to be demolished, and every man that professed it was in 
jeopardy of suffering the same kind of martyrdom the Romish priests do in 
Sweden. 

Soon after the reduction of New York, the duke was pleased to grant out 
of it all that tract of land included between Hudson and Delaware rivers, to 
the lord Berkley and sir George Carteret, by deed dated June the 24th, 1664. 
And when these grantees came to make partition of this territory, his lord- 
ship's moiety was called West Jersey, and that to sir George, East Jersey. 

But before the date of this grant, the Swedes began to gain footing in part 
of that country ; though, after they saw the fate of New York, they were 
glad to submit to the king of England, on the easy terms of remaining in their 
possessions, and rendering a moderate quit-rent. Their posterity continue 
there to this day, and think their lot cast in a much fairer land than Dalicarlia. 

The proprietors of New Jersey, finding more trouble than profit in their 
new dominions, made over their right to several other persons, who obtained 
a fresh grant from his royal highness, dated March the 14th, 1682. 

Several of the grantees, being quakers and anabaptists, failed not to en- 
courage many of their own persuasion to remove to this peaceful region. 
Amongst them were a swarm of Scots quakers, who were not tolerated to 
exercise the gifts of the spirit in their own country. 

Besides the hopes of being safe from persecution in this retreat, the new 
proprietors inveigled many over by this tempting account of the country: 
that it was a place free from those three great scourges of mankind, priests, 
lawyers, and physicians. Nor did they tell them a word of a lie, for the peo- 
ple were yet too poor to maintain these learned gentlemen, who, every where, 
love to be well paid for what they do ; and, like the Jews, cannot breathe in a 
climate where nothing is to be gotten. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 7 

The Jerseys continued under the government of these proprietors till 
the year 1 702, when they made a formal surrender of the dominion to the 
queen, reserving however the property of the soil to themselves. So soon as 
the bounds of New Jersey came to be distinctly laid off, it appeared there was 
still a narrow slip of land, lying betv/ixt that colony and Maryland. Of this, 
William Penn, a man of much worldly wisdom, and some eminence among 
the quakers, got early notice, and, by the credit he had with the duke of York, 
obtained a patent for it, dated March the 4th, 1680. 

It was a little surprising to some people how a quaker should be so much 
in the good graces of a popish prince ; though, after all, it may be pretty 
well accounted for. This ingenious person had not been bred a quaker ; but, 
in his earlier days, had been a man of pleasure about the town. He had 
a beautiful form and very taking address, which made him successful with 
the ladies, and particularly with a mistress of the duke of Monmouth. By 
this gentlewoman he had a daughter, who had beauty enough to raise her to 
be a dutchess, and continued to be a toast full 30 years. But this amour had 
like to have brought our fine gentleman in danger of a duel, had he not dis- 
creetly sheltered himself under this peaceable persuasion. Besides, his father 
having been a flag-officer in the navy, while the duke of York was lord high 
admiral, might recommend the son to his favour. This piece of secret history 
I thought proper to mention, to wipe off the suspicion of his having been 
popishly inclined. 

This gentleman's first grant confined him v/ithin pretty narrow bounds, 
giving him only that portion of land which contains Buckingham, Philadel- 
phia and Chester counties. But to get these bounds a little extended, he 
pushed his interest still further with his royal highness, and obtained a fresh 
grant of the three lower counties, called Newcastle, Kent and Sussex, which 
still remained within the New York patent, and had been luckily left out of 
the grant of New Jersey. The six counties being thus incorporated, the pro- 
prietor dignified the whole with the name of Pennsylvania. 

The quakers flocked over to this country in shoals, being averse to go to 
heaven the same way with the bishops. Amongst them were not a few of 
good substance, who went vigorously upon every kind of improvement ; and 
thus much I may truly say in their praise, that by diligence and frugality, for 
which this harmless sect is remarkable, and by having no vices but such as 
are private, they have in a few years made Pennsylvania a very fine country. 
The truth is, they have observed exact justice v/ith all the natives that border 
upon them ; they have purchased all their lands from the Indians ; and though 
they paid but a trifle for them, it has procured them the credit of being more 
righteous than their neighbours. They have likewise had the prudence to 
treat them kindly upon all occasions, which has saved them from many wars 
and massacres wherein the other colonies have been indiscreetly involved. 
The truth of it is, a people whose principles forbid them to draw the carnal 
sword, were in the right to give no provocation. 

Both the French and Spaniards had, in the name of their respective mon- 
archs, long ago taken possession of that part of the northern continent that 
now goes by the name of Carolina ; but finding it produced neither gold nor 
silver, as they greedily expected, and meeting such returns from the Indians 
as their own cruelty and treachery deserved, they totally abandoned it. In 
this deserted condition that country lay for the space of ninety years, till king 
Charles II., finding it a derelict, granted it away to the earl of Clarendon and 
others, by his royal charter, dated March the 24th, 1663. The boundary of 
that grant towards Virginia was a due west line from Luck island, (the same 
as Colleton island,) lying in 36 degrees of north latitude, quite to the 
South sea. 



g THE HISTORY OF 

But afterwards sir William Berkley, who was one of the grantees and at 
that time governor of Virginia, finding a territory of 31 miles in breadth 
between the inhabited part of Virginia and the above-mentioned boundary of 
Carolina, advised the lord Clarendon of it. And his lordship had interest 
enough with the king to obtain a second patent to include it, dated June the 
30th, 1665. 

This last grant describes the bounds between Virginia and Carolina in 
these words : " To run from the north end of Coratuck inlet, due west to 
Weyanoke creek, lying within or about the degree of thirty-six and thirty 
minutes of northern latitude, and from thence west, in a direct line, as far as 
the South sea." Without question, this boundary was well known at the 
time the charter was granted, but in a long course of years Weyanoke creek 
lost its name, so that it became a controversy where it lay. Some ancient 
persons in Virginia affirmed it was the same with Wicocon, and others again 
in Carolina were as positive it was Nottoway river. 

In the mean time, the people on the frontiers entered for land, and took out 
patents by guess, either from the king or the lords proprietors. But the 
crown was like to be the loser by this uncertainty, because the terms both of 
taking up and seating land were easier much in Carolina. The yearly taxes 
to the public were likewise there less burthensome, which laid Virginia under 
a plain disadvantage. 

This consideration put that government upon entering into measures with 
North Carolina, to terminate the dispute, and settle a certain boundary be- 
tween the two colonies. All the difficulty was, to find out which was truly 
Weyanoke creek. The difference was too considerable to be given up by 
either side, there being a territory of fifteen miles betwixt the two streams in 
controversy. 

However, till that matter could be adjusted, it was agreed on both sides, 
that no lands at all should be granted within the disputed bounds. Virginia 
observed this agreement punctually, but I am sorry I cannot say the same of 
North Carolina. The great officers of that province were loath to lose the 
fees accruing from the grants of land, and so private interest got the better 
of public spirit; and I wish that were the only place in the world where such 
politics are fashionable. 

All the steps that were taken afterwards in that affair, will best appear by 
the report of the Virginia commissioners, recited in the order of council 
given at St. James', March the 1st, 1710, set down in the appendix. 

It must be owned, the report of those gentlemen was severe upon the then 
commissioners of North Carolina, and particularly upon Mr. Moseley. I will 
not take it upon me to say with how much justice they said so many hard 
things, though it had been fairer play to have given the parties accused a 
copy of such representation, that they might have answered what they could 
for themselves. 

But since that was not done, I must beg leave to say thus much in behalf 
of Mr. Moseley, that he was not much in the wrong to find fault with the 
quadrant produced by^the surveyors of Virginia, because that instrument 
placed the mouth of Nottoway river in the latitude of 37 degrees ; whereas, 
by an accurate observation made since, it appears to lie in 36° 30' 30", so 
that there was an error of near 30 minutes, either in the instrument or in 
those who made use of it. 

Besides, it is evident the mouth of Nottoway river agrees much better with 
the latitude, wherein the Carolina charter supposed Weyanoke creek, (namely, 
in or about 36° 30',) than it does with Wicocon creek, which is about fifteen 
miles more southerly. 

This being manifest, the intention of the king's grant will be pretty exactly 



THE DIVIDING LINP.. g 

answered, by a due west line drawn from f'oratuck inlet to the mouth of 
Nottoway river, for which reason it is probable that was formerly called 
Weyanoke creek, and might change its name when the Nottoway Indians 
came to live upon it, which was since the date of the last Carolina charter. 

The lieutenant governor of Virginia, at that time colonel Spotswood, 
searching into the bottom of this affair, made very equitable proposals to Mr. 
Eden, at that time governor of North Carolina, in order to put an end to this 
controversy. These, being formed into preliminaries, were signed by both 
governors, and transmitted to England, where they had the honour to be rati-* 
lied by his late majesty and assented to by the lords proprietors of Carolina. 

Accordingly an order was sent by the late king to Mr. Gooch, afterwards 
lieutenant governor of Virginia, to pursue those preliminaries exactly. In 
obedience thereunto, he was pleased to appoint three of the council of that 
colony to be commissioners on the part of Virginia, who, in conjunction with 
others to be named by the governor of North Carolina, were to settle the 
boundary between the two governments, upon the plan of the above-men- 
tioned articles. 

February, 1728. Two experienced surveyors were at the same time di- 
rected to wait upon the commissioners, Mr. Mayo, who made the accurate 
map of Barbadoes, and Mr. Irvin, the mathematic professor of William and 
Mary College. And because a good number of men were to go upon this 
expedition, a chaplain was appointed to attend them, and the rather because 
the people on the frontiers of North Carolina, who have no minister near 
them, might have an opportunity to get themselves and their children baptized. 

Of these proceedings on our part, immediate notice was sent to sir Richard 
Everard, governor of North Carolina, who was desired to name commission- 
ers for that province, to meet those of Virginia at Coratuck inlet the spring 
following. Accordingly he appointed four members of the council of thai; 
province to take care of the interests of the lords proprietors. Of these, Mr. 
Moseley was to serve in a double capacity, both as commissioner and sur- 
veyor. For that reason there was but one other surveyor from thence, Mr. 
$wan. All the persons being thus agreed upon, they settled the time of 
meeting to be at Coratuck, March the 5th, 1728. 

In the mean time, the requisite preparations were made for so long and 
tiresome a journey ; and because there was much work to be done and some 
danger from the Indians, in the uninhabited part of the country, it was neces- 
sary to provide a competent number of men. Accordingly, seventeen able 
hands were listed on the part of Virginia, who were most of them Indian 
traders and expert woodsmen. 

Feb. 27th. These good men were ordered to come armed with a musket 
and a tomahawk, or large hatchet, and provided with a sufficient quantity of 
ammunition. They likewise brought provisions of their own for ten days, 
after which time they were to be furnished by the government. Their march 
was appointed to be on the 27th of February, on which day one of the com- 
missioners met them at their rendezvous, and proceeded with them as far as 
colonel Allen's. This gentleman is a great economist, and skilled in all the 
arts of living well at an easy expense. 

28th. They proceeded in good order through Surry county, as far as the 
widow Allen's, who had copied Solomon's complete housewife exactly. At 
this gentlewoman's house, the other two commissioners had appointed to join 
them, but were detained by some accident at Williamsburg, longer than their 
appointment. 

29th. They pursued their march through the Isle of Wight, and observed 
a most dreadful havoc made by a late hurricane, which happened in August, 
1726. The violence of it had not reached above a quarter of a mile in 



10 THE HISTORY OF 

breadth, but witliin that compass had leveHed all before it. Both trees and 
houses were laid flat on the ground, and several things hurled to an incredi- 
ble distance. It is happy such violent gusts are confined to so narrow a 
channel, because they carry desolation wherever they go. In the evening 
they reached Mr. Godwin's, on the south branch of Nansemond river, where 
they were treated with abundance of primitive hospitality. 

March 1st. This gentleman was so kind as to shorten their journey, by set- 
ting them over the river. They coasted the north-east side of the Dismal for 
several miles together, and found all the grounds bordering upon it very full 
of sloughs. The trees that grew near it looked very reverend, with the long 
moss that hung dangling from their branches. Both cattle and horses eat 
this moss greedily in winter when other provender is scarce, though it is apt 
to scour tliem at first. In that moist soil too grew abundance of that kind of 
myrtle which bears the candle-berries. There was likewise, here and there, 
a gall bush, which is a beautiful evergreen, and may be cut into any shape. 
It derives its name from its berries turning water black, like the galls of an 
oak. When this shrub is transplanted into gardens, it will not thrive without 
frequent watering. 

The tvv'o other commissioners came up v\'ith them just at their journey's 
end, and that evening the}?- aii'ived all together at Mr. Craford's, who lives 
on the south branch of Elizabeth river, over against Norfolk. Here the com- 
missioners left the men with all the horses and heavy baggage, and crossed 
the river with their servants only, for fear of making a famine in the town. 

Norfolk has most the air of a town of any in Virginia. There were then 
nea ■ 20 brigantines and sloops riding at the wharves, and oftentimes they have 
more It has all the advantages of situation requisite for trade and navi- 
gation. There is a secure harbour for a good number of ships of any bur- 
then. Their river divides itself into three several branches, which are all 
navigable. The town is so near the sea, that its vessels may sail in and out 
in a few hours. Their trade is chiefly to the West Indies, whither they ex- 
port abundance of beef, pork, flour and lumber. The worst of it is, they 
contribute much towards debauching the country by importing abundance of 
rum, which, like gin in Great Britain, breaks the constitutions, vitiates the 
morals, and ruins the industry of most of the poor people of this country. 
This place is the mart for most of the commodities produced in the adjacent 
parts of North Carolina. They have a pretty deal of lumber from the bor- 
derers on the Dismal, who make bold with the king's land thereabouts, with- 
out the least ceremony. They not only maintain their stocks upon it, but 
get boards, shingles and other lumber out of it in great abundance. 

The town is built on a level spot of ground upon Elizabeth river, the banks 
whereof are neither so high as to make the landing of goods troublesome, or 
so low as to be in danger of overflowing. The streets are straight, and 
adorned with several good houses, which increase every day. It is not a 
town of ordinaries and public houses, like most others in this country, but 
the inhabitants consist of merchants, ship-carpenters and other useful artisans, 
with sailors enough to manage llieir navigation. With all these conveni- 
ences, it lies under the two great disadvantages that most of the towns in 
Holland do, by having neither good air nor good water. The two cardi- 
nal virtues that make a place thrive, industry and frugality, are seen here in 
perfection ; and so long as they can banish luxury and idleness, the town will 
remain in a happy and flourishing condition. 

The method of building wharves here is after the following manner. They 
lay down long pine logs, that reach from the shore to the edge of the channel. 
Tiiese are bound fast together by cross pieces notched into them, according 
to the architecture of the los-house.s In North ( 'arolina. A wharf built thus 



THK DIVlDiNG LINE. J| 

will stand several years, in spite of tiie worm, which bites here very much, 
but may be soon repaired in a place where so many pines grow in the neigh- 
bourhood. 

The commissioners endeavoured, in this town, to list three more men to 
serve as guides in that dirty part of the country, but found that these people 
knew just enough of that frightful place to avoid it. They had been told that 
those Netherlands were full of bogs, of marshes and swamps, not fit for 
human creatures to engage in, and this was reason enough for them not to 
hazard their persons. So they told us, flat and plain, that we might even dag- 
gle through the mire by ourselves for them. 

The worst of it was, we could not learn from any body in this town, what 
route to take to Coratuck inlet ; till at last v.'e had the fortune to meet with a 
borderer upon North Carolina, who made us a rough sketch of that part of 
the country. Thus, upon seeing how the land lay, we determined to march 
directly to Prescot landing upon North-west river, and proceed thence 
by water to the place where our line was to begin. 

4th. In pursuance of this resolution we crossed the river this morning tO' 
Powder point, where we all took horse; and the grandees of the town, with 
great courtesy, conducted us ten miles on our way, as far as the long bridge 
built over the south branch of the river. The parson of the parish, Mr. 
Marston, a painful apostle from the society, made one in this ceremonious 
cavalcade. 

At the bridge, these gentlemen, wishing us a good deliverance, returned, 
and then a troop of light horse escorted us as far as Prescot landing, upon 
North-west river. Care had been taken beforehand to provide two perifiu- 
gas to lie ready at that place to transport us to Coratuck inlet. Our zeal was 
so great to get thither at the time appointed, that we hardly allowed ourselves 
leisure to eat, which in truth we had the less stomach to, by reason the din- 
ner was served up by the landlord, whose nose stood on such ticklish terms, 
that it was in danger of falling into the dish. We therefore made our repast 
very short, and then embarked with only the surveyors and nine chosen men, 

leaving the rest at Mr. W n's to take care of the horses and baggage. 

There we also left our chaplain, with the charitable intent, that the gentiles 
round about might have time and opportunity, if they pleased, of getting 
themselves and their children baptized. 

We rowed down North-west river about 18 miles, as far as the mouth of 
it, where it empties itself into Albemai'le sound. It was really a delightful 
sight, all the way, to see the banks of the river adorned with myrtle, laurel 
and bay trees, which preserve their verdure the year round, though it must 
be owned that these beautiful plants, sacred to Venus and Apollo, grow com- 
monly in a very dirty soil. The river is, in most places, fifty or sixty yards 
wide, without spreading much wider at the mouth. It is remarkable it was- 
never known to ebb and flow till the year 1713, when a violent storm opened 
a new inlet, about five miles south of the old one ; since which convulsion, 
the old inlet is almost choked up by the shifting of the sand, and grows both 
narrower and shoaler every day. 

It was dark before we could reach the mouth of the river, where our way- 
ward stars directed us to a miserable cottage. The landlord was lately re- 
moved, bag and baggage, from Maryland, through a strong antipathy he had 
to work and paying his debts. For want of our tent, we were obliged to 
shelter ourselves in this wretched hovel, where we were almost devoured by 
vermin of various kinds. However, we were above complaining, being all 
philosophers enough to improve such slender distresses into mirth and good 
humour. 

5th. The day being now come, on which we had agreed to meet the com- 



12 THE HISTORY OF 

missioners of North Carolina, we embarked very early, which we could the 
easier do, having no temptation to stay where we were. We shaped our 
course along the south end of Knot's island, there being no passage open on 
the north. Further still to the southward of us, we discovered two smaller 
islands, that go by the names of Bell's and Church's isles. We also saw a 
small New England sloop riding in the sound, a little to the south of our 
course. She had come in at the new inlet, as all other vessels have done 
since the opening of it. This navigation is a little difficult, and fit only for 
vessels that draw no more than ten feet water. The trade hither is engrossed 
by the saints of New England, who carry oflFa great deal of tobacco, without 
troubling themselves with paying that impertinent duty of a penny a pound. 

It was just noon before we arrived at Coratuck inlet, which is now so shal- 
low that the breakers fly over it with a horrible sound, and at the same time 
afford a very wild prospect. On the north side of the inlet, the high land 
terminated in a bluff point, from which a spit of land extended itself towards 
the south-east, full half a mile. The inlet lies between that spit and another 
on the south of it, leaving an opening of not quite a mile, which at this day 
is not practicable for any vessel whatsoever. And as shallow as it now is, it 
continues to fill up more and more, both the wind and waves rolling in the 
sands from the eastern shoals. 

About two o'clock in the afternoon we were joined by two of the Carolina 
commissioners, attended by Mr. Swan, their surveyor. The other two were 
not quite so punctual, which was the more unlucky for us, because there 
could be no sport till they came. These gentlemen, it seems, had the Caro- 
lina commission in their keeping, notwithstanding which, they could not for- 
bear paying too much regard to a proverb — fashionable in their country — not 
to make more haste than good speed. 

However, that we who were punctual might not spend our precious time 
unprofitably, we took the several bearings of the coast. We also surveyed 
part of the adjacent high land, which had scarcely any trees growing upon it, 
but cedars. Among the shrubs, we were showed here and there a bush of 
Carolina tea called Japon, which is one species of the Phylarrea. This is an 
evergreen, the leaves whereof have some resemblance to tea, but differ very 
widely both in taste and flavour. We also found some few plants of the 
spired leaf silk grass, which is likewise an evergreen, bearing on a lofty stem 
a large cluster of flowers of a pale yellow. Of the leaves of this plant the 
people thereabouts twist very strong cordage. 

A virtuoso might divert himself here very well, in picking up shells of va- 
rious hue and figure, and amongst the rest, that species of conch shell which 
the Indian peak is made of The extremities of these shells are blue and the 
rest white, so that peak of both these colours are drilled out of one and the 
same shell, serving the natives both for ornament and money, and are es- 
teemed by them far beyond gold and silver. 

The cedars were of singular use to us in the absence of our tent, which 
we had left with the rest of the baggage for fear of overloading the periaugas. 
We made a circular hedge of the branches of this tree, wrought so close to- 
gether as to fence us against the cold winds. We then kindled a rousing fire 
in the centre of it, and lay round it, like so many knights templars. But, as 
comfortable as this lodging was, the surveyors turned out about two in the 
morning to try the variation by a meridian taken from the north star, and 
found it to be somewhat less than three degrees west. 

The commissioners of the neighbouring colony came better provided for 
the belly than the business. They brought not above two men along with 
them that would put their hands to any thing but the kettle and the frying- 
pan. These spent so much of their industry that way, that they had as little 
spirit as inclination for work. 



THE DIVIDING LLNE. 13 

Gth. At noon, having ;i iierfect observation, we (bund the latitude of Cora- 
tufk inlet to be 36 dejrreos and 31 minutes. 

Whilst we were busied about these necessary matters, our skipper rowed 
to an oyster bank just by, and loaded his periauga with oysters as savoury 
and well-tasted as those from Colchester or Walfleet, and had the advantage 
of them, too, by being much larger and (atter. 

About three in the afcernoon tiie two lag coiiUTiissloners arrived, and after a 
few decent exxuses for making us wait, told us they were ready to enter upon 
business as soon as we pleased. The first step was to produce our respec- 
tive powers, and the commission from each governor was distinctly read, and 
copies of them interchangeably delivered. 

It was observed by our Carolina friends, that the latter part of the Vir- 
ginia commission had something in it a little too lordly and positive. In an- 
swer to which we told them it was necessary to make it thus peremptory, 
lest the present commissioners might go upon as fruitless an errand as their 
l)redecessors. The former commissioners were tied down to act in exact con- 
junction with those of Carolina, and so could not advance one step farther, 
or one jot faster, than they were pleased to permit them. The memory of 
tliat disappointment, therefore, induced tiie government of Virginia to give 
fuller powers to the present commissioners, by authorizing them to go on 
with the work by themselves, in case those of Carolina should prove 
unreasonable, and refuse to join with them in carrying the business to exe- 
cution. And all this was done lest his majesty's gracious intention should 
be frustrated a second time.* 

After both commissions w-ere considered, the first question was, where 
the dividing line was to begin. This begat a w^arm debate ; the Virginia 
commissioners contending, with a great deal of reason, to begin at the end of 
the spit of sand, wdiich was undoubtedly the north shore of Coratuck inlet. 
But those of Carolina insisted strenuously, that the point of high land ought 
ratiier to be the place of beginning, because that was fixed and certain, 
whereas the spit of sand was ever shifting, and did actually run out farther 
now than formerly. The contest lasted some hours, v/ith great vehemence, 
neither party receding from their opinion that night. But next morning, Mr. 
JMoseley, to convince us he was not that obstinate person he had been repre- 
sented, yielded to our reasons, and found means to bring over his colleagues. 

Here we began already to reap the l)enefit of those peremptory words in 
our commission, which in truth added some weight to our reasons. Never- 
theless, because positive proof was made by the oaths of two credible wit- 
nesses, that the spit of sand had advanced 200 yards towards the inlet since 
the controversy first began, we were willing for peace' sake to make them 
that allowance. Accordingly we fixed our beginning about that distance 
north of the inlet, and there ordered a cedar post to be driven deep into the 
sand for our beginning. While we continued here, we were told that on the 
south shore, not far from the inlet, dwelt a marooner, that modestly called 
himself a hermit, though lie forfeited that name by sutTering a wanton female 
to cohabit with him. His habitation was a bower, covered with bark after 
the Indian fashion, which in that mild situation protected him pretty well from 
the weather. Like the ravens, he neither ploughed nor sowed, but subsisted 
chiefly upon oysters, which his handmaid made a shift to gather from the ad- 
jacent rocks. Sometimes, too, for change of diet, he sent her to drive up the 
neighbour's cows, to moisten their mouths with a little milk. But as for rai^ 
ment, he depended mostly upon his length of beard, and she upon her length 
of hair, part of which she brought decently forward, and the rest dangled 
behind quite down to her rump, like one of Herodotus' East Indian pigmies 

C 



J 4 THE HISTORY OF 

Thus did tliese wretches live in a dirty state of nature, and were mere Adam- 
ites, innocence only excepted. 

7th. This morning the surveyors began to run the dividing hne from the 
cedar post we had driven into the sand, allowing near three degrees for the 
variation. Without making this just allowance, we should not have obeyed 
his majesty's order in running a due west line. It seems the former com- 
missioners had not been so exact, which gave our friends of Carolina but too 
just an exception to their proceedings. The line cut Dosier's island, consist- 
ing only of a flat sand, with here and there an humble shrub growing upon 
it. From thence it crossed over a narrow arm of the sound into Knot's 
island, and there split a plantation belonging to William Harding. 

The day being far spent, we encamped in this man's pasture, though it lay 
very low, and the season now inclined people to aguish distempers. He suf- 
fered us to cut cedar branches for our enclosure, and other wood for firing, to 
correct the moist air and drive away the damps. Our landlady, in the days 
of her youth, it seems, had been a laundress in the Temple, and talked over 
her adventures in that station, with as much pleasure as an old soldier talks 
over his battles and distempers, and I believe with as many additions to the 
truth. The soil is good in many places of this island, and the extent of it 
pretty large. It lies in the form of a wedge: the south end of it is several 
miles over, but towards the north it sharpens into a point. It is a plentiful 
place for stock, by reason of the wide marshes adjacent to it, and because of 
its warm situation. But the inhabitants pay a little dear for this convenience, 
by losing as much blood in the summer season by the infinite number of 
mosquitoes, as all their beef and pork can recruit in the winter. 

The sheep are as large as in Lincolnshire, because they are never pinched 
by cold or hunger. The whole island was hitherto reckoned to lie in Vir- 
ginia, but now our line has given the greater part of it to Carolina. The 
principal freeholder here is Mr. White, who keeps open house for all travel- 
lers, that either debt or shipwreck happens to cast in his way. 

8th. By break of day we sent away our largest periauga, with the bag- 
gage, round the south end of Knot's island, with orders to the men to wait 
for us in the mouth of North river. Soon after, we embarked ourselves on 
board the smaller vessel, with intent, if possible, to find a passage round the 
north end of the island. 

We found this navigation very difficult, by reason of the continued shoals, 
and often stuck fast aground ; for though the sound spreads many miles, yet 
it is in most places extremely shallow, and requires a skilful pilot to steer 
even a canoe safe over it. It was almost as hard to keep our temper, as 
to keep the channel, in this provoking situation. But the most impatient 
amongst us stroked down their choler, and swallowed their curses, lest, if 
they suffered them to break out, they might sound like complaining, which 
was expressly forbidden, as the first step to sedition. 

At a distance we descried several islands to the northward of us, the 
largest of which goes by the name of Cedar island. Our periauga stuck so 
often that we had a fair chance to be benighted in this wide water, which 
must certainly have been our fate, had we not luckily spied a canoe that was 
giving a fortune-teller a cast from Princess Anne county over to North Caro- 
lina. But, as conjurers are sometimes mistaken, the man mistrusted we were 
officers of justice in pursuit of a young wench he had carried off along with 
him. We gave the canoe chase for more than an hour, and when we came 
up with her, threatened to make them all prisoners unless they would direct 
us into the right channel. Dy the pilotage of these people we rowed up an 
arm of the sound, called the Back bay, till we came to the head of it. There 



THE DIVIDING LINE. I5 

we were stopped by a miry pocoson full half a mi]e in breadth, through 
which we were obliged to daggle on foot, plunging now and then, though we 
picked our way, up to the knees in mud. At the end of this charming walk 
we gained the terra tirma of Princess Anne county. In that dirty condition 
we were afterwards obliged to foot it two miles, as far as John Heath's plan- 
tation, where we expected to meet the surveyors and the men who waited 
upon them. 

While we were performing this tedious voyage, they had carried the line 
through the firm land of Knot's island, where it was no more than half a 
mile wide. After that they traversed a large marsh, that was exceedingly 
miry, and extended to an arm of the Back bay. They crossed that water 
in a canoe, which we had ordered round for that purpose, and then waded 
over another marsh, that reached quite to the high land of Princess Anne. 
Both these marslies together make a breadth of five miles, in which the men 
frequently sank up to the middle, without muttering the least complaint. On 
the contrary, they turned all these disasters into merriment. 

It was discovered, by this day's work, that Knot's island was improperly 
so called, being in truth no more than a peninsula. The north-west side of 
it is only divided from the main by the great marsh above-mentioned, which 
is seldom totally overflowed. Instead of that, it might, by the labour of a 
few trenches, be drained into firm meadow, capable of grazing as many cattle 
as Job, in his best estate, was master of In the miry condition in which it 
now lies, it feeds great numbers in the winter, though, when the weather grows 
warm, they are driven thence by the mighty armies of mosquitoes, which are 
the plague of the lower part of Carolina, as much as the flies were formerly 
of Egypt, and some rabbins think those flies were no other than mosquitoes. 

All the people in the neighbourhood flocked to John Heath's, to behold such 
rarities as they fancied us to be. The men left their beloved chimney cor- 
ners, the good women their spinning wheels, and some, of more curiosity 
than ordinary, rose out of their sick beds, to come and stare at us. They 
looked upon us as a troop of knights errant, who were running this great 
risk of our lives, as they imagined, for the public weal ; and some of the 
gravest of them questioned much whether we were not all criminals, con- 
demned to this dirty work for offences against the state. What puzzled 
them most was, what could make our men so very light-hearted under such 
intolerable drudgery. " Ye have little reason to be merry, my masters," 
said one of them, with a very solemn face, " I fancy the pocoson you must 
struggle with to-morrow will make you change your note, and try. what 
metal you are made of Ye are, to be sure, the first of human race that 
ever had the boldness to attempt it, and I dare say will be the last. If, there- 
fore, you have any worldly goods to dispose of, my advice is that you make 
your wills this very night, for fear you die intestate to-morrow." But, alas! 
these frightful tales were so far from disheartening the men, that they served 
only to whet their resolution. 

9th. The surveyors entered early upon their business this morning, and 
I'an the line through Mr. Eyland's plantation, as far as the banks of North 
river. They passed over it in the periauga, and landed in Gibbs' marsh, 
which was a mile in breadth, and tolerably firm. They trudged through this 
marsh without much difficulty as far as the high land, which promised more 
fertility than any they had seen in these lower parts. But this firm land 
lasted not long before they came upon the dreadful pocoson they had been 
threatened with. Nor did they find it one jot better than it had been painted 
to them. The beavers and otters had rendered it quite impassable for any 
creature but themselves. 

Our poor fellows had much ado to drag their legs after them in this quag- 



] 6 THE HISTORY OF 

mire, but disdaining to be balked, they could hardly be persuaded from 
jjressing forward by the surveyors, who found it absolutely necessary to 
make a traverse in the deepest place, to prevent their sticking fast in the 
mire, and becoming a certain prey to the turkey buzzards. 

This horrible day's work ended two miles to the northward of Mr. Mer- 
chant's plantation, divided from North-west river by a narrow swamp, which 
is causewayed over. We took up our quarters in the open field, not far from 
the house, correcting, by a fire as large as a Roman funeral pile, the aguish 
exhalations arising fiom the sunken grounds that surrounded us. 

The neck of land included betwixt North river and North-west river, with 
the adjacent marsh, belonged formerly to Governor Gibbs, but since his decease 
to Colonel Bladen, in right of his first lady, who was Mr. Gibbs' daughter. 
It would be a valuable tract of land in any country but North Carolina, 
where, lor want ot navigation and commerce, the best estate affords little 
more than a coarse subsistence. 

10th. The sabbath happened very opportunely to give some ease to our 
jaded people, who rested religiously from every work, but that of cooking the 
kettle. We observed very few corn-fields in our walks, and those very small, 
which seemed the stranger to us, because we could see no other tokens of 
husbandry or improvement. But, upon further inquiry, we were given to 
understand people only made corn for themselves and not for their stocks, 
which know vejy well how to get their own living. Both cattle and hogs 
ramble into the neighbouring marshes and swamps, where they maintain 
themselves the whole winter long, and are not fetched home till the spring. 
Thus these indolent wretches, during one half of the year, lose the advantage 
of the milk of their cattle, as well as their dung, and many of the poor crea- 
tures perish in the mire, into the bargain, by this ill management. Some, 
who pique themselves more upon industry than their neighbours, will, now 
and then, in compliment to their cattle, cut down a tree whose limbs are 
loaded with the moss afore-mentioned. The trouble would be too great to 
climb the tree in order to gather this provender, but the shortest way (which 
in this country is always counted the best) is to fell it, just like the lazy In- 
dians, who do the same by such trees as bear fruit, and so make one harvest 
for all. By this bad husbandry milk is so scarce, in the winter season, that 
were a big-bellied woman to long for it, she would lose her longing. And, in 
truth, I believe this is often the case, and at the same time a very good reason 
why so many people in this province are marked with a custard complexion. 

The only business here is raising of hogs, which is managed with the least 
trouble, and affords the diet they are most fond of The truth of it is, the 
inhabitants of North Carolina devour so much swine's flesh, that it fills them 
full of gross humours. For want too of a constant supply of salt, they are 
commonly obliged to eat it fresh, and that begets the highest taint of scurvy. 
Thus, whenever a severe cold happens to constitutions thus vitiated, it is apt 
to Improve into the }''aws, called there very justly the country distemper. 
This has all the symptoms of s7/philis, with this aggravation, that no prepara- 
tion of mercury will touch it. First it seizes the throat, next the palate, and 
lastly shows its spite to the poor nose, of which it is apt in a small time 
treacherously to undermine the foundation. This calamity is so common and 
familiar here, that it ceases to be a scandal, and in the disputes that happen 
about beauty, the noses have in some companies much ado to carry it. Nay, 
it is said that once, after three good pork years, a motion had like to have 
beer, made in the house of burgesses, that a man with a nose should be inca- 
pable of holding any place of profit in the province; which extraordinary mo- 
tion could never have been intended without some hopes of a majority. 

Thus, considering the foul and pernicious effects of eating swine's flesh in 



THE DIVIDING LINE. J7 

a hot country, it was wisely forbidden and made an abomination to the Jews, 
who lived much in the same latitude with Carolina. 

1 1th. We ordered the surveyors early to their business, who were blessed 
with pretty dry grounds for three miles together. But they paid dear for it 
in the next two, consisting of one continued frightful pocoson, which no 
creatures but those of the amphibious kind ever had ventured into before. 
This filthy quagmire did in earnest put the men's courage to a trial, and 
though I cannot say it made them lose their patience, yet they lost their 
humour for joking. They kept their gravity like so many Spaniards, so that 
a man might then have taken his opportunity to plunge up to the chin, with- 
out danger of being laughed at. However, this unusual composure of coun- 
tenance could not fairly be called complaining. Their day's work ended at 
the mouth of Northern's creek, which empties itself into North-west river ; 
though we chose to quarter a little higher up the river, near Mossy point. 
This we did for the convenience of an old house to shelter our persons and 
baggage from the rain, which threatened us hard. We judged the thing right, 
for there fell a heavy shower in the night, that drove the most hardy of us 
into the house. Though, indeed, our case was not much mended by retreat- 
ing thither, because that tenement having not long before been used as a 
pork store, the moisture of the air dissolved the salt that lay scattered on the 
floor, and made it as wet within doors as without. However, the swamps 
and marshes we were lately accustomed to had made such beavers and 
otters of us that nobody caught the least cold. W^e had encamped so early, 
that we found time in the evening to walk near half a mile into the woods. 
There we came upon a family of mulattoes that called themselves free, though 
by the shyness of the master of the house, who took care to keep least in 
sight, their freedom seemed a little doubtful. It is certain many slaves shelter 
themselves in this obscure part of the world, nor will any of their righteous 
neighbours discover them. On the contrary, they find their account in set- 
tling such fugitives on some out-of-the-way corner of their land, to raise 
stocks for a mean and inconsiderable share, well knowing their condition 
makes it necessary for them to submit to any terms. Nor were these worthy 
borderers content to shelter runaway slaves, but debtors and criminals have 
often m,et with the like indulgence. But if the government of North Carolina 
has encouraged this unneighbourly policy in order to increase their people, 
it is no more than what ancient Rome did before them, which was made a 
city of refuge for all debtors and fugitives, and from that wretched beginning 
grew up in time to be mistress of a great part of the world. And, consider- 
ing how fortune delights in bringing great things out of small, who knows 
but Carolina may, one time or other, come to be the seat of some other great 
empire 1 

12th. Every thing had been so soaked with the rain, that we were obliged 
to lie by a good part of the moi'ning and dry them. However, that time was 
not lost, because it gave the surveyors an opportunity of platting off their 
work and taking the course of the river. It likewise helped to recruit the 
spirits of the men, who had been a little harassed with yesterday's march. 
Notwithstanding all this, we crossed the river before noon, and advanced our 
line three miles. It was not possible to make more of it, by reason good 
part of the way was either marsh or pocoson. The line cut two or three 
plantations, leaving part of them in Virginia, and part of them in Carolina. 
This was a case that happened frequently, to the great inconvenience of the 
owners, who were therefore obliged to take out two patents and pay for a 
new survey in each government. In the evening, we took up our quarters 
in Mr. Ballance's pasture, a little above the bridge built over North-west 
river. There we discharged the two periaugas, which in truth had been 



13 THE HISTORY OF 

very serviceable in transporting us over the many waters in that dirty and 
difficult part of our business. Our landlord had a tolerable good house and 
clean furniture, and yet we could not be tempted to lodge in it. We chose 
rather to lie in the open field, for fear of growing too tender. A clear sky, 
spangled with stars, was our canopy, which being the last thing we saw be- 
fore we fell asleep, gave us magnificent dreams. The truth of it is, we took 
so much pleasure in that natural kind of lodging, that I think at the foot of 
the account mankind are great losers by the luxury of feather beds and 
warm apartments. 

The curiosity of beholding so new and withal so sweet a method of en- 
camping, brought one of the senators of North Carolina to make us a mid- 
night visit. But he was so very clamorous in his commendations of it, that 
the sentinel, not seeing his quality, eitlier through his habit or behaviour, had 
like to have treated him roughly. After excusing the unseasonableness of 
his visit, and letting us know he was a parliament man, he swore he was so 
taken with our lodging, that he would set fire to his house as soon as he got 
home, and teach his wife and children to lie, like us, in the open field. 

13th. Early this morning our chaplain repaired to us with the men we had 
left at Mr. Wilson's. We had sent for them the evening before to relieve 
those who had the labour-oar from Coratuck inlet. But to our great surprise, 
they petitioned not to i)e relieved, hoping to gain immortal reputation by be- 
ing the first of mankind that ventured through the great Dismal. But the 
rest being equally an}bitious of the same honour, it was but fair to decide 
their pretensions by lot. After fortime had declared herself, those Mdiich she 
had excluded offered money to the happy persons to go in their stead. But 
Hercules would have as soon sold the glory of cleansing the Augean stables, 
which was pretty near the same sort of work. No sooner was the contro- 
versy at an end, but we sent those unfortunate fellows back to their quarters, 
whom chance had condemned to remain upon firm land and sleep in a whole 
skin. In the mean while the surveyors carried the line three miles, which 
was no contemptible day's work, considering how cruelly they were entan- 
gled with briers and gall bushes. The leaf of this last shrub bespeaks it to 
be of the alaternus family. 

Our work ended within a quarter of a mile of the Dismal above-mentioned, 
where the ground began to be already full of sunken holes and slashes, which 
had, here and there, some few reeds growing in them. It is hardly credible 
how little the bordering inhabitants were acquainted with this mighty swamp, 
notwithstanding they had lived their whole lives within smell of it. Yet, as 
great strangers as they were to it, they pretended to be very exact in their 
account of its dimensions, and were positive it could not be above seven or 
eight miles wide, but knew no more of the matter than star-gazers know of 
the distance of the fixed stars. At the same time, they were simple enough 
to amuse our men with idle stories of the lions, panthers and alligators, they 
were like to encounter in that dreadful place. In short, we saw plainly there 
was no intelligence of this terra incognita to be got, but from our own ex- 
perience. For that reason it was resolved to make the requisite dispositions 
to enter it next morning. We allotted every one of the surveyors for this 
painful enterprise, with twelve men to attend them. Fewer than that could 
not be employed in clearing the way, carrying the chain, marking the trees, 
and bearing the necessary bedding and provisions. Nor would the commis- 
sioners themselves have spared their persons on this occasion, but for fear of 
adding to the poor men's burthen, while they were certain they could add 
nothing to their resolution. 

We quartered with our friend and fellow traveller, William Wilkins, who 
had been our faithful pilot to Coratuck, and lived about a mile from the place 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 19 

wliere tlie line ended. Every thing looked so very clean, and the furniture 
so neat, that we were tempted to lodge within doors. But the novelty of 
being shut up so close quite spoiled our rest, nor did we breathe so free by 
abundance, as when we lay in the open air. 

14th. Before nine of the clock this morning, the provisions, bedding and 
other necessaries, were made up into packs for the men to carry on their 
shoulders into the Dismal. They were victualled for eight days at full allow- 
ance, nobody doubting but that would be abundantly sufficient to carry them 
through that inhospitable place ; nor indeed was it possible for the poor fel- 
lows to stagger under more. As it was, their loads weighed from 60 to 70 
pounds, in just proportion to the strength of those who were to bear them. 
It would have been unconscionable to have saddled them with burthens 
heavier than that, when they were to lug them through a filthy bog, which 
was hardly practicable with no burthen at all. Besides this luggage at their 
backs, they were obliged to measure the distance, mark the trees, and clear 
the way for the surveyors every step they went. It was really a pleasure to 
see with how much cheerfulness they undertook, and with how mucli spirit 
they went through all this drudgery. For their gi'eater safety, the commis- 
sioners took care to furnish them with Peruvian bark, rhubarb and liipocoa- 
canah, in case they might happen, in that wet journey, to be taken with fevers 
or fluxes. Although there was no need of example to inflame persons al- 
ready so cheerful, yet to enter the people with the better grace, the author 
and two more of the commissioners accompanied them half a mile into the 
Dismal. The skirts of it were thinly planted with dwarf reeds and gall 
bushes, but when we got into the Dismal itself, we found the reeds grew there 
much taller and closer, and, to mend the matter, were so interlaced with 
bamboo-briers, that there was no scufliing through them without the help of 
pioneers. At the same time, we found the ground moist and trembling under 
our feet like a quagmire, insomuch that it was an easy matter to run a ten- 
foot pole up to the head in it, without exerting any uncommon strength to do 
it. Two of the men, whose burthens were the least cumbersome, had orders 
to march before, with their tomahawks, and clear the way, in order to make 
an opening for the surveyors. By their assistance we made a shift to push 
the line half a mile in three hours, and then reached a small piece of firm 
land, about 1 00 yards wide, standing up above the rest like an island. Here 
the people were glad to lay down their loads and take a little refreshment, 
while the happy man, whose lot it was to carry the jug of rum, began alrea- 
dy, like ^sop's bread-carriers, to find it grow a good deal lighter. 

After reposing about an hour, the commissioners recommended vigour and 
constancy to their fellow-travellers, by whom they were answered with three 
cheerful huzzas, in token of obedience. This ceremony was no sooner over 
but they took up their burthens and attended the motion of the surveyors, 
who, though they worked with all their might, could reach but one mile far- 
ther, the same obstacles still attending them which they had met with in the 
morning. However small this distance may seem to such as are used to 
travel at their ease, yet our poor men, who were obliged to work with an 
unwieldy load at their backs, had reason to think it a long way ; especially 
in a bog where they had no firm footing, but every step made a deep impres- 
sion, which was instantly filled with water. At the same time they were 
labouring with their hands to cut down the reeds, which were ten feet high, 
their legs were hampered with the briers. Besides, the weather happened to 
be warm, and the tallness of the reeds kept off every friendly breeze from 
coming to refresh them. And, indeed, it was a little provoking to hear the 
wind whistling among the branches of the white cedars, which grew here 
and there amongst the reeds, and at the same time not to have the comfort to 
feel the least breath of it. 



20 THE HISTORY OF 

In the mean time the three cominissioners returned out of the Dismal the 
same way they went in, and, having joined their brethren, proceeded that 
night as far as Mr. Wilson's. This worthy person lives within siglit of the 
Dismal, in the skirts wiiereof his stocks range and maintain themselves all 
the winter, and yet he knew as little of it as he did of Terra Australis Incog- 
nita. He tokl us a Canterbury tale of a North Briton, whose curiosity spur- 
red him a long way into this great desert, as he called it, near twenty years 
ago, but he having no compass, nor seeing the sun for several days together, 
wandered about till he was almost famished ; but at last he bethought himself 
■of a secret his countrymen make use of to pilot themselves in a dark day. 
He took a fat louse out of his collar, and exposed it to the open day on a 
piece of white paper, which he brought along with him for his journal. The 
poor insect, having no eye-lids, turned himself about till he found the darkest 
ipart of the heavens, and so made the best of his way towards the north. 
By this direction he steered himself safe out, and gave such a frightful ac- 
count of the monsters he saw, and the distresses he underwent, that no mor- 
tal since has been hardy enough to go upon the like dangerous discovery. 

15th. The surveyors pursued their work with all diligence, but still found 
the soil of the Dismal so spongy that the water oozed up into every footstep 
they took. To their sorrow, too, they found the reeds and briers more lirmly 
interwoven than they did the day before. But the greatest grievance was 
from large cypresses, which the wind had blown down and heaped upon one 
■another. On the limbs of most of them grew sharp snags, pointing every 
way like so many pikes, that required much pains and caution to avoid. 
These trees being evergreens, and shooting their large tops very high, are 
easily overset by every gust of wind, because there is no firm earth to steady 
their roots. Thus many of them were laid prostrate, to the great encum- 
brance of the way. Such variety of difficulties made the business go on 
heavily. Insomuch that, from morning till night, the line could advance no far- 
ther than one mile and thirty-one poles. Never was rum, that cordial of life, 
found more necessary than it was in this dirty place. It did not only recruit 
the people's spirits, now almost jaded with fatigue, but served to correct the 
badness of the water, and at the same time to resist the malignity of the air. 
Whenever the men wanted to drink, which w-as very often, they had nothing 
more to do but to make a hole, and the water bubbled up in a moment. But 
it was far from being either clear or well tasted, -and had besides a physical 
eflTect, from the tincture it received from the roots of the shrubs and trees 
that grew in the neighbourhood. 

While the surveyors were thus painfully employed, the commissioners dis- 
charged the long score they had with Mr. Wilson, for the men and horses 
which had been quartered upon him during our expedition to Coratuck, 
From thence we marched in good order along the east side of the Dismal, 
and passed the long bridge that lies over the south branch of Elizabeth river. 
At the end of 18 miles we reached Timothy Ivy's plantation, where we pitch- 
ed our tent for the first time, and were furnished with every thing the place 
afforded. We perceived the happy effects of industry in this family, in which 
every one looked tidy and clean, and carried in their countenances the cheer- 
ful marks of plenty. We saw no drones there, which are but too common, 
alas, in that part of the world. Though, in truth, the distemper of laziness 
seizes the men oftener much than the women. These last spin, weave and 
knit, all with their own hands, while their husbands, depending on the bounty of 
the climate, are slothful in every thing but getting of children, and in 
that only instance make themselves useful members of an infant colony. 

There is but little wool in that province, though cotton grows very kindly^ 
and, so far south, is seldom nipped by the frost. The good women mix this 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



21 



with their wool for their outer garments ; thougli, for wajit of fulling, that 
kind of manufacture is ojicn and sleazy. Flax likewise thrives there ex- 
tremely, being perhaps as tine as any in the world, and I question not might, 
with a little care, be brought to rival that of Egypt; and yet the men ai:e 
here so intolerably lazy, they seldom take the trouble to propagate it. 

IGth. The line was this day carried one mile and a hah'' and sixteen poles. 
The soil continued soft and miry, but fuller of trees, especially white cedars. 
Many of these too were thrown down and piled in heaps, high enough for a 
good Muscovite fortification. The worst of it was, the poor fellows began 
now to be troubled with fiuxes, occasioned by bad water and moist lodging : 
but chewing of rhubarb kept that malady within bounds. 

In the mean time the corHmissioners decamped early in the morning, and 
made a march of twenty-five miles, as far as Mr. Andrew Mead's, who lives upon 
Nansemond river. They were no sooner got under the shelter of that hos- 
pitable roof, but it began to rain hard, and continued so to do great part of 
the night. This gave them much pain for their friends in the Dismal, whose 
sufferings spoiled their taste for the good cheer, wherewith they were enter- 
tained tiiemselves. However, late that evening, these poor men had the for- 
tune to come upon another terra lirma, which was the luckier for them, be- 
cause the lower ground, by the rain that fell, was made a fitter lodging for 
tadpoles than men. In our journey we remarked that the north side of this 
great swamp lies higher than eitlier the east or the west, nor were the ap- 
proaches to it so full of sunken grounds. We passed by no less than two 
quaker meeting houses, one of which had an awkward ornament on the west 
end of it, that seemed to ape a steeple. I must own I expected no such piece 
of foppery from a sect of so much outside simplicily. That persuasion pre- 
vails much in the lower end of Nansemond county, for want of ministers to 
pilot the people a decenter way to heaven. The ill reputation of tobacco 
planted in those lower parishes makes the clergy unwilling to accept of them, 
unless it be such whose abilities are as mean as their pay. Thus, whether 
the churches be quite void or but indiflerently filled, the quakers will have an 
opportunity of gaining proselytes. It is a wonder no popish missionaries are 
sent from Maryland to labour in this neglected vineyard, who we know have 
zeal enough to traverse sea and land on the meritorious errand of niaking 
converts. Nor is it less strange that some wolf in sheep's clothing arrives 
not from New England to lead astray a flock that has no sheph.erd. People 
iminstructed in any religion are ready to embrace the first that offers. It is 
natural for helpless man to adore his Maker in some form or other, and were 
there any exception to this rule, 1 should suspect it to be among the Hotten- 
tots of the cape of Good Hope and of North Carolina. 

There fell a great deal of rain in the night, accompanied with a strong 
wind. The fellow-feeling we had for the poor Dismalites, on account of this 
unkind weather, rendered the down we laid upon uneasy. We fancied them 
half-drowned in their wet lodging, with the trees blowing down about their 
ears. These were the gloomy images our fears suggested ; though it was 
so much uneasiness clear gain. They happened to come off much better, by 
being luckily encamped on the dry piece of ground afore-mentioned. 

17th. They were, however, forced to keep the sabbath in spite of their 
teeth, contrary to the dispensation our good chaplain had given them. In- 
deed, their short allowance of provision would have justified their making 
the best of their way, without distinction of days. It was certainly a work 
both of necessity and selfpreservation, to save themselves from starving. 
Nevertheless, the hard rain had made every tiling so thoroughly wet, that it 
was quite impossil)le to do any business. They therefore made a virtue of 
what they could not help, and contentedly rested in their dry situation. 

D 



22 THE HISTORY OF 

Since the surveyors had entered the Dismal, they had laid eyes on no living 
creature : neither bird nor beast, insect nor reptile came in view. Doubtless, 
the eternal shade that broods over this mighty bog, and hinders the sun- 
beams from blessing the ground, makes it an uncomfortable habitation for 
any thing that has life. Not so much as a Zealand frog co^lld endure so 
aguish a situation. It had one beauty, however, that delighted the eye, 
though at the expense of all the other senses : the moisture of the soil pre- 
serves a continual verdure, and makes every plant an evergreen, but at the 
same time the foul damps ascend without ceasing, corrupt the air, and ren- 
der it unfit for respiration. Not even a turkey buzzard will venture to fly 
over it, no more than the Italian vultures will over the filthy lake Avernus, or 
the birds in the Holy Land, over the Salt sea, #here Sodom and Gomorrah 
formerly stood. 

Bn these sad circumstances, the kindest thing we could do for our suffering 
friends was to give them a place in the Litany. Our chaplain, for his part, 
did his office, and rubbed us up with a seasonable sermon. This was quite 
a new thing to our brethren of North Carolina, who live in a climate where 
no clergyman can breathe, any more than spiders in Ireland. 

For want of men in holy orders, both the members of the council and 
justices of the peace are empowered by the laws of that country to marry 
all those who will not take one another's word ; but for the ceremony of 
christening their children, they trust that to chance. If a parson come in 
their way, they will crave a cast of his office, as they call it, else they are 
content their offspring should remain as arrant pagans as themselves. They 
account it among their greatest advantages that they are not priest-ridden, 
not remembering that the clergy is rarely guilty of bestriding such as have 
the misfortune to be poor. One thing may be said for the inhabitants of that 
province, that they are not troubled with any religious fumes, and have the 
least superstition of any people living. They do not know Sunday from any 
other day, any more than Robinson Crusoe did, which would give them a 
great advantage were they given to be industrious. But they keep so many 
sabbaths every week, that their disregard of the seventh day has no manner 
of cruelty in it, either to servants or cattle. It was with some difficulty we 
could make our people quit the good cheer they met with at this house, so it 
was late before we took our departure ; but to make us amends, our landlord 
was so good as to conduct us ten miles on our way, as far as the Cypress 
swamp, which drains itself into the Dismal. Eight miles beyond that we 
forded the waters of the Coropeak, which tend the same way as do many 
others on that side. In six miles more we reached the plantation of Mr. 
Thomas Spight, a grandee of North Carolina. We found the good man upon 
his crutches, being crippled with the gout in both his knees. Here we flat- 
tered ourselves we should by this time meet with good tidings of the survey- 
ors, but had reckoned, alas ! without our host : on the conti"ary, we were told 
the Dismal was at least thirty miles wide in that place. However, as nobody 
could say this on his own knowledge, we ordered guns to be fired and a drum 
to be beaten, but received no answer, unless it was from that prating nymph 
Echo, who, like a loquacious wife, will always have the last word, and some- 
times return three for one. It was indeed no wonder our signal was not 
heard at that time, by the people in the Dismal, because, in truth, they had 
not then penetrated one third of their way. They had that morning fallen 
to work with great vigour; and, finding the ground better than ordinary, 
drove on the line two miles and thirty-eight poles. This was reckoned an 
Herculean day's work, and yet they would not have stopped there, had not 
an impenetrable cedar thicket checked their industry. Our landlord had 
seated himself on the borders of this Dismal, for the advantage of the green 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 23 

food his cattle find there all winter, and for the rootinp: that supports his hogs. 
This, I own, is some convenience to his purse, for which his whole family pay 
dear in their persons, for they are devoured by mosquitoes all the summer, 
and have agues every spring and fall, which corrupt all the juices of their 
bodies, give them a cadaverous complexion, and besides a lazy, creeping habit, 
which they never get rid of 

We ordered several men to patrol on the edge of the Dismal, both towards 
the north and towards the south, and to fire guns at proper distances. This 
they performed very punctually, but could hear nothing in return, nor gain 
any sort of intelligence. In the mean time whole flocks of women and child- 
ren flew hither to stare at us, with as much curiosity as if we had lately 
landed from Bantam or Morocco. Some borderers, too, had a great mind 
to know where the line would come out, being for the most part apprehensive 
lest their lands should be taken into Virginia. In that case they must have 
submitted to some sort of order and government ; whereas, in North Carolina, 
every one does what seems best in his own eyes. There were some good 
women that brought their children to be baptized, but brought no capons 
along with them to make the solemnity cheerful. In the mean time it was 
strange that none came to be married in such a multitude, if it'had only been 
for the novelty of having their hands joined by one in holy orders. Yet so 
it was, that though our chaplain christened above a hundred, he did not 
marry so much as one couple during the whole expedition. But marriage is 
reckoned a lay contract in Carolina, as I said before, and a country ju.stice 
can tie the fatal knot there, as fast as an archbishop. None of our visiters 
could, however, tell us any news of the surveyors, nor indeed was it possible 
any of them should at that time, they being still laboring in the midst of the 
Dismal. It seems they were able to carry the link this day no further than 
one mile and sixty-one poles, and that whole distance was through a miry 
cedar bog, where the ground trembled under their feet most frightfully. In 
many places too their passage was retarded by a great number of fallen trees, 
that lay horsing upon one another. Though many circumstances concurred 
to make this an unwholesome situation, yet the poor men had no time to be 
sick, nor can one conceive a more calamitous case than it would have been 
to be laid up in that uncomfortable quagmire. Never were patients more 
tractable, or willing to take physic, than these honest fellows ; but it was from 
a dread of laying their bones in a bog that would soon spew them up again. 
That consideration also put them upon more caution about their lodging. 
They first covered the ground with square pieces of cypress bark, which 
now, in the spring, they could easily slip oflf the tree for tliat purpose. On 
this they spread their bedding ; but unhappily the weight and warmth of their 
bodies made the water rise up betwixt the joints of the bark, to their great 
inconvenience. Thus they lay not only moist, but also exceedingly cold, be- 
cause their fires were continually going out. For no sooner was the trash 
upon the surface burnt away, but iiumediately the fire was extinguished by 
the moisture of the soil, insomuch that it was great part of the sentinel's busi- 
ness to rekindle it again in a fresh place, every quarter of an hour. Nor 
could they indeed do their duty better, because cold Avas the only enemy they 
had to guard against in a miserable morass, where nothing can inhabit. 

20th. We could get no tidings yet of our brave adventurers, notwithstand- 
ing we despatched men to the likeliest stations to inquire after them. They 
were still scuffling in the mire, and could not possibly forward the line this 
whole day more than one mile and sixty-four chains. Every step of this day's 
work was through a cedar bog, where the trees were somewhat smaller and 
grew more into a thicket. It was now a great misfortune to the men to find 
their provisions grow less as their labour grew greater ; they were all forced 



24 'fHE HISTORY OF 

to come to short allowance, and consequently to work hard without filling 
their bellies. Tliough this was very severe upon English stomachs, yet the 
people were so far from being discomfited at it, that they still kept up their 
good humour, and merrily told a young fellow in the company, who looked 
very plump and wholesome, that he must expect to go first to pot, if matters 
should come to extremity. This was only said by way of jest, yet it made 
him thoughtful in earnest. However, for the present he returned them a very 
civil answer, letting them know that, dead or alive, he should be glad to be 
useful to such worthy good friends. But, after all, this humorous saying had 
one very good effect, for that younker, who before was a little inclined by his 
constitution to be lazy, grew on a sudden extremely industrious, that so there 
might be less occasion to carbonade him for the good of his fellow travellers. 
While our friends were thus embarrassed in the Dismal, the commissioners 
began to lie under great uneasiness for them. They knew very well their 
provisions must by this time begin to fall short, nor could they conceive any 
hkely means of a supply. At this time of the year both the cattle and hogs 
had forsaken the skirts of the Dismal, invited by the sprijiging grass on the 
firm land. All our liopes were that Providence would cause some wild game 
to fall in their way, or else direct them to a wholesome vegetable for theii- 
subsistence. In short they were haunted with so many frights on this occa- 
sion, that they Avere in truth more uneasy than the persons whose case they 
lamented. We had several visiters from Edenton, in the afternoon, that came 
with Mr. Gale, who had prudently left us at Coratuck, to scullle through that 
dirty country by ourselves. These gentlemen, having good noses, had smelled 
out, at thirty miles' distance, the precious liquor with which the Uberality of 
our good friend Mr. Mead had just before supplied us. That generous per- 
son had judged very right, that we were now got out of the latitude of drink 
proper for men in affliction, and therefore was so good as to send his cart 
loaded with all sorts of refreshments, for which the commissioners returned 
him their thanks, and the chaplain his blessing. 

21st. The surveyors and their attendants began now in good earnest to be 
alarmed with apprehensions of famine, nor could they forbear looking with 
some sort of appetite upon a dog which had been the faithful companion of 
their travels. Their provisions were now near exhausted. They had this 
morning made the last distribution, that so each might husband his small pit- 
tance as he pleased. Now it was that the fresh coloured young man began 
to tremble every joint of him, having dreamed, the night before, tiiat the In- 
dians were about to barbacue him over live coals. The prospect of famine 
determined the people, at last, with one consent, to abandon the line for the 
present, which advanced but slowly, and make the best of their way to firm 
land. Accordingly they set off very early, and, by the help of the compass 
which they carried along with them, steered a direct westwardly course. 
They marched from morning till night, and computed their journey to amount 
to about four miles, which was a great way, considering the difficulties of the 
ground. It was all along a cedar swamp, so dirty and perplexed, that if they 
had not travelled for their lives, they could not have reached so far. On their 
way they espied a turkey buzzard, that flew prodigiously high to get above 
the noisome exhalations that ascend from that filthy place. This they were 
willing to understand as a good omen, according to the superstition of the 
ancients, who had great faith in the flight of vultures. However, after all this 
tedious journey, they could yet discover no end of theii toil, which made 
them very pensive, especially after tliey had eaten the last morsel of their 
provisions. But to their unspeakable comfort, when aJl was hushed in the 
evening, they heard the cattle low, and the dogs bark, very distinctly, which, 
to men in that distress, was more delightful music than Faustina or Farinelli 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 25 

could have made. In the mean time the commissioners could get no news of 
them from any of their visiters, who assembled from every point of the compass. 
But the good landlord had visiters of another kind while we were there, that 
is to say, some industrious masters of ships, that lay in Nansemond river. 
These worthy commanders came to i)espeak tobacco from these parts to 
make up their loading.*;, in contempt of the Virginia law, which positively for- 
bade their taking in any made in North Carolina. Nor was this restraint at 
all unreasonable ; because tliey have no law in Carolina, either to mend the 
quality or lessen the quantity of tobacco, or so much as to prevent the turn- 
ing out of seconds, all which cases have been provided against by the laws 
of Virginia. Wherefore, there can be no reason why the inhabitants of that 
province should have the same advantage of shipping their tobacco in our 
parts, when they will by no means submit to the same restrictions that we do. 
22d. Our patrol happened not to go far enough to the northward this 
morning, if they had, tlie people in the Dismal might have heard the report of 
their guns. For this reason they returned without any tidings, which threw 
us into a great though unnecessary perplexity. This was now the ninth day 
since they entered into that inhospitable swamp, and con.sequently we had 
reason to believe their provisions were quite spent. We knew they worked 
hard, and therefore would eat heartily, .so long as they had wherewithal to 
recruit their spirits, not imagining the swamp so wide as they found it. Had 
we been able to guess where the line would come out, we would have sent 
men to meet them with a fresh supply ; but as we could know nothing of 
that, and as we had neither compa.s.s nor surveyor to guide a messenger on 
such an errand, we were unwilling to expose him to no purpose ; therefore, 
all we were able to do for them, in so great an extremity, was to recommend 
them to a merciful Providence. However long we might think the time, yet 
we were cautious of showing our uneasiness, for fear of mortifying our land- 
lord. He had done his best for us, and therefore we were unwilling he should 
think us dissatisfied with our entertainment. In the midst of our concern, we 
were most agreeably surprised, just after dinner, with the news that the Dis- 
malites were all safe. These blessed tidings were brought to us by Mr. Swan, 
the Carolina surveyor, who came to us in a very tattered condition. After 
very short salutations, we got about him as if he had been a Hottentot, and 
began to inquire into his adventures. He gave us a detail of their uncom- 
fortable voyage through the Dismal, and told us, particularly, they had pur- 
sued their journey early that morning, encouraged by the good omen of seeing 
the crows fly over their heads ; that, after an hour's march over very rotten 
ground, they, on a sudden, began to find themselves among tall pines, that 
grew in the water, which in many places was knee deep. This pine swamp, 
into which that of Coropeak drained itself, extended near a mile in breadth ; 
and though it was exceedingly wet, yet it was much harder at bottom than 
the rest of the swamp ; that about ten in the morning they recovered firm 
land, which they embraced with as much pleasure as shipwrecked wretches 
do the shore. After these honest adventurers had congratulated each other's 
deliverance, their first inquiry was for a good house, where they might satisfy 
the importunity of their stomachs. Their good genius directed them to Mr. 
Brinkley's, who dwells a little to the southward of the line. This man began 
immediately to be very inquisitive, but they declared they had no spirits to 
answer questions, till after dinner. •' But pray, gentlemen," said he, " answer 
me one question at least : what shall we get for your dinner ?" To which 
they replied, " No matter what, so it be but enough." He kindly supplied 
their wants as soon as possible, and by the strength of that refreshment they 
made a shift to come to us in the evening, to tell their own story. They all 



26 THE HISTORY OF 

Jooked very thin, and as ragged as the Gibeonite ambassadors did in the 
days olf yore. 

Owr surveyors told us (hey had measured ten miles in the Dismal, and 
computed the distance they had marched since to amount to about five more, 
so they made the whole breadth to be fifteen miles in all. 

23(3. It was very reasonable that the surveyors, and the men who had been 
sharers in their fatigue, should now hav^e a little rest. They were all, except 
'one, iiii good health and good heart, blessed be God! notwithstanding the 
■dreadful hardships they had gone through. It was really a pleasure to see 
the cheerfulness wherewith they received the order to prepare to re-enter the 
Disnjial on the Monday following, in order to continue the line from the place 
where they had left off measunng, that so we might have the exact breadth 
^oftbat dirty place. There were no more than two of them that could be 
rpersuaded to be relieved on this occasion, or suffer the other men to share the 
"Credit of that bold undertaking, neither would these have suffered it had not 
•one of them been very lame, and the other much indisposed. By the de- 
:scription the surveyors gave of the Dismal, we were convince! that nothing 
■but the exceeding dry season we had been blessed with could have made the 
passing of it practicable. It is the source of no less than five several rivers 
whicli discharge themselves southward into Albemarle sound, and of two that 
run northerly into Virginia. From thence it is easy to imagine that the soil 
must be thoroughly soaked with water, or else there must be plentiful stores 
of it under ground ; to supply so many rivers ; especially since there is no 
lake, or any considerable body of that element to be seen on the surface. 
The rivers that head in it from Virginia are the south branch of Nansemond, 
and the west branch of Elizabeth ; and those from Carolina are North-west 
river, North river, Pasquotank, Little river, and Pequimons. 

Tiiere is one remarkable part of the Dismal, lying to the south of the line, 
that has few or no trees growing on it, but contains a large tract of tall reeds. 
These being green all the year round, and wavering with every wind, have 
procured it tiie name of the Green sea. We are not yet acquainted with the 
precise extent of the Dismal, the whole having never been surveyed ; but it 
may be computed at a medium to be about thirty miles long and ten miles 
broad, though where the line crossed it, it was completely fifteen miles wide. 
But it seems to grow narrower towards the north, or at least does so in many 
places. The exhalations that continually rise from this vast body of mire and 
nastiness infect the air for many miles round, and render it very unwhole- 
some for the bordering inhabitants. It makes them liable to agues, pleurisies, 
and many other distempers, that kill abundance of people, and make the rest 
look no better than ghosts. It would require a great sum of money to drain 
it, but the public treasure could not be better bestowed, than to preserve the 
lives of his majesty's liege people, and at the same time render so great a 
tract of swamp very profitable, besides the advantage of making a channel 
to transport by water carriage goods from Albemarle sound into Nansemond 
and Elizabeth rivers, in Virginia. 

24th. This being Sunday, we had a numerous congregation, which flocked 
to our quarters from all the adjacent country. The news that our surveyors 
were come out of the Dismal, increased the number very much, because it 
would give them an opportunity of guessing, at least, whereabouts the line 
would cut, whereby they might form some judgment whether they belonged 
to Virginia or Carolina. Those who had taken up land within the disputed 
bounds were in great pain lest it should be found to lie in Virginia ; because 
this being done contrary to an express order of that government, the patentees 
had great reason to fear they should in that case have lost their land. But 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 27 

their apprehensions were now at an end, when they understood that all the 
territory which had been controverted was like to be left in Carolina. In the 
afternoon, those who were to re-enter the Dismal were furnished with the ne- 
cessary provisions, and ordered to repair the over-night to their landlord, Pe- 
ter Brinkley's, that they might be ready to begin their business early on 
Monday morning. Mr. Irvin was excused from the fatigue, in compliment to 
his lungs ; but Mr. Mayo and Mr. Swan were robust enough to return upon 
that painful service, and, to do them justice, they went with great alacrity. 
The truth was, they now knew the worst of it ; and could guess pretty near 
at the time when they might hope to return to land again. 

25th. The air was chilled this morning with a smart north-west wind, 
which favoured the Dismalites in their dirty march. They returned by the 
path they had made in coming out, and with great industry arrived in the 
evening at the spot where the line had been discontinued. After so long and 
laborious a journey, they were glad to repose themselves on their couches of 
cypress-bark, where their sleep was as sweet as it would have been on a bed 
of Finland down. In the mean time, we who stayed behind had nothing to 
do, but to make the best observations we could upon that part of the country. 
Tlie soil of our landlord's plantation, though none of the best, seemed more 
fertile than any thereabouts, where the ground is near as sandy as the deserts 
of Africa, and consequently barren. The road leading from thence to Eden- 
ton, being in distance about twenty-seven miles, lies upon a ridge called 
Sandy ridge, which is so wretchedly poor that it will not bring potatoes. The 
pines in this part of the country are of a different species from those that 
grow in Virginia: their bearded leaves are much longer and their cones much 
larger. Each cell contains a seed of the size and figure of a black-eye pea, 
which, shedding in November, is very good mast for hogs, and fattens them 
in a short time. The smallest of these pines are full' of cones, which are 
eight or nine inches long, and each affords commonly sixty or seventy seeds. 
This kind of mast has the advantage of all other, by being more constant, 
and less liable to be nipped by the frost, or eaten by the caterpillars. The 
trees also abound more with turpentine, and consequently yield more tar, 
than either the yellow or the white pine; and for the same reason make 
more durable timber for building. The inhabitants hereabouts pick up knots 
of lightwood in abundance, which they burn into tar, and then carry it to 
Norfolk or Nansemond for a market. The tar made in this method is the less 
valuable, because it is said to burn the cordage, though it is full as good for 
all other uses, as that made in Sweden and Muscovy. Surely there is no 
place in the world where the inhabitants live with less labour than in North 
Carolina. It approaches nearer to the description of Lubberland than any 
other, by the great felicity of the climate, the easiness of raising provisions, 
and the slothfulness of the people. Indian corn is of so great increase, that 
a little pains will subsist a very large family with bread, and then they may 
have meat without any pains at all, by the help of the low grounds, and the great 
variety of mast that grows on the high land. The men, for their parts, just 
like the Indians, impose all the work upon the poor women. They make their 
wives rise out of their beds early in the morning, at the same time that they 
lie and snore, till the sun has risen one third of his course, and dispersed all 
the unwholesome damps. Then, after stretching and yawning for half an 
hour, they light their pipes, and, under the protection of a cloud of smoke, 
venture out into the open air; though, if it happens to be never so little cold, 
they quickly return shivering into the chimney corner. When the weather is 
mild, they stand leaning with both their arms upon the corn-field fence, and 
gravely consider whether they had best go and take a small heat at the hoe : 
but generally find reasons to put it off till another time. Thus they loiter 



28 THE HISTORY OF 

away their lives, like Solomon's sluggard, with their arms across, and at tiie 
winding up of the year scarcely have bread to eat. To speak the truth, it is 
a thorough aversion to labor that makes people file oti" to North Carolina, 
where plenty and a warm sun confirm them in their disposition to laziness for 
their whole lives. 

26tli. Since we were like to be confined to this place, till the people re- 
turned out of the Dismal, it was agreed that our chaplain might safely take 
a turn to Edenton, to preach the Gospel to the infidels there, and christen 
their children. He was accompanied thither by Mr. Little, one of the Caro- 
lina commissioners, who, to show his regard for the church, offered to treat 
him on the road with a fricassee of rum. They fried half a dozen rashers of 
very fat bacon in a pint of rum, both which being dished up together, served 
the company at once both for meat and drink. Most of the rum they get in 
this country comes from New England, and is so bad and unwholesome, that 
it is not improperly called " kill-devil." It is distilled there from foreign 
molasses, which, if skilfully managed, yields near gallon for gallon. Their 
molasses comes from the same country, and has the name of " long sugar" 
in Carolina, I suppose from the ropiness of it, and serves all the purposes of 
sugar, both in their eating and drinking. When they entertain their friends 
bountifully, they fail not to set before them a capacious bowl of Bombo, so 
called from the admiral of that name. This is a compound of rum and wa- 
ter in equal parts, made palatable with the said long sugar. As good humour 
begins to flow, and the bowl to ebb, they take care to replenish it with sheer 
rum, of which there always is a reserve under the table. But such generous 
doings happen only when that balsam of life is plenty ; for they have often 
such melancholy times, that neither landgraves nor cassiques can procure one 
drop for their wives, when they lie in, or are troubled with the colic or 
vapours. Very few in this country have the industry to plant orchards, 
which, in a dearth of rum, might supply them with much better liquor. The 
truth is, there is one inconvenience that easily discourages lazy people from 
making this improvement: very often, in autumn, when the apples begin to 
ripen, they are visited with numerous flights of paroquets, that bite all the 
fruit to pieces in a moment, for the sake of the kernels. The havoc they 
make is sometimes so great, that whole orchards are laid waste in spite of all 
the noises that can be made, or mawkins that can be dressed up, to fright 
them away. These ravenous birds visit North Carolina only during the 
warm season, and so soon as the cold begins to come on, retire back towards 
the sun. They rarely venture so far north as Virginia, except in a very hot 
summer, when they visit the most southern parts of it. They are very beau- 
tiful ; but like some other pretty creatures, are apt to be loud and mischievous. 

27th. Betwixt this and Edenton there are many whortleberry slashes, 
which afford a convenient harbour for wolves and foxes. The first of these 
wild beasts is not so large and fierce as they are in other countries more 
northerly. He will not attack a man in the keenest of his hunger, but run 
away from him, as from an animal more mischievous than himself The 
foxes are much bolder, and will sometimes not only make a stand, but like- 
wise assault any one that would balk them of their prey. The inhabitants 
hereabouts take the trouble to dig abundance of wolf-pits, so deep and per- 
pendicular, that when a wolf is once tempted into them, he can no more 
scramble out again, than a husband who has taken the leap can scram- 
ble out of matrimony. Most of the houses in this part of the country are 
log-houses, covered with pine or cypress shingles, three feet long, and one 
broad. They are hung upon laths with pegs, and their doors too turn upon 
wooden hinges, and have wooden locks to secure them, so that the building 
is finished without nails or other iron work. They also set up their pales 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 29 

without any nails at all, and indeed more securely than those that are nailed. 
There are three rails mortised into the posts, the lowest of which serves as 
a sill with a groove in the middle, big enough to receive the end of the pales : 
the middle part of the pale rests against the inside of the next rail, and the 
top of it is brought forward to the outside of the uppermost. Such wreath- 
ing of the pales in and out makes them stand firm, and much harder to unfix 
than when nailed in the ordinary way. , 

Within three or four miles of Edenton, the soil appears to be a little more \^ 
fertile, though it is much cut with slashes, which seem all to have a tendency \ 
towards the Dismal. This town is situated on the north side of Albemarle 
sound, which is there about five miles over. A dirty slash runs all along the 
back of it, which in the summer is a foul annoyance, and furnishes abundance 
of that Carolina plague, mosquitoes. There may be forty or fifty houses, 
most of them small, and built without expense. A citizen here is counted 
extravagant, if he has ambition enough to aspire to a brick chimney. Justice 
herself is but indifferently lodged, the court-house having much the air of a 
common tobacco-house. I believe this is the only metropolis in the Christian 
or Mahometan world, where there is neither church, chapel, mosque, syna- 
gogue, or any other place of public worship of any sect or religion whatso- 
ever. What little devotion there may happen to be is much more private 
than their vices. The people seem easy without a minister, as long as they 
are exempted from paying him. Sometimes the Society for propagating the 
Gospel has had the charity to send over missionaries to this country ; but 
unfortunately the priest has been too lewd for the people, or, which oftener 
happens, they too lewd for the priest. For these reasons these reverend 
gentlemen have always left their flocks as arrant heathen as they found 
them. Thus much however may be said for the inhabitants of Edenton, that 
not a soul has the least taint of hyprocrisy, or superstition, acting very frank- 
ly and above-board in all their excesses. 

Provisions here are extremely cheap, and extremely good, so that people 
may live plentifully at a trifling expense. Nothing is dear but law, physic, 
and strong drink, which are all bad in their kind, and the last they get with 
so much difficulty, that they are never guilty of the sin of sufl"ering it to sour 
upon their hands. Their vanity generally lies not so much in having a hand- 
some dining-room, as a handsome house of office : in this kind of structure 
they are really extravagant. They are rarely guilty of flattering or making 
any court to their governors, but treat them with all the excesses of freedom 
and familiarity. They are of opinion their rulers would be apt to grow inso- 
lent, if they grew rich, and for that reason take care to keep them poorer, 
and more dependent, if possible, than the saints in New England used to 
do their governors. They have very little corn, so they are forced to carry 
on their home traffic with paper money. This is the only cash that will tarry 
in the country, and for that reason the discount goes on increasing between 
that and real money, and will do so to the end of the chapter. 

28th. Our time passed heavily in our quarters, where we were quite cloyed 
with the Carolina felicity of having nothing to do. It was really more insup- 
portable than the greatest fatigue, and made us even envy the drudgery of 
our friends in the Dismal. Besides, though the men we had with us were 
kept in exact discipline, and behaved wfthout reproach, yet our landlord 
began to be tired of them, fearing they would breed a famine in his family. 
Indeed, so many keen stomachs made great havoc amongst the beef and 
bacon which he had laid in for his summer provision, nor could he easily 
purchase more, at that time of the year, with the money we paid him, be- 
cause people having no certain market seldom provide any more of thes* 
commodities than will barely supply tiieir own occasions. Besides th« 

E 



30 THE HISTORY OF 

weather was now grown too warm to lay in a fresh stock so late in the spring. 
These considerations abated somewhat of that cheerfulness with which he bade 
us welcome in the beginning, and made him think the time quite as long as we 
did until the surveyors returned. While we were thus all hands uneasy, we 
were comforted with the news that this afternoon the line was finished 
through the Dismal. The messenger told us it had been the hard work of 
three days to measure the length of only five miles, and mark the trees as 
they passed along, and by the most exact survey they found the breadth of the 
Dismal in this place to be completely fifteen miles. How wide it may be in 
other paits, we can give no account, but believe it grows narrower towards 
the north ; possibly tow^ards Albemarle sound it may be something broader, 
where so many rivers issue out of it. All we know for certain is, that from 
the place where the line entered the Dismal, to where it came out, we found 
fhe road round that portion of it which belonged to Virginia to be about 
sixty-five miles. How great the distance may be from each of those points, 
round that part that falls within the bounds of Carolina, we had no certain 
information : though it is conjectured it cannot be so little as thirty miles. 
At which rate the whole circuit must be about a hundred. What a mass of 
mud and dirt is ti^easured up within this filthy circumference, and what a 
quantity of water must perpetually drain into it from the rising ground that 
surrounds it on every side ? Without taking the exact level of the Dismal, 
we may be sure that it declines towards the places where the several rivers 
take their rise, in order to carrying off the constant supplies of water. Were 
it not for such discharges, the whole swamp would long since have been 
converted into a lake. On the other side this declension must be very gentle, 
else it would be laid perfectly dry by so many continual drains ; whereas, on the 
contrary, the ground seems every where to be thoroughly drenched even in 
the driest season of the year. The surveyors concluded this day's work 
with running twenty-five chains up into the firm land, where they waited 
further orders from the commissioners. 

29th. This day the surveyors proceeded with the line no more than one 
mile and fifteen chains, being interrupted by a mill swamp, through which 
they made no difficulty of wading, in order to make their work more exact. 
Thus, like Norway mice, these worthy gentlemen went right forward, with- 
out suffering themselves to be turned out of the way by any obstacle whatever. 
We are told by some travellers, that those mice march in mighty armies, 
destroying all the fruits of the earth as they go along. But something 
peculiar to those obstinate little animals is, that nothing stops them in their 
career, and if a house happen to stand in their way, disdaining to go an inch 
about, they crawl up one side of it, and down the other : or if they meet 
with any river, or other body of water, they are so determined, that they 
swim directly over it, without varying one point from their course for the 
sake of any safety or convenience. The surveyors were also hindered 
some time by setting up posts in the great road, to show the bounds between 
the two colonies.. 

Our chaplain returned to us in the evening from Edenton, in company 
with the Carolina commissioners. He had preached there in the court-house, 
for want of a consecrated place, and made no less than nineteen of father 
Hennepia's Christians. 

By the permission of the Carolina commissioners, Mr. Swan was allowed 
to go home; as soon as the survey of the Dismal was finished ; he met with 
this indulgence for a reason that might very well have excused his coming 
at all ; namely, that he was lately married. What remained of the drudgery 
for this season was left to Mr. Mosely, who had hitherto acted only in the 
capacity of a commissioner. They offered to employ Mr. Joseph Mayo as 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



31 



their surveyor in Mr. Swan's stead, but he thought it not proper to accept of 
it, because he had liitherto acted as a volunteer in behalf of Virginia, and 
did not care to change sides, though it might have been to his advantage. 

30th. The line was advanced this day six miles and thirty-five chains, the 
woods being pretty clear, and interrupted with no swamp, or other wet ground. 
The land hereabout had all the marks of poverty, being for the most part sandy 
and full of pines. This kind of ground, though unfit for ordinary tillage, will 
however bring cotton and pototoes in plenty, and consequently food and 
raiment to such as are easily contented, and, like the wild Irish, find more 
pleasure in laziness than luxury. It also makes a shift to produce Indian corn, 
rather by the felicity of the climate than by the fertility of the soil. They 
who are more industrious than their neighbours may make what quantity of 
tar they please, though indeed they are not always sure of a market for it. 
The method of burning tar in Sweden and Muscovy succeeds not well in 
this warmer part of the world. It seems they kill the pine trees, by barking 
them quite round at a certain height, which in those cold countries brings 
down the turpentine into the stump in a year's time. But experience has 
taught us that in warm climates the turpentine will not so easily descend, 
but is either fixed in the upper parts of the tree, or fried out by the intense 
heat of the sun. 

Care was taken to erect a post in every road that- our line ran through, 
with Virginia carved on the north side of it, and Carolina on the south, that 
the bounds might every where appear. In the evening the surveyors took 
up their quarters at the house of one Mr. Parker, who, by the advantage of a 
better spot of land than ordinary, and a more industrious wife. Lives com- 
fortably, and has a very neat plantation. 

31st. It rained a little this morning, but this, happening again upon a 
Sunday, did not interrupt our business. However the surveyors made no 
scruple of protracting and plotting off their work upon that good day, be- 
cause it was rather an amusement than a drudgery. Here the men feasted 
on the fat of the land, and believing the dirtiest part of their work was over, 
had a more than ordinary gaiety of heart. We christened two of our landlord's 
children, which might have remained infidels all their lives, had not we car- 
ried Christianity home to his own door. The truth of it is, our neighbours of 
North Carolina are not so zealous as to go much out of their way to procure 
this benefit for their children : otherwise, being so near Virginia, they might, 
Avithout exceeding much trouble, make a journey to the next clergyman, 
upon so good an errand. And indeed should the neighbouring ministers, 
once in two or three years, vouchsafe to take a turn among these gentiles, 
to baptize them and their children, it would look a little apostolical, and they 
might hope to be requited for at hereafter, if that be not thought too long to 
tarry for their reward. 

April 1st. The surveyors getting now upon better ground, quite disengaged 
from underwoods, pushed on the line almost twelve miles. They left Som- 
merton chapel near two miles to the northwards, so that there was now no 
place of public worship left in the whole province of North Carolina. 

The high land of North Carolina was barren, and covered with a deep 
sand ; and the low grouiids were wet and boggy, insomuch that several of 
our horses wei'e mired, and gave us frequent opportunities to show our 
horsemanship. 

The line cut William Spight's plantation in two, leaving little more than 
his dwelling house and orcliard in Virginia. Sundry other plantations were 
split in the same unlucky manner, which made the owners accountable to 
both governments. Wherever we passed we constantly found the borderers 
laid it to heart if their land was taken into Virginia : they chose much rather 



3a 



THE HISTORY OF 



to belong to Carolina, whsre they pay no tribute, either to God or to Caesar. 
Another reason was, that the government there is so loose, and the laws are 
so feebly executed, that, like those in the neighbourhood of Sidon formerly, 
every one. does just what seems good in his owa eyes. If the governor's 
hands have been weak in that province, under the authority of the lords pro- 
prietors, much weaker then were the hands of the magistrate, who, though 
he might have had virtue enough to endeavour to punish ofienders, which 
very rarely happened, yet that virtue had been quite impotent, for want of 
ability to put it in execution. Besides, there might have been some danger, 
perhaps, in venturing to be so rigorous, for fear of undergoing the fate of an 
honest justice in Coratuck precinct. This bold magistrate, it seems, taking 
upon him to order a fellow to the stocks, for being disorderly hi his drink, 
was, for his intemperate zeal, carried thither himself, and narrowly escaped 
being whipped by the rabble into the bargain. 

This easy day's work carried the line to the banks of Somerton creek, 
that runs out of Chowan river, a little below the mouth of Nottoway. 

2d. In less than a mile from Somerton creek the line was carried to Black- 
water, which is the name of the upper part of Chowan, running some miles 
above the mouth of Nottoway. It must be observed that Chowan, after 
taking a compass round the most beautiful part of North Carolina, empties itself 
into Albemarle sound,*.a few miles above Edenton. The tide flows seven or 
eight miles higher than where the river changes its name, and is navigable 
thus high for any small vessel. Our line intersected it exactly half a mile to 
the TKirthward of Nottoway. However, in obedience to his majesty's com- 
mand, we directed the surveyors to come down the river as far as the mouth 
of Nottowa3% in order to continue our true west line from thence. Thus we 
found the mouth of Nottoway to lie no more than half a minute farther to the 
northward than Mr. Lawson had formerly done. That gentleman's observa- 
tion, it seems, placed it in 36° 30', and our working made it out to be 36° 
30|' — a very inconsiderable variance. 

The surveyors crossed the river over against the middle of the mouth of 
Nottoway, where it was about eighty yards wide. From thence they ran the 
line about half a mile through a dirty pocoson, as far as an Indian field. 
Here we took up our lodging in a moist situation, having the pocoson above 
mentioned on one side of us, and a swamp on the other. 

In this camp three of the Meherrin Indians made us a visit. They told us 
that the small remains of their nation had deserted their ancient town, situated 
near the mouth of the Meherrin river, for fear of the Catawbas, who had killed 
fourteen of their people the year before ; and the few that survived that cala- 
mity, had taken refuge amongst the English, on the east side of Chowan. 
Though, if the complaint of these Indians were true, they are hardly used by 
our Carolina friends. But they are the less to be pitied, because they have 
ever been reputed the most false and treacherous to the English of all the 
Indians in the neighbourhood. 

Not far from the place where we lay, I observed a large oak which had 
been blown up by the roots, the body of which was shivered into perfect 
strings, and was, in truth, the most violent effects of lightning I ever saw. 

But the most curious instance of that dreadful meteor happened at York, 
where a man was kDled near a pine tree in which the lightning made a hole 
before it struck the man, and left an exact figure of the tree upon his breast, 
with all its branches, to the wonder of all that beheld it, in which I shaD be 
more particular hereafter. 

We made another trial of the variation in this place, and found it some 
minutes less than we had done at Coratuck inlet; but so small a difference 
might easily happen through some defect in one or other of the observations, 
and, therefor©, we altered not our compass f©r the matter. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 33 

3d. By the advantage of clear woods, the Ihie was extended twelve miles 
and three quarters, as Hir as the banks of Meherrin. Thougli the mouth of 
this river lies fifteen miles below the mouth of Nottoway, yet it winds so much 
to the northward, that we came upon it, after running this small distance. 

During the first seven miles, we observed the soil to be poor and sandy ; 
but as we approached Meherrin it grew better, though there it was cut to 
pieces by sundry mhy branches, which discharge tliemselves into that river. 
Several of our horses plunged up to the saddle skirts, and were not dis- 
engaged without difficulty. 

The latter part of our day's work was pretty laborious, because of the 
unevenness of the way, and because the low ground of the river was full of 
cypress snags, as sharp and dangerous to our horses as so many chevaux-de- 
frise. We found the whole distance from the mouth of Nottoway to Meherrin 
river, where our line intersected it, thirteen miles and a quarter. 

It was hardly possible to find a level large enough on the banks of the 
river whereupon to pitch our tent. But though the situation was, on that 
account, not very convenient for us, yet it was for our poor horses, by 
reason of the plenty of small reeds on which they fed voraciously. These 
reeds are green here all the year round, and will keep cattle in tolerable 
good plight during the winter. But whenever the hogs come where they 
are, they destroy them in a short time, by ploughing up their roots, of which, 
unluckily, they are very fond. 

The river was in this place about as wide as the river Jordan, that is, 
forty yards, and would be navigable very high for flat bottom boats and 
canoes, if it were not choked up with large trees, brought down by every 
fresh. Though the banks were full twenty feet high from the surface of the 
water, yet we saw certain marks of their having been overflowed. 

These narrow rivers that run high up into the country are subject to fre- 
quent inundations, when the waters are rolled down with such violence as to 
carry all before them. The logs that are then floated, are very fatal to the 
bridges built over these rivers, which can hardly be contrived strong enough to 
stand against so much weight and violence joined together. 

The Isle of Wight county begins about three miles to the east of Meherrin 
river, being divided from that of Nansemond only by a line of marked trees. 

4th. The river was here hardly fordable, though the season had been very 
dry. The banks too were so steep that our horses were forced to climb like 
mules to get up them. Nevertheless we had the luck to recover the opposite 
shore without damage. 

We halted for half an hour at Charles Anderson's, who lives on the western 
bank of the river, in order to christen one of his children. In the mean time, 
the surv^eyors extended the line two miles and thirty-nine chains, in which 
small distance Meherrin river was so serpentine, that they crossed it three 
times. Then we went on to Mr. Kinchin's, a man of figure and authority in 
North Carolina, who lives about a mile to the southward of the place where 
the surveyors left off. By the benefit of a little pains, and good management, 
this worthy magistrate lives in much affluence. Amongst other instances of 
his industry, he had planted a good orchard, which is not common in that 
indolent climate; nor is it at all strange, that such improvident people, who 
take no thought for the morrow, should save themselves the trouble to make 
improvements that will not pay them for several years to come. Though, if 
they could trust futurity for any thing, they certainly would for cider, which 
they are so fond of, that they genej-ally drink it before it has done working, 
lest the fermentation might unluckily turn it sour. 

It is an observation, Avhich rarely fails of being true, both in Virginia and 
Carolina, that those who take care to plant good orchards are, in their ge- 



34 



THE HISTORY OF 



neral characters, industrious people. Tliis held good in our landlord, who 
had many houses built on his plantation, and every one kept in decent repair. 
His wife, too, was tidy, his furniture clean, his pewter bright, and nothing 
seemed to be wanting to make his home comfortable. 

Mr. Kinchin madeus the compliment of his house, but because we were 
willing to be as little troublesome as possible, we ordered the tent to be 
pitched in his orchard, where the blossoms of the apple trees contributed not 
a little to the sweetness of our lodging. 

5th. Because the spring was now pretty forward, and the rattlesnakes began 
to crawl oat of their winter quarters, and might grow dangerous, both to the 
men and their horses, it was determined to proceed no farther with the line 
till the fall. Besides, the uncommon fatigue the people had undergone for 
near six weeks together, and the inclination they all had to visit their respective 
families, made a recess highly reasonable. 

The surveyors were employed great part of the day, in forming a correct 
and elegant map of the line, from Coratuck inlet to tlie place where they left 
off. On casting up the account in the most accurate manner, they found the 
whole distance" we had run to amount to seventy three miles and thirteen 
chains. Of the map they made two fair copies, which agreeing exactly, were 
subscribed by the commissioners of both colonies, and one of them was deli- 
vered to those on the part of Virginia, and the other to those on the part of 
North Carolina. 

6th. Thus we finished our spring campaign, and having taken leave of our 
Carolina friends, and agreed to meet them again the tenth of September 
following, at the same Mr. Kinchin's, in order to continue the line, we crossed 
Meherrin river near a quarter of a mile from the house. About ten miles 
from that we halted at Mr. Kindred's plantation, where we christened two 
children. 

It happened that some of Isle of Wight militia were exercising in the 
adjoining pasture, and there were females enough attending that martial 
appearance to form a more invincible corps. Ten miles farther we passed 
Nottoway river at Bolton's ferry, and took up our lodgings about three miles 
from thence, at the house of Richard Parker, an honest planter, whose labours 
were rewarded with plenty, which, in this country, is the constant portion of 
the industrious. 

7th. The next day being Sunday, we ordered notice to be sent to all the 
neiffhbourhood that there would be a sermon at this place, and an opportunity 
of christening their children. But the likelihood of rain got the better of 
their devotion, and what, perhaps, might still be a stronger motive of their 
curiosity. In the morning we despatched a runner to the Nottoway town, to 
let the Indians know we intended them a visit that evening, and our honest 
landlord was so kind as to be our pilot thither, being about four miles from his 
house. Accordingly in the afternoon we marched in good order to the town, 
where the female scouts, stationed on an eminence for that purpose, had no 
sooner spied us, but they gave notice of our approach to their fellow citizens 
by continual whoops and cries, which could not possibly have been more dis- 
mal at the sight of their most implacable enemies. This signal assembled 
all their ffreatmen, who received us in a body, and conducted us into the 
fort. Tills fort was a square piece of ground, inclosed with substantial pun- 
cheons, or strong palisades, about ten feet high, and leaning a little outwards, 
to make a scalade more difficult. Each side of the square might be about a 
hundred yards long, with loop-holes at proper distances, through which they 
may fire upon the enemy. Within this inclosure we found bark cabins sufficient 
to lodge all their people, in case they should be obliged to retire thither. 
These "cabins are no other but close arbours made of saplings, arched at the 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 35 

top, and covered so well with bark as to be proof asrainst all weather. Tiie 
fire is made in the middle, according to the Hibernian fashion, the smoke 
whereof finds no other vent but at the door, and so keeps the whole family- 
warm, at the expense both of their eyes and complexion. The Indians have 
no standing furniture in their cabins but hurdles to repose their persons 
upon, w^hich they cover with mats and deer-.skins. We were conducted to 
the best apartments in the fort, which just before had been made ready for 
our reception, and adorned with new mats, that \vere very sweet and clean. 
The young men had painted themselves in a hideous manner, not so much 
for ornament as terror. In that frightful equipage they entertained us with 
sundry war dances, wherein they endeavoured to look as formidable as possi- 
ble. The instrument they danced to was an Indian drum, that is, a large 
gourd with a skin braced tight over the mouth of it. The dancers all sang to 
the music, keeping exact time with their feet, while their heads and arms 
were screwed into a thousand menacing postures. Upon this occasion the 
ladies had arrayed themselves in all their finery. They were wrapped in 
their red and blue match coats, thrown so negligently about them, that their 
mahogany skins appeared in several parts, like the Lacedtemonian damsels of 
old. Their hair was braided with white and blue peak, and hung gracefully 
in a large roll upon their shoulders. 

This peak consists of small cylinders cut out of a conch shell, drilled 
through and strung like beads. It serves them both for money and jewels, 
the blue being of much greater value than the white, for the same reason 
that Ethiopian mistresses in France are dearer than French, because they 
are more scarce. The women wear necklaces and bracelets of these pre- 
cious materials, when they have a mind to appear lovely. Though their 
complexions be a little sad-coloured, yet their shapes are very strait and well 
proportioned. Their faces are seldom handsome, yet they have an air bf 
innocence and bashfulness, that with a little less dirt would not fail to make 
them desirable. Such charms might have had their full effect upon men who 
had been so long deprived of female conversation, but that the whole winter's 
soil was so crusted on the skins of those dark angels, that it required a very 
strong appetite to approach them. The bear's oil, with which they anoint 
their persons all over, makes their skins soft, and at the same time protects 
them from every species of vermin that use to be troublesome to other un- 
cleanly people. We were unluckily so many, that they could not well make 
us the compliment of bed-fellows, according to the Indian rules of hospitality, 
though a grave matron whispered one of the commissioners very civilly in 
the ear, that if her daughter had been but one year older, she should have 
been at his devotion. 

It is by no means a loss of reputation among the Indians, for damsels 
that are single to have intrigues with the men ; on the contrary, they account 
it an argument of superior merit to be liked by a great number of gallants. 
However, like the ladies that game, they are a little mercenary in their 
amours, and seldom bestow their favours out of stark love and kindness. But 
after these women have once appropriated their charms by marriage, they 
are from thenceforth faithful to their vows, and will hardly ever be tempted 
by an agreeable gallant, or be provoked by a brutal or even by a careless 
husband to go astray. The little work that is done among the Indians is 
done by the poor women, while the men are quite idle, or at most employed 
only in the gentlemanly diversions of hunting and fishing. In this, as well 
as in their wars, they use nothing but fire-arms, which they purchase of the 
English for skins. Bows and arrows are grown into disuse, except only 
amongst their boys. Nor is it ill policy, but on the contrary very prudent, 
thus to furnish the Indians with fire-arms, because it makes them depend 



36 THE HISTORY OF 

entirely upon the English, not oniy for their trade, but even for their subsist- 
ence. Besides, they were really able to do more mischief, while they made 
use of arrows, of which they would let silently fly several in a minute with 
wonderful dexterity, whereas now they hardly ever discharge their fire-locks 
more than once, which they insidiously do from behind a tree, and then 
retire as nimbly as the Dutch horse used to do now and then formerly in 
Flanders. We put the Indians to no expense, but only of a little corn for 
our horses, for which in gratitude we cheered their hearts with v/hat rum we 
had left, which they love better than they do their wives and children. Though 
these Indians dwell among the English, and see in what plenty a little indus- 
try enables them to live, yet they choose to continue in their stupid idleness, 
and to suffer all the inconveniences of dirt, cold and want, rather than to dis- 
turb their heads with care, or defile their hands with labour. 

The whole number of people belonging to the Nottoway town, if you in- 
clude women and children, amount to about two hundred. These are the 
only Indians of any consequence now remaining within the limits of Virgi- 
nia. The rest are either removed, or dwindled to a very inconsiderable num- 
ber, either by destroying one another, or else by the small-pox and other dis- 
eases. Though nothing has been so fatal to them as their ungovernable 
passion for rum, with which, I am sorry to say it, they have been but too 
liberally supplied by the English that live near them. And here I must la- 
ment the bad success Mr. Boyle's charity has hitherto had towards convert- 
ing any of these poor heathens to Christianity. Many children of our neigh- 
bouring Indians have been brought up in the college of William and Mary. 
They have been taught to read and write, and have been carefully instructed in 
the principles of the Christian religion, till they came to be men. Yet after they 
returned home, instead of civilizing and converting the rest, they have imme- 
diately relapsed into infidelity and barbarism themselves. 

And some of them too have made the worst use of the knowledge they 
acquired among the English, by employing it against their benefactors. 
Besides, as they unhappily forget all the good they learn, and remember the 
ill, they are apt to be more vicious and disorderly than the rest of their coun- 
trymen. I ought not to quit this subject without doing justice to the great 
prudence of colonel Spotswood in this affair. That gentleman was lieutenant 
governor of Virginia when Carolina was engaged in a bloody war with the 
Indians. At that critical time it was thought expedient to keep a watchful eye 
upon our tributary savages, who we knew had nothing to keep them to their 
duty but their fears. Then it was that he demanded of each nation a compe- 
tent number of their great men's children to be sent to the college, where they 
served as so many hostages for the good behaviour of the rest, and at the same 
time were themselves principled in the Christian religion. He also placed a school 
master among the Saponi Indians, at the salary of fifty pounds per annum, to 
instruct their children. The person that undertook that charitable work was 
Mr, Charles Griffin, a man of a good family, who, by the innocence of his 
life, and the sweetness of his temper, was perfectly well qualified for that pious 
undertaking. Besides, he had so much the secret of mixing pleasure with 
instruction, that he had not a scholar who did not love him affectionately. 
Such talents must needs have been blest with a proportionable success, had 
he not been unluckily removed to the college, by which he left the good work 
he had begun unfinished. In short, all the pains he had taken among the infi- 
dels had no other effect but to make them something cleanlier than other 
Indians are.. The care colonel Spotswood took to tincture the Indian children 
with Christianity produced the following epigram, which was not published 
during his administration, for fear it might then have looked like flattery. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 37 

Long has the furious priest assayed in vain, 
With sword and faggot, infidels to gain. 
But now the milder soldier wisely tries 
By gentler methods to unveil their eyes. 
Wonders apart, he knew 'twere vain t'engage 
The fix'd preventions of misguided age. 
With fairer hopes he forms the Indian youth 
To early manners, probity and truth. 
The lion's whelp thus, on the Lybian shore, ^ 
Is tamed and gentled by the artful Moor, V 
Not the grim sire, inured to blood before. ) 

I am sorry I cannot give a better account of the state of the poor Indians 
with respect to Christianity, although a great deal of pains has been and still 
continues to be taken with them. For my part, I must be of opinion, as I 
hinted before, that there is but one way of converting these poor infidels, 
and reclaiming them from barbarity, and that is, charitably to intermarry 
with them, according to the modern policy of the most Christian king in 
Canada and Louisiana. Had the English done this at the first settlement of 
the colony, the infidelity of the Indians had been worn out at this day, with 
their dark complexions, and the country had swarmed with people more than 
it does with insects. It was certainly an unreasonable nicety, that prevented 
their entering into so good-natured an alliance. All nations of men have 
the same natural dignity, and we all know that very bright talents may be 
lodged under a very dark skin. The principal difference between one people 
and another proceeds only from the different opportunities of improvement. 
The Indians by no means want understanding, and are in their figure tall 
and well-proportioned. Even their copper-coloured complexion would admit 
of blanching, if not in the first, at the farthest in the second generation. I 
may safely venture to say, the Indian women would have made altogether 
as honest wives for the first planters, as the damsels they used to purchase 
from aboard the ships. It is strange, therefore, that any good Christian 
should have refused a wholesome, straight bed-fellow, when he might have 
had so fair a portion with her, as the merit of saving her soul. 

8th. We rested on our clean mats very comfortably, though alone, and the 
next morning went to the toilet of some of the Indian ladies, where, what 
with the charms of their persons and the smoke of their apartments, we 
were almost blinded. They offered to give us silk-grass baskets of their 
own making, which we modestly refused, knowing that an Indian present, 
like that of a nun, is a liberality put out to interest, and a bribe placed to the 
greatest advantage. Our chaplain observed with concern, that the ruffles of 
some of our fellow travellers were a little discoloured with pochoon, where- 
with the good man had been told those ladies used to improve their invisible 
charms. 

About 10 o'clock we marched out of town in good order, and the war 
captains saluted us with a volley of small arms. From thmcc we proceeded 
over Black-water bridge to colonel Henry Harrisoxi's, where we congralulated 
each other upon our return into Christendom. 

Thus ended our progress for this season, which we may justl}'- say was 
attended with all the success that could be oypected. Besi les the punctual 
performance of what was committed to us, we had the pleasure to bring- 
back every one of our company in perfect health. And this we must ac- 
knowledge to be a singular blessing, considering the diffio-ulties and dangers 
to which they had been exposed. We had reason to fear the many waters 
and sunken grounds, through which we were obliged to wade, might have 

F 



3g . THE HISTORY OF 

thrown the men into sundry acute distempers ; especially the Dismal, where 
the soil was so full of water, and the air so full of damps, that nothing but a 
Dutchman could live in them. Indeed the foundation of all our success was 
the exceeding dry season. It rained during the whole journey but rarely, 
and then, as when Herod built his temple, only in the night or upon the sab- 
bath, when it was no hinderance at all to our progress. 

September. The tenth of September being thought a little too soon for the 
commissioners to meet, in order to proceed on the line, on account of snakes, 
it was agreed to put it off to the twentieth of the same month, of which due 
notice was sent to the Carolina commissioners. 

Sept. 19. We, on the part of Virginia, that we might be sure to be punctual, 
arrived at Mr. Kinchin's, the place appointed, on the nineteenth, after a jour- 
ney of three days, in which nothing remarkable happened. We found three 
of tiie Carolina commissioners had taken possession of the house, having 
come thitlier by water from Eden ton. By the great quantity of provisions 
these gentlemen brought, and the few men they had to eat them, we were 
afraid they intended to carry the line to the South sea. They had five hun- 
dred pounds of bacon and dried beef, and five hundred pounds of biscuit, 
and not above three or four men. The misfortune was, they forgot to 
provide horses to carry their good things, or else trusted to the uncertainty 
of hiring tliem here, which, considering the place, was leaving too much 
to that jilt, hazard. On our part we had taken better care, being completely 
furnished with every thing necessary for transporting our baggage and 
pro^-'.sions. Indeed we brought no other provisions out with us but a thou- 
sand pounds of bread, and had faith enough to depend on Providence for 
our meat, being desirous to husband the public money as much as possible. 
We had no less than twenty men, besides the chaplain, the surveyors and 
all the servants, to be subsisted upon this bread. However, that it might 
hold out the better, our men had been ordered to provide themselves at 
home with provision for ten days, in which time we judged we should get 
beyond the inhabitants, where forest game of all sorts was like to be plenty 
at that time of the year. 

20th. This being the day appointed for our rendezvous, great part of it 
was spent in the careful fixing our baggage and assembling our men, who 
were ordered ■to meet us here. We took care to examine their arms, and 
made proof of the powder provided for the expedition. Our provision-horses 
had been hindered by the rain from coming up exactly at the day ; but this 
delay was the less disappointment, by reason of the ten days' subsistence the 
men had been direeted to provide for themselves. Mr. Moseley did not join 
us till the afternoon, nor Mr. Swan till several days after. 

Mr. Kinchin had unadvisedly sold the men a little brandy of his own 
makuig, which produced much disorder, causing some to be too choleric, arid 
others too loving ; insomuch that a damsel, who assisted in the kitchen, had 
certainly suffered what the nuns call martyrdom, had she not capitulated a 
little too soon. This outrage would have called for some severe discipline, 
had she not bashfull}' withdrawn herself early in the morning, and so carried 
off the evidence. 

21st. We despatched away the surveyors without loss of time, who, with 
all their diligence, could carry the line no farther than three miles and a 
hundred and seventy-six poles, by reason the low ground was one entire 
thicket. In that distance they crossed Meherrin river the fourth time. In 
the mean while the Virginia commissioners thought proper to conduct their 
baggage a ferther way about, for the convenience of a clearer road. 

The Carolina gentlemen did at length, more by fortune than forecast, hire 
a clumsy vehicle, something like a cart, to transport their effects as far as 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 39 

Roanoke. This wretched machine, at first setting out, met with a very rude 
cheque, that broke a case-bottle of cherry brandy in so unlucky a manner 
that not one precious drop was saved. This melancholy beginning foreboded 
an unprosperous journey, and too quick a return, to the persons most imme- 
diately concerned. 

In our way we crossed Fountain creek, which runs into Meherrin river, 
so called from the disaster of an unfortunate Indian trader who had formerly 
been drowned in it, and, like Icarus, left his name to that fatal stream. We 
took up our quarters on the plantation of John Hill, where we pitched our 
tent, with design to tarry till such time as the surveyors could work their 
/way to us. 

22d. This being •Sunda)^ we had an opportunity of resting from our la- 
bours. The expectation of such a novelty as a sermon in these parts 
brought together a numerous congregation. When the sermon was over, 
our chaplain did his part towards making eleven of them Christians. 

Several of our men had intermitting fevers, but were soon restored to 
their health again by proper remedies. Our chief medicine was dogwood 
bark, which we used, instead of that of Peru, with good success. Indeed, it 
was given in larger quantity, but then, to make the patients amends, they 
swallowed much fewer doses. 

In the afternoon our provision horses arrived safe in the camp. They had 
met with very heavy rains, but, thank God, not a single biscuit received the 
least damage thefeby. We were furnished by the neigh boursj with very 
lean cheese and very fat mutton, upon which occasion it will not be improper 
to draw one conclusion, from the evidence of North Carolina, that sheep 
would thrive much better in the woods than in pasture land, provided a care- 
ful shepherd were employed to keep them from straying, and, by the help of 
dogs, to protect them also from the wolves. 

23d. The surveyors came to us at night, though they had not brought the 
line so far as our camp, for which reason we thought it needless to go for- 
ward till they came up with us. They could run no more than four miles and 
five poles, because the ground was every where grown up with thick bushes. 
The soil here appeared to be very good, though much broken betwixt Foun- 
tain creek and Roanoke river. The line crossed Meherrin river the fifth and 
last time, nor were our people sorry to part with a stream the meanders of 
which had given them so much trouble. 

Our hunters brought us four wild turkeys, which at that season began to 
be fat and very delicious, especially the hens. These birds seem to be of the 
bustard kind, and fly heavily. Some of them are exceedingly large, and weigh 
upwards of forty pounds ; nay, some bold historians venture to say, upwards 
of fifty pounds. They run very fast, stretching forth their wings all the time, 
like tlie ostrich, by way of sails to quicken their speed. They roost commonly 
upon very high trees, standing near some river or creek, and are so stupified 
at the sight of fire, that if you make a blaze in the night near the place 
where they roost, you may fire upon them several times successively, before 
they will dare to fly away. Their spurs are so sharp and strong, that the 
Indians used formerly to point their arrows with them, though now they 
point them with a sharp white stone. In the spring the turkey-cocks begin 
to gobble, which is the language wherein they make love. 

It rained very hard in the night, with a violent storm of thunder and light- 
ning, which obliged us to trench in our tent all round, to carry off the water 
that fell upon it. 

24th. So soon as the men could dry their blankets, we sent out the survey- 
ors, who now meeting with more favourable grounds, advanced the lin$ seren 
miles and eighty-two poles. However, the commissioners did not think proper 
to decamp that day, believing they might easily overtake the surveyors the 



40 THE HISTORY OF 

next. In the mean time they sent out some of their most expert gunners, 
who brought in four more wild turkeys. 

This part of the country being very proper for raising cattle and hogs, we 
observed the inhabitants Hved in great plenty without killing themselves with 
labour. I found near our camp some plants of that kind of rattle-snake root, 
called star-grass. The leaves shoot out circularly, and grow horizontally 
and near the ground. The root is in shape not unlike the rattle of that ser- 
pent, and is a strong antidote against the bite of it. It is very bitter, and 
where it meets with any poison, works by violent sweats, but where it meets 
with none, has no sensible operation but that of putting the spirits into a 
great hurry, and so of promoting perspimtion. The rattle-snake has an utter 
antipathy to this plant, insomuch that if you smear your hands with the juice 
of it, you may handle the viper safely. ^Thus much I can say on my own 
■ experience, that once in July, when these snakes are in their greatest vigour, 
j I besmeared a dog's nose with the powder of this root, and made him tram- 
.' pie on a large snake several times, which, however, was so far from biting 
him, that it perfectly sickened at the dog's approach, and turned its head 
from him with the utmost aversion^ 

Our chaplain, to show his zeal, made an excursion of six miles to christen 
two children, but without the least regard to the good cheer at these so- 
lernnities. 

25th. The surveyors, taking the advantage of clear woods, pushed on the 
line seven miles and forty poles. In the mean time the commissioners marched 
with the baggage about twelve miles, and took up their quarters near the 
banks of the Beaver pond, (which is one branch of Fountain creek,) just by 
the place where the surveyoi's were to finish their day's work. In our march 
one of tfe<3 men killed a small rattle-snake, which had no more than two rat- 
tles. Those vipers remain in vigour generally till towards the end of Sep- 
tember, or sometimes later, if the weather continue a little warm. On this 
consideration we had provided three several sorts of rattle-snake root, made 
up into proper doses, and ready for immediate use, in case any one of the 
men or their horses had been bitten. We crossed Fountain creek once more 
in our journey this day, and found the grounds very rich, notwithstanding 
they were broken and stony. Near the place where we encamped the 
county of Brunswick is divided from the Isle of Wight. These counties run 
quite on the back of Surry and Prince George, and are laid out in very ir- 
regular figures. As a proof the land mended hereabouts, we found the plan- 
tations began to grow thicker by much than we had found them lower down. 

26th. We hurried away the surveyors without loss of time, who extended the 
line ten miles and a hundred and sixty poles, the grounds proving dry and free 
from under-woods. By the way the chain-carriers killed two more rattle-snakes, 
which I own was a Uttle ungrateful, because two or three of the men had 
strided over them without receiving any hurt ; though one of these vipers 
had made bold to strike at one of the baggage horses, as he went along, but 
by good luck his teeth only grazed on the hoof, without doing him any 
damage. However, these accidents were, I think, so many arguments that 
we had very good reason to deter our coming out till the 20th of September. 
We observed abundance of St. Andrew's cross in all the woods we passed 
through, which is the common remedy used by the Indian traders to cure 
their horses when they are bitten by rattle-snakes. It grows on a straight 
stem, about eighteen inches high, and bears a yellow flower on the top, that 
has an eye of black in the middle, with several pairs of narrow leaves shoot- 
ing out at right angles from the stock over against one another. This anti- 
dote grows providentially all over the woods, and upon all sorts of soil, that 
it may be every where at hand in case a disaster should happen, and may be 
had all the hot months while the snakes are danserous. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



41 



About four o'cloek in the afternoon we took up our quarters upon Caban 
branch, which also discharges itself into Fountain creek. On our way we 
observed several meadows clothed with very rank grass, and branches full of 
tall reeds, in which cattle keep themselves fat good part of the winter. But 
hogs are as injurious to both as goats are said to be to vines, and for that rea- 
son it was not lawful to sacrifice them to Bacchus. We halted by the way 
to christen two children at a spring, where their mothers waylaid us for 
that good purpose. 

27th. It was ten o'clock before the surveyors got to work, because some of 
the horses had straggled a great distance from the camp. Nevertheless, 
meeting with practicable woods, they advanced the line nine miles and a hun- 
dred and four poles. We crossed over Pea creek about four miles from our 
quarters, and, three miles farther, Lizard creek, both which empty their wa- 
ters into Roanoke river. Between these two creeks a poor man waited for 
us with five children to be baptized, and we halted till the ceremony was 
ended. The land seemed to be very good, by the largeness of the trees, 
though very stony. We proceeded as far as Pigeon-roost creek, which also 
runs into Roanoke, and there quartered. Vv'e had not the pleasure of the 
company of any of the Carolina commissioners in this day's march, except 
Mr. Moseley's, the rest tarrying behind to wait the coming up of their baggage 
cart, which they had now not seen nor heard (though the wheels made a dis- 
mal noise) for several days past. Indeed it was a very difficult undertaking to 
conduct a cart through such pathless and perplexed woods, and no wonder 
if its motion was a little planetary. We would have paid them the compli- 
ment of waiting for them, could we have done it at any other expense but 
that of the public. 

In the stony grounds we rode over we found great quantity of the true ipo- 
coacanna, which in this part of the world is called Indian physic. This has se- 
veral stalks growing up from the same root about a foot high, bearing a leaf 
resembling that of a strawberry. It is not so strong as that from Brazil, but 
has the same happy effects, if taken in somewhat a larger dose. It is an ex- 
cellent vomit, and generally cures intermitting fevers and bloody fluxes at 
once or twice taking. There is abundunce of it in the upper part of the 
country, where it delights most in a stony soil intermixed with black mould. 

28th. Our surveyors got early to work, yet could forward the line but six 
miles and a hundred and twenty-one poles, because of the uneven grounds 
in the neighbourhood of Roanoke, which they crossed in this day's work. 
In that place the river is forty-nine poles wide, and rolls down a crystal 
stream of very sweet water, insomuch that when there comes to be a 
great monarch in this part of the world, he will cause all the water for his 
own table to be brought from Roanoke, as the great kings of Persia did 
theirs from the Nile, and Choaspis, because the waters of those rivers were 
light, and not apt to corrupt.* 

The great falls of Roanoke lie about twenty miles lower, to which a sloop 
of moderate burthen may come up. There are, besides these, many smaller 
falls above, though none that entirely intercept the passage of the river, as 
the great ones do, by a chain of rocks for eight miles together. The river 
forks about thirty-six miles higlier, and both branches are pretty equal in 
breadth where they divide, though the southern, now called the Dan, runs up 
the farthest. That to the north runs away near north-west, and is called the 
Staunton, and heads not far from the source of Appomattox river, while the 

• The same humour prevails at this day in the kings of Denmark, who oider all the 
East India ships of that nation to call at the cape of Good Hope, and take in a but of wa- 
ter fiom a spring on the Table Hill, and bring it to Copenhagen, for their Majesties' own 
drinking. 



42 THE HISTORY aF 

Dan stretches away pretty near west, and runs clear through the great 
mountains. 

We did not follow the surveyors till towards noon, being detained in our 
camp to christen several more children. We were conducted a nearer way, 
by a famous woodsman, called Epaphroditus Bamton. This forester spends 
all his time in ranging the woods, and is said to m.ake great havoc among the 
deer, and other inhabitants of the forest, not much wilder than himself. 

We proceeded to the canoe landing on Roanoke, where we passed the 
river with the baggage. But the horses were directed to a ford about a mile 
higher, called by the Indians Moni-seep, which signifies, in their jargon, shal- 
low water. This is the ford where the Indian traders used to cross with their 
horses, in their way to the Catawba nation. There are many rocks in the 
river thereabouts, on which grows a kind of water grass, which the wild 
geese are fond of, and resort to it in great numbers. We landed on the south 
side of Roanoke, at a plantation of Col. Mumford's, where, by that gentle- 
man's special directions, we met with sundry refreshments. Here we pitched 
our tent, for the benefit of the prospect, upon an eminence that overlooked 
a broad piece of low ground, very rich, though liable to be overflowed. By 
the way, one of our men killed another rattle-snake, with eleven rattles, hav- 
ing a large gray squirrel in his maw, the head of which was alread}'' digested, 
while the body remained still entire. The way these snakes catch their prey 
is thus : They ogle the poor little animal, till by force of the charm he falls 
down stupified and senseless on the ground. In that condition the snake ap- 
proaches, and moistens first one ear and then the other with his spawl, and 
after that the other parts of the head, to make all slippery. When that is 
done, he draws this member into his mouth, and after it, by slow degrees, all 
the rest of the body. 

29th. This being Sunday, we had divine service and a sermon, at which 
several of the borderers assisted, and we concluded the duties of the day by 
christening five children. Our devotion being performed in the open field, 
like that of Mr. Whitfield's flocks, an unfortunate shower of rain had almost 
dispersed our congregation. About four in the afternoon the Carolina com- 
missioners made a shift to come up with us, whom we had left at Pigeon-roost 
creek the Friday before, v^aiting for their provisions. When their cart came 
up they prudently discharged it, and rather chose to hire two men to carry 
some part of their baggage. The rest they had been obliged to leave behind, 
in the crotch of an old tree, for want of proper conveniences to transport it 
any farther. 

We found in the low ground several plants of the fern root, which is said 
to be much the strongest antidote yet discovered against the poison of the 
rattle-snake. The leaves of it resemble those of fern, from whence it obtained 
its name. Several stalks shoot from the same root, about six inches long, that 
lie mostly on the ground. It grows in a very rich soil, under the protection 
of some tall tree, that shades it from the meridian beams of the sun. The 
root has a faint spicy taste, and is preferred by the southern Indians to all 
other counter-poisons in this country. But there is another sort preferred by 
the northern Indians, that they call Seneca rattle-snake root, to which wonder- 
ful virtues are ascribed in the cure of pleurisies, fevers, rheumatisms, and 
dropsies ; besides it being a powerful antidote against the venom of the rattle- 
snake. 

In the ev^ening the messenger we had sent to Christiana returned with five 
Saponi Indians. We could not entirely rely on the dexterity of our own 
men, which induced us to send for some of the Indians. We agreed with 
two of the most expert of them, upon reasonable terms, to hunt for us the 
remaining part of our expedition. But one of them falling sick soon after, 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 43 

we were content to take only the other, whose hunting name was Bear-skin. 
This Indian, either by his skill or good luck, supplied us plentifully all the 
way with meat, seldom discharging his piece in vain. By his assistance, 
therefore, we were able to keep our men to their business, without suffering 
them to straggle about the woods, on pretence of furnishing us with neces- 
sary food. 

30th. It had rained all night, and made every thing so wet, that our survey- 
ors could not get to their work before noon. They could therefore measure no 
more than four miles and two hundred and twenty poles, which, according to the 
best information we could get, was near as high as the uppermost inhabitant 
at that time. We crossed the Indian trading path above-mentioned about a mile 
from our camp, and a mile beyond that forded Haw-tree creek. The woods 
we passed through had all the tokens of sterility, except a small poisoned 
field, on which grew no tree bigger than a slender sapling. The larger trees 
had been destroyed, either by fire or caterpillars, v/hich is often the case in 
the upland woods, and the places where such desolation happens are called 
poisoned fields. We took up our quarters upon a branch of Great creek, 
where there was tolerable good grass for the poor horses. These poor ani- 
mals having now got beyond the latitude of corn, were obliged to shift as 
well as they could for themselves. 

On our way the men roused a bear, which being the first we had seen 
since we came out, the poor beast had many pursuers. Several persons con- 
tended for the credit of killing him : though he was so poor he was not 
worth the powder. This was some disappointment to our woodsmen, who 
commonly prefer the flesh of bears to every kind of venison. There is some- 
thing indeed pecuhar to this animal, namely, that its fat is very firm, and may 
be eaten plentifully without rising in the stomach. The paw (which, when 
stripped of the hair, looks like a human foot,) is accounted a delicious morsel 
by all who are not shocked at the ungracious resemblance it bears to a 
huinan foot. 

October 1st. There was a white frost this morning on the ground, occa- 
sioned by a north-west wind, which stood our friend in dispersing all aguish 
damps, and making the air wholesome at the same time that it made it cold. 
Encouraged therefore by the weather, our surveyors got to work early, and 
by the benefit of clear woods, and level ground, drove the line twelve miles 
and twelve poles. 

At a small distance from our camp we crossed Great creek, and about 
seven miles further Nut-bush creek, so called from the many hazel-trees grow- 
ing upon it. By good luck many branches of these creeks were full of reeds, 
to the great comfort of our horses. Near five miles from thence we encamp- 
ed on a branch that runs into Nut-bush creek, where those reeds flourished 
more than ordinary. The land we marched over was for the most part 
broken and stony, and in some places covered over with thickets almost im- 
penetrable. At night the surveyors, taking advantage of a clear sky, made 
a third trial of the variation, and found it still something less than three de- 
grees, so that it did not diminish by advancing towards the west, or by 
approaching the mountains, nor yet by increasing our distance from the sea ; 
but remained much the same we had found it at Coratuck inlet. One of our 
Indians killed a large fawn, which was very welcome, though, like Hudibras' 
horse, it had hardly flesh enough to cover its bones. In the low grounds the 
Carolina gentlemen showed us another plant, which they said was used in 
their country to cure the bite of the rattle-snake. It put forth several leaves 
in figure like a heart, and was clouded so like the common Assa-rabacca, that 
I conceived it to be of that family. 

2d. So soon as the horses could be found, we hurried away the surveyors. 



44 THE HISTORY OF 

who advanced the hne nine miles and tv.'o hundred and fifty-four poles. About 
three miles from the camp they crossed a large creek, which the Indians called 
Massamoni, signifying, in their language. Paint creek, because of the great 
quantity of red ochre found in its banks. This in every fresh tinges the water 
just as the same mineral did formerly, and to this day continues to tinge, the 
famous river Adonis, in Phoenicia, by which there hangs a celebrated fable. 
Three miles beyond that we passed another water with difficulty, called Ya- 
patsco, or Beaver creek. Those industrious animals had dammed up the wa- 
ter so high, that we had much ado to get over. It is hardly credible how 
much work of this kind they will do in the space of one night. They bite 
young saplings into proper lengths with their fore-teeth, which are exceeding 
strong and sharp, and afterwards drag them to the place where they intend 
to stop the water. Then they know how to join timber and earth together 
with so much skill, that their work is able to resist the most violent flood that 
can happen. In this they are qualified to instruct their betters, it being cer- 
tain their dams will stand firm when the strongest that are made by men will 
be carried down the stream: We observed very broad low grounds upon 
this creek, with a growth of large trees, and all the other signs of fertility, 
but seemed subject to be every where overflowed in a fresh. The certain 
way to catch these sagacious animals is this : Squeeze all the juice out of the 
large pride of the beaver, and six drops out of the small pride. Powder the 
inward bark of sassafras, and mix it with this juice, then bait therewith a 
steel trap, and they will eagerly come to it, and be taken. 

About three miles and a half further we came to the banks of another creek, 
called, in the Saponi language, Ohimpa-moni, signifying Jumping creek, from 
the frequent jumping of fish during the spring season. 

Here we encamped, and by the time the horses were hobbled, our hunters 
brought us no less than a brace and a half of deer, which made great plenty, 
and consequently great content in our quarters. Some of our people had 
shot a great wild cat, which was that fatal moment making a comfortable 
meal upon a fox-squirrel, and an ambitious sportsman of our company 
claimed the merit of killing this monster after it was dead. The wild cat is 
as big again as any household cat, and much the fiercest inhabitant of the 
woods. Whei^ever it is disabled, it will tear its own flesh for madness. 
Although a panther will run away from a man, a wild cat will only make a 
surly retreat, and now and then facing about, if he be too closely pursued; 
and will even pursue in his turn, if he observe the least sign of fear or even 
of caution in those that pretend to follow him. The flesh of this beast, as well 
as of the panther, is as white as veal, and altogether as sweet and delicious. 

3d. We got to work early this morning, and carried the line eight miles and 
a hundred and sixty poles. We forded several runs of excellent water, and 
afterwards traversed a large level of high land full of lofty walnut, poplar, and 
white oak trees, which are certain proofs of a fruitful soil. This level was near 
two miles in length, and of an unknown breadth, quite out of danger of 
being overflowed, which is a misfortune most of the low grounds are liable 
to in those parts. As we marched along we saw many buffalo tracks, and 
abundance of their dung very fresh, but could not have the pleasure of see- 
ing them. They either smelt us out, having that sense very quick, or else 
were alarmed at the noise that so many people must necessarily make in 
marching along. At the sight of a man they will snort and grunt, cock up 
their ridiculous short tails, and tear up the ground wich a sort of timorous 
fury. These wild cattle hardly ever I'ange alone, but herd together like those 
that are tame. They are seldom seen so far north as forty degrees of latitude, 
delighting much in canes and reeds, which grow generally more southerly. 

We quartered on the banks of a creek that the inhabitants call Tewaho- 



THE DIVIDLVG LINE. 



45 



miny, or Tuskarooda creek, because one of that nation had been killed there- 
abouts, and his body thrown into the creek. 

Our people had the fortune to kill a brace of does, one of which we pre- 
sented to the Carolina gentlemen, who w^ere glad to partake of the bounty of 
Providence, at the same time that they sneered at us for depending upon it. 

4th. "We hurried away tlie surveyors about nine this morning, who extend- 
ed the line seven miles and a hundred and sixty poles, notwithstanding the 
ground was exceedingly uneven. At the distance of five miles we forded a 
stream to which we gave the name of Bkiewing creek, because of the great 
number of those fowls that then frequented it. About two and a half miles 
beyond that, we came upon Sugar-tree creek, so called from the many trees 
of that kind that grow upon it. By tapping this tree, in the first warm wea- 
ther in February, one may get from twenty to forty gallons of liquor, very 
sweet to the taste and agreeable to the stomach. This may be boiled into 
molasses first, and afterwards into very good sugar, allowing about ten gal- 
lons of the liquor to make a pound. There is no doubt, too, that a very fine 
spirit may be distilled from the molasses, at least as good as rum. The sugar 
tree delights only in rich ground, where it grows very tall, and by the soft- 
ness and sponginess of the wood should be a quick growler. Near this creek 
we discovered likewise several spice trees, the leaves of which are fragrant, 
and the berries they bear are black when dry, and of a hot taste, not much 
unlike pepper. The low grounds upon the creek are very wide, sometimes 
on one side, sometimes on the other; though most commonly upcn the oppo- 
site shore the high land advances close to the bank, only on the north side of 
the line it spreads itself into a great breadth of rich low ground on both sides 
the creek for four miles together, as far as this stream runs into Hico river, 
whereof I shall presently make mention. One of our men spied three buffa- 
loes, but his piece being loaded only with goose-shot, he was able to make no ' 
effectual impression on their thick hides ; however, this disappointment was 
made up by a brace of bucks, and as many wild turkeys, killed by the rest 
of the company. Thus Providence was very bountiful to our endeavours, 
never disappointing those that faithfully rely upon it, and pray heartily for 
their daily bread. 

5th. This day we met with such uneven grounds, and thick underwoods, 
that with all our industry we were able to advance the line but four miles and 
three hundred and twelve poles. In this small distance it intersected a large 
stream four times, which our Indian at first mistook for the south branch of 
Roanoke river ; but, discovering his error soon after, he assured us it was a 
river called Hicootomony, or Turkey-buzzard river, from the great number 
of those unsavoury birds that roost on the tall trees growing near its banks. 

Early in the afternoon, to our very great surprise, the commissioners of 
Carolina acquainted us with their resolution to return home. This declara- 
tion of theirs seemed the more abrupt, because they had not been so kind as 
to prepare us, by the least hint, of their intention to desert us. We therefore 
let them understand they appeared to us to abandon the business they came 
about with too much precipitation, this being but the fifteenth day since we 
came out the last time. But, although we were to be so unhappy as to lose 
the assistance of their gregt abilities, yet we, who were concerned for "Vir- 
ginia, determined, by the grace of God, not to do our work by halves, but, all 
deserted as we were like to be, should think it our duty to push the line quite 
to the mountains ; and if their government should refuse to be bound by so 
much of the line as w\is run without their commissioners, yet at least it 
would bind Virginia, and stand as a direction how far his majesty's lands ex- 
tend to the southward. In short, these gentlemen were positive, and the mo.st 
we could agree upon was to subscribe plots of our work as far as we had 

G 



46 THE HISTORY OF 

acted together ; though at the same time we insisted these plots should be gotten 
ready by Monday noon at farthest, when we on the part of Virginia intend- 
ed, if we were alive, to move forward without farther loss of time, the season 
being then too far advanced to admit of any unnecessary or complaisant 
delays. ""■ 

6th. We lay still this day, being Sunday, on the bank of Hico river, and 
had only prayers, our chaplain not having .spirits enough to preach. The 
gentlemen of Carolina assisted not at our public devotions, because they were 
taken up all the morning in making a formidable protest against our proceed- 
ing on the line without them. When the divine service was over, the surveyors 
set about making the plots of so much of the line as we had run this last 
campaign. Our pious friends of Carolina assisted in this work with some 
seeming scruple, pretending it was a violation of the sabbath, which we were 
the more surprised at, because it happened to be the first qualm of conscience 
they had ever been troubled with during the whole journey. They had made 
no bones of staying from prayers to hammer out an unnecessary protest, 
though divine service was no sooner over, but an unusual fit of godliness 
made them fancy that finishing the plots, which was now matter of necessity, 
was a profanation of the day. However, the expediency of losing no time, 
for us who thought it our duty to finish what we had undertaken, made such 
a labour pardonable. 

In the afternoofi, Mr. Fitzwilliam, one of the commissioners for Virginia, 
acquainted his colleagues it was his opinion, that by his majesty's order they 
could not proceed farther on the line, but in conjunction with the commission- 
ers of Carolina ; for which reason he intended to retire, the next morning, 
with those gentlemen. This looked a little odd in our brother commissioner ; 
though, in justice to him, as well as to our Carolina friends, they stuck by us as 
long as our good liquor lasted, and were so kind to us as to drink our good 
journey to the mountains in the last bottle we had left. 

7th. The duplicates of the plots could not be drawn fair this day before 
noon, when they were countersigned by the commissioners of each govern- 
ment. Then those of Carolina delivered their protest, which was by this 
time licked into form, and signed by them all. And we have been so just to 
them as to set it down at full length in the Appendix, that their I'easons for 
leaving us may appear in their full strength. After having thus adjusted all 
our affairs with the Carolina commissioners, and kindly supphed them with 
bread to carry them back, which they hardly deserved at our hands, we took 
leave both of them and our colleague, Mr. Fitzwilliam. This gentleman had 
still a stronger reason for hurrying him back to Williamsburg, which was, 
that neither the general court might lose an able judge, nor himself a double 
salary, not despairing in the least but he should have the whole pay of com- 
missioner into the bargain, though he did not half the work. This, to be sure, 
was relying more on the interest of his friends than on the justice of his 
cause ; in which, however, he had the misfortune to miscarry, when it came 
to be fairly considered, 

It was two o'clock in the afternoon before these arduous affairs could be 
despatched, and then, all forsaken as we were, we held on our course towards 
the west. But it was our misfortune to meet with so many thickets in this 
afternoon's work, that we could advance no further than two miles and two 
hundred and sixty poles. In this small distance we crossed the Hico the fifth 
time, and quartered near Buffalo creek, so named from the frequent tokens 
we discovered of that Arherican behemoth. Here the bushes were so intole- 
rably thick, that we were obliged to cover the bread bags with our deer skins, 
otherwise the joke of one of the Indians must have happened to us in good 
earnest, that in a few days we must cut up our house to make bags for our 



^-^ THE DIVIDING LINE. 47 

7 

bread, and so be forced to expose our backs in compliment to our bellies. We 
computed we had then biscuit enough left to last us, with good management, 
seven weeks longer ; and this being our chief dependence, it imported us to 
be very careful both in the carriage and the distribution of it. 

We had now no other drink but what Adam drank in Paradise, though to 
our comfort we found the water excellent, by the help of which we perceived 
our appetites to mend, our slumbers to sweeten, the stream of life to run cool 
and peaceably in our veins, and if ever we dreamed of women, they were 
kind. Our men killed a very fat buck and several turkeys. These two kinds of 
meat boiled together, with the addition of a little rice or French barley, made 
excellent soup, and, what happens rarely in other good things, it never cloyed, 
no more than an engaging wife would do, by being a constant dish. Our In- 
dian was very superstitious in this matter, and told us, with a Hice fisll of con- 
cern, that if we continued to boil venison and turkey together, we should for 
the future kill nothing, because the spirit that presided over the woods would 
drive all the game out of our sight. But we had the happiness to find this an 
idle superstition, and though his argument could not convince us, yet our repeat- 
ed experience at last, with much ado, convinced him. We observed abundance 
of colt's foot and maiden-hair in many places, and no where a larger quantity 
than here. They are both excellent pectoral plants, and seem to have greater 
virtues much in this part of the world than in more northern climates ; and I 
believe it may pass for a rule in botanies, that where any vegetable is planted 
by the hand of nature, it has more virtue than in places whereto it is trans- 
planted by the curiosity of man. 

8th. Notwithstanding we hurried away the surveyors very early, yet the 
underwoods embarrassed them so much that they could with difficulty ad- 
vance the line four miles and twenty poles. Our clothes suffered extremely 
by the bushes, and it was really as much as both our hands could do to pre- 
serve our eyes in our heads. Our poor horses, too, could hardly drag their 
loads through the saplings, which stood so close together that it was necessary 
for them to draw and carry at the same time. We quartered near a spring 
of very fine water, as soft as oil and as cold as ice, to make us amends for the 
want of wine. And our Indian knocked dow^n a very fat doe, just time 
enougli to hinder us from going supperless to bed. The heavy baggage 
could not come up with us, because of the excessive badness of the ways. 
This gave us no small uneasiness, but it went worse with the poor men that 
guarded it. They had nothing in the world with them but dry bread, nor 
durst they eat any of that, for fear of inflaming their thirst, in a place where 
they could find no water to quench it. This was, however, the better to be 
endured, because it was the first fast any one had kept during the whole jour- 
ney, and then, thanks to the gracious Guardian of the woods ! there was no 
more than a single meal lost to a few of the company. We were entertained 
this nigiit with the yell of a whole family of wolves, in which we could dis- 
tinguish the treble, tenor and bass, very clearly. These beasts of prey kept 
pretty much upon our track, being tempted by the garbage of the creatures 
we killed every day ; for which we were serenaded with their shrill pipes almost 
every night. This beast is not so untameable as the panther, but the Indians 
know how to gentle their whelps, and use them about their cabins instead of 
dogs. 

9th. The thickets were hereabouts so impenetrable, that we were obliged, 
at first setting off this morning, to order four pioneers to clear the way be- 
fore the surveyors. But, after about two miles of these rough woods, we 
had the pleasure to meet with open grounds and not very uneven, by the 
help of which we were enabled to push the line about six miles. The baggage 
that lay short of our camp last night came up about noon, and the men made 



48 THE HISTORY OF 

heavy complaints, that they had been half starved, like Tantalus, in the midst 
of plenty, for the reason above mentioned. 

The soil we past over this day was generally very good, being clothed 
with large trees, of poplar, hickory and oak. But another certain token of 
its fertility was, that wild angelica grew plentifully upon it. The root of 
this plant, being very warm and aromatic, is coveted by woodsmen extreme- 
ly as a dry dram, that is, when rum, that cordial for all distresses, is wanting. 
Several deer came into our view as we marched along, but none into the pot, 
which made it necessary for us to sup on the fragments we had been so 
provident as to carry along with us. This being but a temperate repast, 
made some of our hungry fellows call the jDlace we lodged at that night, 
Bread and Water Camp. 

A great flock of cranes flew over our quarters, that were exceeding clamo- 
rous in their flight. They seem to steer their course towards the south (be- 
ing birds of passage) in quest of warmer weather. They only took this 
country in their way, being as rarely met with, in this part of the world, as a 
highwayman or a beggar. These birds travel generally in flocks, and when 
they roost they place sentinels upon some of the highest ti'ees, which con- 
stantly stand upon one leg to keep themselves waking.* 

Our hidian killed nothing all day but a mountain partridge, which a little 
resembled the common partridge in the plumage, but was near as large as a 
dunghill hen. These are very frequent towards the mountains, though we 
had the fortune to meet with very few. They are apt to be shy, and conse- 
quently the noise of so great a number of people might easily scare them 
away from our sight. We found what we conceived to be good limestone 
yi several places, and a great quantity of blue slate. 

10th. The day began very fortunately by killing a fat doe, and two brace 
of wild turkeys ; so the plenty of the morning made amends for the short 
commons over night. One of the new men we brought out with us the last 
time was unfortunately heard to wish himself at home, and for that show of 
impatience was publicly reprimanded at the head of the men, who were all 
drawn up to witness his disgrace. He was asked how he came so soon to 
be tired of the company of so many brave fellows, and whether it was the 
danger or the fatigue of the journey that disheartened him? This public re- 
proof from thenceforward put an effectual stop to all complaints, and not a 
man amongst us after that pretended so much as to wish himself in Paradise. 
A small distance from our camp we crossed a pleasant stream of water 
called Cocquade creek, and something more than a mile from thence our line 
intersected the south branch of Roanoke river the first time, which we called 
the Dan. It was about two hundred yards wide where we forded it, and 
when we came over to the west side, we found the banks lined with a forest 
of tall canes, that grew more than a furlong in depth. So that it cost us 
abundance of time and labour to cut a passage through them wade enough 
for our baggage. In the mean time we had leisure to take a full view of this 
charming river. The stream, which was perfectly clear, ran down about 

* Nor are these birds the only animals that appoint scouts to keep the main body from 
being surprised. For the baboons, whenever they ro upon any mischievous expedition, 
sucti as robbing; an orchard, place sentinels to look out towards every point of the 
compass, and give notice of any danger. Tlien ranking themselves in one file, that reaches 
from the mountain where they harbour, to the orchard they inf'.nd to rob, some of them 
toss the fruits from the trees to those that stand nearest, these tln-ow them to the next, 
and so from one to the other, till the fruit is all secured in a few minutes out of harm's 
way. In the mean time, if any of the scouts should be careless at their posts, and suifei 
any surprise, they are torn to pieces without mercy. In case of danger these sentinels 
set up a fearful cry, upon which the rest take the alarm, and scour away to the moun- 
tains as fast as they can. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 49 

two knots, or two miles, an hour, when the water was at the lowest. The 
bottom was covered with a coarse gravel, spangied very thick with a 
shining substance, that almost dazzled the eye, and the sand upon either shore 
sparkled with the same splendid particles. At first sight, the sunbeams 
giving a yellow cast to these spangles made us fancy them to be gold dust, 
and consequently that all our fortunes were made. Such hopes as these 
were the less extravagant, because several rivers lying much about the same 
latitude with this have formerly abounded with fragments of that tempting 
metal. Witness tiie Tagus in Portugal, the Heber in Thrace, and the Pactolus 
in Lesser Asia ; not to mention the rivers on the Gold Coast in Africa, which 
lie in a more southern climate. But we soon found ourselves mistaken, and 
our gold dust dwindled into small flakes qf isinglass. However, though 
this did not make the river so rich as we could wish, yet it made it exceed- 
ingly beautiful. We marched about two miles and a half beyond this river, 
as far as Cane creek, so called from a prodigious quantity of tall canes that 
fringed the banks of it. On the west side of this creek we marked out our 
quarters, and were glad to find our horses fond of the canes, though they 
scoured them smartly at first, and discoloured their dung. This beautiful ve- 
getable grows commonly from twelve to sixteen feet high, and some of them 
as thick as a man's wrist. Though these appeared large to us, yet they are 
no more than spires of grass, if compared to those which some curious tra- 
vellers tell us grow in the East Indies, one joint of which will make a brace 
of canoes, if sawed in two in the middle. Ours continue green through all 
the seasons during the space of six years, and the seventh shed their seed, 
wither away and die. The spring following they begin to shoot again, and 
reach their former stature the second or third year after. They grow so thick, 
and their roots lace together so firmly, that they are the best guard that can 
be of the river bank, which would otherwise be washed away by the frequent 
inundations that happen in this part of the world. They would also serve 
excellently well to plant on the borders of fish-ponds and canals, to secure 
their sides from falhng in; though I fear they would not grow kindly in 
a cold country, being seldom seen here so northerly as thirty-eight degrees of 
latitude. 

1 1th. At the distance of four miles and sixty poles from the place where we 
encamped, we came upon the river Dan a second time ; though it was not so 
wide in this place as where we crossed it first, being not above a hundred and 
fifty yards over. The west shore continued to be covered with the canes 
above mentioned, but not to so great a breadth as before, and it is remarkable 
that these canes are much more frequent on the west side of the river than on 
the east, where they grow generally very scattering. It was still a beautiful 
stream, rolling down its limpid and murmuring waters among the rocks, 
which lay scattered here and there, to make up the variety of the prospect. 
It was about two miles from this river to the end of our day's work, which 
led us mostly over broken grounds and troublesome underwoods. Hereabout, 
from one of the highest hills, we made the first discovery of the mountains, on 
the north-west of our course. They seemed to lie off" at a vast distance, and 
looked like ranges of blue clouds rising one above another. We encamped 
about two miles beyond the river, where we made good cheer upon a very 
fat buck, that luckily fell in our waj'-. The Indian likewise shot a wild 
turkey, but confessed he would not bring it us, lest we should continue to 
provoke the guardian of the forest, by cooking the beasts of the field and the 
birds of the air together in one vessel. This instance of Indian superstition, 
I confess, is countenanced in some measure by the Levitical law, which for- 
bade the mixing things of a different nature together in the same field, or in 
the same garment, and why not then in the same kettle"? But, after all, if the 



50 TME HISTORY OF 

jumbling of two sorts of flesh together be a sin, how intolerable an offence 
must it be to make a Spanish olla, that is, a hotchpotch of every kind of thing 
that is eatable ! And the good people of England would have a great deal to 
/ answer for, for beating up so many ditlerent ingredients into a pudding. 
J 12th. We were so cruelly entangled with bushes and grape-vines all day, 

that we could advance the line no farther than five miles and twenty-eight 
poles. The vines grow very thick in these woods, twining lovingly round 
the trees almost every where, especially to the saplings. This makes it evi- 
dent how natural both the soil and climate of this country are to vines, 
though I believe most to our own vines. The grapes we commonly met with 
were black, though there be two or three kinds of white grapes that grow 
wild. The black are very sweet, but small, because the strength of the vine 
spends itself in wood ; though without question a proper culture would make 
the same grapes both larger and sweeter. But, with all these disadvantages, 
I have drunk tolerable good wine pressed from them, though made without 
skill. There is then good reason to believe it might admit of great improve- 
ment, if rightly managed. Our Indian killed a bear, two years old, that was 
feasting on these grapes. He was very fat, as they generally are in that sea- 
son of the year. In the fall, the flesh of this animal has a high relish, differ- 
ent from that of other creatures, though inclining nearest to that of pork, or 
rather of wild boar. A true woodsman prefers this sort of meat to that of 
the fattest venison, not only for the haut gout, but also because the fat of it is 
well tasted, and never rises in the stomach. Another proof of the goodness 
of this meat is, that it is less apt to corrupt than any other with which we are 
acquainted. As agreeable as such rich diet was to the men, yet we who 
were not accustomed to it, tasted it at first with some sort of .squeamishness, 
that animal being of the dog kind ; though a little use soon reconciled us to 
this American venison. And that its being of the dog kind might give us the 
less disgust, we had the example of that ancient and polite people, the Chi- 
nese, who reckon dog's flesh too good for any under the quality of a manda- 
rin. This beast is in truth a very clean feeder, living, while the season lasts, 
upon acorns, chestnuts and chinquapins, wild honey and wild grapes. They 
are naturally not carnivorous, unless hunger constrain them to it, after the 
mast is all gone, and the product of the woods quite exhausted. They are 
not provident enough to lay up any hoard, like the squirrels, nor can they, 
after all, live very long upon licking their paws, as sir John Mandevil and 
some other travellers tell us, but are forced in the winter months to quit the 
mountains, and visit the inhabitants. Their errand is then to surprise a poor 
hog at a pinch to keep them from starving. And to show that they ai'e not 
flesh-eaters by trade, they devour their prey very awkwardly. They do not 
kill it right out, and feast upon its blood and entrails, like other ravenous 
beasts, but having, after a fair pursuit, seized it with their paws, they begin 
first upon the rump, and so devour one collop after another, till they come to 
the vitals, the poor animal crying all the while, for several minutes together. 
However, in so doing. Bruin acts a little imprudently, because the dismal out- 
cry of the hog alarms the neighbourhood, and it is odds but he pays the for- 
feit with his life, before he can secure his retreat. But bears soon grow weary 
of this unnatural diet, and about January, when there is nothing to be gotten 
in the woods, they retire into some cave or hollow tree, where they sleep 
away two or three months very comfortably. But then they quit their holes 
in March, when the fish begin to run up the rivers, on which they are forced 
to keep Lent, till some fruit or berry comes in season. But bears are fondest 
of chestnuts, which grow plentifully towards the mountains, upon very large 
trees, where the soil happens to be rich. We were curious to know how it 
happened that many of the outward branches of those trees came to be broken 



THE DIVIDING LINE 51 

off in that solitary place, and were informed that the bears are so discreet as 
not to trust their unwieldy bodies on the smaller limbs of the tree, that would 
not bear their weight ; but after venturing as far as is safe, which they can 
judge to an inch, they bite off the end of the branch, which falling down, 
they are content to finish their repast upon the ground. In the same cautious 
manner they secure the acorns that grow on the weaker limbs of the oak. 
And it must be allowed that, in these instances, a bear carries instinct a great 
way, and acts more reasonably than many of his betters, who indiscreetly 
venture upon frail projects that will not bear them. 

13th. This being Sunday, we rested from our fatigue, and had leisure to re- 
flect on the signal mercies of Providence. 

The great plenty of meat wherewith Bearskin furnished us in these lonely 
woods made us once more shorten the men's allowance of bread, from five to 
four pounds of biscuit a week. This was the more necessary, because we 
knew not yet how long our business might require us to be out. 

In the afternoon our hunters went forth, and returned triumphantly with 
three brace of wild turkeys. They told us they could see the mountains dis- 
tinctly from every eminence, though the atmosphere was so thick with smoke 
that they appeared at a greater distance than they really were. 

In the evening we examined our friend Bearskin, concerning the religion of 
his country, and he explained it to us, without any of that reserve to which 
his nation is subject. He told us he believed there was one supreme God, 
who had several subaltern deities under him. And that this master God made 
the world a long time ago. That he told the sun, the moon, and stars, their 
business in the beginning, which they, with good looking after, have faithfully 
performed ever since. That the same Pov^-er that made all things at first has 
taken care to keep them in the same method and motion ever since. He be- 
lieved that God had formed many worlds before he formed this, but that those 
worlds either grew old and ruinous, or were destroyed for the dishonesty of 
the inhabitants. That God is very just and very good — ever well pleased with 
those men who possess those god-like qualities. That he takes good people 
into his safe protection, makes them very rich, fills their bellies plentifully, 
preserves them from sickness, and from being surprised or overcome by their 
enemies. But all such as tell lies, and cheat those they have dealings with, 
he never fails to punish with sickness, poverty and hunger, and, after all that, 
suffers them to be knocked on the head and scalped by those that fight against 
them. He believed that after death both good and bad people are conducted 
by a strong guard into a great road, in which departed souls travel together 
for some time, till at a certain distance this road forks into two paths, the one 
extremely level, and the other stony and mountainous. Plere the good are 
parted from the bad by a fiash of lightning, the first being hurried away to 
the right, the other to the left. The right hand road leads to a charming 
warm country, where the spring is everlasting, and every month is May ; and 
as the year is always in its youth, so are the people, and particularly the wo- 
men are bright as stars, and never scold. Tl^t in this happy climate there 
are deer, turkeys, elks, and buffaloes innumerable, perpetually fat and gentle, 
while the trees are loaded with delicious fruit quite throughout the four sea- 
sons. That the soil brings forth corn spontaneously, without the curse of la- 
bour, and so very wholesome, that none who have the happiness to eat of it 
are ever sick, grow old, or die. Near the entrance into this blessed land sits 
a venerable old man on a mat richly woven, who examines strictly all that 
are bi'ought before him, and if they have behaved well, the guards are order- 
ed to open the crystal gate, and let them enter into the land of delight. The 
left hand path is very rugged and uneven, leading to a dark and barren coun- 
try, where it is always winter. The ground is the whole year round covered 



52 THE HISTORY OF 

with snow, and nothing is to be seen upon tlie trees but icicles. All the peo- 
ple are hungry, yet have not a morsel of any thing to eat, except a bitter kind 
of potato, that gives them the dry gripes, and fills their whole body with 
loathsome ulcers, that stink, and are insupportably painful. Here all the wo- 
men are old and ugly, having claws like a panther, with which they fly upon 
the men that slight their passion. For it seems these haggard old furies are 
intolerably fond, and expect a vast deal of cherishing. They talk much, and 
exceedingly shrill, giving exquisite pain to the drum of the ear, which in that 
place of torment is so tender, that every sharp note wounds it to the quick. 
At the end of this path sits a dreadful old woman on a monstrous toad-stool, 
whose head is covered with rattle-snakes instead of tresses, with glaring 
white eyes, that strike a terror unspeakable into all that behold her. This 
hug pronounces sentence of woe upon all the miserable wretches that hold 
up their hands at her tribunal. After this they are delivered over to huge 
turkey-buzzards, like harpies, that fly away with them to the place above 
mentioned. Here, after they have been tormented a certain number of years, 
according to their sev^eral degrees of guilt, they are again driven back into 
this world, to try if t'ley will mend their manners, and merit a place the next 
time in the regions of bliss. This was the substance of Bearskin's religion, 
and was as much to the purpose as could be expected from a mere state of 
nature, without one glimpse of revelation or philosophy.^ It contained, however, 
the three great articles of natural religion : the belief of a God ; the moral 
distinction betwixt good and evil; and the expectation of rewards and 
punishments in another world. Indeed, the Indian notion of a future happi- 
ness is a little gross and sensual, like Mahomet's paradise. But how can it 
be otherwise, in a people that are contented with Nature as they find her, and 
have no other lights but what they receive from purblind tradition ? 

14th. There having been great signs of I'ain yesterday evening, we had 
taken our precautions in securing the bread, and trenching in our tent. The 
men had also stretched their blankets upon poles, pent-house fashion, against 
the weather, so that nobody was taken unprepared. It began to fall heavily 
about three o'clock in the morning, and held not up till near noon. Every 
thing was so thoroughly soaked, that we laid aside all thoughts of decamping 
that day. This gave leisure to tlie most expert of our gunners to go and try 
their fortunes, and they succeeded so well, that they returned about noon 
with three fat deer, and four wild turkeys. Thus Providence took care of us, 
and however short the men might be in their bread, it is certain they had 
meat at full allowance. The cookery went on merrily all night long, to keep 
the damps from entering our pores ; and in truth the impressions of the air 
are much more powerful upon empty stomachs. In such a glut of provisions, 
a true woodsman, when he has nothing else to do, like our honest country- 
men the Indians, keeps eating on, to avoid the imputation of idleness ; though, 
in a scarcity, the Indian will fast with a much better grace than they. They 
can subsist several days upon a little rockahominy, which is parched Indian 
corn reduced to powder. This they moisten in the hollow of their hands 
with a little water, and it is Tiardly credible how small a quantity of it will 
support them. It is true they grow a little lank upon it, but to make them- 
selves feel full, they gird up their loins very tight with a belt, taking up a hole 
every day. With this slender subsistence they are able to travel very long 
journeys; but then, to make themselves amends, when they do meet with 
better cheer, they eat without ceasing, till they have ravehed themselves into 
another famine. 

This was the first time we had ever been detained a whole day in our 
camp by the rain, and therefore had reason to bear it with the more patience. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



53 



The few good husbands amongst us took some thought of their backs as 
well as then- bellies, and made use of this opportunity to put their habiliments 
in repair, which had suffered wofully by the bushes. Tiie horses got some 
rest, by reason of the bad weather, but very little food, the chief cf their 
forage being a little wild rosemary, which resembles the garden rosemary 
pretty much in figure, but not at all in taste or smell. This plant grows in 
small tufts here and there on the barren land in these upper parts, and the 
horses liked it well, but the misfortune was, they could not get enough of it 
to fill their bellies. 

15th, After the clouds broke away in the morning, the people dried their 
blankets with all diligence. Nevertheless, it was noon before we were in con- 
dition to move forward, and then were so puzzled with passing the river 
twice in a small distance, that we could advance the line in all no further than 
one single mile and three hundred poles. The first time we passed the Dan 
this day was two hundred and forty poles from the place where we lay, and 
the second time was one mile and seven poles beyond that. This was now 
the fourth time we forded that fine river, which still tended westerly, with 
many short and returning reaches. 

The surveyors had much difficulty in getting over the river, finding it 
deeper than formerly. The breadth of it here did not exceed fifty yards. 
The banks were about twenty feet high from the water, and beautifully beset 
with canes. Our baggage horses crossed not the river here at all, but, fetch- 
ing a compass, went round the bend of it. On our way we forded Sable 
creek, so called from the dark colour of the water, which happened, I sup- 
pose, by its being shaded on both sides with canes. 

In the evening we quartered in a charming situation near the angle of the 
river, from whence our eyes were carried down both reaches, which kept a 
straight course for a great way together. This prospect was so beautiful, 
that we were perpetually climbing up to a neighbouring eminence, that we 
might enjoy it in more perfection. 

Now the weather grew cool, the wild geese began to direct their flight this 
way from Hudson's bay, and the lakes that lay north-west of us. They are 
very lean at their first coming, but fatten soon upon a sort of grass that 
grows on the shores and rocks of this river. Tfie Indians call this fowl 
cohunks, from the hoarse note it has, and begin the year from the coming of 
the cohunks, which happens in the beginning of October. These wild geese 
are guarded from cold by a down, that is exquisitely soft and fine, which 
makes them much more valuable for their feathers than for their flesh, which 
is dark and coarse. 

The men chased a bear into the river that got safe over, noiwithstanding 
the continual fire from the shore upon him. He seemed to swim but heavily, 
considering it was for his life. Where the water is shallow, it is no uncom- 
mon thing to see a bear sitting, in the summer time, on a heap of gravel in 
the middle of the river, not only to cool himself, but likewise for the advan- 
tage of fishing, particularly for a small shell-fish, that is brought down with the 
stream. In the upper part of James river I have observed this several times, 
and wondered very much, at first, how so many heaps of small stones came to 
be piled up in the water, till at last we spied a bear sitting upon one of them, 
looking with great attention on the stream, and raking up something with his 
paw, which I take to be the shell-fish above mentioned, 

16th. It was ten o'clock this morning before the horses could be found, 
having hidden themselves among the canes, whereof there was great plenty 
just at hand. Not far from our camp we went over a brook, whose banks 
were edged on both sides with these canes. But three miles further we 

H 



54 



THE HISTORY OF 



forded a larger stream, which we called Lowland creek, by reason of the 
great breadth of low grounds inclosed between that and the river. 

The high land we travelled over was very good, and the low grounds pro- 
mised the greatest fertility of any I had ever seen. At the end of four miles 
and three hundred and eleven poles from where we lay, the line intersected 
the Dan the fifth time. We had day enough to carry it farther, but the sur- 
veyors could find no safe ford over the river. This obliged us to ride two 
miles up the river in quest of a ford, and by the way we traversed several 
small Indian fields, where we conjectured the Sawroes had been used to plant 
corn, the town where they had lived lying seven or eight miles more south- 
erly, upon the eastern side of the river. These Indian fields produced a 
sweet kind of grass, almost knee-high, which was excellent forage for the 
horses. It must be observed, by the way, that Indian towns, like religious 
houses, are remarkable for a fruitful situation ; for being by nature not very 
industrious, they choose such a situation as will subsist them with the least 
labour. The trees grew surprisingly large in this low ground, and amongst 
the rest we observed a tall kind of hickory, peculiar to the upper parts of the 
country. It is covered with a very rough bark, and produces a nut with a 
thick shell that is easily broken. The kernel is not so rank as that of the 
common hickory, but altogether as oily. And now I am upon the subject of 
these nuts, it may not be improper to remark, that a very great benefit might 
be made of nut-oil in this colony. The walnuts, the hickory-nuts, and pig- 
nuts, contain a vast deal of oil, that might be pressed out in great abundance 
with proper machines. The trees grow very kindly, and may be easily 
propagated. They bear plenty of nuts every year, that are now of no other 
use in the world but to feed hogs. It is certain there is a large consumption 
of this oil in several of our manufactures, and in some parts of France, as 
well as in other countries, it is eaten instead of oil-olive, being tolerably sweet 
and wholesome. The Indian killed a fat buck, and the men brought in four 
bears and a brace of wild turkeys, so that this was truly a land of plenty, 
both for man and beast. 

17th. We detached a party of men this morning early in search of a 
ford, who after all could find none that was safe ; though, dangerous as it was, 
we determined to make use of it, to avoid all further delay. Accordingly 
we rode over a narrow ledge of rocks, some of which lay below the surface 
of the v/ater, and some above it. Those that lay under the water were as 
slippery as ice ; and the current glided over them so swifty, that though it 
was only water, it made us perfectly drunk. Yet we were all so fortunate 
as to get safe over to the west shore, with no other damage than the sopping 
some of our bread by the flouncing of the horses. The tedious time spent 
in finding out this ford, and in getting all the horses over it, prevented our 
carrying the line more than two miles and two hundred and fifty poles. 
This was the last time we crossed the Dan with our line, which now began 
to run away more southerly, with a very flush and plentiful stream, the de- 
scription whereof must be left to future discoveries, though we are well 
assured by the Indians that it runs through the mountains. We conducted 
the baggage a roundabout way for the benefit of evener grounds, and this 
carried us over a broad level of exceeding rich land, full of large trees, with 
vines married to them, if I may be allowed to speak so poetically. We 
untreed a young cub in our march, that made a brave stand against one of 
the beifst of our dogs. This and a fawn were all the game that came in our 
way. In this day's journey, as in many others before, we saw beautiful 
marble of several colours, and particularly that of the purple kind with white 
streaks, and in some places we came across large pieces of pure alabaster. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



65 



We marked out our quarters on the banks of a purling stream, which we 
called Cascade creek, by reason of the multitude of water-falls that are in it. 
But, different from all other falls that ever I met with, the rocks over which 
the water rolled were soft, and would split easily into broad flakes, very pro- 
per for pavement ; and some fragments of it seemed soft enough for hones, 
and the grain fine enough. Near our camp we found a prickly shrub, rising 
about a foot from the ground, something like that which bears the barberry, 
though much smaller. The leaves had a fresh, agreeable smell, and I am 
persuaded the ladies would be apt to fancy a tea made of them, provided they 
were told how far it came, and at the same time were obliged to buy it very 
dear. About a mile to the south-west of our camp rose a regular mount, that 
commanded a full prospect of the mountains, and an extensive view of the 
flat country. But being, with respect to the high mountains, no more than a 
pimple, we called it by that name. Presently after sunset we discovered a 
great light towards the west, too bright for a fire, and more resembling the 
aurora borealis. This, all our woodsmen told us, was a comm.on appear- 
ance in the high lands, and generally foreboded bad weather. Their explana- 
tion happened to be exactly true, for in the night we had a violent gale of wind, 
accompanied with smart hail, that rattled frightfully amongst the trees, though 
it was not large enough to do us any harm. 

We crossed Cascade creek over a ledge of smooth rocks, and then scuffled 
through a mighty thicket, at least three miles long. The whole was one 
continued tract of rich high land, the woods whereof had been burnt not long 
before. It was then overgrown with saplings of oak, hickory and locust, 
interlaced with grape vines. In this fine land, however, we met with no water, 
till at the end of three miles we luckily came upon a crystal stream, which, 
like some lovers of conversation, discovered every thing committed to its faith- 
less bosom. Then we came upon a piece of rich low ground, covered with large 
trees, of the extent of half a mile, which made us fancy ourselves not far 
from the river ; though after that we ascended gently to higher land, with no 
other trees growing upon it except butter-wood, which is one species of white 
maple. This being a dead level, without the least declivity to carry off the 
water, was moist in many places, and produced abundance of grass. All 
our woodsmen call these flat grounds high land ponds, and in their trading 
journeys are glad to halt at such places for several days together, to recruit 
their jaded horses, especially in the winter months, when there is little or no 
grass to be found in other places. This high land pond extended above two 
miles, our palfries snatching greedily at the tufts of grass, as they went along. 
After we got over this level, we descended some stony hills for about half a 
mile, and then came upon a large branch of the river, which we christened 
the Irvin, in honour of our learned professor. This river we forded with much 
difficulty and some danger, by reason of the hollow spaces betwixt the 
rocks, into which our horses plunged almost every step. The Irvin runs into 
the Dan about four miles to the southward of the line, and seemed to roll 
down its waters from the N. N. W. in a veiy full and limpid stream, and the 
murmur it made, in tumbling over the rocks, caused the situation to appear very 
romantic, and had aliirostmade some of the company poetical, though they drank 
nothing but water. We encamped on a pleaspnt hill, overlooking the river, 
which seemed to be deep every where except ju.st where we forded. In the 
mean time, neither that chain of rocks, nor any other that we could observe 
in this stream, was so uninterrupted, but that there were several breaks where 
a canoe, or even a moderate flat-bottomed boat, miglit shear clear. Nor 
have we reason to believe there are any other falls (except the great ones, 
thirty miles below Moniseep ford) that reach quite aci'oss, so as to interrupt 
the navigation for small cmft, Ami I have been informoil that, even at those 



56 THE HISTORY OF 

great falls, the blowing up a few rocks would open a passage at least for 
canoes, which certainly would be an unspeakable convenience to the inhabit- 
ants of all that beautiful part of the country. The Indian killed a very fat 
doe, and came across a bear, which had been put to death and was half devour- 
ed by a panther. The last of these brutes reigns absolute monarch of the 
woods, and in the keenness of his hunger will venture to attack a bear; 
though then it is ever by surprise, as all beasts of the cat kind use to come 
upon their prey. Their play is to take the poor bears napping, they being very 
drowsy animals, and though they be exceedingly strong, yet their strength is 
heavy, while the panthers are too nimble and cunning to trust themselves 
within their hug. As formidable as this beast is to his fellow brutes, he never 
has the confidence to venture upon a man, but retires from him with great 
respect, if there be a way open for his escape. However, it must be confest, 
his voice is a Uttle contemptible for a monarch of the forest, being not a great 
deal louder nor more awful than the mewing of a household cat* 

In South Carolina they call this beast a tiger, though improperly, and so 
they do in some parts of the Spanish West Indies. Some of their authors, a 
little more properly, compliment it with the name of a leopard. But none of 
these are the growth of America, that we know of 

The whole distance the surveyors advanced the line this day amounted 
to six miles and thirty poles, which was no small journey, considering the 
grounds we had traversed were exceedingly rough and uneven, and in many 
places intolerably entangled with bushes. All the hills we ascended were 
encumbered with stones, many of which seemed to contain a metallic sub- 
stance, and the valleys we crossed were interrupted with miry branches. 
From the top of every hill we could discern distinctly, at a great distance 
to the northward, three or four ledges of mountains, rising one above 
another; and on the highest of all rose a single mountain, very much resem- 
bling a woman's breast. 

19th. About four miles beyond the river Irvin, we forded Matrimony creek, 
called so by an unfortunate married man, because it was exceedingly noisy 
and impetuous. However, though the stream was clamorous, yet, like those 
women who make themselves plainest heard, it was likewise perfectly clear 
and unsullied. Still half a mile further we saw a small mountain, about 
five miles to the north-west of us, which we called the Wart, because it ap- 
peared no bigger than a wart, in comparison of the great mountains which 
hid their haughty heads in the clouds. We were not able to extend the line 
farther than five miles and one hundred and thirty five poles, notwithstanding 
we began our march early in the morning, and did not encamp till it was almost 
dark. We made it the later by endeavouring to quarter in some convenient 
situation, either for grass or canes. But night surprising us, we were obliged 
to lodge at last upon high and uneven ground, which was so overgrown 
with shrubs and saplings, that we could hardly see ten yards around us. The 
most melancholy part of the story was, that our horses had short commons. 
The poor creatures were now grown so weak that they staggered when we 
mounted them. Nor would our own fare have been at all more plentiful, 
had we not been so provident as to carry a load of meat along with us. 
Indeed, the woods were too thick to show us any sort of game but one wild 
turkey, which helped to enrich our soup. To make us amends', we found 

* Some authors, who have given an account of the southern continent of America, 
would make the world believe there are lions ; but in all likelihood they were mistaken, 
imagining these panthers to be Jions. What makes this probable is, that the northern 
and southern parts of America being joined by the Isthmus of Darien, if there were 
lions in either they would find their way into the other, the latitudes of each being 
equally proper for that generous animal. 



THE DIViI)l>^G r.INE 57 

abundance of very sweet grapes, which, with the help of bread, might have 
furnished out a good Italian repast, in the absence of more savoury food. 
The men's mouths watered at the sight of a prodigious flight of wild pigeons, 
which flew high over our heads to the southward. The flocks of these birds 
of passage are so amazingly great, sometimes, that they darken the sky ; 
nor is it uncommon for them to light in such numbers in the larger limbs of 
mulberry trees and oaks as to break them dovv^n. In their travels they make 
vast havoc amongst the acorns and berries of all sorts, that they waste whole 
forests in a short time, and leave a famine behind them for most other crea- 
tures; and under some trees where they light, it is no strange thing to find the 
ground covered three inches thick with their dung. These wild pigeons 
commonly breed in the uninhabited parts of Canada, and as the cold ap- 
proaches assemble their armies and bend their course southerly, shifting their 
quarters, like many of the winged kind, according to the season. But the 
most remarkable thing in their flight, as we are told, is that they never have 
been observed to return to the northern countries the same way they came 
from thence, but take quite another route, I suppose for their better subsist- 
ence. In these long flights they are very lean, and their flesh is far from being 
white or tender, though good enough upon a march, when hunger is the 
sauce, and makes it go down better than truffles and morels would do. 

20th. It was now Sunday, which we had like to have spent in fasting as 
well as prayer ; for our men, taking no care for the morrow, like good Chris- 
tians, but bad travellers, had improvidently devoured all their meat for sup- 
per. They were ordered in the morning to drive up their horses, lest they 
should stray too far from the camp and be lost, in case they were let alone 
all day. At their return they had the very great comfort to behold a 
monstrous fat bear, which the Indian had killed very seasonably for their 
breakfast. We thought it still necessary to make another reduction of our 
bread, from four to three pounds a week to every man, computing that we 
had still enough in that proportion to last us three weeks longer. The at- 
mosphere was so smoky all round us, that the mountains were again grown 
invisible. This happened not from the haziness of the sky, but from the 
firing of the woods by the Indians, for we were now near the route the 
the northern savages take when they go out to war against the Catawbas 
and other southern nations. On their way the fires they make in 
their camps are left burning, which, catching the dry leaves that lie near, 
soon put the adjacent woods into a flame. Some of our men in search 
of their horses discovered one of those Indian camps, where not long 
before they had been a furring and dressing their skins. And now I mention 
the northern Indians, it may not be improper to take notice of their implaca- 
ble hatred to those of the south. Their wars are everlasting, without any 
peace, enmity being the only inheritance among them that descends from 
father to son, and either party will march a thousand miles to take their 
revenge upon such hereditary enemies. These long expeditions are com- 
monly carried on in the following manner ; some Indian, remarkable for his 
prowess, that has raised himself to the reputation of a war captain, declares 
his intention of paying a visit to some southern nation ; hereupon as many 
of the young fellows as have either a strong thirst of blood or glory, list 
themselves under his command. With these volunteers he goes from one 
confederate town to another, listing all the rabble he can, till he has gathered 
together a competent number for mischief Their arms are a gun and toma- 
hawk, and all the provisions they carry from home is a pouch of rocka- 
hominy. Thus provided and accoutred, they march towards their enemy's 
country, not in a body, or by a certain path, but straggling in small numbers, 
for the greater convenience of hunting and passing along undiscovered. 



58 THE; HLSTOKY OF 

So soon as tliey approach the grounds on which the enemy is used to hunt, 
they never kindle any fire themselves, for fear of being found out by the 
smoke, nor will they shoot at any kind of game, though they should be half 
famished, lest they might alarm their foes, and put them upon their guard. 
Sometimes indeed, while they are still at some distance, they roast either 
venison or bear, till it is very dry, and then having strung it on their belts, 
wear it round tlieir middle, eating very sparingly of it, because they know 
not when they shall meet with a fresh supply. But coming nearer, they begin 
to look all round the hemisphere, to watch if any smoke ascends, and listen 
continually for the report of guns, in order to make some happy discovery 
for their own advahtage. It is amazing to see their sagacity in discerning 
the track of a human foot, even amongst dry leaves, which to our shorter 
sight is quite undiscoverable. If by one or more of those signs they be 
able to find out the camp of any southern Indians, they squat down in some 
thicket, and keep themselves hush and snug till it is dark; then creeping up 
softly, they approach near enough to observe all the motions of the enemy. 
And about two o'clock in the morning, when they conceive them to be in a 
profound sleep, for they never keep watch and ward, pour in a volley upon 
them, each singling out his man. The moment they have discharged their 
pieces, they rush in with their tomahawks, and make sure work of all that 
are disabled. Sometimes, when they find the enemy asleep round their little 
fire, they first pelt them with little stones to wake them, and when they get 
up, fire in upon them, being in that posture a better mark than when prostrate 
on the ground. Those that are killed of the enemy, or disabled, they scalp, 
that is, they cut the skin all round the head just laelow the hair, and then 
clapping their feet to tjie poor mortals' shoulders, pull the scalp off clean, and 
carry it home in triumph, being as proud of those trophies, as the Jews used 
to be of the foreskins of the Philistines. This way of scalping was practised 
by the ancient Scythians, who used these hairy scalps as towels at home, and 
trappings for their horses when they went abroad. They also made cups 
of tlieir enemies' skulls, in which they drank prosperity to their country, and 
confusion to all their foes. The prisoners they happen to take alive in these 
expeditions generally pass their time very scurvily. They put them to all 
the tortures that ingenious malice and cruelty can invent. And (what shows 
the baseness of the Indian temper in perfection) they never fail to treat those 
with greatest inhumanity that have distinguished themselves most by their 
bravery ; and, if he be a war captain, they do him the honour to roast him 
alive, and distribute a collop to all that had a share in stealing the victory.* 

They are very cunning in finding out new ways to torment their unhappy 
captives, though, like those of hell, their visual method is by fire. Sometimes they 
barbacue them over live coals, taking them off every now and then, to pro- 
long their misery ; at other times they will stick sharp pieces of lightwood 
all over their bodies, and setting them on fire, let them burn down into the 
flesh to the very bone. And when they take a stout fellow, that they believe 
able to endure a great deal, tiiey will tear all the flesh off his bones with red 
hot pincers. While these and such like barbarities are practising, the victors 
are so far from being touched with tenderness and compassion, that they 

* Thouj^h who can reproach the poor Indians for this, when Homer makes his celebraftd 
hero, Achilles, drag the body of Hector at the tail of his chariot, for having fought 
gallantly in defence of his country. Nor was Alexander the Gieat, with all his famed 
generosity, less inhuman to the brave Tyrians, two thousand of whom he ordered to be cru- 
cified in cold blood, for no other fault but for having defended their city most courageously 
against him.durinj a siege of seven months. And what was still more brutal, he dragged 

alive at the tail of his chariot, through ail the streets, for defending the town with so 

much vigour. 



THE DlVIUh\(; LIAK. 59 

dance and sing round these wretched mortals, showing all the marks of 
pleasure and jollity. And if such cruelties happen to be executed in their 
towns, they employ their children in tormenting the prisoners, in order to 
extinguish in them betimes all sentiments of humanity. In the mean time, 
while these poor wretches are under the anguish of all this inhuman treat- 
ment, they disdain so much as to groan, sigh, or show the least sign of dismay 
or concern, so much as in their looks ; on the contrary', they make it a point 
of honour all the time to soften their features, and look as pleased as if they 
were in the actual enjoyment of some delight ; and if they never sang before 
in their lives, they will be sure to be melodious on this sad and dismal occa- 
sion. So prodigious a degree of passive valour in the Indians is the more to 
be wondered at, because in all articles of danger they are apt to behave like 
cowards. And what is still more surprising, the very women discover, on 
such occasions, as great fortitude and contempt, both of pain and death, as 
the gallantest of their men can do. 

21st. The apprehensions we had of losing the horses in these copse woods 
were too well founded, nor were the precautions we used yesterday of 
driving them up sufficient to prevent their straying away afterwards, not- 
withstanding they were securely liobbled. We therefore ordered the men 
out early this morning to look diligently for them, but it was late before any 
could be found. It seems they had straggled in quest of forage, and, besides 
all that, the bushes grew thick enough to conceal them from being seen at 
the smallest distance. One of the people was so bewildered in search of his 
horse, that he lost himself, being no great forester. However, because we 
were willing to save time, we left two of our most expert woodsmen behind 
to beat all the adjacent woods in quest of him. 

In the mean while the surveyors proceeded vigorously on their business, 
but were so perplexed with thickets at their first setting off, that their pro- 
gress was much retarded. They were no sooner over that difficulty, but 
they were obliged to encounter another. The rest of their day's work lay 
over verj^ sharp hills, where the dry leaves were so slippery that there was 
hardly any hold for their feet. Such rubs as these prevented them from 
measuring more than four miles and two hundred and seventy poles. Upon 
the sides of these hills the soil was rich, though full of stones, and the trees 
reasonably large. 

The smoke continued still to veil the mountains from our sight, which 
made us long for rain, or a brisk gale of wind, to disperse it. Nor was the 
loss of this wild prospect all our concern, but we were apprehensive lest the 
woods should be burnt in the course of our line before us, or happen to take 
fire behind us, either of which would effectually have starved the horses, and 
made us all foot soldiers. But we were so happy, thank God ! as to escape 
this misfortune in every part of our progress. We were exceedingly uneasy 
about our lost man, knowing he had taken no provision of any kind, nor was 
it much advantage towards his support, that he had taken his gvm along with 
him, because he had rarely been guilty of putting any thing to death. He 
had unluckily wandered from the camp several miles, and after steering 
sundry unsuccessful courses, in order to leturn, either to us or to the line, 
was at length so tired he could go no farther. In this distress he sat himself 
down under a tree, to recruit his jaded spirit, and at the same time indulge a 
few melancholy reflections. Famine was the first phantom that apjieared to 
him, and wasihe more frightful, because he fancied himself not quite bear 
enough to subsist long upon licking his paws. In the mean time the two 
persons we had sent after him hunted diligently great part of the day with- 
out coming upon his track. They fired their pieces towards every point of 
the compass, but could perceive no firing in return. However, advancing a 



60 THE HISTORY OF 

little farther, at last they made a lucky shot, that our straggler had the good 
fortune to hear, and he returning the salute, they soon found each other with 
no small satisfaction. But though they lighted on the man, they could by no 
means light on his horse, and therefore he was obliged to be a foot soldier 
all the rest of the journey. Our Indian shot a bear so prodigiously fat, that 
there was no way to kill him but by firing in at his ear. The fore part of the 
skull of that animal being guarded by a double bone, is hardly penetrable, 
and when it is very fat, a bullet aimed at his body is apt to lose its force, be- 
fore it reaches the vitals. This animal is of the dog kind, and our Indians, as 
well as woodsmen, are as fond of its flesh as the Chinese can be of that of 
the common hound. 

22d. Early in the morning we sent back two men to make further search 
for the horse that was strayed away. We were unwilling the poor man 
should sustain such a damage as would eat out a large part of his pay, or 
that the public should be at the expense of reimbursing him for it. These 
foresters hunted all over the neighbouring woods, and took as much pains as 
if the horse had been their own property, but all their diligence was to no 
purpose. The surveyors, in the mean time, being fearful of leaving these 
men too far behind, advanced the line no farther than one mile and two hun- 
dred and thirty poles. As we rode along we found no less than three bears 
and a fat doe, that our Indian, who went out before us, had thrown in our 
course, and we were very glad to pick them up. About a mile from the 
camp we crossed Miry creek, so called because several of the horses were 
mired in' its branches. About two hundred and thirty poles beyond that, the 
line intersected another river, that seemed to be a branch of the Irvin, to 
which we gave the name of the Mayo, in complement to the other of our 
surveyors. It was about fifty yards wide where we forded it, being just 
below a ledge of rocks, which reached across the river, and made a natural 
cascade. Our horses could hardly keep their feet over these slippery rocks, 
which gave some of their riders no small palpitation. This river forks about 
a quarter of a mile below the ford, and has some scattering canes growing 
near the mouth of it. We pitched our tent on the western banks of the 
Mayo, for the pleasure of being lulled to sleep by the cascade. Here our 
hunters had leisure to go out and try their fortunes, and returned loaded 
with spoil. They brought in no less than six bears, exceedingly fat, so that 
the frying pan had no rest all night. We had now the opportunity of trying 
the speed of this lumpish animal by a fair course it had with the nimblest 
of our surveyors. A cub of a year old will run very fast, because, being 
upon his growth, he is never encumbered with too much fat ; but the old 
ones are more sluggish and unwieldy, especially when mast is plenty. Then 
their nimblest gait is only a heavy gallop, and their motion is still slower 
down hill, where they are obliged to sidle along very awkwardly, to keep 
their lights from rising up into their throat. These beasts always endeavour to 
avoid a man, except they are wounded, or happen to be engaged in the pro- 
tection of their cubs. By the force of these instincts and that of self preserv- 
ation, they will now and then throw off all reverence for their Maker's 
image. For that reason, excess of hunger will provoke them to the same 
desperate attack, for the support of their being, A memorable instance of 
the last case is said to have happened not long ago in New England, where a 
bear assaulted a man just by his own door, and rearing himself upon his 
haunches, offered to take him lovingly into his hug. But the man's wife ob- 
serving the danger her husband was in, had the courage to run behind the 
bear, and thrust her two thumbs into his eyes. This made Bruin quit the 
man, and turn short upon the woman to take his revenge, but she had the 
presence of mind to spring back with more than female agility, and so both 
their lives were preser\ ed. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 61 

23d. At the distance of sixty-two poles from where we lay, we crossed 
the south brancli of what we took for the Irvin, nor was It without difficulty 
we got over, though it happened to be without damage. Great part of the 
way after that was mountainous, so that we were no sooner got down one 
hiiJ, but we were obliged to climb up another. Only for the last mile of our 
stage, we enpountered a locust thicket that was level, but interlaced terribly 
with briers and grape vines. We forded a large creek, no less than five 
times, ti)e banks of which were so steep that we were forced to cut them 
down with a hoe. We gave it the name of Crooked creek, because of its 
meanders. The sides of it were planted with shrub-canes, extremely inviting 
to the horses, which were now quite jaded with clambering up so many pre- 
cipices, and tugging through so many dismal thickets, notwithstanding which 
we pushed the line this day four miles sixty-nine poles. The men were so 
unthrifty this morning as to bring but a small portion of their abundaiace 
along with them. This was the more unlucky, because we could discover 
no sort of game the whole livelong day. Woodsmen are certainly good 
Christians in one respect, at least, that they always leave the morrow to care 
for itself; though for that very reason they ought to pray more fervently for 
their daily bread than most of them remember to do. 

The mountains were still concealed from our eyes by a cloud of smoke. 
As we went along we were alarmed at the sight of a great fire, which showed 
itself to the northward. This made our small corps march in closer order 
than we used to do, lest perchance we might be waylaid by Indians. It 
, made us look out sharp to see if we could discover any track or other token 
of these insidious foresters, but found none. In the mean time we came 
often upon the track of bears, which cannot without some skill be distin- 
guished from that of human creatures, made with naked feet. And indeed a 
young woodsman would be puzzled to find out the difference, which consists 
principally in a bear's paws being something smaller than a man's foot, and 
in its leaving sometimes the mark of its claws in the inipression made upon 
the ground. 

The soil, where the locust thicket grew, was exceedingly rich, as it con- 
stantly is, where that kind of tree is naturally and largely produced. But 
the desolation made there lately, either by fire or caterpillars, had been so 
general, that we could not .see a tree of any bigness standing within our pros- 
pect. And the reason why a fi.re makes such a havoc in these lonely parts is 
this. The woods are not there burnt every year, as they generally are am.ongst 
the inhabitants. But the dead leaves and trash of many years are heaped 
up together, which being at length kindled by the Indians that happen to pass 
that way, furnish fuel for a conflagration that carries all before it. There 
is a beautiful range of hills, as level as a terrace-walk, that overlooks the 
valley through which Crooked creek conveys its spiral stream. This tenace 
runs pretty near east and wcs', about two miles south of the fine., and is 
almost parallel with it. The horses had been too much harassed to permit 
us to ride at all out of our way, for the pleasure of any prospect, or the 
gratification of any curiosity. This confined us to the narrow sphere of our 
business, and is at the same time a just excuse for not animating our story 
with greater variety. 

24th. The surveyors went out the sooner this morning, by reason the men 
lost very little time in cooking their breakfast. They had made but a spare 
meal over night, leaving nothing but the hide of a bear for the m.orrow. 
Some of the keenest of them got up at midnight to cook that nice morsel after 
the Indian manner. They first singed the hair clean off, that none of it might 
stick in their throats ; then they boiled the pelt into soup, which had a stratum 

I 



62 



THE HISTORY OF 



of grease swimming upon it full half an inch thick. However, they commend- 
ed this dish extremely ; though I believe the praises they gave it were more 
owing to their good stomach than to their good taste. The line was extended 
six miles and three hundred poles, and in that distance crossed Crooked creek 
at least eight times more. We were forced to- scuffle through a thiclvet about 
two miles in breadth, planted with locusts and hickory saplings, as close as 
they could stand together. Amongst these there was hardly a tree of tolera- 
ble growth within view. It was a dead plane of several miles extent, and 
very fertile soil. Beyond that the woods were open for about three miles, but 
mountainous. All the rest of our day's journey was pestered with bushes 
and grape vines, in the thickest of which we were obliged to take up our 
quarters, near one of the branches of Crooked creek. This night it was the 
men's good fortune to fare very sumptuously. The Indian had killed two 
large bears, the fattest of which he had taken napping. One of the people 
too shot a rackoon, which is also of the dog kind, and as big as a small fox, 
though its legs are shorter, and v.-hen fat has a much higher relish than either 
mutton or kid. It is naturally not carnivorous, but very fond of Indian corn 
and persimmons. The fat of this animal 'is reckoned very good to assuage 
swellings and inflammations. Some old maids are at the trouble of breeding 
them up tame, for the pleasure of seeing them play over as many humorous 
tricks as a monkey. It climbs up small trees, like a bear, by embracing the 
bodies of them. Till this night we had accustomed ourselves to go to bed 
in our night-gowns, believing we should thereby be better secured from the 
cold : but upon trial found we lay much warmer by stripping to our shirts, 
and spreading our gowns over us. A true woodsman, if he have no more 
than a single blanket, constantly pulls all off, and, lying on one part of it, 
draws the other over him, believing it much more refreshing to lie so, than in 
his clothes ; and if he find himself not warm enough, shifts his lodging to 
leeward of the fire, in which situation the smoke will drive over him, and 
effectually correct the cold dews, that would otherwise descend upon his 
person, perhaps to his great damage. 

25th, The air clearing up this morning, we were again agreeably sur- 
prised with a full prospect of the mountains. They discovered themselves 
both to the north and south of us, on either side, not distant above ten miles, 
according to our best computation. We'could now see those to the north 
rise in four distinct ledges, one above another, but those to the south formed 
only a single ledge, and that broken and interrupted in many places ; or ra- 
ther they were only single mountains detached from each other. One of the 
southern mountains was so vastly high, it seemed to hide its head in the 
clouds, and the west end of it terminated in a horrible precipice, that we 
called the Despairing Lover's Leap. The next to it, towards the east, was 
lower, except at one end, where it heaved itself up in the form of a vast 
stack of chimneys. The course of the northern mountains seemed to tend 
west-south-west, and those to the southward very near west. We could 
descry othgr mountains ahead of us, exactly in the course of the line, though 
at a much greater distance. In this point of view, the ledges on the right 
and left both seemed to close, and form a natural amphitheatre. Thus it 
was our fortune to be wedged in betwixt these two ranges of mountains, in- 
somuch that if our line had run ten miles on either side, it had butted before 
this day either upon one or the other, both of them now stretching away 
plainly to the eastvs^ard of us. It had rained a little in the night, which dis- 
persed the smoke and opened this romantic scene to us all at once, though it 
was again hid froin our eyes as we moved forwards, by the rough woods we 
had the misfortune to be engaged with. The bushes were so thick for near 
four miles together, that they tore the deer skins to pieces that guarded the 



THE DIVIDING LINE. gg 

bread bags. Though, as rough as the woods were, the soil was extremely 
good all the way, being washed down from the neighbouring hills into the 
plain country. Notwithstanding all these difficulties, the surveyors drove 
on the line four miles and two hundred and five poles. 

In the mean time we were so unlucky as to meet with no sort of game 
the whole day, so that the men were obliged to make a frugal distribution of 
what little they left in the morning. We encamped upon a small rill, where 
the horses came off as temperately as their masters. They were by this 
time grown so thin, by hard travel and spare feeding, that henceforth, in pure 
compassion, we chose to perform the greater part of the journey on foot. 
And as our baggage was by this time grown much lighter, we divided it, 
after the best manner, so that every horse's load might be proportioned to the 
strength he had left. Though, after all the prudent measures we could take, 
• we perceived the hills began to rise upon us so fast in our front, that it would 
be impossible for us to proceed much farther. 

We saw very few squirrels in the upper parts, because the wild cats de- 
vour them unmercifully. Of these there are four kinds : the fox squirrel, the 
gray, the Hying, and the ground squirrel. These last resemble a rat in every 
thing but the tail, and the black and russet streaks that run down the length 
of their little bodies. 

26th. We found our way grow still more mountainous, after extending 
the line three hundred poles farther. We came then to a rivulet that ran 
with a swift current towards the south. This we fancied to be another 
branch of the Irvin, though some of the men, who had been Indian traders, 
judged it rather to be the head of Deep i"iver, that discharges its stream into 
that of Pee Dee ; but this seemed a wild conjecture. The hills beyond that 
river were exceedingly lofty, and not to be attempted by our jaded palfreys, 
which could now hardly drag their legs after them upon level ground. Be- 
sides, the bread began to grow scanty, and the winter season to advance 
apace upon us. We had likewise reason to apprehend the consequences of 
being intercepted by deep snows, and the swelling of the many waters 
between us and home. The first of these misfortunes would starve all our 
horses, and the other ourselves, b}'- cutting off our retreat, and obliging us to 
winter in those desolate woods. These considerations determined us to stop 
short here, and push our adventures no farther. The last tree we marked 
was a red oak, growing on the bank of the river ; and to make the place 
more remarkable, we blazed all the trees around it. 

We found the whole distance, from Coratuck inlet to the rivulet where we 
left off, to be, in a straight line, two hundred and forty-one miles and two 
hundred and thirty poles. And from the place where the Carolina commis- 
sioners deserted us, seventy-two miles and three hundred and two poles. 
This last part of the journey was generally very hilly, or else grown up with 
troublesome thickets and underwoods, all which our Carolina friends had the 
discretion to avoid. We encamped in a dirty valley near the rivulet above- 
mentioned, for the advantage of the canes, and so sacrificed our own conve- 
nience to that of ovir horses. There was a small mountain half a mile to 
the northward of us, which we had the curiosity to climb up in the afternoon, 
in order to enlarge our prospect. From thence we were able to discover 
where the two ledges of mountains closed, as near as we could guess, about 
thirty miles to the west of us, and lamented that our present circumstances 
would not permit ns'Vto advance the line to that place, which the hand of Na- 
ture had made so very remarkable. 

Not far from our quarters one of the men picked up a pair of elk's horns, 
not very large, and discovered the track of the elk that had shed them. It 
was rare to find any tokens of those animals so far to the south, because 



g^ THE HISTOilY OF 

they keep commonly to the northward of thirty-seven degrees, as the buffa- 
loes, for tlie most part, confine themselves to the southward of that latitude. 
The elk is full as big as a horse, and of the deer kind. The stags only have 
horns, and those exceedingly large and spreading. Their colour is some- 
thing lighter than that of the red deer, and their flesh tougher. Their swift- 
est speed is a large trot, and in that motion they turn their horns back upon 
their necks, and cock their noses aloft in the air. Nature'has taught them 
this attitude to save their antlers from being entangled in the thickets, which 
they always retire to. They are very shy, and have the sense of smelling so 
exquisite that they wind a man at a great distance. For this reason they are 
seldom seen but when the air is moist, in which case their smell is not so 
nice. They commonly herd together, and the Indians say, if one of the 
drove happen by some wound to be disabled from making his escape, the 
rest will forsake their fears to defend their friend, which they will do with 
great obstinacy, till they are killed upon the spot. Though, otherwise, they 
are so alarmed at the sight of a man, that to avoid him they will sometimes 
throw themselves down very high precipices into the river. 

A misadventure happened here, which gave us no small perplexity. One 
of the commissioners was so unlucky as to bruise his foot against a stump, 
which brought on a formal fit of the gout. It must be owned there could 
not be a more unseasonable time, nor a more improper situation, for any one 
to be attacked by that cruel distemper. . The joint was so inflamed that he 
could neither draw shoe nor boot upon it ; and to ride without either would 
have exposed him to so many rude knocks and bruises, in those rough woods, 
as to be intolerable even to a stoic. It was happy, indeed, that we were to 
rest here the next day, being Sunday, that there might be leisure for trying 
some speedy remedy. Accordingly he was persuaded to bathe his foot in 
cold water, in order to repel the humour and assuage the inflammation. This 
made it less painful, and gave us hopes, too, of reducing the swelling in a 
short time. 

Our men had the fortune to kill a brace of bears, a fat buck, and a wild 
turkey, all which paid them with interest for yesterday's abstinence. This 
constant and seasonable supply of our daily wants made us reflect thankfully 
on the bounty of Providence. And that we might not be unmindful of being 
all along fed by Heaven in this great and solitary wilderness, we agreed to 
wear in our hats the maosti, which is, in Indian, the beard of a wild turkey- 
cock, and on our breasts the figure of that fowl with its wings extended, and 
holding in its claws a scroll, with this motto, " Vice coturnicum,'''' meaning that 
we had been supported by them in the wilderness in the room of quails. 

27th. This being Sunday we weremot wanting in our thanks to Heaven 
for the constant support and protection we had been favoured with. Nor 
did our chaplain fail to put us in mind of our duty by a sermon proper for 
the occasion. We ordered a strict inquiry to be made into the quantity of 
bread we had left, and found no more than would subsist us a fortnight at 
short allowance. We made a fair distribution of our whole stock, and at 
the same time recommended to the men to manage this, their last stake, to the 
best advantage, not knowing how long they would be obliged to live upon it. 
We likewise directed them to keep a watchful eye upon their horses, that 
none of them might be missing the next morning, to hinder our return. 
There fell some rain before noon, which made our camp more a bog than it 
was before. This moist situation began to infect some of the men with fevers, 
and some with fluxes, which however we soon removed with Peruvian bark 
and ipocoacanah. In the afternoon we marched up again to the top of 
the hill to entertain our eyes a second time with the view of the mountains, 
but a perverse fog arose that hid them from our sight. In the evening we 



THE DIVIUING LINE Q5 

deliberated which way it might be most proper to return. We had at first 
intended to cross over at the foot of the mountains to the head of James 
river, that we might be able to describe that natural boundary so far. But, 
on second thoughts, we found many good reasons against that laudable de- 
sign, such as the weakness of our horses, the scantiness of our bread, and the 
near approach of winter. We had cau.se to believe the way might be full 
of hDls, and the farther we went towards the north, the more danger there 
would be of snow. Such considerations as these determined us at last to 
make the best of our way back upon the line, which was the straightest, and 
consequently the shortest way to the inhabitants. We knew the worst of 
our course, and were sure of a beaten path all the way, while we were totally 
ignorant what difficulties and dangers the other course might be attended 
with. So prudence got the better for once of curiosity, and the itch for 
new discoveries gave place to self-preservation. Our inclination was the 
stronger to cross over according to the course of the mountains, that we 
might find out whether James river and Appomattox river head there, or 
run quite through them. It is certain that Potomac passes in a large stream 
through the main ledge, and then divides itself into two considerable I'ivers. 
That which stretches away to the northward is called Cohungaroota,* and 
that which flows to the south-west, hath the name of Sharantow. The course 
of this last stream is near parrallel to the Blue Ridge of mountains, at the dis- 
tance only of about three or four miles. ^ Though how far it may continue 
that course has not yet been sufficiently discovered, but some woodsmen pre- 
tend to say it runs as far as the source of Roanoke ; nay, they are so very 
particular as to tell us that Roanoke, Sharantow, and another wide branch of 
Mississippi, all head in one and the same mountain. What dependence there 
may be upon this conjectural geography, I will not pretend to say, though it is 
certain that Sharantow keeps close to the mountains, as far as we are 
acquainted with its tendency. We are likewise assured that the south branch 
of James river, within less than twenty miles ea.st of the main ledge, makes 
an elbow, and runs due south-west, which is parallel with the mountains on 
this side. But how far it stretches that way, before it returns, is not yet cer- 
tainly known, no more than where it takes its rise. 

In the mean time it is strange that our woodsmen have not had curiosity 
enough to inform themselves more exactly of these particulars, and it is 
stranger still that the government has never thought it worth the expense of 
making an accurate survey of the mountains, that we might be masters of 
that natural fortification before the French, who in some places have settle- 
ments not very distant from it. It therefore concerns his majesty's service 
very nearly, and the safety of his subjects in this part of the world, to take 
possession of so important a barrier in time, lest our good friends, the French, 
and the Indians, through their means, prove a perpetual annoyance to these 
colonies. Another reason to invite us to secure this great ledge of mountains 
is, the probability that very valuable mines may be discovered there. Nor 
would it be at all extravagant to hope for siher mines, among the rest, be- 
cause part of these mountains lie exactly in the same parallel, as well as 
upon the same continent with New Mexico, and the mines of St. Barb. 

28th. We had given orders for the horses to be brought up early, but the 
likelihood of more rain prevented our being over-hasty in decamping. Nor 
were we out in our conjectures, for about ten o'clock it began to fall very 
plentifully. Our commissioner's pain began now to abate, as the swelling 
increased. He made an excellent figure for a mountaineer, with one boot of 

• Which by a late survey has been found to extend above two hundred miles before it 
reaches its source, in a mountain, from whence Allegany, one of the branches of Missis- 
sippi, takes its rise, and runs south-west, as this river does south-east. 



65 THE HISTORY OF 

leather and the other of flannel. Thus accoutred, he intended to mount, if 
the rain had not happened opportunely to prevent him. Though, in truth, it 
was hardly possible for him to lide with so slender a defence, without expos- 
ing his foot to be bruised and tormented by the saplings, that stood thick on 
either side of the path. It was therefore a most seasonable rain for him, as 
it gave more time for his distemper to abate. Though it may be very dif- 
ficult to find a certain cure for the gout, yet it is not improbable but some 
things may ease the pain, and shorten the fits of it. And those medicines 
are most likely to do this, that supple the parts, and clear the passage through 
the narrow vessels, that are the seat of this cruel disease. Nothing will do 
this more suddenly than rattle-snake's oil, which will even penetrate the pores 
of glass when warmed in the sun. It v/as unfortunate, therefore, that we had 
not taken out the fat of those snakes we had killed some time before, for the 
benefit of so useful an experiment, as well as for the relief of our fellow-tra- 
veller. But lately the Seneca rattle-snake root has been discovered in this 
country, which being infused in wine, and drunk morning and evening, has 
in several instances had a very happy effect upon the gout, and enabled crip- 
ples to throw away their crutches and walk several miles, and, what is 
stranger still, it takes away the pain in half an hour. Nor was the gout the 
only disease amongst us that v^'as hard to cure. We had a man in our 
company who had too voracious a stomach for a woodsman. He ate as 
much as any other two, but all he swallowed stuck by him till it was carried 
off by a strong purge. Without this assistance, often repeated, his belly and 
bowels would swell to so enormous a balk that he could hardly breathe, es- 
pecially when he lay down, just as if he had had an asthma ; though, notwith- 
standing this oddness of constitution, he was a very strong, lively fellow, and 
used abundance of violent exercise, by which it was wonderful the peristal- 
tic motion was not more vigorously promoted. We gave this poor man 
several purges, which only eased him for the present, and the next day he 
would grow as burly as ever. At last we gave him a moderate dose of ipo- 
coacanah, in broth made very salt, which turned all its operation downwards. 
This had so happy an effect that, from that day forward to the end of our 
journey, all his complaints ceased, and the passages continued unobstructed. 

The rain continued most of the day and some part of the night, which in- 
commoded us much in our dirty camp, and made the men think of nothing 
$ '^ but eating, even at the time when nobody could stir out to make provision 

for it. 

29th. Though we were flattered in the morning with the usual tokens of 
a fair day, yet they all blew over, and it rained hard before we could make 
ready for our departure. This was still in favour of our podagrous friend, 
whose lameness was now grown better, and the inflammation fallen. Nor did 
it seem to need above one day more to reduce it to its natural proportion, and 
make it fit for the boot ; and effectually the rain procured this benefit for 
him, and gave him particular reason to believe his stars propitious. Notwith- 
standing the falling weather, our hunters sallied out in the afternoon, and 
drove the woods in'a ring, which was thus performed. From the circumfer- 
ence of a large circle they all marched inv^ards and drove the game towards 
the centre. By this means they shot a brace of fat bears, which came very 
seasonably, because we had made clean work in the morning and were in 
danger of dining with St. Anthony, or his grace Duke Humphry. But in 
this expedition the unhappy man who had lost himself once before, straggled 
again so far in pursuit of a deer, that he was hurried a second time quite out of 
his knowledge ; and night coming on before he could recover the camp, he was 
obliged to lie down, without any of the comforts of fire, food or covering ; 
nor would his fears suffer him to sleep very sound, because, to his great dis- 



THE DIVIDLNf; LIWF.. 67 

turbance, the wolves howled all that night, and the panthers screamed most 
frightfully. In the evening a brisk north-wester swept ail the clouds from 
the sky, and exposed the mountains as well as the stars to our prospect. 
That which was the most lofty to the southward, and which we called the 
Lover's Leap, some of our Indian traders fondly fancied was the Kiawan 
mountain, which they had formerly seen from the country of the Cherokees. 
They were the more positive by reason of the prodigious precipice that re- 
markably distinguished the west end of it. We seemed however not to be 
far enough south for that, though it is not improbable but a few miles farther 
the course of our line might carry us to the most northerly towns of the 
Cherokees. What makes this the more credible, is the north-west course, 
that om' traders take from the Catawbas for some hundred miles together, 
when they carry goods that round-about way to the Cherokees. It was a 
great pity that the want of bread, and the weakness of our horses, hindered us 
from making the discovery. Though the great service such an excursion might 
have been to the country would certainly have made the attempt not only 
pardonable, but much to be commended. Our traders are now at the vast 
charge and fatigue of travelling above five hundred miles for the benefit of 
that traffic which hardly quits cost. Would it not then be worth the as- 
sembly's while to be at some charge to find a shorter cut to carry on so pro- 
fitable a trade, with more advantage, and less hazard and trouble, than they 
do at present 1 For I am persuaded it will not then be half the distance that 
our traders make it now, nor half so far as Georgia lies from the northern 
clans of that nation. Such a discovery would certainly prove an unspeak- 
able advantage 'to this colony, by facilitating a trade with so considerable a 
nation of Indians, which have sixty-two towns, and more than four thousand 
fighting men. Our traders at that rate would be able to undersell those sent 
from the other colonies so much, that the Indians must have reason to deal 
with them preferable to all others. Of late the new colony of Georgia ha^ 
made an act obliging us to go four hundred miles to take out a license to 
traffic with these Cherokees, though many of their towns lie out of their 
bounds, and we had carried on this trade eighty years before that colony was 
thought of 

30th. In the morning early the man who had gone astray the day before 
found his way to the camp, by the sound of the bells that were upon the 
horses' necks. At nine o'clock we began our march back towards the rising 
sun ; for though we had finished the line, yet we had not yet near finished 
our fatigfte. We had after all two hundred good miles at least to our several 
habitations, and the horses were brought so low, that we were obliged to 
travel on foot great part of the way, and that in our boots, too, to save our 
legs from being torn to pieces by the bushes and briers. Had we not done 
this, we must have lefi; all our horses behind, which could now hardly drag 
their legs after them, and with all the favour we could show the poor animals, 
we were forced to set seven of them free, not far from the foot of the moun- 
tains. Four men were despatched early to clear the road, that our lame 
commissioner's leg might be *in less danger of being bruised, and that the 
baggage horses might travel with less difficulty and more expedition. As we 
passed along, by favour of a serene sky, we had still, from every eminence, a 
perfect view of the mountains, as well to the north as to the south. We 
could not forbear now and then facing about to survey them, as if unwilling 
to part with a prospect, which at the same time, like some rake's, was very 
wild and very agreeable. We encouraged the horses tP exert the little 
strength they had, and being light, they made a shift to jog on about eleven 
miles. We encamped on Crooked creek, near a thicket of canes. In the 
front of our camp rose a very beautiful hill, that bounded our view at about a 



C'8 THE HISTORY OF 

mile's distance, and all the intermediate space was covered with green canes. 
Though, to our sorrow, fire-wood was scarce, which was now the harder 
upon us, because ^ noi-th-wester blew very cold fiom the mountains. 

The Indian killed a scatel)% fat buck, and we picked liis bones as clean as a 
score of turkey-buzzards could have done. By the advantage of a clear 
night, we made trial once more of the variation, and found it much the same 
as formerly. This being his majesty's birthday, we drank all the loyal healths 
in excellent water, not for the sake of the drink, (like many of our fellow sub- 
jects,) but purely for the sake of the toast. And because all public mirth 
should be a little noisy, we fired several volleys of canes, instead of guns, 
which gave a loud report. We threw them into the fire, where the air en- 
closed betwixt the joints of the canes, being expanded by the violent heat, 
burst its narrow bounds with a considerable explosion! 

In the evening one of the men knocked down an opossum, which is a 
harmless little beast, that will seldom go out of your way, and if you take 
hold of it, will only grin, and hardly ever bite. The flesh was well tasted 
and tender, approaching nearest to pig, which it also resembles in bigness. 
The colour of its fur was a goose gray, with a swine's snout, and a tail like 
a rat's, but at least a foot long. By twisting this tail about the arm of a tree, 
it will hang with all its weight, and swing to any thing it wants to take hold 
of! It has five claws on the fore feet of equal length, but the hinder feet have 
only four claws, and a sort of thumb standing off at a proper distance. 
Their leet being thus formed, qualify tliem for climbing up trees to catch little 
birds, which they are very fond of But the greatest particularity of this 
creature, and which distinguishes it from most others that we are acquainted 
with, is the false belly of the female, into which her young retreat in time of 
danger. She can draw the slit, which is the inlet into this pouch, so close, 
that you must look narrowly to find it, especially if she happen to be a virgin. 
.Within the false belly may be seen seven or eight teats, on which the young 
ones grow from their first formation till they are big enough to fall off, like 
ripe fruit from a tree. This is so odd a method of generation, that I should 
not have believed it without the testimony of mine own eyes. Besides a 
knowing and credible person has assured me he has more than once observed 
the embryo opossums growing to the teat before they were completely shaped, 
and afterwards watched their daily growth till they were big enough for 
birth. And all this he could the more easily pry into, because the dam was 
so perfectly gentle and harmless, that he could handle her just as he pleased. 
I could hardly persuade myself to publish a thing so contrary to tbe course 
that nature takes in the production of other animals, unless it were a matter 
commonly believed in all countries where that creature is produced, and has 
been often observed by persons of undoubted credit and understanding. 
They say that the leather-winged bats produce their young in the same un- 
common manner. And that young sharks at sea, and young vipers ashore, 
run down the throats of their dams v.hen they are closely pursued. 

The frequent crossing of Crooked creek, and mounting the steep banks of 
it, gave the finishing stroke to the foundering oiir horses: and no less than 
two of them made a full stop here, and would not advancp a foot farthei-, cither 
by fair means or foul. We had a dreamer of dreams amongst us, who 
warned me in the morning to take care of myself, or I should infallibly fall 
into the creek ; I thanked him kindly, and used what caution I could, but was 
not able it seems to avoid my destiny, for ray horse made a false step and 
laid me down a#my full length in the water. This was enough to bring 
dreaming into credit, and I think it much for the honour of our expedition, 
that it was graced not only v/ith a priest but also with a prophet. We were 
so perplexed with this serpentine creek, as well as in passing the branches of 



THE DIVIDING LINE. QQ 

the Irvin, (which were swelled since we saw them before,) that we could reach 
but five miles this whole day. In the evening we pitched our tent near Miry- 
creek, (though an uncomfortable place to lodge in) purely for the advantage 
of the canes. Our hunters killed a large doe and two bears, which made all 
other misfortunes easy. Certainly no Tartar ever loved horse-flesh, nor 
Hottentot guts and garbage, better than woodsmen do bear. The truth of it 
is, it may be proper food perhaps for such as work or ride it off, but, with our 
chaplain's leave, who loved it much, I think it not a very proper diet 
for saints, who do not mortify the flesh by toil. And now, for the good 
of mankind, and for the better peopling an infant colony, which has no 
want but that of inhabitants, I will venture to publish a secret of importance, 
which our Indian disclosed to me. I asked him the reason why few or none 
of hiS countrywomen were barren ! To which curious question he answered, 
with a broad grin upon his face, they had an infallibte secret for that. Upon 
my being importunate to know what the secret might be, he informed me 
that, if any Indian woman did not prove with child at a decent time after 
marriage, the husband, to save his reputation with the women, forthwith en- 
tered into a bear-diet for six weeks, which in that time pi-oduces such healthy 
effect, that it is great odds but his wife becomes a mother in nine months. 
And thus much I am able to say, besides, for the reputation of the bear 
diet, that all the married men of our company were joyful fathers within 
forty weeks after they got home, and most of the single men had children 
sworn to them within the same time, our chaplain always excepted, who, 
with much ado, made a shift to cast out thatjmportunate kind of devil, by 
dint of fasting and prayer. . '— "" 

November 1st. By the negligence of one of the men in not hobbling his 
horse, he straggled so far that he could not be found. This stopped us all 
the morning long; yet, because our time should not be entirely lost, we en- 
deavoured to observe the latitude at twelve o'clock. Though our observa- 
tion was not perfect, by reason the wind blew a little too fresh, however, by 
such a one as we could make, we found ourselves in thirty-six degrees twenty 
minutes only. Notwithstanding our being thus delayed, and the uneveness 
of the ground, over which we were obliged to walk, (for most of us 
served now in the infantry,) we travelled no less than six miles, though as 
merciful as we were to our poor beasts, another of them tired by the way, 
and was left behind for the wolves and panthers to feast upon. 

As we marched along, we had the fortune to kill a brace of bucks, as many 
bears, and one wild turkey. But this was carrying our sport to wanton- 
ness, because we butchered more than we were able to transport. We 
ordered the deer to be quartered and divided among the horses for the lighter 
carriage, and recommended the bears to our daily attendants, the turkey- 
buzzards. We always chose to carry venison along with us rather than 
bear, not only because it was less cumbersome, but likewise because the peo- 
ple could eat it without bread, which was now almost spent. Whereas the 
other, being richer food, lay too heavy upon the stomach, unless it were light- 
ened by something farinaceous. This is what I thought proper to remark, 
for the service of all those whose business or diversion shall oblige them to 
live any time in the woods. And because I am persuaded that very useful 
matters may be found out by searching this great wilderness, especially the 
upper parts of it, about the mountains, I conceive it will help to engage able 
men in that good work, if I recommend a wholesome kind of food, of very 
small w^eight and very great nourishment, that will secure them from starving, 
in case they should be so unlucky as to meet with no game. The chief dis- 
couragement at present from penetrating far into the woods is the trouble of 
carrying a load of provisions. I must own femine is a frightful monster, and 

K 



70 



THE HISTORY OF 



for that reason to be guarded against as well as we can. But the common 
precautions against it, are so burthensome, that people cannot tarry long out, 
and go far enough from home, to make any effectual discovery. The porta- 
ble provisions I would furnish our foresters withal are glue-broth and 
rockahominy : one contains the essence of bread, the other of meat. The 
best way of making the glue-broth is after the following method : Take a 
leg of beef, veal, venison, or any other young meat, because old meat will not 
so easily jelly. Pare off all the fat, in which there is no nutriment, and of the 
lean make a very strong broth, after the usual manner, by boiling the meat 
to rags till all the goodness be out. After skimming off what fat remains, 
pour the broth into a wide stew-pan, well tinned, and let it simmer over a 
gentle even fire, till it come to a thick jelly. Then take it off and set it over 
boiling water, which is an evener heat, and not so apt to burn the broth to 
the vessel. Over that Jbt it evaporate, stirring it very often till it be reduced, 
when cold, into a solid substance like glue. Then cut it into small pieces, laying 
them single in the cold, that they may dry the sooner. When the pieces are 
perfectly" dry, put them into a canister, and they will be good, if kept 
dry, a whole East India voyage. This glue is so strong, that two or three 
drachms, dissolved in boiling water with a little salt, will make half a pint of 
good broth, and if you should be faint with fasting or fatigue, let a small piece 
of this glue melt in your mouth, and you will find yourself surprisingly re- 
freshed. One pound of this cookery would keep a man in good heart above 
a month, and is not only nourishing, but likewise very wholesome. Particu- 
lai'ly it is good against fluxes, which woodsmen are very liable to, by lying 
too near the moist ground, and guzzling too much cold water. But as it will 
be only used now and then, in times of scarcity, when game is wanting, two 
pounds of it will be enough for a journey of six months. But this broth will 
be still more heartening, if you thicken every mess with half a spoonful of 
rockahominy, which is nothing but Indian corn parched without burning, and 
reduced to powder. The fire drives out all the watery parts of the corn, 
leaving the strength of it behind, and this being very dry, becomes much 
lighter for carriage and less liable to be spoiled by the moist air. Thus half a 
dozen pounds of this sprightful bread will sustain a man for as many months, 
provided he husband it well, and always spare it when he meets with venison, 
which, as I said before, may be very safely eaten without any bread at all. 
By what I have said, a man need not encumber himself with more than 
eight or ten pounds of provisions, though he continue half a year in the 
woods. These and his gun will support him very well during that time, with- 
out the least danger of keeping one single fast. And though some of his 
days may be what the French call jours maigres, yet there will happen no 
more of those than will be necessary for his health, and to carry off the 
excesses of the days of plenty, when our travellers will be apt to indulge 
their lawless appetites too much. 

2d. The heavens frowned this morning, and threatened abundance of 
rain, but our zeal for returning made us defy the weather, and decamp a little 
before noon. Yet we had not advanced two miles, before a soaking shower 
made us glad to pitch our tent as fast as we could. We chose for that pur- 
pose a rising ground, half a mile to the east of Matrimony creek. This was 
the first and only time we were caught in the rain, during the whole expe- 
dition. It used before to be so civil as to fall in the night, after we were safe 
in our quarters, and had trenched ourselves in ; or else it came upon us on 
Sundays, when it was no interruption to our progress, nor any inconvenience 
to our persons. We had, however, been so lucky in this particular before, 
that we had abundant reason to take our present soaking patiently, and the 
misfortune was the less, because we had taken precaution to keep all our 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 71 

baggage and bedding perfectly dry. This rain was enlivened with very loud 
thunder, which was echoed hack by tlie liills in the neiglibourhood in a fright- 
ful manner. There is somctiiing in the woods that makes tl.e sound of this 
meteor more awful, and the violence of the lightning more visible. The 
trees are frequently shivered quite down to the root, and sometimes perfectly 
twisted. But of all tlie effects of lightning that ever I heard of, the most 
amazing happened in this country, in the year 1736. In tl.e summer of that 
year a surgeon of a ship, whose name was Davis, cam.e ashore at York to 
visit a patient. He was no sooner got into the house, but it began to rain 
with many terrible claps of thunder. When it was almost dark there came 
a dreadful flash of lightning, which struck the surgeon dead as he was walk- 
ing about the room, but hurt no other person, though several were near him. 
At the same time it made a large hole in the trunk of a pine tree, which grew 
about ten feet from the window. But what was most surprising in this dis- 
aster was, that on the breast of the unfortunate man that was killed was 
the figure of a pine tree, as exactly delineated as any limner in the world 
could draw it, nay, the resemblance went so far as to represent the colour 
of the pine, as well as the figure. The lightning must probably have passed 
through the tree first before it struck the man, and by that means have printed 
the icon of it on his breast. But whatever may iave been the caus«, the effect 
was certain, and can be attested by a cloud of witnesses who had the curi- 
osity to go and see this wonderful phenomenon. The worst of it was, we 
were forced to encamp in a barren place, where there was hardly a blade 
of grass to be seen, even the wild rosemary failed us here, which gave us 
but too just apprehensions that we should not only be obliged to trudge all 
the way home on foot, but also to lug our baggage at our backs into the bar- 
gain. Thus we learned by our own experience, that horses are very impro- 
per animals to use in a long ramble into the woods, and the better they have 
been used to be fed, they are still the worse. Such will fall away a great 
deal faster, and fail much sooner, than those which are wont to be at their 
own keeping. Besides, horses that have been accustomed to a plain and 
champaign country will founder presently, when they come to c'amber up 
hills, and batter their hoofs against continual rocks. We need Welsh runts, 
and Highland Galloways to climb our mountains withal; they are used to 
precipices, and will bite as close as Banstead Down sheep. But I should much 
rather recommend mules, if we had them, for these long and painful expe- 
ditions; though, till they can be bred, certainly asses are the fittest beasts of 
burthen for the mountains. They are sure-footed, patient under the heaviest 
fatigue, and will*ubsist upon moss, or browsing on shrubs all the winter. 
One of them will carry the necessary luggage of four men, without any dif- 
ficulty, and upon a pinch will take a quarter of bear or venison upon their 
backs into the bargain. Thus, when the men are light and disengaged from 
every thing but their guns, they may go the whole journey on foot with 
pleasure. And though my dear countrymen have so great a passion for 
riding, that they will often walk two miles to catch a horse, in order to ride 
one, yet, if they will p!ease to take my word for it, when they go into the 
woods upon discover)', 1 would advise them by all means to march a-foot, 
for they will then be delivered from the great care and concern for their 
horses, which takes up too large a portion of their time. Over night we are 
now at the trouble of hobbling them out, and often of leading them a mile or 
two to a convenient place for forage, and then in the morning we are some 
hours in finding them again, because they are apt to stray a great way from 
the place where they were turned out. Now and then, too, they are lost for 
a whole day together, and are frequently so weak and jaded, that the com- 
pany must lie still several days, near some meadow, or highland pond, to 



72 THE HISTORY OF 

recruit them. All these delays retard their progress intolerably; whereas, if 
they had only a few asses, they would abide close to the camp, and find suf- 
ficient food every where, and in all seasons of the year. Men would then 
be able to travel safely over hills and dales, nor would the steepest mountains 
obstruct their progress. They might also search more narrowly for mines and 
other productions of nature, without being confined to level grounds, in com- 
pliment to the jades they ride on. And one may foretell, without the spirit 
of divination, that so long as woodsmen continue to range on horse-back, 
we shall be strangers to our own country, and few or no valuable discoveries 
will ever be made. The French couriers de bois, who have run from one 
end of the continent to the other, have performed it all on foot, or else in all 
probability must have continued full as ignorant as we are. Our coimtry 
has now been inhabited more than one hundred and thirty years by the 
English, and still we hardly know any thing of the Appallachian mountains, 
that are no where above two hundred and fifty miles from the sea. Where- 
as the French, who are later comers, have ranged from duebec southward 
as far as the mouth of Mississippi, in the bay of Mexico, and to the west al- 
most as far as California, which is either way above two thousand miles. 

od. A north-west wind having cleared the sky, we were now tempted to 
travel on a Sunday, for the first time, for want of more plentiful forage, 
though some of the more scrupulous amongst us were unwilling to do evil, 
that good might come of it, and make our cattle work a good part of the 
day in order to fill their bellies at night. However, the chaplain put on his 
casuistical face, and offered to take the sin upon himself We therefore con- 
sented to move a Sabbath day's journey of three or four miles, it appearing 
to be a matter of some necessity. On the way our unmerciful Indian killed 
no less than two brace of deer and a large bear. We only primed the deer, 
being unwilling to be encumbered with their whole carcasses. The rest we 
consigned to the wolves, which in return serenaded us great part of the 
night. They are very clamorous in their banquets, which we know is the 
way some other brutes have, in the extravagance of their jollity and spright- 
liness, of expressing their thanks to Providence. 

We came to our old camp, in sight of the river Irvin, whose stream was 
swelled now near four feet with the rain that fell the day before. This made 
it impracticable for us to ford it, nor could we guess when the water would fall 
enough to let us go over. This put our mathematical professor, who should 
have set a better example, into the vapours, fearing he should be obliged to 
take up his winter quarters in that doleful wilderness. But the rest were not 
infected with his want of faith, but preserved a firmness of mind superior to 
such little adverse accidents. They trusted that the same good Providence 
which had most remarkably prospered them hitherto, would continue his 
goodness and conduct them safe to the end of their journey. However, we 
found plainly that travelling on the Sunday, contrary to our constant rule, 
had not thriven with us in the least. We were not gainers of any distance 
by it, because the river made us pay two days for violating one. Neverthe- 
less, by making this reflection, I would not be thought so rigid an observer 
of the sabbath as to allow of no work at all to be done, or journeys to be 
taken upon it. I should not care to lie still and be knocked on the head, as the 
Jews were heretofore by Antiochus, because I believed it unlawful to stand upon 
my defence on this good day. Nor would I care, like a certain New England 
magistrate, to order a man to the whipping post, for daring to ride for a mid- 
wife on the Lord's day. On the contrary, 1 am for doing all acts of necessi- 
ty, charity, and self-preservation, upon a Sunday as well as other days of the 
week. But, as I think our present march could not strictly be justified by 
any of these rules, it was but just we should suffer a little for it. I never 



THE DIVIDING LINE 73 

could learn that the Indians set apart any day of the week or the year for 
the service of God. They pray, as philosophers eat, only when they have a 
stomach, without having any set time for it. Indeed these idle people have 
very little occasion for a sabbath to refresh themselves after hard labour, be- 
cause verj'^ few of them ever labour at all. Like the wild Irish, they would 
rather want than work, and are all men of pleasure, to whom every day is 
a day of rest. Indeed, in their hunting, they will take a little pains; but this 
being only a diversion, their spirits are rather raised than depressed by it, 
and therefore need at most but a night's sleep to recruit them. 

4th. By some stakes we had driven into the river yesterday, we perceived 
the water began to fall, but fell so slowly that we found we must have pa- 
tience a day or two longer. And because we were unwilling to lie altoge- 
ther idle, we sent back some of the men to bring up the two horses that tired 
the Saturday before. They were found near the place where we had left 
them, but seemed too sensible of their hberty to come to us. They were 
found standing indeed, but as motionless as the equestrian statue at Charing- 
Cross. We had great reason to apprehend more rain by the clouds that 
drove over our heads. The boldest amongst us were not without some 
pangs of uneasiness at so very sullen a prospect. However, God be praised ! 
it all blew over in a few hours. If much rain had fallen, we resolved to 
make a raft and bind it together with grape vines, to ferry ourselves and 
baggage over the river. Though, in that case, we expected the swiftness of 
the stream would have carried down our raft a long way before we could 
have tugged it to the opposite shore. • 

One of the young fellows we had sent to bring up the tired horses enter- 
tained us in the evening with a remarkable adventure he had met with that 
day. He had straggled, it seems, from his company in a mist, and made a 
cub of a year old betake itself to a tree. While he was new-priming his 
piece, with intent to fetch it down, the old gentlewoman appeared, and per- 
ceiving her heir apparent in distress, advanced open-mouthed to his relief 
The man was so intent upon his game, that she had approached very near 
him before he perceived her. But finding his danger, he faced about upon 
the enemy, which immediately reared upon her posteriors, and put herself in 
battle array. The man, admiring at the bear's assurance, endeavoured to fire 
upon her, but by the dampness of the priming, his gun did not go off. He 
cocked it a second time, and had the same misfortune. After missing fire 
twice, he had the folly to punch the beast with the muzzle of his piece ; but 
mother Bruin, being upon her guard, seized the weapon with her paws, and 
by main strength wrenched it out of the fellow's hands. The man being 
thus fairly disarmed, thought himself no longer a match for the enemy, and 
therefore retreated as fast as his legs could carry him. The brute naturally 
grew bolder upon the flight of her adversary, and pursued him with all her 
heavy speed. For some time it was doubtful whether fear made one run 
faster, or fury the other. But after an even course of about fifty yards, the 
man had the mishap to stumble over a stump, and fell down at his full length. 
He now wouldhave sold his life a penny-worth ; but the bear, apprehending 
there might be some trick in the fall, instantly hiiiled, and looked with much 
attention on her prostrate foe. In the mean while, the man had with great 
presence of mind resolved to make the bear believe he was dead, by lying 
breathless on the ground, in hopes that the beast would be too generous to 
kill him over again. To carry on the farce, he acted the corpse for some 
time without daring to raise his head, to see how near the monster was to 
him. But in about two minutes, to his unspeakable comfort, he was raised 
from the dead by the barking of a dog, belonging to one of his companions, 
who came seasonably to liis rescue, and drove the bear from pursuing the 



74 I'HK HISTORY OF 

man to take care of her cub, which she feared might now fall into a second 

distress. 

Stli. We judged the waters were assuaged this morning to make the river 
fordable. Therefore about ten we tiied the experiment, and every body got 
over safe, except one man, whose horse slipped from a rock as he forded over, 
and threw him into the river. But being able to swim, he was not carried 
down the stream very far before he recovered the north shore. At the dis- 
tance of about six miles we passed Cascade creek, and three miles farther we 
came upon the banks of the Dan, which we crossed with much difficulty, by 
reason the water was risen much higher than when we forded it before. 
Here the same unlucky person happened to be ducked a second time, and 
was a second time saved by swimming. My own horse too plunged in such 
a manner that his head was more than once under water, but with much 
ado recovered his feet, though he m^ade so low an obeisance, that the water 
ran fairly over my saddle. 

We continued our march as for as Lovi^land creek, where we took up our 
lodging, for the benefit of the canes and winter grass that grew upon the rich 
grounds thereabouts. On our way thither we had the misfortune to drop 
another horse, though he carried nothing the whole day but his saddle. We 
showed the same favour to most of our horses, for fear, if we did not 'do it, 
we should in a little time be turned into beasts of burthen ourselves. Custom 
had now made travelling on foot so familiar, that we were able to walk ten 
miles with pleasure. This we could do in our boots, notwithstanding our 
way lay over rough woods and uneven grounds. Our learning to walk in 
heavy boots was the same advantage to us that learning to dance high 
dances in wooden shoes is to the French, it made us most exceedingly nimble 
without them. The Indians, who have no way of travelling but on the hoof, 
make nothing of going twenty-five miles a day, and carrying their little ne- 
cessaries at their backs, and sometimes a stout pack of skins into the bargain. 
And very often they laugh at the English, who cannot stir to a next neigh- 
bour without a horse, and say that two legs are too much for such lazy 
people, wdio cannot visit their next neighbour without six. For their parts, 
they were utter strangers to all our beasts of burthen or carriage, before the 
slothful Europeans came amongst them. They had on no part of the 
American continent, or in any of the islands, either horses or asses, camels, 
dromedaries or elephants, to ease the legs of the original inhabitants, or to 
lighten their labour. Indeed, in South America, and particularly in Chili, they 
have a useful animal called " paco." This creature resembles a sheep pretty 
much ; only in the length of the neck, and figure of the head, it is more like a 
camel. It is very near as high as the ass, and the Indians there make use 
of it for carrying moderate burthens. The fleece that grows upon it is very 
valuable for the fineness, length and glossiness of the wool. It has one re- 
markable singularity, that the hoofs of its fore-feet have three clefts, and those 
behind no more than one. The flesh of this animal is something drier than 
our mutton, but altogether as well tasted. When it is angry, it has no way 
of resenting its wrongs, but by spitting in the face of those that provoke it: 
and if the spawl happen to light on the bare skin of any person, it first creates 
an itching, and afterwards a scab, if no remedy be applied. The way to 
manage these pacos, and make them tractable, is, to bore a hole in their ears, 
through which they put a rope, and then guide them just as they please. 
In Chili, they wear a beautiful kind of stuff", with thread made of this crea- 
ture's wool, which has a gloss superior to any camlet, and is sold very dear 
in that country. 

6th. The difficulty of finding the horses among the tall canes made it late 
before we decamped. We traversed very hilly grounds, but to make amends 



THE DIVIDING LINK. 



76 



it was pretty clear of underwood. We avoided crossing the Dan twice by 
taking a compass round the bend of" it. There was no passing by the angle 
of the river without halting a moment to entertain our eyes again with that 
charming prospect. When that pleasure was over we proceeded to Sable 
creek, and encamped a little to the east of it. The river thereabouts had a 
charming effect, its banks being adorned with green canes, sixteen feet high, 
which make a spring all the year, as well as plenty of forage all the winter. 
One of the men wounded an old buck, that was gray with years, and seemed 
by the reverend marks he bore upon him, to confirm the current opinion of 
that animal's longevity. The smart of his wounds made him not only turn 
upon the dogs, but likewise pursue them to some distance with great fury. 
However he got away at last, though by the blood that issued from his wound 
he could not run far before he fell, and without doubt made a comfortable 
repast for the wolves. However the Indian had better fortune, and supplied 
us with a fat doe, and a young bear two years old. At that age they are in 
their prime, and, if they be fat withal, they are a morsel for a cardinal. 

All the land we travelled over this day, and the day before, that is to say 
from the river Irvin to Sable creek, is exceedingly rich, both on the Virginia 
side of the line, and -that of Carolina. Besides whole forests of canes, that 
adorn the banks of the river and creeks threabouts, the fertility of the soil 
throws out such a quantity of winter grass, that horses and cattle might 
keep themselves in heart all the cold season without the help of any fodder. 
Nor have the low grounds only this advantage, but likewise the higher land, 
and particularly that which we call the Highland Pond, which is two miles 
broad, and of a length unknown. 

I question not but there are thirty thousand acres at least, lying altogether, 
as fertile as the lands were said to be about Babylon, which yielded, if 
Herodotus tells us right, an increase of no less than two or three hundred for 
one. But this hath the advantage of being a higher, and consequently a 
much healthier, situation than that. So that a colony of one thousand families 
might, with the help of moderate industry, pass their time very happily there. 
Besides grazing and tillage, which would abundantly compensate their labour, 
they might plant vineyards upon the hills, in which situation the richest wines 
are always produced. They might also propagate white mulberry trees, 
which thrive exceedingly in this climate, in order to the feeding of silk-worms, 
and making of raw silk. They might too produce hemp, flax and cotton, 
in what quantity they pleased, not only for their own use, but likewise for sale. 
Then they might raise very plentiful orchards, of both peaches and apples, 
which contribute as much as any fruit to the luxury of life. There is no soil 
or climate will yield better rice than this, which is a grain of prodigious in- 
crease, and of very wholesome nourishment. In short eveiy thing will grow 
plentifully here to supply either the wants or wantonness of man. Nor can 
I so much as wish that the more tender vegetables might grow here, such as 
orange, lemon, and olive trees, because then we should lose the much greater 
benefit of the brisk north-west winds, which purge the air, and sweep away 
all the malignant fevers, which hover over countries that are always warm. 
The soil would also want the advantages of frost, and snow, which by their 
nitrous particles contribute not a little to its fertility. Besides the inhabitants 
would be deprived of the variety and sweet vicissitude of the season, which 
is much more delightful than one dull and constant succession of warm 
weather, diversified only by rain and sunshine. There is also another con- 
venience, that happens to this country by cold weather— it destroys a great 
number of snakes, and other venomous reptiles, and troublesome insects, or 
at least lays them to sleep for several months, which otherwise would annoy 
us the whole year round, and multiply beyond all enduring. Though oranges 



73 THE HISTORY OF 

and lemons are desirable fruits, and useful enough in many cases, yet, when 
the want of them is supplied by others more useful, we have no cause to com- 
plain. There is no climate that produces every thing, since the deluge 
wrenched the poles of the world out of their place, nor is it fit it should be so, 
because it is the mutual supply one country receives from another, which 
creates a mutual traffic and intercourse amongst men. And in truth, were 
it not for the correspondence, in order to make up each other's w^ants, the 
wars betwixt bordering nations, like those of the Indians and other barba- 
rous people, would be perpetual and irreconcileable. As to olive trees, I 
know by experience they will never stand the sharpness of our winters, 
but their place may be supplied by the plant called sessamun, which yields an 
infinite quantity of large seed, from whence a sweet oil is pressed, that is very 
wholesome and in use amongst the people of Lesser Asia. Likewise it is used 
in Egypt, preferably to oil olive, being not so apt to make those that eat it 
constantly break out into scabs, as they do in many parts of Italy. This would 
grow very kindly here, and has already been planted with good success in 
North Carolina, by way of experiment. 

7th. After crossing the Dan, we made a march of eight miles, over hills 
and dales as far as the next ford of that river. And now we were by prac- 
tice become such very able footmen, that we easily outwalked our horses, 
and could have marched much farther, had it not been in pity to their weak- 
ness. Besides here was plenty of canes, which was reason enough to make 
us shorten our journey. Our gunners did great execution as they went 
along, killing no less than two brace of deer, and as many wild turkeys. 
Though practice will soon make a man of tolerable vigour an able footman, 
yet, as a help to bear fatigue I used to chew a root of ginseng as I walked 
along. This kept up my spirits, and made me trip away as nimbly in my half 
jack-boots as younger men could do in their shoes. This plant is in high es- 
teem in China, where it sells for its weight in silver. Indeed it does not grow 
there, but in the mountains of Tartary, to which place the emperor of China 
sends ten thousand men every year on purpose to gather it. But it grows so 
scattering there, that even so many hands can bring home no great quantity. 
Indeed it is a vegetable of so many virtues, that Providence has planted it very 
thin in every country that has the happiness to produce it. Nor indeed is man- 
kind worthy of so great a blessing, since health and long life are commonly 
abused to ill purposes. This noble plant grows likewise at the cape of Good 
Hope, where it is called kanna, and is in wonderful esteem among the Hotten- 
tots. It grows also on the northern continent of America, near the mountains, 
but as sparingly as truth and public spirit. It answers exactly both to the figure 
and virtues of that which grows in Tartary, so that there can be no doubt of its 
being the same. Its virtues are, that it gives an uncommon warmth and 
vigour to the blood, and frisks the spirits, beyond any other cordial. It cheers 
the heart even of a man that has a bad wife, and makes him look down with 
great composure on the crosses of the world. It promotes insensible per- 
spiration, dissolves all phlegmatic and viscous humours, that are apt to obstruct 
the narrow channels of the nerves. It helps the memory, and would quick- 
en even Helvetian dulness. It is friendly to the lungs, much more than scold- 
ing itself. It comforts the stomach, and strengthens the bowels, preventing 
all colics and fluxes. In one word, it will make a man live a great while, 
and very well while he does live. And what is more, it will even make old 
age amiable, by rendering it lively, cheerful, and good-humoured. However 
it is of little use in the feats of love, as a great prince once found, who hear- 
ing of its invigorating quality, sent as far as China for some of it, though his 
ladies could not boast of any advantage thereby. 

We gave the Indian the skins of all the deer that he shot himself, and the 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 77 

men the skins of what they killed. And every evening after the fires were 
made, they stretched them very tight upon sticks, and dried them. This, by 
a nocturnal lire, appeared at first a very odd spectacle, every thing being 
dark and gloomy rouad about. After they are dried in this manner they 
may be folded up without damage, till they come to be dressed according to 
art. The Indians dress them with deer's brains, and so do the English here by 
their example. For expedition's sake they often stretch their skins over 
smoke in order to dry them, which makes them smell so disagreeably that a 
rat must have a good stomach to gnaw them in that condition ; nay, it is said, 
while that perfume continues in a pair of leather breeches, the person that 
wears them will be in no danger of that villanous little insect the French call 
morpion. And now I am upon the subject of insects, it may not be improper 
to mention some few remedies against those that are most vexatious in this 
climate. There are two sorts without doors, that are great nuisances, the 
ticks, and the horse flies. The ticks are either deer-ticks, or those that annoy 
the cattle. The first kind are long, and take a very strong gripe, being most 
In remote woods, above the inhabitants. The other are round, and more 
gently insinuate themselves into the flesh, being in all places where cattle are 
frequent. Both these sorts are apt to be troublesome during the warm season, 
but have such an aversion to pennyroyal, that they will attack no part that 
is rubbed with the juice of that fragrant vegetable. And a strong decoction 
of this is likewise the most effectual remedy against seed-ticks, which bury 
themselves in your legs, when they are so small you can hardly discern them 
without a microscope. 

The horse flies are not only a great griev^ance to horses, but likewise to 
those that ride them. These little vixens confine themselves chiefly to the 
woods, and are most in moist places. Though this insect be no bigger than 
an ordinary fly, it bites very smartly, darting its little proboscis into the skin 
the instant it lights upon it. These are offensive only in the hot months, and 
in the day time, when they are a great nuisance to travellers ; insomuch that 
it is no wonder they were formerly employed for one of the plagues of Egypt. 
But dittany, which is to be had in the woods all the while those insects 
remain in vigor, is a sure defence against them. For this purpose, if you 
stick a bunch of it on the head-stall of your bridle, they will be sure to keep 
a respectful distance. Thus, in what part of the woods soever any thing 
mischievous or troublesome is found, kind Providence is sure to provide a 
remedy. And it is probably one great reason why God was pleased to create 
these, and many other vexatious animals, that men should exercise their 
wits and industry, to guard themselves against them. Bears' oil is used by 
the Indians as a general defence against every species of vermin. Among 
the rest, they say it keeps both bugs and mosquitoes from assaulting their 
persons, which would otherwise devour such uncleanly people. Yet bears' 
grease has no strong smell, as that plant had which the Egyptians formerly 
used against mosquitoes, resembling our palma Christi, the juice of which 
smelled so disagreeably, that the remedy was worse than the disease. 
Against mosquitoes, in Egypt, the richer sort used to build lofty towers, with 
bed-chambers in the tops of thiem, that they might rest undisturbed. It is 
certain that these insects are no high fliers, because their wings are weak 
and their bodies so light, that if they mount never so little, the wind blows 
them quite away from their course, and they become an easy prey to the 
martins. East India bats, and other birds that fly about in continual quest of 
them. 

8th. As we had twice more to cross the Dan over two fords, that lay no 
more than seven miles from each other, we judged the distance would not be 
much greater to go round the bend of it. Accordingly we sent the Indian 

L. 



7g THE HISTORY OF 

and two white men that way, who came up with us in the evening, after 
fetching a compass of about twelve miles. They told its that, about a mile 
from our last camp, they passed a creek fortified with steep cliffs, which there- 
fore gained the name of Cliff creek. Near three miles beyond that they 
forded a second creek, on the margin of which grew abundance of tall canes 
and this was called Hix's creek, from one of the discoverers. Between these 
two creeks lies a level of .exceeding rich land, full of large trees, and covered 
with black mould, as fruitful, if we believe them, as that which is yearly over- 
flowed by the Nile. We who marched the nearest way upon the line found the 
ground rising and falling between the two fords of the Dan, which almost 
broke our own wind, and the hearts of our jaded palfreys. When we had 
passed the last ford, it was a sensible joy to find ourselves safe over all the 
waters that might cut off our retreat. And we had the greater reas©n to be 
thankful, because so late in the year it was very unusual to find the rivers 
so fordable. We caught a large terrapin in the river, which is one kind of turtle. 
The flesh of it is wholesome, and good for consumptive people. It lays a 
great number of eggs, not larger but rounder than those of pigeons. These 
are soft, but withal so tough that it is difficult to break them, yet are very 
sweet and invigorating, so that some wives recommend them earnestly'to 
their husbands. One of the men, by an overstrain, had unhappily got a 
running of the reins, for which I gave him every morning a little sweet gum 
dissolved in water, with good success. This gum distils from a large tree, 
called the sweet-gum tree, very common in Virginia, and is as healing in its 
virtue as balm of Gilead, or the balsams of Tolu and of Peru. It is likewise 
a most agreeable perfume, very little inferior to ambergris. And now I 
have mentioned ambergris, I hope it will not be thought an unprofitable di- 
gression, to give a faithful account how it is produced, in order to reconcile 
the various opinions concerning it. It is now certainly found to be the dung 
of the spermaceti whale, which is at first very black and unsavoury. But after 
having been washed for some months in the sea, and blanched in the sun, 
it comes at length to be of a gray colour, and fi'om a most offensive smell, 
contracts the finest fragrancy in the world. Besides the fragrancy of this 
animal substance, it is a very rich and innocent cordial, which raises the 
spirits without stupifying them afterwards, like opium, or intoxicating them 
Uke wine. The animal spirits are amazingly refreshed by this cordial, with- 
out the danger of any ill consequence, and if husbands were now and then 
to dissolve a little of it in their broth, their consorts might be the better for 
it, as well as themselves. In the Bahama islands (whei-e a great quantity is 
found, by reason the spermaceti whales resort thither continually,) it is 
used as an antidote against the venomous fish which abound therea- 
bouts, wherewith the people are apt to poison themselves. We are not only 
obliged to that whale for this rich perfume, but also for the spermaceti itself, 
which is the fat of that fish's head boiled and purged from all its impurities. 
What remains is of a balsamic and detersive quality, very friendly to the 
lungs, and useful in many other cases. 

The Indian had killed a fat doe in the compass he took round the elbow of 
the river, but Was content to prime it only, by reason it was too far off to lug 
the whole carcass upon his back. This, and a brace of wild turkeys which 
our men had shot, made up all our bill of fare this evening, but could only 
aflford a philosophical meal to so many craving stomachs. The horses were 
now so lean that any thing would gall those that carried the least burthen ; 
no wonder then if several of them had sore backs, especially now the pads of 
the saddles and packs were pressed flat with long and constant use. This 
would have been another misfortune, had we not been provided with an easy 
remedy for it. One of the commissioners, believing that such accidents might 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 79 

happen in a far journey, had furnished himself with plasters of strong glue 
spread pretty thick. We larid on these, after making them running hot, 
which, sticking fast, never fell off till the sore was perfectly healed. In the 
mean time it defended the part so well, that the saddle might bear upon it 
without danger of further injury. 

9th. We reckoned ourselves now pretty well out of the latitude of bears, to 
the great giief of most of the company. There was still mast enough left in the 
woods to keep the bears from drawing so near to the inhabitants. T^ey like not 
the neighbourhood of merciless man, till famine compels them to it. They are 
all black in this part of the world, and so is their dung, but it will make linen 
white, being tolerably good soap, without any preparation but only drying. 
These bears are of a moderate size, whereas within the polar circles they are 
white, and much larger. Those of the southern parts of Muscovy are of a 
russet colour, but among the Samoeids, as well as in Greenland and Nova- 
Zembla, they are as white as the snow they converse with, and by some 
accounts are as large as a moderate ox. The excessive cold of that climate 
sets their appetites so sharp, that they will attack a man without ceremony, 
and even climb up a ship's side to come at him. They range about and are 
very mischievous all the time the sun is above the horizon, which is something 
more than five months ; but after the sun is set for the rest of the year, they 
retire into holes, or bury themselves under the snow, and sleep away the 
dark season without any sustenance at all. It is pity our beggars and pick- 
pockets could not do the same. 

Our journey this day was above twelve miles, and more than half the way 
terribly hampered with bushes. We tired another horse, which we were 
obliged to leave two miles short of where we encamped, and indeed several 
others were upon the careen almost every step. Now we wanted one of 
those celebrated musicians of antiquity, who, they tell us, among many other 
wonders of their art, could play an air which, by its animating briskness, 
would make a jaded horse caper and curvet much better than any whip, spur, 
or even than swearing. Though I fear our poor beasts were so harassed that 
it would have been beyond the skill of Orpheus himself so much as to make 
them prick up their ears. For proof of the marvellous power of music 
among the ancients, some historians say, that one of those skilful masters 
took upon him to make the great Alexander start up from his seat, and handle 
his javelin, whether he would or not, by the force of a sprightly tune, which 
he knew how to play to him. The king ordered the man to bring his instru- 
ment, and then fixing himself firmly in his chair, and determining not to stir, 
he bade him strike up as soon as he pleased. The musician obeyed, and pre- 
sently roused the hero's spirits with such warlike notes, that he was constrain- 
ed, in spite of all his resolution, to spring up and fly to his javelin with great 
martial fury. We can the easier credit these profane stories by what we 
find recorded in the oracles of truth, where we are told the wonders David 
performed by sweetly touching his harp. He made nothing of driving the 
evil siilrit out of Saul, though a certain rabbi assures us he could not do so 
much by his wife, Michal, when she happened to be in her airs. The great- 
est instance we have of the power of modern music is that which cures 
those who in Italy are bitten by the little spider called the tarantula. The 
whole method of which is performed in the following manner. In Apulia 
it is a common misfortune for people to be bitten by the tarantula, and most 
about- Taranto and Gallipoli. This is a gray spider, not very large, with a 
narrow streak of white along the back. It is no wonder there are many of 
these villanous insects, because, by a ridiculous superstition it is accounted 
great inhumanity to kill them. They believe, it seems, that if the spider come 
to a violent death, all those who had been bitten by it will certainly have a 



30 THE HISTORY OF 

return of tlieir frenzy every year as long as they live. But if it die a natural 
death, the patient will have a chance to recover in two or three years. Tlie 
bite of the tarantula gives no more pain than tlie bite of a mosquito, and 
makes little or no inflammation on the part, especially when the disaster hap- 
pens in April or May ; but, its venom increasing with the heat of the season, 
has more fatal consequences in July and August. The persons who are so 
unhappy as to be bitten in those warm months, fall down on the place in a few 
minutes, and lie senseless for a considerable time, and when they come to 
themselves feel horrible pains, are very sick at their stomachs, and in a short 
time break out into foul sores ; but those who are bitten in the milder months 
have much gentler symptoms. They are longer before the distemper shows 
itself, and then they have a small disorder in their senses, are a little sick, and 
perhaps have some moderate breakings-out. However, in both cases, the 
patient keeps upon the bed, not caring to stir, till he is roused by a tune, 
proper for his particular case. Thei'efore, as soon as the symptoms disco- 
ver themselves, a tarantula doctor is sent for, who, after viewing carefully 
the condition of the person, first tries one tune and then another, until he is 
so fortunate as to hit the phrenetic turn of the patient. No sooner does this 
happen but he begins to wag a finger, then a hand, and afterwards a foot, till 
at last he springs up and dances round the room, with a surprising agility, 
rolling his eyes and looking wild the whole time. This dancing-fit lasts com- 
monly about twenty-five minutes, by which time he will be all in a lather. 
Then he sits down, falls a laughing, and returns to his senses. So plentiful a 
perspiration discharges so much of the venom as will keep off the return of 
the distemper for a whole year. Then it will visit him again, and must be 
removed in the same merry manner. But three dancing bouts will do the 
business, unless, peradventure, the spider, according to the vulgar notion, has 
been put to a violent death. The tunes played to expel this whimsical dis- 
order, are of the jig kind, and exceed not fifteen in number. The Apulians 
are frequently dancing off the effects of this poison, and no remedy is more 
commonly applied to any other distemper elsewhere, than those sprightly 
tunes are to the bite of the tarantula in that part of Italy. It is remarkable 
that these spiders have a greater spite to the natives of the place than they 
have to strangers, and women are oftener bitten than men. Though there may 
be a reason for the last, because women are more confined to the house, 
where these spiders keep, and their coats make them liable to attacks un- 
seen, whereas the men can more easily discover, and brush them off their 
legs. Nevertheless, both sexes are cured the same way, and thereby show 
the wonderful effects of music. 

Considering how far we had walked, and consequently how hungry we 
were, we found but short commons when we came to our quarters. One 
brace of turkeys was all the game we could meet with, which almost needed 
a miracle to enable them to suffice so many voracious appetites. However, 
they just made a shift to keep famine, and consequently mutiny, out of the 
camp. At night we lodged upon the banks of Buffalo creek, where none of 
us could complain of loss of rest, for having eaten too heavy and luxurious 
a supper. 

10th. In a dearth of provisions our chaplain pronounced it lawful to make 
bold with the sabbath, and send a party out a-hunting. They fired the dry 
leaves in a ring of five miles' circumference, which, burning inwards, drove 
all the game to the centre, where they were easily killed. It is really a pitiful 
sight to see the extreme distress the poor deer are in, when they find them- 
selves surrounded with this circle of fire ; they weep and groan like a human 
creature, yet cannot move the compassion of those hard-hearted people, 
who are about to murder them. This unmerciful sport is called fire hunting, 



THE DIVIDING LINE. gj 

and is much practised by the Indians and frontier inhabitants, wlio some- 
times, in the eagerness of their diversion, are punished for their cruelty, and 
are hurt by one another when they shoot across at the deer which are in the 
middle. What the Indians do now by a circle of fire, the ancient Persians 
performed formerly by a circle of men : and the same is practised at this 
day in Germany upon extraordinary occasions, when any of the princes of 
the empire have a mind to make a general hunt, as tiiey call it. At such 
times they order a vast number of people to surround a whole territory. 
Then marching inwards in close order, they at last force all the wild beasts 
into a narrow compass, that the prince and his company may have the di- 
version of slaughtering as many as they please with their own hands. Our 
hunters massacred two brace of deer after this unfair way, of which they 
brought us one brace whole, and only the primings of the rest. 

So many were absent on this occasion, that we who remained excused 
the chaplain from the trouble of spending his spirits by preaching to so thin 
a congregation. One of the men, who had been an old Indian trader, brought 
me a stem of silk grass, which was about as big as my little finger. But, 
being so late in the year that the leaf was fallen off", I am not able to describe 
the plant. The Indians use it in all their little manufactures, twisting a 
thread of it that is prodigiously strong. Of this they make their baskets 
and the aprons which their women wear about their middles, for decency's 
sake. These are long enough to wrap quite round them and reach down to 
their knees, with a fringe on the under part by way of ornament. They put 
on this modest covering with so much art, that the most impertinent curiosity 
cannot in the negligentest of their motions or postures make the least dis- 
covery. As this species of silk grass is much stronger than hemp, I make 
no doubt but sail cloth and cordage might be made of it with considerable 
improvement. 

1 1th. We had all been so refreshed by our day of rest, that we decamped 
earlier than ordinary, and passed the several fords of Hico river. The 
woods were thick great part of this day's journey, so that we were forced to 
scuffle hard to advance seven miles, being equal in fatigue to double that 
distance of clear and open grounds. We took up our quarters upon Sugar- 
tree creek, in the same camp we had lain in when we came up, and happened 
to be entertained at supper with a rarity we had never had the fortune to 
meet with before, during the whole expedition. A little wide of this creek, 
one of the men had the luck to meet with a young buffalo of two years old. 
It was a bull, which, notwithstanding he was no older, was as big as an ordi- 
nary ox. His legs were very thick and very short, and his hoofs exceeding 
broad. His back rose into a kind of bunch a little above the shoulders, 
which I believe contributes not a little to that creature's enormous strength. 
His body is vastly deep from the shoulders to the brisket, sometimes six feet 
in those that are full grown. The portly figure of this animal is disgraced 
by a shabby little tail, not above twelve inches long. This he cocks up on 
end whenever he is in a passion, and, instead of lowing or bellowing, grunts 
with no better grace than a hog. The hair growing on his head and neck is 
long and shagged, and so soft that it will spin into thread not unlike mohair, 
which might be wove into a sort of camlet. Some people have stockings 
knit of it, that would have served an Israelite during his forty years' march 
through the wilderness. Its horns are short and strong, of which the Indians 
make large spoons, which they say will split and fall to pieces whenever poi- 
son is put into them. Its colour is a dirty brown, and its hide so thick that 
it is scarce penetrable. However, it makes very spongy sole leather by the 
ordinary method of tanning, though this fault might by good contrivance be 
mended. As thick as this poor beast's hide was, a bullet made shift to enter 



g2 iHE HISTORY OF 

it and fetch liini down. It was found all alonf, though buffaloes seldom are. 
They usually range about in herds, like other cattle, and, though they differ 
something in figure, are certainly of the same species. There are two rea- 
sons for this opinion : the flesh of both has exactly the same taste, and the 
mixed breed betwixt both, they say, will generate. All the difference I could 
perceive between the flesh of iDuffalo and common beef was, that the flesh of 
the first was much yellower than that of the other, and the lean something 
tougher. The men were so delighted with this new diet, that the gridiron 
and frying-pan had no more rest all night, than a poor husband subject to 
curtain lectures. Buffaloes may be easily tamed when they are taken young. 
The best way to catch them is to carry a milch mare into the woods, and 
when you find a cow and calf, to kill the cow, and then having caught the 
calf, to suckle it upon the mare. After once or twice sucking her, it will fol- 
low her home, and become as gentle as another calf. If we could get into a 
breed of them, they might be made very useful, not only for the dairy, by 
giving an ocean of milk, but also for drawing vast and cumbersome weights 
by their prodigious strength. These, with the other advantages I mentioned 
before, would make this sort of cattle more profitable to the owner, than any 
other we are acquainted with, though they would need a world of provender. 

12th. Before we marched this morning, every man took care to pack up 
some buffalo steaks in his wallet, besides what he crammed into his belly. 
When provisions were plenty, we always found it difficult to get out early, 
being too much embarrassed with a long-winded breakfast. However, by 
the strength of our beef, we made a shift to walk about twelve miles, cross- 
ing Blue-wing and Tewaw-homini creeks. And because this last stream re- 
ceived its appellation from the disaster of a Tuscarora Indian, it will not be 
straggling much out of the way to say something of that particular nation. 

These Indians were heretofore very numerous and powerful, making, 
within time of memory, at least a thousand fighting men. Their habitation, 
before the war with Carolina, was on the north branch of Neuse river, com- 
monly called Connecta creek, in a pleasant and fruitful country. But now the 
kw that are left of that nation live on the north side of Moratuck, which is all 
that part of Roanoke below the great falls, towards Albemarle sound. Formerly 
-there were seven towns of these savages, lying not far from each other, but 
now their number is greatly reduced. The trade they have had the misfor- 
tune to drive with the English has furnished them constantly with rum, 
which they have used so immoderately, that, what with the distempers, and 
what with the quarrels it begat amongst them, it has proved a double de- 
struction. But the greatest consumption of these savages happened by the 
war about twenty -five years ago, on account of some injustice the inhabitants 
■of that province had done them about their lands. It was on that provocation 
they resented their wrongs a little too severely upon Mr. Lawson, who, under 
colour of being surveyor general, had encroached too much upon their territo- 
ries, at which they were so enraged, that they waylaid him, and cut his throat 
from ear to ear, but at the same time released the baron de Graffenried, whom 
they had seized for company, because it appeared plainly he had done them 
no wrong. This blow was followed by some other bloody actions on the part 
of the Indians, which brought on the war, wherein many of them were cut 
off, and many were obliged to flee for refuge to the Senee^, so that now 
there remain so few, that they are in danger of being quite exterminated by 
the Catawbas, their mortal enemies. Thes-e Indians have a very odd tradition 
amongst them, that many years ago, their nation was grown so dishonest, 
that no man could keep any of his goods, or so much as his loving wife to 
himself. That, however, their God, being unwilling to root them out for their 
crimes, did them the honour to send a messenger from heaven to instruct 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 83 

them, and set tliem a perfect example of integrity and Ivind beliavior towards 
one anotlier. But tliis lioly person, with all his eloquence and sanctity of life, 
was able to make very little reformation amongst them. Some few old 
men did listen a little to his wholesome advice, but all the young fellows were 
quite incorrigible. They not only neglected his precepts, but derided and 
evil entreated his person. At last, taking upon him to reprove some young 
rakes of the Conechta clan very sliarply for their impiety, they were so pro- 
voked at the freedom of his lebukes, that they tied him to a tree, and shot 
him with arrows through the heart. But their God took instant vengeance 
on all who had a hand in that monstrous act, by lightning from heaven, and 
has ever since visited their nation with a continued train of calamities, nor 
will he ever leave off punishing, and wasting their people, till he shall have 
blotted every living soul of them out of the world. 

Our hunters shot nothing this whole day but a straggling bear, which hap- 
pened to fall by the hand of the very person who had been kitely disarmed and 
put to flight, for which he declared war against the whole species. 

1 3th. We pursued our journey with all diligence, and forded Ohimpamony 
creek about noon, and from thence proceeded to Yapatsco, which we could 
not cross without difficulty. The beavers had dammed up the water much 
higher than we found it at our going up, so that we were obliged to lay a 
bridge over a part that was shallower than the rest, to facilitate our passage. 
Beavers have more of instinct, that half-brother of reason, than any other 
animal, especially in matters of self-preservation. In their houses they al- 
ways contrive a sally-port, both towards the land and towards the water, that 
so they may escape by one, if their retreat should happen to be cut oflfat the 
other. They perform all their works in the dead of night, to avoid discovery^ 
and are kept diligently to it by the master beaver, which by his age or 
strength has gained to himself an authority over the rest. If any of the gang 
happen to be lazy, or will not exert himself to the utmost in felling of trees» 
or dragging them to the place where they are made use of, this superintend- 
ent will not fail to chastise him with the flat of the tail, wherewith he is able 
to give unmerciful strokes. They lie snug in their houses all day, unless some 
unneighbourly miller chance to disturb their repose, by demolishing their 
dams for supplying his mill with water. It is rare to see one of them, and 
the Indians for that reason have hardly any way to take them, but by laying 
snares near the place where they dam up the water. But the English hunters 
have found out a more effectual method, by using the following receipt. Take 
the large pride of the beaver, squeeze all the juice out of it, then take the 
small pride, and squeeze out about five or six drops. Take the inside of sas- 
safi-as bark, powder it, and mix it with the liquor, and place this bait conve- 
niently for your steel trap. The story of their biting off" their testicles to 
compound for their lives, when they are pursued, is a story taken upon trust 
by Pliny, like many others. Nor is it the beavers' testicles that carry the per- 
fume, but they have a pair of glands just within the fimdament, as sweet as 
musk, that perfume their dung, and communicate a strong scent to their testi- 
cles, by being placed near them. It is true several creatures have strange in- 
stincts for their preservation, as the Egyptian frog, we are told by Elian, will 
caiTy a whole joint of a reed across its mouth, that it may iiot be swallowed 
by the ibis. And this long-necked fowl will give itself a clyster with its beak, 
whenever it finds itself too costive or feverish. The dogs of that country lap the 
water of the Nile in a full trot, that they may not be snapped by the crocodiles. 
Both beavers and M'olves, we know, when one of their legs is caught in a 
steel trap, will bite it off", that they may escape with the rest. The flesh of 
the beavers is tough and dry, all but the tail, which, like the parrot's tongue, 
was one of the far-fetched rarities with wliich Heliogabalus used to fuinisii 



34 THE HISTORY OF 

his luxuiious table. The fur of these creatures is very valuable, especially in 
the more northern countries, where it is longer and finer. This the Dutch 
have lately contiived to mix with their wool, and weave into a sort of drug- 
get, that is not only warm, but wonderfully light and soft. They also make 
gloves and stockings of it, that keep out the cold almost as well as the fur it- 
self, and do not look quite so savage. 

There is a deal of rich low ground on Yapatsco creek, but I believe liable 
to be overflowed in a fresh. However, it might be proper enough for rice, 
which receives but little injury from water. We encamped on the banks of 
Massamony creek, after a journey of more than eleven miles. By the way 
we shot a fat doe and a wild turkey, which fed us all plentifully. And we 
have reason to say, by our own happy experience, that no man need to 
despair of his daily bread in the woods, whose faith is but half so large as 
his stomach. 

14th. Being at length happily arrived within twenty miles of the upper- 
most inhabitants, we despatched two men who had the ablest horses to go 
before, and get a beef killed and some bread baked to refresh their fellow 
travellers, upon their arrival. They had likewise orders to hire an express 
to carry a letter to the governor, giving an account that we were all return- 
ed in safety. This was the more necessary, because we had been so long 
absent that many now began to fear we were, by this time, scalped and bar- 
bacued by the Indians. We decamped with the rest of the people about ten 
o'clock, and marched near twelve miles. In our way we crossed Nutbush 
creek, and four miles farther we came upon a beautiful branch of Great 
creek, where we took up our quarters. The tent was pitched upon an emi- 
nence, which overlooked a wide piece of low grounds, covered with reeds 
and watered by a crystal stream, gliding through the middle of it. On the 
other side of this delightful valley, which was about half a mile wide, rose a 
hill that terminated the view, and in the figure of a semicircle closed in upon 
the opposite side of the valley. This had a most agreeable effect upon the 
eye, and wanted nothing but cattle grazing in the meadow, and sheep and 
goats feeding on the hill, to make it a complete rural landscape. 

The Indian killed a fawn, which, being upon its growth, was not fat, but 
made some amends by being tender. He also shot an otter, but our people 
were now better fed than to eat such coarse food. The truth of it is, the 
flesh of this creature has a rank fishy taste, and for that reason might be a 
proper regale for the Samoeids, who drink the czar of Muscovy's health and 
toast their mistresses in a bumper of train oil. The Carthusians, to save 
their vow of eating no flesh, pronounce this amphibious animal to be a fish, 
and feed upon it as such, without wounding their consciences. The skin of 
the otter is very soft, and the Swedes make caps and socks of it, not only for 
warmth, but also because they fancy it strengthens the nerves, and is good 
against all distempers of the brain. The otter is a great devourer of fish, 
which are its natural food, and whenever it betakes itself to a vegetable diet, 
it is as some high-spirited wives obey their husbands, by pure necessity. 
They dive after their prey, though they cannot continue long under water, 
but thrust their noses up to the surface now and then for breath. They are 
great enemies to weirs set up in the rivers to catch fish, devouring or biting 
to pieces all they find there. Nor is it either easy to fright them from this kind of 
robbery, or to destroy them. The best way I could ever find was to float 
an old wheel just by the weir, and so soon as the otter has taken a large fish, 
he will get upon the wheel to eat it more at his ease, which may give you an 
opportunity of firing upon him from tlie shore. One of our people shot a 
large gray squirrel with a very bushy tail, a singular use of which our merry 
Indian discovered to us. He said whenever this little animal has occasion to 



THE DIVIDING LINE. g5 

cross a run of water, he launches a chip or piece of bark into the water, on 
which he embarks, and, holding up his tail to the wind, sails over very safely. 
If this be true, it is probable men learned at first the use of sails from these 
ingenious little animals, as the Hottentots learned the physical use of most of 
their plants from the baboons. 

15th. About three miles from our camp we passed Great creek, and then, 
after traversing very barren grounds for five miles together, we crossed the 
Trading Path, and soon after had the pleasure of reaching the uppermost in- 
habitant. This was a plantation belonging to colonel Mumford, where our 
men almost burst themselves with potatoes and milk. Yet as great a curio- 
sity as a house was to us foresters, still we chose to lie in the tent, as being 
much the cleanlier and sweeter lodging. 

The Trading Path above-mentioned receives its name from being the route 
the traders take with their caravans, when they go to traffic with the Cataw- 
bas and other southern Indians. The Catawbas live about two hundred and 
fifty miles beyond Roanoke river, and yet our traders find their account in 
transporting goods from Virginia to trade with them at their own town. 
The common method of carrying on this Indian commerce is as follows: 
Gentlemen send for goods proper for such a trade from England, and then 
either venture them out at their own risk to the Indian towns, or else credit 
some traders with them of substance and reputation, to be paid in skins at a 
certain price agreed betwixt them. The goods for the Indian trade consist 
chiefly in guns, powder, shot, hatchets, (which the Indians call tomahawks,) 
kettles, red and blue planes, Duffields, Stroudvvater blankets, and some cutle- 
ry wares, brass rings and other trinkets. These wares are made up into 
packs and carried upon horses, each load being from one hundred and fifty 
to two hundred pounds, with which they are able to travel about twenty 
miles a day, if forage happen to be plentiful. Formerly a hundred horses 
have been employed in one of these Indian caravans, under the conduct of 
fifteen or sixteen persons only, but now the trade is much impaired, inso- 
much that they seldom go with half that number. The course from Roanoke 
to the Catawbas is laid down nearest south-west, and lies through a fine 
country, that is watered by several beautiful rivers. Those of the greatest 
note are, first, Tar river, which is the upper part of Pamptico, Flat river, 
Little river and Eno river, all three branches of Neuse. Between Eno and 
Saxapahaw rivers are the Haw old fields, which have the reputation of con- 
taining the most fertile high land in this part of the world, lying in a body of 
about fifty thousand acres. This Saxapahaw is the upper part of Cape Fair 
river, the falls of which lie many miles below the Trading Path. Some moun- 
tains overlook this rich spot of land, from whence all the soil washes down 
into the plain, and is the cause of its exceeding fertility. Not far from thence 
the path crosses Aramanchy river, a branch of Saxapahaw, and about forty 
miles beyond that. Deep river, which is the north branch of Peedee. Then 
forty miles beyond that, the path intersects the Yadkin, which is there half a 
mile over, and is supposed to be the south branch of the same Peedee. The 
soil is exceedingly rich on both sides the Yadkin, abounding in rank grass 
and prodigiously large trees; and for plenty offish, fowl and venison, is infe- 
rior to no part of the northei-n continent. There the traders commonly lie 
still for some days, to recruit their horses' flesh as well as to recover their 
own spirits. Six miles further is Crane creek, so named from its being the 
rendezvous of great armies of cranes, which wage a more cruel war at this 
day, MMth the frogs and the fish, than they used to do with the pigmies in the 
days of Homer. About three-score miles more bring you to the first town 
of the Catawbas, called Nauvasa, situated on the banks of Santee river. 
Besides this town there are five others belonging to the same nation, lying 

M 



86 



THE HISTORY OF 



all on the same stream, within the distance of twenty miles. These Indians 
were all called formerly by the general name of the Usherees, and were a 
very numerous and powerful people. But the frequent slaughters made upon 
them by the northern Indians, and, wiiat has been still more destructive by 
far, the intemperance and foul distempers introduced amongst them by the 
Carolina traders, have now reduced their numbers to little more than four 
hundred fighting men, besides women and children. It is a charming place 
where they live, the ah' very wholesome, the soil fertile, and the winters ever 
mild and serene. 

In Santee river, as in several others of Carolina, a small kind of alligator 
is frequently seen, which perfumes the water with a musky smell. They sel- 
dom exceed eight feet in length in these parts, whereas, near the equinoctial, 
they come up to tv/elve or fourteen. And the heat of the climate does not 
only make them bigger, but more fierce and voracious. They watch the 
cattle there when they come to drink and cool themselves in the river ; and 
because they are not able to drag them into the deep water, they make up 
by stratagem what they want in force. They swallow great stones, the 
weight of which being added to their strength, enables them to tug a mode- 
rate cow under water, and as soon as they have drowned her, they discharge 
the stones out of their maw and then feast upon the carcass. However, as fierce 
and as strong as these monsters are, the Indians will surprise them napping 
as they float upon the surface, get astride upon their necks, then whip a short 
piece of wood like a truncheon into their jaws, and holding the ends with 
their two hands, hinder them from diving by keeping their mouths open, and 
when they are almost spent, they will make to the shore, where their riders 
knock them on the head and eat them. This amphibious animal is a smaller 
kind of crocodile, having the same shape exactly, only the crocodile of the 
Nile is twice as long, being when full grown from twenty to thirty feet. 
This enormous length is the more to be wondered at, because the crocodile 
is hatched from an egg very little larger than that of a goose. It has a long 
head, which it can open very wide, with very sharp and strong teeth. Their 
eyes are small, their legs short, with claws upon their feet. Their tail makes 
half the length of theu- body, and the whole is guarded with hard impenetra- 
ble scales, except the belly, which is much softer and smoother. They keep 
much upon the land in the day time, but towards the evening retire into the 
water to avoid the cold dews of the night. They run pretty fast right for- 
ward, but are very awkward and slow in turning, by reason of their un- 
wieldy length. It is an error that they have no tongue, without which they 
could hardly swallow their food ; but in eating they move the upper jaw only, 
contrary to all other animals. The way of catching them in Egypt is, with 
a strong hook fixed to the end of a chain and baited with a joint of pork, 
which they are very fond of But a live hog is generally tied near, the cry 
of which allures them to the hook. This account of the crocodile will agree 
in most particulars with the alligator, only the bigness of the last cannot enti- 
tle it to the name of " leviathan," which Job gave formerly to the crocodile, 
and not to the whale, as some interpreters would make us believe.. 

So soon as the Catawba Indians are informed of the approach of the Vir- 
ginia caravans, they send a detachment of their warriors to bid them wel- 
come, and escort them safe to their town, where they are received with great 
marks of distinction. And their courtesies to the Virginia traders, I dare 
say, are very sincere, because they sell them better goods and better penny- 
worths than the traders of Carolina. They commonly reside among the 
Indians till they have bartered their guods away for skins, with which they 
load their horses and come buck by the same path they went. There are 
generally some Carolina trader.s that cunstantly live among the Catawbas, 



THE DIVIDING LINE. §-7 

and pretend to exercise a dictatorial authority over them. These petty rulers 
do not only teach the honester savages all sorts of debauchery, but are unfair 
in their dealings, and use them with all kinds of oppression. Nor has their 
behaviour been at all better to the rest of the Indian nations, among whom 
they reside, by abusing their women and evil-entreating their men ; and, by 
the way, this was the true reason of the fatal war which the nations round- 
about made upon Carolina in the year 17Io. Then it was that all the neigh- 
bouring Indians, grown weary of the tyranny and injustice with which they 
had been abused for many years, resolved to endure their bondage no longer, 
but entered into a general confederacy against their oppressors of Carolina. 
The Indians opened the war by knocking most of those little tyrants on the 
head that dwelt amongst them, under pretence of regulating their commerce, 
and from thence carried their resentment so far as to endanger both North 
and South Carolina. 

1 6th. We gave orders that the horses should pass Roanoke river at Moni- 
sep ford, while most of the baggage was transported in a canoe. We landed 
at the plantation of Cornelius Keith, where I beheld the wretchedest scene of 
poverty I had ever met with in this happy part of the world. The man, his 
wife and six small children, lived in a pen, like so many cattle, without any 
roof over their heads but that of heaven. And this was their airy residence in 
the day time, but then there was a fodder stack not far from this inclosure, 
in which the whole family sheltered themselves at night and in bad weather. 
However, it was almost worth while to be as poor as this man was, to be as 
perfectly contented. All his wants proceeded from indolence, and not from 
misfortune. He had good land, as well as good health and good limbs to 
work it, and, besides, had a trade very useful to all the inhabitants round 
about. He could make and set up quern stones very well, and had proper 
materials for that purpose just at hand, if he could have taken the pains to 
fetch them. There is no other kind of mills in those remote parts, and, there- 
fore, if the man would have worked at his trade, he might have lived very 
comfortably. The poor woman had a little more industry, and spun cotton 
enough to make a thin covering for her own and her children's nakedness. 
I am sorry to say it, but idleness is the general character of the men in the 
southern parts of this colony as well as in North Carolina. The air is so 
mild, and the soil so fruitful, that very little labour is required to fill their bel- 
lies, especially where the woods afford such plenty of game. These advan- 
tages discharge the men from the necessity of killing themselves with work, 
and then for the other article of raiment, a very little of that will suffice in 
so temperate a climate. But so much as is absolutely necessary falls to the 
good women's share to provide. They all spin, weave and knit, whereby 
they make a good shift to clothe the whole family ; and to their credit be it 
recorded, many of them do it very completely, and thereby reproach their 
husbands' laziness in the most inoffensive way, that is to say, by discovering 
a better spirit of industry in themselves. 

From hence we moved forward to colonel Mumford's other plantation, 
under the care of Miles Riley, where, by that gentleman's directions, we 
were again supplied with many good things. Here it was we discharged 
our worthy friend and fellow traveller, Mr. Bearskin, who had so plentifully sup- 
plied us with provisions during our long expedition. We rewarded him to 
his heart's content, so that he returned to his town loaded with riches and 
the reputation of having been a great discoverer. 

17th. This being Sunday, we were seasonably put in mind how much we 
were obliged to be thankful for our happy return to the inhabitants. Indeed, 
we had great reason to reflect with gratitude on the signal mercies we had 
received. First, that we ha>l, day by day, been fed by the bountiful hand of 



88 



THE HISTORY OF 



Providence in the desolate wilderness, insumuch that if any of uur people 
wanted one single meal during the whole expedition, it was entirely owing 
to their own imprudent management. Secondly, that not one man of 
our whole company liad any violent distemper or bad accident befall him, 
from one end of the line to the other. The very worst that happened was, 
that one of them gave himself a smart cut on the pan of his knee with a 
tomahawk, which we had the good fortune to cure in a short time, without 
the help of a surgeon. As for the misadventures of sticking in the mire and 
falling into rivers and creeks, they were rather subjects of mirth than 
complaint, and served only to diversify our travels with a little farcical varie- 
ty. And, lastly, that many uncommon incidents have concurred to prosper 
our undertaking. We had not only a dry spring before we went out, but 
the preceding winter, and even a year or two before, had been much drier 
than ordinary. This made not only the Dismal, but likewise most of the 
sunken grounds near the sea-side, just hard enough to bear us, which other- 
wise had been quite impassable. And the whole time we were upon the bu- 
siness, which was in all about sixteen weeks, we were never caught in the 
rain except once, nor was our progress interrupted by bad weather above 
three or four days at most. Besides all this, we were surprised by no Indian 
enemy, but all of us brought our scalps back safe upon our heads. This 
cruel method of scalping of enemies is practised by all the savages in Ameri- 
ca, and perhaps is not the least proof of their original from the northern in- 
habitants of Asia. Among the ancient Scythians it was constantly used, 
who carried about these hairy scalps as trophies of victory. They served 
them too as towels at home, and trappings for their horses abroad. But 
these were not content with the skin of their enemies' heads, but also made 
use of their sculls for cups to drink out of upon high festival days, and made 
greater ostentation of them than if they had been made of gold or the purest 
crystal. 

Besides the duties of the day. we christened one of our men who had been 
bred a quaker. The man desired this of his own mere motion, without be- 
ing tampered with by the parson, who was willing every one should go to 
heaven his own way. But whether he did it by the conviction of his own 
reason, or to get rid of some troublesome forms and restraints, to which the 
saints of that persuasion are subject, I cannot positively say. 

18th. We proceeded over a level road twelve miles, as far as George 
Hixe's plantation, on the south side of Meherrin river, our course being for 
the most part north-east. By the way we hired a cart to transport our bag- 
gage, that we might the better befriend our jaded horses. Within two miles 
of our journey's end this day, we met the express we had sent the Saturday 
before to give notice of our arrival. He had been almost as expeditious as a 
carrier pigeon, riding in two days no less than two hundred miles. 

All the grandees of tlie Sapponi nation did us the honour to repair hither 
to meet us, and our worthy friend and fellow traveller, Bearskin, appeared 
among the gravest of them in his robes of ceremony. Four young ladies of 
the first quality came with them, who had more the air of cleanliness than 
any copper-coloured beauties I had ever seen ; yet we resisted all their 
charms, notwithstanding the long fast we had kept from the sex, and the bear 
diet we had been so long engaged in. Nor can I say the price they set upon 
their charms was at all exorbitant. A princess for a pair of red stockings 
cannot, surely, be thought buying repentance much too dear. The men had 
something great and venerable in their countenances, beyond the common 
mien of savages; and indeed they ever had the reputation of being the ho- 
nestest, as well as the bravest Indians we have ever been acquainted with. 
This people is now made up of the remnants of several other nations, of 



THE DIVlUINfJ LINE. S9 

which the most considerable are the Sapponies, the Occaneclies, and Stouken- 
hocks, who not finding themselves separately numei-ous enough for their de- 
fence, have agreed to unite into one body, and all of them now go under the 
name of the Sapponies. Each of these was formerly a distinct nation, or 
rather a several clan or canton of the same nation, speaking the same lan- 
guage, and using the same customs. But their perpetual wars against all 
other Indians, in time, reduced them so low as to make it necessary to join 
their forces together. They dwelt formerly not far below the mountains, up- 
on Yadkin river, about two hundred miles west and by south from the falls of 
Roanoke. But about twenty-five years ago they took refuge in Virginia, 
being no longer in condition to make head not only against the northern In- 
dians, who are their implacable enemies, but also against most of those to 
the south. All the nations round about, bearing in mind the havoc these 
Indians used formerly to make among their ancestors in the insolence of 
their power, did at length avenge it home upon them, and made them glad to 
apply to this government for protection. Colonel Spotswood, our then lieu- 
tenant governor, having a good opinion of their fidelity and courage, settled 
them at Christanna, ten miles north of Roanoke, upon the belief that the)*- 
would be a good barrier, on that side of the country, against the incursion of 
all foreign Indians. And in earnest they would have served well enough for 
that purpose, if the white people in the neighbourhood had not debauched 
their morals, and ruined their health with rum, which was the cause of many 
disorders, and ended at last in a barbarous murder committed by one of 
these Indians when he was drunk, for which the poor wretch was executed 
when he was sober. It was matter of great concern to them, however, that 
one of their grandees should be put to so ignominious a death. All Indians 
have as great an aversion to hanging as the Muscovites, though perhaps not 
for the same cleanly reason : these last believing that the soul of one that 
dies in this manner, being forced to sally out of the body at the postern, must 
needs be defiled. The Sapponies took this execution so much to heart, that 
they soon after quitted their settlement and removed in a body to the Ca- 
tawbas. The daughter of the Tetero king went away with the Sapponies, 
but being the last of her nation, and fearing she should not be treated ac- 
cording to her rank, poisoned herself, like an old Roman, with the root of 
the trumpet plant. Her father died two years before, who was the most 
intrepid Indian we have been acquainted with. He had made himself terri- 
ble to all other Indians by his exploits, and had escaped so many dangers 
that he was esteemed invulnerable. But at last he died of a pleurisy, the 
last man of his race and nation, leaving only that unhappy daughter behind 
him, who would not long survive him. 

The most uncommon circumstance in this Indian visit was, that they all 
came on horse-back, which was certainly intended for a piece of state, be- 
cause the distance was but three miles, and it is hkely they had walked on 
foot twice as far to catch their horses. The men rode more awkwardly than 
any Dutch sailor, and the ladies bestrode their palfreys a la mode de France, 
but were so bashful about it, that there was no persuading" them to mount till 
they were quite out of our sight. The French women used to ride a-strad- 
dle, not so much to make them sit firmer in the saddle, as from the hopes the 
same thing might peradventure befall them that once happened to the nun of 
Orleans, who, escaping out of a nunnery, took post en cavalier, and in ten 
miles' hard riding had the good fortune to have all the tokens of a man break 
out upon her. This piece of history ought to be the more credible, because 
it leans upon much the same degree of proof as the tale of bishop Burnet's 
two Italian nuns, who, according to his lordship's account, underwent the 
same happy metamorphosis, probably by some other violent exercise. 



90 IHE HISTORY OF 

19th. Prom hence we despatched the cart with our baggage under a 
guard, and crossed Meherrin river, which was not thirty yards wide at that 
place. By the help of fresh horses, that had been sent us, we now began to 
mend our pace, which was also quickened by the strong inclinations we had 
to get home. In the distance of five miles we forded Meherrin creek, which 
was very near as broad as the river. About eight miles farther we came to 
Sturgeon creek, so called from the dexterity an Occanechy Indian showed 
there in catching one of those royal fish, which was perfoi'med after the fol- 
lowing manner. In the summer time it is no unusual thing for sturgeons to 
sleep on the surface of the water, and one of them having wandered up into 
this creek in the spring, was floating in that drowsy condition. The Indian, 
above-mentioned, ran up to the neck into the creek a little below the place 
where he discovered the fish, expecting the stream would soon bring his 
game down to him. He judged the matter right, and as soon as it came 
within his reach, he whipped a running noose over his jole. This waked the 
sturgeon, which being strong in its own element darted immediately under 
water and dragged the Indian after him. The man made it a point of honour 
to keep his hold, which he did to the apparent danger of being drowned. 
Sometimes both the Indian and the fish disappeared for a quarter of a mi- 
nute, and then rose at some distance from where they dived. At this rate 
they continued flouncing about, sometimes above and sometimes under wa- 
ter, for a considerable time, till at last the hero suffocated his adversary, and 
hauled his body ashore in triumph. 

About six miles beyond that, we passed over Wicco-quoi creek, named so 
from the multitude of rocks over which the water tumbles, in a fresh, with a 
bellowing noise. Not far from where we went over, is a rock much higher 
than the rest, that strikes the eye with agreeable horror, and near it a very 
talkative echo, that, like a fluent help-mate, will return her good man seven 
words for one, and after all be sure to have the last. It speaks not only the 
language of men, but also of birds and beasts, and often a single wild goose 
is cheated into the belief that some of his company are not far off", by hear- 
ing his own cry multiplied ; and it is pleasant to see in what a ffutter the poor 
bird is, when he finds himself disappointed. On the banks of this creek are 
very broad low-grounds in many places, and abundance of good high-land, 
though a little subject to floods. 

We had but two miles more to captain Embry's, where we found the 
housekeeping much better than the house. Our bountiful landlady had set 
her oven and all her spits, pots, gridirons and saucepans to work, to diversify 
our entertainment, though after all it proved but a Mahometan feast, there 
being nothing to drink but water. The worst of it was, we had unluckily 
outrode the baggage, and for that reason were obliged to lodge very socia- 
bly in the same apartment with the family, where, reckoning women and 
children, we mustered in all no less than nine persons, who all pigged loving- 
ly together. 

20th. In the morning colonel Boiling, who had been surveying in the 
neighbourhood, and Mr. Walker, who dwelt not far off", came to visit us ; and 
the last of these worthy gentlemen, fearing that our drinking so much water 
might incline us to pleurisies, brought us a kind supply both of wine and 
cider. It was noon before we could disengage ourselves from the courtesies 
of this place, and then the two gentlemen above-mentioned were so good as 
to accompany us that day's journey, though they could by no means approve 
of our Lithuanian fashion of dismounting now and then, in order to walk 
part of the way on foot. We crossed Nottoway river not far from our land- 
lord's house, where it seemed to be about twenty-five yards over. This 
river divides the county of Prince George from that of Brunswick. We had 



THE DlVlDlx\G LINE 9| 

not gone eight miles farther before our eyes were blessed witli the sight of 
Sapponi chapel, which was the first house of prayer we had seen for more 
than two calendar months. About three miles beyond that, we passed over 
Stony creek, where one of those that guarded the baggage killed a polecat, 
upon which he made a comfortable repast. Those of his company were so 
squeamish they could not be persuaded at first to taste, as they said, of so un- 
savoury an animal ; but seeing the man smack his lips with more pleasure 
than usual, they ventured at last to be of his mess, and instead of finding the 
flesh rank and high-tasted, they owned it to be the sweetest morsel they had 
ever eaten in their lives. The ill savour of this little beast lies altogether in 
its urine, which nature has made so detestably ill-scented on purpose to fur- 
nish a helpless creature with something to defend itself For as some brutes 
have horns and hoofs, and others are armed with claws, teeth and tusks for 
their defence ; and as some spit a sort of poison at their adversaries, like the 
paco ; and others dart quills at their pursuers, like the porcupine ; and as 
some have no weapons to help themselves but their tongues, and others none 
but their tails ; so the poor polecat's safety lies altogether in the irresistible 
stench of its water ; insomuch that when it finds itself in danger from an 
enemy, it moistens its bushy tail plentifully with this liquid ammunition, and 
then, with great fury, sprinkles it like a shower of rain full into the eyes of 
its assailant, by which it gains time to make its escape. Nor is the polecat 
the only animal that defends itself by a stink. At the cape of Good Hope is 
a little beast, called a stinker, as big as a fox, and shaped like a ferret, which 
being pursued has no way to save itself but by ejecting its wind and excre- 
ments, and then such a stench ensues that none of its pursuers can possibly 
stand it. 

At the end of thirty good miles, we arrived in the evening at colonel Boi- 
ling's, where first, from a primitive course of life, we began to relapse into 
luxury. This gentleman lives within hearing of the falls of Appomattox 
river, which are very noisy whenever a flood happens to roll a greater 
stream than ordinary over the rocks. The river is navigable for small craft 
as high as the falls, and at some distance from thence fetches a compass, and 
runs nearly parallel with James river almost as high as the mountains. While 
the commissioners fared sumptuously here, the poor chaplain and two sur- 
veyors, having stopped ten miles short at a poor planter's house, in pity to 
their horses, made a St. Anthony's meal, that is, they supped upon the 
pickings of what stuck in their teeth ever since breakfast. But to make 
them amends, the good man laid them in hi§ own bed, where they all three 
nestled together in one cotton sheet and one of brown oznaburgs, made still 
something browner by two months' copious perspiration. But those worthy 
gentlemen were so alert in the morning after their light supper, that they 
came up with us before breakfast, and honestly paid their stomachs all they 
owed them. 

21st. We made no more than a Sabbath day's journey from this to the 
next hospitable house, namely, that of our great benefactor, colonel Mumford. 
We had already been much befriended by this gentleman, who, besides send- 
ing orders to his overseers at Roanoke to let us want for nothing, had, in the 
beginning of our business, been so kind as to recommend most of the men 
to us who were the faithful partners of our fatigue. Although in most other 
achievements those who command are apt take all the honour to themselves 
of what perhaps was more owing to the vigour of those who were under 
them, yet I must be more just, and allow these brave fellows their full share 
of credit for the service we performed, and must declare, that it was in a 
great measure owing to their spirit and indefatigable industry that we over- 



92 THE HISTORY OF 

came many obstacles in the course of our line, which till then had been 
esteemed insurmountable. Nor must I at the same time omit to do justice to 
the surveyors, and particularly to Mr. Mayo, who, besides an eminent degree 
of skill, encountered the same hardships and underwent the same fatigue that 
the forwardest of the men did, and that with as much cheerfulness as if pain 
had been his pleasure, and difficulty his real diversion. Here we discharged 
the few men we had left, who were all as ragged as the Gibeonite ambassa- 
dors, though, at the same time, their rags were very honourable, by the ser- 
vice they had so vigorously performed in making them so. 

22d. A little before noon we all took leave and dispersed to our several habita- 
tions, where we were so happy as to find all our families well. This crowned 
all our other blessings, and made our journey as prosperous as it had been 
painful. Thus ended our second expedition, in which we extended the line 
within the shadow of the Chariky mountains, where we were obliged to set 
up our pillars, like Hercules, and return home. We had now, upon the 
whole, been out about sixteen weeks, including going and returning, and had 
travelled at least six hundred miles, and no small part of that distance on foot. 
Below, towards the seaside, our course lay through marshes, swamps, and 
great waters ; and above, over steep hills, craggy rocks, and thickets, hardly 
penetrable. Notwithstanding this variety of hardships, we may say, without 
vanity, that we faithfully obeyed the king's orders, and performed the busi- 
ness effectually, in which we had the honour to be employed. Nor can we by 
any means reproach ourselves of having put the crown to any exorbitant ex- 
pense in this difficult affair, the whole charge, from beginning to end, amount- 
ing to no more that one thousand pounds. But let no one concerned in this 
painful expedition complain of the scantiness of his pay, so long as his majesty 
has been graciously pleased to add to our reward the honour of his royal appro- 
bation, and to declare, notwithstanding the desertion of the Carolina commis- 
sioners, that the line by us run shall hereafter stand as the true boundary be- 
twixt the governments of Virginia and North Carolina. 



The Names of the Commissioners to direct the running of the Ldne between 
Virginia and North Carolina. 

William Byrd, * ^ 

Richard Fitz-william, > Esquires, Commissioners for Virginia. 

William Dandridge, y 



Christopher Gale, 
John Lovewick, 
Edward Moseley, 
William Little, 



Esquires, Commissioners for Carolina. 



Alexander Irvin, 
William Mayo, 



I Surveyors for Virginia. 

> Surveyors for N. Carolina. 
The Reverend Peter Fountain, Chaplain. 



Edward Moseley, 
Samuel Swan, 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 



93 



Names of the Men employed on the part of Virginia to ran the Line between 
that Colony and North Carolina. 



ON THE FIRST EXPEDITION. 

1 . Peier Jones, 

2. Thomas Jones, 

3. Thomas Short, 

4. Robert Hix, 

5. John Evans, 

6. Stephen Evans, 

7. John Ellis, 

8. John Ellis, Jr. 

9. Thomas Wilson, 

10. George Tilman, 

11. Charles Kimbal, 

12. George Hamilton, 

13. Robert Allen, 

14. Thomas Jones, Jr. 

1 5. J-ames Petillo, 

16. Richard Smith, 

17. John Rice. 



ON THE SECOND EXPEDITION. 

Peter Jones, 
Thomas Jones, 
Thomas Short, 
Robert Hix, 
John -Evans, 
Stephen Evans, 
John Ellis, 
John Ellis, Jr. 
Thomas Wilson, 
George Tilman, 
Charles Kimbal, 
George Hamilton, 
Thomas Jones, Jr. 
James Petillo, 
Richard Smith, 
Abraham Jones, 
Edward Powell, 
William Pool, 
William Calvert, 
James Whitlock, 
Thomas Page. 



Account of the Expense of running the Line between Virginia and North 

Carolina. 



To the men's wages in current money 

To sundry disbursements for provisions, &c. 

To paid the men for seven horses lost 



The sum of £495 1 1 6 current money reduced at 15 per cent. 

sterling amounts to 

To paid to colonel Byrd 

To paid to colonel Dandridge - - - - - 

To paid Mr. Fitz-william 

To paid to the chaplain, Mr. Fountain 

To paid to Mr. William Mayo 

To paid to Mr. Alexander Irvin 

To paid for a tent and marquis 



This sum was discharged by a warrant out of his majesty's quitrents from 
the lands in Virginia. 

N 



£277 


10 





174 


01 


6 


44 








£495 


11 


6 


£430 


8 


ID 


142 


5 


7 


142 


5 


7 


94 








20 








75 








75 








20 








£1000 









94 



THE HISTORY OF 



APPENDIX 



To the foregoing journal, containing tlie second charter to the proprietors of 
Carolina, confirming and enlarging the first, and also several other acts 
to which it refers. These are placed by themselves at the end of the book, 
that they may not interrupt the thread of the story, and the reader will be 
more at liberty whether he will please to read thenf or not, being something 
dry and unpleasant. 



The second Charier granted by King Charles II. to the Proprietors of 

Carolina.* 

Charles, by the grace of God, &c. : Whereas, by our letters patent, bear- 
ing date the four and twentieth day of March, in the fifteenth year of our 
reign, we were graciously pleased to grant unto our right trusty and right 
well beloved cousin and counsellor, Edward, earl of Clarendon, our high 
chancellor of England, our right trusty and right entirely beloved cousin 
and counsellor, George, duke of Albemarle, master of our horse, our right 
trusty and well beloved William, now earl of Craven, our right trusty and 
well beloved counsellor, Anthony, lord Ashley, chancellor of our exchequer, 
our right trusty and well beloved counsellor, sir George Carterett, knight 
and baronet, vice chamberlain of our household, our right trusty and well 
beloved, sir John Colleton, knight and baronet, and sir William Berkley, 
knight, all that province, territory, or tract of ground, called. Carolina, situate, 
lying and being within our dominions of America, extending from the north 
end of the island called Luke island, which lies in the southern Virginia seas, 
and within six and thirty degrees of the northern latitude ; and to the west, 
as far as the South seas ; and so respectively as far as the river of Mathias, 
which bordereth upon the coast of Florida, and within one and thirty de- 
grees of the northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South 
seas aforesaid. Now know ye, that, at the humble request of the said 
grantees in the aforesaid letters patent named, and as a further mark of our 
especial favour towards them, we are graciously pleased to enlarge our said 
grant unto them according to the bounds and limits hereafter specified, and 
in favour to the pious and noble purpose of the'said Edward, earl of Claren- 
don, George, duke of Albemarle, William, earl of Craven, John, lord Berkley, 
Anthony, lord Ashley, sir George Carterett, sir John Colleton and sir William 
Berkley, we do give and grant to them, their heirs and assigns, all that pro- 
vince, territory, or tract of ground, situate, lying and being within our do- 
minions of America aforesaid, extending north and eastward as far' as the 
north end of Coratuck river or inlet, upon a straight westerly line to Wya- 
noke creek, which lies within or about the degrees of thirty-six and thirty 
minutes northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South 
seas ; and south and westward as- far as the degrees of twenty-nine inclu- 
sive northern latitude, and so west in a direct line as far as the South seas; 
together with all and singular ports, harbours, bays, rivers and inlets belong- 
ing unto the province or territory aforesaid. And also, all the soil, lands, 
fields, woods, mountains, ferms, lakes, rivers, bays and inlets, situate, or be- 

* As thi3 cl)aiter is very long, and but a small portion of it has any relation to flie sub- 
ject of dispute between the two coJonies, no more will be inserted here than so much as 
precedes and embraces the matter in contro\-ersy.- Editor. 



THE DIVIDING LINE. 95 

ing within the bounds or limits last before mentioned : with the fishing of all 
sorts of fisli, wliales, sturgeons, and all other royal fishes in the sea, bays, in- 
lets, and rivers, within the premises, and the fish therein taken ; together 
with the royalty of the sea, upon the coast within the limits aforesaid. And 
moreover, all veins, mines and quarries, as well discovered as not discovered, 
of gold, silver, gems and precious stones, and all other whatsoever; be it 
of stones, metals or any other thing found or to be found within the province, 
territory, inlets and limits aforesaid. * * * * 



At the Court of St. James, the 1st day of Mardh, 1710. — Present, the Queen's 
most excellent raajesty in Council. 

Upon reading this, day at the board a representation from the right ho- 
nourable the lords commissioners for trade and plantations, in the words 
following: In pursuance of your majesty's pleasure, commissioners have 
been appointed on the part of your majesty's colony of Virginia, as likewise 
on the part of the province of C&rolina, for the settling the bounds between 
those governments; and they have met several times for that purpose, but have 
not agreed upon any one point thereof, by reason of the trifling delays of the 
Carolina commissioners, and of the many difficulties by them raised in rela- 
tion to the proper observations and survey they were to make. However, 
the commissioners for Virginia have delivered to your majesty's lieutenant 
governor of that colony an account of their proceedings, which account 
has been under the consideration of your majesty's council of Virginia, and 
they have made a report thereon to the said lieutenant governor, who having 
lately transmitted unto us a copy of that report, we take leave humbly to lay 
the substance thereof before your majesty, which is as follows: 

That the commissioners of Carolina are both of them persons engaged in 
interest to obstruct the settling the boundaries between that province and 
the colony of Virginia ; for one of them has for several years been surveyor 
general of Carolina, has acquired to himself great profit by surveying lands 
within the controverted bounds, and has taken up several tracts of land in 
his own name, and sold the same to others, for which he stands still obliged 
to obtain patents from the government of Carolina. The other of them is at 
this time surveyor general, and hath the same prospect of advantage by 
making future surveys within the said bounds. That the behavior of the 
Carolina commissioners has tended visibly to no other end than to protract 
and defeat the settling this affair : and particularly Mr. Moseley has used 
so many shifts and excuses to disappoint all conferences with the commis- 
sioners of Virginia, as plainly show his aversion to proceed in a business that 
tends so manifestly to his disadvantage. His prevaricating on this occasion 
has been so indiscreet and so unguarded, as to be discovered in the presence 
of the lieutenant governor of Virginia. He started so many objections 
to the powers granted to the commissioners of that colony, with design to 
render their conferences ineffectual, that his joint commissioner could hardly 
find an excuse for him. And when the lieutenant governor had with much 
ado prevailed with the said Mr. Moseley to appoint a time for meeting the 
commissioners of Virginia, and for bringing the necessary instruments to 
take the latitude of the bounds in dispute, which instruments he owned were 
ready in Carolina, he not only failed to comply with his own appointment, 
but after the commissioners of Virginia had made a journey to his house, and 
had attended him to the places proper for observing the latitude, he would 
not take the ti'ouble of carrying his own instrument, but contented himself 



96 



THE HISTORY OF 



to find fault with the quadrant produced by the Virginia commissioners, 
though that instrument had been approved by the best mathematicians.and 
is of universal use. From all which it is evident how little hopes there are 
of settling the boundaries above-mentioned, in concert with the present com- 
missioners for Carolina. That though the bounds of the Carolina charter 
are in express words limited to Weyanoke creek, lying in or about 36° 30' 
of nortliern latitude, yet the commissioners for Carohna have not by any of 
their evidences pretended to prove any such place as Weyanoke creek, the 
amount of their evidence reaching no further than to prove which is Weya- 
noke river, and even that is contradicted by affidavit taken on the part of 
Virginia ; by which affidavits it appears that, before the date of the Carolina 
charter to this day, the place they pretend to be Weyanoke river was, and 
is still, called Nottoway river. But supposing the same had been called 
Weyanoke river, it can be nothing to their purpose, there being a great dif- 
ference between a river and a creek. Besides, in that country there are 
divers rivers and creeks of the same name, as Potomac river, and Potomac 
creek, Rappahannock river, and Rappahannock creek, and several others, 
though there are many mfles' distance between the mouths of these rivers 
and the mouths of these creeks. It is also observable, that the witnesses on 
the part of Carolina are all very ignorant persons, and most of them of ill 
fame and reputation, on which account they had been forced to remove from 
Virginia to Carolina. Further, there appeared to be many contradictions in 
their testimonies, whereas, on the other hand, the witnesses to prove that the 
right to those lands is in the government of Virginia are persons of good 
credit, their knowledge of the lands in question is more ancient than any of 
the witnesses for Carolina, and their evidence fully corroborated by the con- 
current testimony of the tributary Indians. And that right is farther con- 
firmed by the observations lately taken of the latitude in those parts, by 
which it is plain, that the creek proved to be Weyanoke creek by the Vir- 
ginia evidences, and sometimes called Wicocon, answers best to the latitude 
described in the Carolina charter, for it lies in thirty-six degrees, forty 
minutes, which is ten minutes to the northward of the limits described in 
the Carolina grant, whereas Nottoway river, lies exactly in the latitude of 
thirty-seven degrees, and can by no construction be supposed to be the boun- 
dary described in their charter ; so that upon the whole matter, if the com- 
missioners of Carolina had no other view than to clear the just right of the 
proprietors, such undeniable demonstrations would be sufficient to convince 
them ; but the said commissioners give too much cause to suspect that they 
mix their own private interest with the claim of the proprietors, and for that 
reason endeavour to gain time in order to obtain grants for the land already 
taken up, and also to secure the rest on this occasion, we take notice, that 
they proceed to survey the land in dispute, notwithstanding the assurance 
given by the government of Carolina to the contrary by their letter of the 
17th of June, 1707, to the government of Virginia, by which letter they pro- 
mised that no lands should be taken up within the controverted bounds till 
the same were settled. 

Whereupon we humbly propose, that the lords proprietors be acquainted 
with the foregoing complaint of the trifling delays of their commissioners, 
which delays it is reasonable to believe have proceeded from the self-interest 
of those commissioners, and that therefore your majesty's pleasure be signi- 
fied to the said lords proprietors, that by the first opnortunity they send 
orders to their governor or commander in chief of Carolina for the time 
being, to issue forth a new commission, to the purport of that lately issued, 
thereby constituting two other persons, not having any personal interest in, 
or claim to, any of the land lying within the boundary, in the room of Rd- 



THK DlVIDINti LINE. 97 

ward Moseley and John Lawson. The Carolina <:omniissioners to be appoint- 
ed being strictly required to finish their survey, and to make a return 
thereof in conjunction with the Virginia commissioners, within six montlis, 
to be computed from the time, that due notice shall be given by your majes- 
ty's lieutenant governor of Virginia to the governor or commander in chief 
of Carolina, of the time and place, which your majesty's said lieutenant 
governor shall appoint for the first meeting of the commissioners on one 
part and the other. In order whereunto VvC humbly ofier, that directions be 
sent to the said lieutenant governor, to give such notice accordingly ; and 
if after notice so given, the Carolina commissioners shall refuse or neglect 
to join with those on the part of Virginia, in making such survey, as likewise 
a return thereof within the time before mentioned ; that then and in such 
case the commissioners on the part of Virginia be directed to draw up an 
account of the proper observations and survey which they shall have made 
for ascertaining the Joounds between Virginia and Carolina, and to deliver 
the same in writing under their hands and seals to the lieutenant governor 
and council of Virginia, to the end the same may be laid before your majesty, 
for your majesty's final determination therein, within, with regard to the 
settling of those boundaries; the lords proprietors having, by an instrument 
under their hands, submitted the same to your majesty's royal determination, 
which instrument, dated in March, 1708, is lying in this office. 

And lastly, we humbly propose, that your majesty's further pleasure be 
signified to the said lords proprietors, and in like manner to the lieutenant 
governor of Vijjginia, that no grants be passed by either of those govern- 
ments of any of the lands lying within the controverted bounds, until such 
bounds shall be ascertained and settled as aforesaid, whereby it may appear 
whether those lands do of right belong^ to your majesty, or to the lords pro- 
prietors of Carolina. 

Her majesty in council, approving of the said representation, is pleased to 
order, as it is hereby ordered, that the right honourable the lords commis- 
sioners for trade and plantations do signify her majesty's pleasure herein to 
her majesty's lieutenant governor or commander in chief of Virginia for 
the time being, and to all persons to whom it may belong, as is proposed 
by their lordships in the said representation, and the right honourable the 
lords proprietors of Carolina are to do what on their part does appertain. 

Edward Southwell. 



Proposals for determining the Controversy relating to the bounds bettveen the 
governments of Virginia and North Carolina, most humbly offered for his 
Majesty's royal approbation, and for the consent of the right honourable the 
' Lords Propi'ietors of Carolina. 

Forasmuch as the dispute between the said two governments about their 
true limits continues still, notwithstanding the several meetings of the com- 
missioners, and all the proceedings of many years past, in order to adjust 
that affair, and seeing no speedy determination is likely to ensue, unless 
some medium be found out, in which both parties may incline to acquiesce, 
wherefore both the underwritten governors having met, and considered the 
prejudice both to the king and the lords proprietors' interest, by the con- 
tinuance of this contest, and truly endeavouring a decision, which they 
judge comes nearest the intention of royal charter granted to the lords 
proprietors, do, with the advice and consent of their respective councils, pro- 
pose as follows. 



98 THE HISTORY OF 

That from the mouth of Coratuck river or inlet, and setting the compass 
on the north shore, thereof a due west line be run and fairly marked, and 
if it happen to cut Chowan river, between the mouths of Nottoway river 
and Wicocon creek, then shall the same direct course be continued towards 
the mountains, and be ever deemed the sole dividing line between Virginia 
and Carolina. 

That if the said west line cuts Chowan river to the southward of Wicocon 
creek, then from point of intersection the bounds shall be allowed to continue 
up the middle of the said Chowan river to the middle of the entrance into 
the said Wicocon creek, and from thence a due west line shall divide the 
said two governments. 

That if a due west line shall be found to pass through islands or to cut out 
small slips of land, which might much more conveniently be included in one 
province or the other by natural water bounds, in such cases the persons 
appointed for running the line shall have power to sattle natural bounds, 
provided the commissioners of both sides agree thereto, and that all such 
variations from the west line, be particularly noted in the maps or plats, 
wliich they shall return, to be put upon the records of both governments, 
all which is humbly submitted by 

Charles Eden. 
A. Spotswood. 



Order of the Kmg and Council upon the foregoing projiosais, at the Court of 
St. James, the 26th day of March, 1729. Present, the King's most excel- 
lent majesty in Council. I 

Whereas it has been represented to his majesty at the board, that for ad- 
justing the disputes, which have subsisted for many years past, between the 
colonies of Virginia and North Carolina, concerning their true boundaries, 
the late governors of the said colonies did some time since agree upon cer- 
tain proposals for regulating the said boundaries for the future, to which pro- 
posals the lords proprietors of Carolina have given their assent ; and where- 
as the said proposals were this day presented to his majesty as proper for his 
royal approbation. 

His majesty is thereupon pleased, with the advice of his privy council, to 
approve of the said proposals, a copy whereof is hereunto annexed, and to 
order, as it is hereby ordered, that the governor or commander in chief of the 
colony of Virginia, do settle the said boundaries, in conjunction with the 
governor of North Carolina, agreeably to the said proposals. 

Edward Southwell. 



The Lieutenant Governor of Virginia's Commission in obedience to his Majesty's 

Order. 

George the Second, by the grace of God, of Great Britain, France and 
Ireland king, defender of the faith, to our trusty and well beloved William 
Byrd, Richard Fitz-william, and William Dandridge, Esqrs., members of our 
council of the colony and dominion of Virginia, greccing: Whereas our 
late royal father of blessed memory was graciously pleased, by order in his 
privy council, bearing date the 28th day of March 1727, to approve of cer- 
tain proposals agreed upon by Alexander Spotswood, Esq. late lieutenant 
governor of Virginia, on the one part, and Charles Eden, Esq. late governor 



THE DIVIDING lANh) 99 

of the province of North Carolina, for determining the controversy relating 
to the bounds between the said two governments, and was farther pleased to 
direct and order, that the said boundaries should be laid out and settled 
agreeably to the said proposals. Know ye, therefore, that reposing special 
trust and confidence in your ability and provident circumspection, have as- 
signed, constituted and appointed, and by these presents do assign, constitute 
and appoint you and every of you jointly and severally, our commission- 
ers for and on behalf of our colony and dominion of Virginia, to meet the 
commissioners appointed or to be appointed on the part of the province of 
North CaroHna, and in conjunction with them to ca':.se a line or lines of 
division to be run and marked, to divide the said two governments according 
to the proposals above-mentioned, and the order of our late royal father, 
copies of both which you will herewith receive. And we do further give and 
grant unto you, and in case of the death or absence of any of you, such of 
you as shall be present, full power and authority to treat and agree with the 
said commissioners of the province of North Carolina on such rules and 
methods as you shall judge most expedient for the adjusting and finally de- 
termining all disputes or controversies which may arise, touching any islands 
or other small slips of land which may happen to be intersected or cut oflf by 
the dividing line aforesaid, and which may with more conveniency be in- 
cluded in the one province or the other by natural water bounds, agreeably 
to the pi'oposals aforementioned, and generally to do and perform all matters 
and things requisite for the final determination and settlement of the said 
boundaries, according to the said proposals. And to the end our service 
herein may not be disappointed through the refusal or delay of the commis- 
sioners for the province of North Carolina, to act in conjunction with you in 
settling the boundaries aforesaid, we do hereby give and grant unto you, or 
such of you as shall be present at the time and place appointed for running 
the dividing line aforesaid, full power and authority to cause the said line 
to be run and marked out, conformable to the said proposals, having due re- 
gard to the doing equal justice to us, and to the lords proprietors of Carolina, 
any refusal, disagreement, or opposition of the said commissioners of North 
Carolina notwithstanding. And in that case we do hereby require you to 
make a true report of your proceedings to our lieutenant governor, or com- 
mander in chief of Virginia, in order to be laid before us for our approbation, 
and final determination herein. And in case any person or persons what- 
soever shall presume to disturb, molest or resist you, or any of the officers 
or persons by your direction, In running the said line, and executing the 
powers herein given you, we do by these presents give and grant unto you, 
or such of you as shall be attending the service aforesaid, full power and 
authority by warrant under your or any of your hands and seals, to order 
and command all and every the militia officers in our counties of Princess 
Anne, Norfolk, Nansemond, and Isle of Wight, or other the adjacent 
counties, together with the sheriff of each of the said counties, or 
either of them, to raise the militia and posse of the said several counties, 
for the removing all force and opposition, which shall or may be made to you 
in the due execution of this our commission, and we do hereby will and re- 
quire, as well the officers of the militia, as all other our officers and loving 
subjects within the said counties, and all others whom it may concern, to be 
obedient, aiding and assisting unto you in all and singular the premises. 
And we do in like manner command and require you, to cause fair maps and 
descriptions of the said dividing line, and the remarkable places through 
which it shall pass, to be made and returned to our lieutenant governor or 
commander in chief of our said colony for the time being, in order to be en- 
tered on record in the proper offices within our said colony. Provided that 



100 ''^^^^ HISTORY OF 

you do not, by colour of this our commission, take upon you or determine 
any private man's property, in or to the lands which shall by the said 
dividing line be included within the limits of Virginia, nor of any other mat- 
ter or thing that doth not relate immediately to the adjusting, settling, and 
final determination of the boundary aforesaid, conformable to the proposals 
hereinbefore nientioned, and not otherwise. In witness whereof we have 
caused these presents to be made. Witness our trusty and well beloved 
William Gooch, Esq. our lieutenant governor and commander in chief of our 
colony and dominion of Virginia, under the seal of our said colony, at 
Williamsburg, the 14th day of December, 1727, in the first year of our 
reign. William Goocik 



7'/ie Governor of North Carolina's Commission in obedience to his Majesty's 

Order. 

Sir Richard Everard, baronet, governor, captain general, admiral, and 
commander in chief of the said province : To Christopher Gale, Esq. chief 
justice, John Lovick, Esq., secretary, Edward Moseley, Esq., surveyor general 
and William Little, Esq., attorney general, greeting : Whereas many disputes 
and differences have formerly been between the inhabitants of this province 
and those of his majesty's colony of Virginia, concerning the boundaries and 
limits between the said two governments, which having been duly considered 
by Charles Eden, Esq., late governor of this province, and Alexander Spots- 
wood, Esq., late governor of Virginia, they agreed to certain proposals for de- 
termining the said controversy, and humbly offered the same for his majesty's 
royal approbation, and the consent of the true and absolute lords pro- 
prietors of Carolina. And his majesty having, been pleased to signify his 
royal approbation of those proposals (consented unto by the true and abso- 
lute lords proprietors of Carolina) and given directions for adjusting and 
settling the boundaries as near as may be to the said proposals : 

I, therefore, reposing especial trust and confidence in you, the said Christo- 
pher Gale, John Lovick, Edward Moseley and William Little, to be commis- 
sioners, on the part of the. true and absolute lords proprietors, and that you 
in conjunction with such commissioners as shall be nominated for Virginia, 
use your utmost endeavours, and take all necessary care in adjusting and 
settling the said boundaries, by drawing such a distinct line or lines of divi- 
sion between the said two provinces, as near as reasonable you can to the 
proposals made by the two former governors, and the instructions herewith 
given you. Given at the council chamber in Edenton, under my hand, and 
the seal of the colony, the 21st day of February, anno Domini 1727, and in 
the first year of the reign of our sovereign lord, king George the Second. 

Richard Everard. 



The Protest of the Carolina Commissioners, against our proceeding on the 

Line ivithout them. 

We the underwritten commissioners for the government of North Caro- 
lina, in conjunction with the commissioners on the part of Virginia, having 
run the line for the division of the two colonies from Coratuck inlet, to the 
south branch of Roanoke river; being in the whole about one hundred and. 
seventy miles, and near fifty miles without the inhabitants, being of opinion 
we had run the line as far as would be requisite for a long time, judged the 



THE DIVIDING LINE. JQl 

carrying it farther would be a needless charge and trouble. And the grand 
debate which had so long subsisted between the two governments, about 
Weyanoke river or creek, being settled at our former meeting in the spring, 
when we were ready on our parts to have gone with the line to the utmost 
inhabitants, which if it had been done, the line at any time after might have 
been continued at an easy expense by a surveyor on each side ; and if at 
any time hereafter there should be occasion to carry the line on further than 
we have now run it, which we think will not be in an age or two, it may be 
done in the same easy manner, without the great expense that now attends 
it. And on a conference of all the commissioners, we have communicated 
our sentiments thereon, and declared our opinion, that we had gone as far as 
the service required, and thought proper to proceed no farther ; to which it 
was answered by the commissioners for Virginia, that they should not regard 
what we did, but if we desisted, they would proceed without us. But we, 
conceiving by his majesty's order in council they were directed to act in 
conjunction with the commissioners appointed for Carolina, and' having ac- 
cordingly run the line jointly so far, and exchanged plans, thought they could 
not carry on the bounds singly ; but that their proceedings without us would 
be irregular and invalid, and that it would be no boundary, and thought 
proper to enter our dissent thereto. Wherefore, for the reasons aforesaid, in 
the name of his excellency the lord palatine, and the rest of the true and 
absolute lords proprietors of Carolina, we do hereby dissent and disallow of 
any farther proceeding with the bounds without our concurrence, and pur- 
suant to our instructions do give this our dissent in writing, 

Edward Moseley. 

William Little. 

C. Gale. 
October 7th, 1728. J. Lovick. 



The Ansroer of the Virginia Commissioners to the foregoing Protest. 

Whereas, on the 7th of October last, a paper was delivered to us by the 
commissioners of North Carolina, in the style of a protest, against our carry- 
ing any farther, without them, the dividing line between the two governments, 
we, the underwritten commissioners on the part of Virginia, having maturely 
considered the reasons offered in the said protest, why those gentlemen re- 
tired so soon from that service, beg leave to return the following answer : 

They are pleased in the first place to allege, by way of reason, that hav- 
ing run the line near fifty miles beyond the inhabitants, it was sufficient for 
a long time, in their opinion for an age or two. To this we answer that, by 
breaking off so soon, they did but imperfectly obey his majesty's order, as- 
sented to by the lords proprietors. Tiie plain meaning of that order was, 
to ascertain the bounds betwixt the two governments as far towards the 
mountains as we could, that neither the king's grants may hereafter encroach 
on the lords proprietors', nor theirs on the rights of his majesty. And 
though the distance towards the great mountains be not precisely determin- 
ed, yet surely the west line should be carried as near them as may be, that 
both the king's lands and those of their lordships, may be taken up the 
faster, and that his majesty's subjects may as soon as possible extend them- 
selves to that natural barrier. This they will certainly do in a few years, 
when they know distinctly in which government they may enter for the 
land, as they have already done in the more northern parts of Virginia. So 
that it is strange the Carolina commissioners should affirm, that the distance 
only of fifty miles above the inhabitants would be sufficient io carry the 
O 



102 THE DIVIDING LINE. 

line for an age or two, especially considering that, two or three days before 
the date of their protest, Mr, Mayo had entered with them for two thousand 
acres of land, within five miles of the place where they left off. Besides, if 
we reflect on the richness of the soil in those parts, and the convenience for 
stock, we may foretell, without the spirit of divination, that there will be 
many settlements higher than those gentlemen went, in less than ten years, 
and perhaps in half that time. 

Another reason mentioned in the protest for their retiring so soon from the 
service is, that their going farther would be a needless charge and trouble. 
And they allege that the rest may be done by one surveyor on a side, in an 
easy manner, whenever it shall be thought necessary. 

To this we answer, that frugality for the public is a rare virtue, but when 
the public service must suffer by it, it degenerates into a vice. And this will 
ever be the case when gentlemen execute the orders of their superiors by 
halves. But had the Carolina commissioners been sincerely frugal for their 
government, why did they carry out provisions sufficient to support them 
and their men for ten weeks, when they intended not to tarry half that 
time] This they must own to be true, since they brought one thousand 
pounds of provisions along with them. Now, after so great an expense in 
their preparations, it had been no mighty addition to their charge, had they 
endured the fatigue five or six weeks longer. It would at most have been 
no more than they must be at, whenever they finish their work, even though 
they should fancy it proper to trust a matter of that consequence to the 
management of one surveyor. Such a one must have a number of men 
along with him, both for his assistance and defence, and those men must 
have provisions to support them. 

These are all the reasons tiiese gentlemen think fit to mention in their 
protest, though they had in truth a more powerful argument for retiring so 
abruptly, which, because they forgot, it will be neighbourly to help them out. 
The provisions they intended to bring along with them, for want of horses 
to carry them, were partly dropped by the way, and what they could bring 
was husbanded so ill, that after eighteen days, (which was the whole time 
we had them in our company,) they had no more left, by their own confes- 
sion, than two pounds of biscuit for each man, to carry them home. How- 
ever, though this was an unanswerable reason for gentlemen for leaving the 
business unfinished, it was none at all for us, who had at that time bread 
sufficient for seven weeks longer. Therefore, lest their want of manage- 
ment might put a stop to his majesty's service, and frustrate his royal inten- 
tions, we judged it our duty to proceed without them, and have extended 
the dividing line so far west as to leave the great mountains on each hand 
to the eastward of us. And this we have done with the same fidelity and 
exactness as if the gentlemen had continued with us. Our surveyors 
(whose integrity I am persuaded they will not call in question) continued to 
act under the same oath, which they had done from the beginning. Yet, not- 
withstanding all this, if the government of North Carolina should not hold 
itself bound by that part of the line which we made without the assistance 
of its commissioners, yet we shall have this benefit in it at least, that his ma- 
jesty will know how far his lands reach towards the south, and consequently 
where his subjects may take it up, and how far they may be. granted without 
injustice to the lords proprietors. To this we may also add, that having 
the authority of our commission, to act without the commissioners of 
Carolina, in case of their disagreement or refusal, we thought ourselves bound 
upon their retreat to finish the line without them, lest his majesty's service 
laight sufier by any honour or neglect on their part. 

WlLLfAM DaNDRIDOS, 

Wju.um Eyrb. 



A 

JOURNEY 



THE LAND OF EDEN: 



IN THE YEAR 1733. 



September 1 1th. Having recommended my family to the protection of the 
Ahnighty, I crossed the river with two servants and four horses, and rode to 
Col. Mumford's. There I met my friend, Mr. Banister, who was to be the 
kind companion of my travels. I stayed dinner with the good colonel, while 
Mr. Banister made the best of his way home, to get his equipage ready, in 
order to join me the next day. After dining plentifully, and wishing all that 
was good to the household, I proceeded to major Mumford's, who had also 
appointed to go along with me. I was the more obliged to him, because he 
made me the compliment to leave the arms of a pretty wife, to lie on the cold 
ground for my sake. She seemed to chide me with her eyes, for coming to 
take her bedfellow from her, now the cold weather came on, and to make 
my peace, I was forced to promise to take an abundance of care of him, in 
order to restore him safe and sound to her embraces. 

12th. After the major had cleared his pipes, in calling with much authority 
about him, he made a shift to truss up his baggage about nine o'clock. Near 
the same hour my old fi'iend and fellow traveller, Peter Jones, came to us 
completely accoutred. Then we fortified ourselves with a beefsteak, kissed 
our landlady for good luck, and mounted about ten. The major took one 
Robin Boiling with him, as squire of his body, as well as conductor of his 
baggage. Tom Short had promised to attend me, but had married a wife 
and could not come. We crossed Hatcher's run, Gravelly run. Stony creek, 
and in the distance of about twenty miles reached Sapponi chapel, where 
Mr. Banister joined us. Thus agreeably reinforced we proceeded ten miles 
further, to major Embry's, on the south side of Nottoway river. The major 
was ill of a purging and vomiting, attended with a fever which had brought 
him low ; but I prescribed him a gallon or two of chicken broth, which washed 
him as clean as a gun, and quenched his fever. Here major Mayo met us, well 
equipped for a march into the woods, bringing a surveyor's tent, that would 
shelter a small troop. Young Tom Jones also repaired hither to make his ex- 
cuse ; but old Tom Jones, by the privilege of his age, neither came nor sent, so 
that we were not so strong as we intended, being disappointed of three of our 
ablest foresters. The entertainment we met with was the less sumptuous by 
reason of our landlord's indisposition. On this occasion we were as little trou- 
blesome as possible, by sending part of our company to Richard Birch's, who 
lives just by the bridge over the river. We sent for an old Indian called 
Shacco-Will, living about seven miles off, who reckoned himself seventy- 
eight years old. This fellow pretended he could conduct us to a silver mine, 



J04 A JOURNEY TO 

that lies either upon Eno river, or a creek of it, not far from where the Tus- 
caroras once lived. But by some circumstances in his story, it seems to 
be rather a lead than a silver mine. However, such as it is, he promised to 
go and show it to me whenever I pleased. To comfort his heart, I gave him 
a bottle of rum, with which he made himself very happy, and all the family 
very miserable by the horrible noise he made all night. 

13th. Our landlord had great relief from my remedy, and found himself 
easy this morning. On this account we took our departure with more satis- 
faction, about nine, and having picked up our friends at Mr. Birch's, pursued 
our journey over Q,uoique creek, and Sturgeon run, as far as Brunswick 
court house, about twelve miles beyond Nottoway. By the way, I sent a 
runner half a mile out of the road to Col. Drury Stith's, who was so good as 
to come to us. We cheered our hearts with three bottles of pretty good 
Madeira, which made Drury talk very hopefully of his copper mine. We 
easily prevailed with him to let us have his company, upon condition we, 
would take the mine in our way. From thence we proceeded to Meherrin 
river, which lies eight miles beyond the court house, and in our way forded 
Great creek. For fear of being belated, we called not at my quarter, where 
Don Pedro is overseer, and lives in good repute amongst his neighbours. 
In compliment to the little major we went out of our way, to lie at a settle- 
ment of his upon Cock's creek, four miles short of Roanoke. Our fare here 
was pretty coarse, but Mr. Banister and I took possession of the bed, while 
the rest of the company lay in bulk upon the floor. This night the little 
major made the first discovery of an impatient and peevish temper, equally 
unfit both for a traveller and a husband. 

14th. In the morning my friend Tom Wilson made me a visit, and gave 
me his parole that he would meet us at Blue Stone Castle. We took horse 
about nine, and in the distance of ten miles reached a quarter of Col. Stith's, 
under the management of John Tomasin. This plantation lies on the west 
side of Stith's creek, which was so full of water, by reason of a fresh in the 
river, that we could not ford it, but we and our baggage were paddled over 
in a canoe, and our horses swam by our sides. After staying here an hour, 
with some of Diana's maids of honour, we crossed Miles' creek a small 
distance off", and at the end of eight miles were met by a tall, meager figure, 
which I took at first for an appai-ition, but it proved to be Col. Stith's miner. 
I concluded that the unwholesome vapours arising from the copper mine had 
made this operator such a skeleton, but upon inquiry understood it was 
sheer famine had brought him so low. He told us his stomach had not been 
blessed with one morsel of meat for more than three weeks, and that too he 
had been obliged to short allowance of bread, by reason corn was scarce and 
to be fetched from Tomasin's, which was ten long miles from the mine 
where he lived. However, in spite of this spare diet, the man was cheerful, 
and uttered no complaint. Being conducted by him, we reached the mines 
about five o'clock, and pitched our tents, for the first time, there being yet no 
building erected but a log-house, to shelter the miner and his two negroes. 
We examined the mine and found it dipped from cast to west, and showed 
but a slender vein, embodied in a hard rock of white spar. The shaft they 
had opened was about twelve feet deep, and six over. I saw no more than 
one peck of good ore above ground, and that promised to be very rich. 
The engineer seemed very sanguine, and had not the least doubt but his em- 
ployer's fortune was made. He made us the compliment of three blasts, and 
we filled his belly with good beef in return, which in his hungry circum- 
stances was the most agreeable present we could make him. 

1 5th. It rained in the morning, which made us decamp later than we in- 
tended, but the clouds clearing away about ten, we wi.shed good luck to 



THE LAND OF KDEN. ]05 

the mine and departed. We left Col. Stith there to keep fast with his miner, 
and directed ourcom'se through the woods to Boucher's creek, which hath its 
name from an honest fellow that lives upon it. This place is about six miles 
from Col. Stith's works, and can also boast of a very fair show of copper ore. 
It is dug out of the side of a hill, that rises gradually from the creek to the 
house. The good man was from home himself; but his wife, who was as old 
as one of the Sibyls, refreshed us with an ocean of milk. By the strength 
of that entertainment, we proceeded to Mr. Mumford's quarter, about five 
miles off, where Joseph Colson is overseer. Here our thirsty companions 
raised their drooping spirits with a cheerful dram, and having wet both eyes, 
we rode on seven miles farther to Blue Stone Ca.stle, five whereof were 
through my own land, that is to say, all above Sandy creek. My land there 
in all extends ten miles upon the river ; and three charming islands, namely, 
Sapponi, Occaneeche, and Totero, run along the whole length of it. The 
lowest of these islands is three miles long, the next four, and the uppermost 
three, divided from each other by only a narrow strait. The soil is rich in 
all of them, the timber large, and a kind of pea, very grateful to cattle and 
horses, holds green all the winter. Roanoke river is divided by these islands ; 
that part which runs on the north side is about eighty yards, and that on 
the south more than one hundred. A large fresh will overflow the lower 
part of these islands, but never covers all, so thlt the cattle may always re- 
cover a place of security. The middlemost island, called Occaneeche island, 
has several fields in it where Occaneeche Indians formerly lived, and there 
are still some remains of the peach trees they planted. Here grow likewise 
excellent wild hops without any cultivation. My overseer, Harry Morris, did 
his utmost to entertain me and my company ; the worst of it was, we were 
obliged all to be littered down in one room, in company with my landlady 
and four children, one of which was very sick, and consequently very fretful. 

16th. This being Sunday, and the place where we were quite out of 
Christendom, very little devotion went forward. I thought it no harm to 
take a Sabbath day's journey, and rode with my overseer to a new entry I 
had made upon Blue Stone creek, about three miles from the castle, and found 
the land very fertile and convenient. It consists of low grounds and mea- 
dows on both sides the creek. After taking a view of this, we rode two 
miles farther to a stony place, where there were some tokens of a copper 
mine, but not hopeful enough to lay me under any temptation. Then we 
returned to the company, and found Tom Wilson was come according 
to his promise, in order to proceed into the woods along with us. 
Jo. Colson likewise entered into pay, having cautiously made his bargain 
for a pistole. There were three Tuskeruda Indians, (which I understood 
had been kept on my plantation to hunt for Harry Morris,) that with much 
ado were also persuaded to be of the party. My landlady could not forbear 
discovering some broad signs of the fury, by breaking out into insolent and 
passionate expressions against the poor negroes. And if my presence could 
not awe her, I concluded she could be very outrageous when I was a hun- 
dred miles off. This inference I came afterwards to understand was but 
too true, for, between the husband and the wife, the negroes had a hard time 
of it. 

1 7th. We set off about nine from Blue Stone Castle, and rode up the 
river six miles, (one half of which distance was on my own land,) as far as 
major Mumford's quarter, where master Hogen was tenant upon halves. 
Here were no great marks of industry, the weeds being near as high as the 
corn. My islands run up within a little way of this place, which will expose 
them to the inroad of the major's creatures. That called Totero island lies 
too convenient not to receive damage that way ; but we must guard against 



106 A JOURNEY TO 

it as well as we can. After the major had convinced himself of the idleness 
of his tenant, he returned back to Blue Stone, and Harry Morris and I went 
in quest of a fine copper mine, which he had secured for me in the fork. 
For which purpose, about a quarter of a mile higher than Hogen's, we crossed 
a narrow branch of the river into a small island, not yet taken up, and after 
traversing that, forded a much wider branch into the fork of Roanoke river. 
Where we landed was near three miles higher up than the point of the fork. 
We first directed our course easterly towards that point, which was very 
sharp, and each branch of the river where it divided first seemed not to ex- 
ceed eighty yards in breadth. The land was broken and barren off from 
the river, till we came within half a mile of the point where the low-grounds 
began. The same sort of low ground ran up each branch of the river. 
That on the Staunton (being the northern branch) was but narrow, but that 
on the south, which is called the Dan, seemed t6 carry a width of at least 
half a mile. After discovering this place, for which I intended to enter, we 
rode up the mid-land five miles to view the mine, which in my opinion hardly 
answered the trouble of riding so far out of our way. We returned down- 
wards again about four miles, and a mile from the point found a good 
ford over the north branch, into the upper end of Totero island. We 
crossed the river there, and near the head of the island saw a large quantity 
of wild hops growing, that smelt fragrantly, and seemed to be in great per- 
fection. At our first landing we were so hampered with brambles, vines and 
poke bushes, that our horses could hardly force their way through them. 
However, this difficulty held only about twenty-five yards at each end of the 
island, all the rest being very level and free from underwood. We met with 
old fields where the Indians had formerly lived, and the grass grew as high 
as a horse and his rider. In one of these fields were large duck ponds, very 
firm at the bottom, to which wild fowl resort in the winter. In the woody- 
part of the island grows a vetch, that is green all the winter, and a great 
support for horses and cattle, though it is to be feared the hogs will root it 
all up. There is a cave in this island, in which the last Totero king, with 
only two of his men, defended himself against a great host of northern In- 
dians, and at last obliged them to retire. We forded the strait out of this 
into Occaneeche island, which was full of large trees, and rich land, and the 
south part of it is too high for any flood less than Noah's to drowm, we rode 
about two miles down this island, (being half the length of it,) where finding 
ourselves opposite to Blue Stone Castle, we passed the river in a canoe, 
which had been ordered thither for that purpose, and joined our friends, very 
much tired, not so much with the length of the journey, as with the heat of 
the weather. 

1 8th. We lay by till the return of the messenger that we sent for the am- 
munition, and other things left at the court house. Nor had the Indians yet 
joined us according to their promise, which made us begin to doubt of their 
veracity. I took a solitary walk to the first ford of Blue Stone creek, about 
a quarter of a mile from the house. This creek had its name from the colour 
of the stones, which paved the bottom of it, and are so smooth that it is pro- 
bable they will burn into lime. I took care to return to my company by 
dinner time, that I might not trespass upon their stomachs. In the afternoon 
I was paddled by the overseer and one of my servants up the creek, but 
could proceed little farther than a mile because of the shoal water. All the 
way we perceived the bottom of the creek full of the blue stones above men- 
tioned, sufficient in quantity to build a large castle. At our return we went 
into the middle of the river, and stood upon a large blue rock to angle, but 
without any success. We broke off a fragment of the rock, and found it 
as heavy as so much lead. Discouraged by our ill luck, we repaired to the 



THE LAND OF EDEN. 107 

company, who had procured some pieces of copper ore from Cargil's mine, 
which seemed full of metal. This mine lies about twelve miles higher than 
major Mumford's plantation, and has a better show than any yet discovered. 
There are so many appearances of copper in these parts, that the inhabitants 
seem to be all mine-mad, and neglect making of corn for their present neces- 
sities, in hopes of growing very rich hereafter. 

19th. The heavens lowered a little upon us in the morning, but, like a 
damsel ruffled by too bold an address, it soon cleared up again. Because I 
detested idleness, I caused my overseer to paddle me up the river as far as 
the strait that divides Occaneeche from Totero island, which is about 
twenty yards wide. There runs a swift stream continually out of the south 
part of the river into the north, and is in some places very deep. We crossed 
the south part to the opposite shore, to view another entry I had made, be- 
ginning at Buffalo creek and running up the riv^er to guard my islands, and 
keep off bad neighbours on that side. The land seems good enough for corn 
along the river, but a quarter of a mile back it is broken, and full of stones. 
After satisfying my curiosity, I returned the way that I came, and shot the 
same strait back again, and paddled down the river to the company. 
When we got home, we laid the foundation of two large cities. One at 
Shacco's, to be called Richmond, and the other at the point of Appomattox 
river, to be named Petersburg. These major Mayo offered to lay out into 
lots without fee or reward. The truth of it is, these two places being the 
uppermost landing of James and Appomattox rivers, are naturally intended 
for marts, where the traffic of the outer inhabitants must centre. Thus we did 
not build castles only, but also cities in the air. In the evening our ammunition 
arrived safe, and the Indians came to us, resolved to make part of our com- 
pany, upon condition of their being supplied with powder and shot, and 
having the skins of all the deer they killed to their own proper use. 

20th. Every thing being yeady for a march, we left Blue Stone Castle 
about ten. My company consisted of four gentlemen (namely, major Mayo, 
major Mumford, Mr. Banister and Mr. Jones,) and five woodsmen, Thomas 
Wilson, Henry Morris, Joseph Colson, Robert Boiling and Thomas Hooper, 
four negroes and three Tuscaruda Indians. W^ith this small troop we pro- 
ceeded up the river as far as Hogen's, above which, about a quarter of a 
mile, we forded into the little island, and from thence into the fork of the 
river. The water was risen so high, that it ran into the top of my boots, 
but without giving me any cold, although I rode in my wet stockings. We 
landed three miles above the point of the fork, and, after marching three miles 
farther, I'eached the tenement of Peter Mitchell, the highest inhabitant on 
Roanoke river. Two miles above that we forded a water, which we named 
Birche's creek, not far from the mouth, where it discharges itself into the 
Dan. From thence we rode through charming low-grounds, for six miles 
together, to a la'^ger stream, which we agreed to call Banister river. We 
were puzzled to find a ford by reason the water was very high, but at last 
got safe over, about one and a half miles from the banks of the Dan. In our 
way we killed two very large rattle-snakes, one of fifteen and the other of 
twelve rattles. They were both fat, but nobody would be persuaded to car- 
ry them to our quarters, although they would have added much to the 
luxury of our supper. We pitched our tents upon Banister river, where we 
feasted on a young buck which had the ill luck to cross our way. It rained 
great part of the night, with very loud thunder, which rumbled frightfully 
amongst the tall trees that surrounded us in that low ground, but, thank God ! 
without any damage. Our Indians killed three deer, but were so lazy they 
brought them not to the camp, pretending for their excuse that they were 
too Jean. 



108 A JOURNEY TO 

21st. The necessity of drying our baggage prevented us from marching 
till eleven o'clock. Then we proceeded through low-grounds which were 
tolerably wide for three miles together, as far as a small creek, named by us 
Morris' creek. This tract of land I persuaded Mr. Banister to enter for, 
that ho might not be a loser by the expedition. The low grounds held good 
a mile beyond the creek, and then the highland came quite to the river,^ and. 
made our travelling more difficult. All the way we went we perceived there 
had been tall canes lately growing on the bank of the river, but were uni- 
versally killed ; and inquiring into the reason of this destructton, we were 
told that the nature of those canes was, to shed their seed but once in seven 
years, and the succeeding winter to die, and make room for young ones to 
grow up in their places. Thus much was certain, that four years before we 
saw canes grow and flourish in several places, where they now lay dead and 
dry upon the ground. The whole distance we travelled in this day by com- 
putation was fifteen miles, and then the appearance of a black cloud, which 
threatened a gust, obliged us to take up our quarters. We had no sooner 
got our tents over our heads, but it began to rain and thunder furiously, and 
one clap succeeded the lightning the same instant, and made all tremble be- 
fore it. But, blessed be God ! it spent its fury upon a tall oak just by our 
camp. Our Indians were so fearful of falling into the hands of the Catawbas, 
that they durst not lose sight of us all day; so they killed nothing, and we 
were forced to make a temperate supper upon bread and cheese. It was 
strange we met with no wild turkeys, this being the season in which great 
numbers of them used to be seen towards the mountains. They commonly 
perched on the high trees near the rivers and creeks. But this voyage, to 
our great misfortune, there were none to be found. So that we could not 
commit that abomination, in the sight of all Indians, of mixing the flesh of 
deer and turkeys in our broth. 

22d. We were again obliged to dry our baggage, which had been thoroughly 
soaked with the heavy rain that fell in the night. While we stayed for that, 
our hunters knocked down a brace of bucks, wherewith we made ourselves 
amends for our scanty supper the aforegoing night. All these matters being 
duly performed made it near noon before we sounded to horse. We march- 
ed about two miles over fine low-grounds to a most pleasant stream, which 
we named the Med way, and by the way discovered a rich neck of highland 
that lay on the south side of the Dan, and looked very tempting. Two miles 
beyond the Med way, we forded another creek, which we called Maosty 
creek. The whole distance between these two streams lay exceeding rich 
lands, and the same continued two miles higher. This body of low-grounds 
tempted me to enter for it, to serve as a stage between my land at the fork, 
and the Land of Eden. The heavens looked so menacing that we resolved 
to take up our quarters two miles above Maosty creek, where we intrenched 
ourselves on a rising ground. We had no sooner taken these precautions, 
but it began to rain unmercifully, and to put out our fire as fast as we could 
kindle it; nor was it only a hasty shower, but continued with great impe- 
tuosity most part of the night. We preferred a dry fast to a wet feast, be- 
ing unwilling to expose the people to the weather, to gratify an unreasonable 
appetite. However it was some comfort, in the midst of our abstinence, to 
dream of the delicious breakfast we intended to make next morning, upon a 
fat doe and two-year-old bear our hunters had killed the evening before. 
Notwithstanding all the care we could take, several of the men were dripping 
wet, and, among the rest, Harry Morris dabbled so long- in the rain, that he 
was seized with a violent fit of an ague that shook him almost out of all his 
patience. 

23d. It was no loss of lime to rest in our camp according to the duty of 



THE LAND OF EDEN. |Q9 

the day, because our baggage was so wet it needed a whole day to dry it. 
Fyr this purpose we kindled four several fires, in the absence of the sun, 
which vouchsafed us not one kind look the whole day. My-servant had drop- 
ped his great-coat yesterday, and two of the men were so good-natured as 
to ride back and look for it to-day, and were so lucky as to find it. Our In- 
dians having no notion of the sabbath, went out to hunt for something for 
dinner, and brought a young doe back along with them. They laughed" at the 
English for losing one day in seven ; though the joke may be turned upon 
them for losing the whole seven, if idleness and doing nothing to the pur- 
pose may be called loss of time. I looked out narrowly for ginseng, this 
being the season when it wears its scarlet fruit, but neither now nor any 
other time during the whole journey could I find one single plant of it. This 
made me conclude that it delighted not in quite so southerly a climate ; and 
in truth I never heard of its growing on this side of thirty-eight degrees of 
latitude. But, to make amends we saw abundance of sugar trees in all these 
low.-grounds, which the whole summer long the woodpeckers tap, for the 
sweet juice that flov/s out of thetn. Towards the evening a strong north- 
wester was so kind as to sweep all the clouds away, that had blackened our 
sky, and moistened our skins, for some time past. 

24tli. The rest the sabbath had given us made every body alert this morn- 
ing, so that we mounted before nine o'clock. This diligence happened to be 
the more necessary, by reason the woods we encountered this day were ex- 
ceedingly bushy and uneven. At the distance of four miles we forded both 
branches of Forked creek, which lay within one thousand paces from each 
other. My horse fell twice under me, but, thank God ! without any damage 
either to himself or his rider; and major Mayo's baggage horse rolled down 
a steep hill, and ground all his biscuit to rocahominy. My greatest disaster 
was that, in mounting one of the precipices, my steed made a short turn and 
gave my knee an unmerciful bang against a tree, and I felt the effects of it 
several days after. However, this was no interruption of our journey, but 
we went merrily on, and two miles farther crossed Peter's creek, and two miles 
after that Jones' creek. Between these creeks was a good breadth of low- 
grounds, with which Mr. Jones was tempted, though he shook his head at 
the distance. A little above Jones' creek, we met with a pleasant situation, 
where the herbage appeared more inviting than usual. The horses were so 
fond of it that we determined to camp there, although the sun had not neqir 
finished his course. This gave some of our company leisure to go out and 
search for the place where our line first crossed the Dan, and by good luck 
they found it within half a mile of the camp. But the place was so altered 
by the desolation which had happened to the canes, (which had formerly 
fringed the banks of the river a full furlong deep,) that we hardly knew it 
again. Pleased with this discoveiy, I forgot the pain in my knee, and the 
whole company ate their venison without any other sauce than keen appetite. 
25th. The weather now befriending us, we despatched our little affairs in 
good time, and marched in a body to the line. It was already grown very 
dim, by reason many of the marked trees were burnt or blown down. 
However, we made shift, after riding little more than half a mile, to find it, and 
having once found it, stuck as close to it as we could. After a march of two 
miles, we got upon Cane creek, where we saw the same havoc amongst the 
old canes that we had observed in other places, and a whole forest of young 
ones springing up in their stead. We pursued our journey over hills and 
dales till we arrived at the second ford of the Dan, which we passed with no 
other damage than sopping a little of our bread, and shipping some water at 
the tops of our boots. The late rains having been a little immoderate, had 
raised the water and made a current in the river. We drove on four miles 
P 



J 10 A JOURNEY TO 

farther to a plentiful run of very clear water, and quartered on a rising 
ground a bow-shot from it. We had no sooner pitched the tents, but one of 
our woodsmen alarmed us with the news that he had followed the track of 
a great body of Indians to the place where they had lately encamped. That 
there he had found no less than ten huts, tlie poles whereof had green leaves 
still fresh upon them. That each of these huts had sheltered at least ten 
Indians, who, by some infallible marks, must have been northern Indians. 
That they must needs have taken their departure from thence no longer ago 
than the day before, having erected those huts to protect themselves from the 
late heavy rains. These tidings I could perceive were a little shocking to 
some of the company, and particularly the little iriajor, whose tongue had 
never lain still, was taken speechless for sixteen hours. I put as good a 
countenance upon the matter as I could, assuring my fellow travellers, that 
the northern Indians were at peace with us, and although one or two of them 
may now and then commit a robbery or a murder, (as other rogues do,) yet 
nationally and avowedly they would not venture to hurt us. And in case 
they were Catawbas, the danger would be as little from them, because tliey 
are too fond of our trade to lose it for the pleasure of shedding a little Eng- 
lish blood. But supposing the worst, that they might break through all the 
rules of self-interest, and attack us, yet we ought to stand bravely on bur 
defence, and sell our lives as dear as we could. That we should have no 
more fear on this occasion, than just to make us more watchful and better 
provided to receive the enemy, if they had the spirit to venture upon us. 
This reasoning of mine, though it could not remove the panic, yet it abated 
something of the palpitation, and made us double our guard. However, I 
found it took oflf the edge of most of our appetites, for every thing but the 
rum bottle, which was more in favor than ever, because of its cordial quality, 
I hurt my other knee this afternoon, but not enough to spoil either my 
dancing or my stomach. 

26th. We liked the place so little that we were glad to leave it this morn- 
ing as soon as we could. For that reason we were all on horseback before 
nine, and after riding four miles arrived at the mouth of Sable creek. On 
the eastern bank of that creek, six paces from the mouth, and just at the 
brink of the river Dan, stands a sugar tree, which is the beginning of my 
fine tract of land in Carolina, called the Land of Eden. I caused the initial 
letters of my name to be cut on a large poplar and beech near my corner, 
for the more easy finding it another time. We then made a beginning of 
my survey, directing our course due south from the sugar tree above- 
mentioned. In a little way we perceived the creek forked, and the western 
branch was wide enough to merit the name of a river. That to the east 
was much less, which we intersected with this course. We ran southerly a 
mile, and found the land good all the way, only towards tte end of it we saw 
the trees destroyed in such a manner that there were hardly any left to 
mark my bounds. Having finished this course, we encamped in a charming 
peninsula, formed by the western branch of the creek. It contained about 
forty acres of very rich land, gradually descending to the creek, and is a de- 
lightful situation for tlie manor house. My servant had fed so intemperate- 
ly upon bear, that it gave him a scouring, and that was followed by the piles, 
which made riding worse to him than purgatory. But anointing with the 
fat of the same bear, he soon grew easy again. 

27th. We were stirring early from this enchanting place, and ran eight 
miles of my back line, which tended south eighty-four and a half westerly. 
We found the land uneven, but tolerably good, though very thin of trees, 
and those that were standing fit for little but fuel and fence-rails. Some 
conflagration had effectually opened the country, and made room for the air 



THE LAND OF EDEN. 



Ill 



to circulate. We crossed both the branches of Lowland creek, and sundry 
other rills of fine water. From every eminence we discovered the moun- 
tains to the north-west of^s, though they seemed to be a long way off. 
Here the air felt very refreshing and agreeable to the lungs, having no 
swamps or marshes to taint it. Nor was this the only good effect it had, 
but it likewise made us very hungry, so that we were forced to halt and 
pacify our appetites with a frugal repast out of our pockets, which we wash- 
ed down with water from a purling stjeam just by. My knees pained me 
very much, though I broke not the laws of travelling by uttering the least 
complaint. Measuring and marking spent so much of our time, that we 
could advance no further than eight miles, and the chain carriers thought 
that a great way. In the evening we took up our quarters in the low- 
grounds of the river, which our scouts informed us was but two hundred 
yards ahead of us. This was no small surprise, because we had flattered 
ourselves that this back line would not have intersected the Dan at all ; but 
we found ourselves mistaken, and plainly perceived that it ran more souther- 
ly than we imagined, and in all likelihood pierces the mountains where they 
form an amphitheatre. The venison here was lean ; and the misfortune was 
we met no bear in so open a country, to grease the way and make it slip 
down. In the night our sentinel alarmed us with an idle suspicion that he 
heard the Indian whistle, (which amongst them is a signal for attacking their 
enemies.) This made every one stand manfully to his arms in a moment, 
and I found no body more undismayed in this surprise than Mr. Banister ; 
but after we had put ourselves in battle array, we discovered this whistle to 
be nothing but the nocturnal note of a little harmless bird, that inhabits those 
woods. We were glad to find the mistake, and commending the sentinel for 
his great vigilance, composed our noble spirits again to rest till the morning. 
However, some of the company dreamed of nothing but scalping all the rest 
of the night. 

28th. We snapped up our breakfast as fast as we could, that we might 
have the more leisure to pick our way over a very bad ford across the river. 
Though, bad as it was, we all got safe on the other side. We were no sooner 
landed, but we found ourselves like to encounter a very rough and almost 
impassable thicket. However, we scuffled through it without any dismay or 
complaint. This was a copse of young saplings, consisting of oak, hickory 
and sassafras, which are the growth of a fertile soil. We gained no more 
than two miles in three hours in this perplexed place, and after that had the 
pleasure to issue out into opener woods. The land was generally good, 
though pretty bare of timber, and particularly we traversed a rich level of at 
least two miles. Our whole day's journey amounted not quite to five miles, 
by reason we had been so hampered at our first setting out. We were glad 
to take up our quarters early in a piece of fine low-grounds, lying about a 
mile north of the river. Thus we perceived the river edged away gently to- 
wards the south, and never likely to come in the way of our course again. 
Nevertheless, the last time we saw it, it kept much the same breadth and 
depth that it had where it divided its waters from the Staunton, and in all 
likelihood holds its own quite as high as the mountains. 

29th. In measuring a mile and a half farther we reached the lower ford 
of the Irvin, which branches from the Dan about two miles to the south, 
south-east of this place. This river was very near threescore yards over, 
and in many places pretty deep. From thence, in little more than a mile, we 
came to the end of this course, being in length fifteen miles and eighty-eight 
poles. And so far the land held reasonably good ; but when we came to 
run our northern course of three miles, to the place where the country line 
intersects the same Irvin higher up, we passed over nothing but stony hills, 



112 A JOURNEY TO 

and barren grounds, clothed with little timber, and refreshed with less water. 
All my hopes were in the riches that might lie under ground, there being 
many goodly tokens of mines. The stones whiWi paved the river, both by 
their weight and colour, promised abundance of metal ; but whether it be 
silver, lead or copper, is beyond our skill to discern. We also discovered 
many shows of marble, of a white ground, with streaks of red and purple. 
So that it is possible the treasure in the bowels of the earth may make ample 
amends for the poverty of its surface. We encamped on the bank of this 
river, a little below the dividing line, and near the lower end of an island 
half a mile long, which, for the metallic appearances, we dignified with the 
name of Potosi. In our way to this place we treed a bear, of so mighty a 
bulk, that when we fetched her down she almost made an earthquake. But 
neither the shot nor the fall disabled her so much, but she had like to have 
hugged one of our dogs to death in the violence of her embrace. We 
exercised the discipline of the woods, by tossing a very careless servant in 
a blanket, for losing one of our axes. 

30th. This being Sunday, we were glad to rest from our labours ; and, to 
help restore our vigour, several of us plunged into the river, notwithstand- 
ing it was a frosty morning. One of our Indians went in along with us, and 
taught us their way of swimming. They strike not out both hands together, 
but alternately one after another, whereby they are able to swim both far- 
ther and faster than we do. Near the camp grew several large chestnut 
trees very full of chestnuts. Our men were too lazy to climb the trees for 
the sake of the fruit, but, like the Indians, chose rather to cut them down, re- 
gardless of those that were to come after. Nor did they esteem such kind 
of work any breach of the sabbath, so long as it helped to fill their bellies. 
One of the Indians shot a bear, which he lugged about half a mile for the 
good of the company. These gentiles have no distinction of days, but make 
every day a sabbath, except when they go out to war or a hunting, and 
then they will undergo incredible fatigues. Cf other work the men do none, 
thinking it below the dignity of their sex, but make the poor women do all 
the drudgery. They have a blind tradition amongst them, that work was 
first laid upon mankind by the fault of a female, and therefore it is but just 
that sex should do the greatest part of it. This they plead in their excuse ; 
but the true reason is, that the weakest must always go to the wall, and 
superiority has from the beginning ungenerously imposed slavery on those 
who are not able to resist it. 

October 1. I plunged once more into the river Irvin this morning, for a 
small cold I had caught, and was entirely cured by it. We ran the three 
mile course from a white oak standing on my corner upon the western bank 
of the river, and intersected the place, w^here we ended the back line exactly, 
and fixed that corner at a hickory. We steered south from thence about a 
mile, and then came upon the Dan, wliich thereabouts makes but narrow 
low-grounds. We forded it about a mile and a half to the westward of the 
place where the Irvdn runs into it. When we were over, we determined to 
ride down the river on that side, and for three miles found the high-land 
come close down to it, pretty barren and uneven. But then on a sudden 
the scene changed, and we were surprised with an opening of large extent, 
where the Sauro Indians once lived, who had been a considerable nation. 
But the frequent inroads of the Senecas annoyed them incessantly, and 
obliged them to remove fi:-om this fine situation about thii ty years ago. They 
then retired more southerly, as far as Pee Dee river, and incorporated with 
the Kewawees, where a remnant of them is still surviving. It must have 
been a great misfortune to them to be obliged to abandon so beautiful a 
dwelling, where the air is wholesome, and the soil equal in fertility to any in 



THE LAND OF EDEN. j j 3 

the world. The river is about eighty yards wide, always confined within 
its lofty banks, and rolling down its waters, as sweet as milk, and as clear as 
crystal. There runs a chai-Tning level, of more than a mile square, that 
will bring forth like the lands of Egypt, without being overflowed once a 
year. There is scarce a shrub in view to intercept your prospect, but grass 
as high as a man on horseback. Towards the woods there is a gentle ascent, 
till your sight is intercepted by an eminence, that overlooks the whole land- 
scape. This sweet place is l)ounded to the east by a fine stream, called 
Sauro creek, which running out of the Dan, and tending westerly, makes the 
whole a peninsula. I could not quit this pleasant situation without regret, but 
often faced about to take a parting look at it as far as I (;ould see, and so in- 
deed did all the rest of the company. But at last we left it quite out of sight, 
and continued our course down the river, till where it intersects my back 
line, which was about live miles below Sauro town. We took up our quar- 
ters at the same camp where we had a little before been alarmed with the 
supposed Indian whistle, which we could hardly get out of our heads. 
However, it did not spoil our rest; but we dreamed all night of the delights 
of Tempe and the Elysian fields. 

2d. We awoke early from these innocent dreams, and took our way 
along my back line till we came to the corner of it. From thence we slant- 
ed to the country line, and kept down that as far as the next fording place of 
the river, making in the whole eighteen miles. We breathed all the way in 
pure air, which seemed friendly to the lungs, and circulated the blood and 
spirits very briskly. Happy will be the people destined for so wholesome a 
situation, where.they rnay live to fulness of days, and which is much better 
still, with much content and gaiety of heart. On every rising ground we 
faced about to take our leave of the mountains, which still showed their 
towering heads. The ground was uneven, rising into hills, and sinking 
into valleys great part of the way, but the soil was good, abounding in most 
places with a greasy black mould. We took up our quarters on the western 
bank of the river, where we had forded it at our coming up. One of our 
men, Joseph Colson by name, a timorous, lazy fellow, had squandered away 
his bread, and grew very uneasy when his own ravening had reduced him 
to short allowance. He was one of those drones who love to do little and 
eat much, and are never in humour unless their bellies are full. According 
to this wrong turn of constitution, when he found he could no longer revel 
in plenty, he began to break the rules by complaining and threatening to 
desert. This had like to have brought him to the blanket, but his submission 
reprieved him. Though bread grew a little scanty with us, we had venison 
in abundance, which a true woodsman can eat contentedly without any 
bread at all. But bears' flesh needs something of the farinaceous, to make 
it pass easily off the stomach. In the night we heard a dog bark at some 
distance, as we thought, when we saw all our own dogs lying about the fu-e. 
This was another alarm ; but we soon discovered it to be a wolf, which will 
sometimes bark very like a dog, but something shriller. 

3d. The fine season continuing, we made the most of it by leaving our 
quarters as soon as possible. We began to measure and mark the bounds 
of major Mayo's land on the south of the country line. In order to do this 
we marched round the bent of the river, but he being obliged to make a 
traverse, we could reach no farther than four miles. In the distance of about 
a mile from where we lay, we crossed Cliff creek, which confined its stream 
within such high banks that it was diflicult to find a passage over. We 
kept close to the river, and two miles farther came to Hixe's creek, where 
abundance of canes lay dry and prostrate on the ground, having suffered 
in the late septennial slaughter of that vegetable. A mile af^erthat we forded 



] 14 A JOURNEY TO 

another stream, wiiich we called Hatcher's creek, from two Indian traders of 
that name, who used formerly to carry goods to the Sauro Indians. Near 
the banks of this creek I found a large beech tree, with the following inscrip- 
tion cut upon the bark of it, " J. H., H. H., B. B., lay here the 24th of Ma^, 1673." 
It was not difficult to lill up these initia's with the following names, Joseph 
Hatcher, Henry Hatcher and Benjamin Bullington, three Indian traders, who 
had lodged near that place sixty years before, in their way to the Sauro town. 
But the strangest part of the story was this, that these letters, cut in the bark, 
should remain perfectly legible so long. Nay, if no accident befalls the tree, 
which appears to be still in a flourishing condition, I doubt not but this piece 
of antiquity may be read many years hence. We may also learn from it, 
that the beech is a very long-lived tree, of which there are many exceedingly 
large in these woods. The major took in a pretty deal of rich low-ground 
into his survey, but unhappily left a greater quantity out, which proves the 
weakness of making entries by guess. We found the Dan fordable here- 
abouts in most places. One of the Indians shot a wild goose, that was very 
lousy, which nevertheless was good meat, and proved those contemptible 
tasters to be no bad tasters. However, for those stomachs that were so un- 
happy as to be squeamish, there was plenty of fat bear, we having killed two 
in this day's march. 

4th. I caused the men to use double diligence to assist major Mayo in fix- 
ing the bounds of his land, because he had taken a great deal of pains about 
mine. We therefore mounted our horses as soon as we had swallowed our 
breakfast. Till that is duly performed a woodsman makes a conscience of 
exposing himself to any flitigue. We proceeded then in his survey, and 
made an end before night, though most of the company were of opinion 
the land was hardly worth the trouble. It seemed most of it before below 
the character the discoverers had given him of it. We fixed his eastern 
corner on Cocquade creek, and then continued our march, over the hills and 
far away, along the country line two miles farther. Nor had we stopped 
there, unless a likelihood of rain had obliged us to encamp on an eminence 
where we were in no danger of being overflowed. Peter Jones had a smart 
fit of an ague, which shook him severely, though he bore it like a man ; but 
the small major had a small fever, and bore it like a child. He groaned as 
if he had been in labour, and thought verily it would be his fate to die like 
a mutinous Israelite in the wilderness, and be buried under a heap of stones. 
The rain was so kind as to give us leisure to secure ourselves against it, 
but came however time enough to interrupt our cookery, so that we supped 
as temperately as so many philosophers, and kept ourselves snug within 
our tents. The worst part of the story was, that the sentinels could hardly 
keep our fires from being extinguished by the heaviness of the shower. ' 

5th. Our invalids found themselves in travelling condition this morning, 
and began to conceive hopes of returning home and dying in their own beds. 
We pursued our journey through uneven and perplexed woods, and in the 
thickest of them had the fortune to knock down a young buffalo, two 
years old. Providence threw this vast animal in our way very seasonably, 
just as our provisions began to fail us. And it was the more welcome too, 
because it was change of diet, which of all varieties, next to that of bed- 
fellows, is the most agreeable. We had lived upon venison and bear until 
our stomachs loathed them almost as much as the Hebrews of old did their 
quails. Our butchers were so unhandy at their business that we grew very 
lank before we could get our dinner. But when it came, we found it equal 
in goodness to the best beef They made it the longer because they kept 
sucking the water out of the guts, in imitation of the Catawba Indians, upon 
the belief that it is a great cordial, and will even make them drunk, or at 



T{iE LAND OF EDEN | 15 

least veiy gay. We encamped upon Hico river, pretty high up, and had 
much ado to get our house in order, before a heavy shower descended upon 
us. I was in pain lest our sick men might sutler by the rain, but might have 
spared myself the concern, because it had the effect of a cold bath upon 
them, and drove away their distemper, or rather changed it into a canine 
appetite, that devoured all before it. It rained smartly all night long, which 
made our situation on the low-ground more fit for otters than men. 

Gth. We had abundance of drying work this morning after the clouds 
broke away and showed the sun to the happy earth. It was impossible for 
us to strike the tents till the afternoon, and then we took our departure, and 
made an easy march of four miles to another branch of Hico river, which 
we called Jesuit's creek, because it misled us. We lugged as many of the 
dainty pieces of the buffalo along with us as our poor horses could carry, 
envying the wolves the pleasure of such luxurious diet. Our quarters were 
taken upon a delightful eminence, that scornfully overlooked the creek, and 
afforded us a dry habitation. We made our supper on the tongue and udder 
of the buffalo, which were so good, that a cardinal legate might have made 
a comfortable meal upon them during the carnival. Nor was this all, but 
we had still a rarer morsel, the bunch rising up between the shoulders of this 
animal, which is very tender and very fat. The primings of a young doe, 
which one of the men brought to the camp, were slighted amidst these dain- 
ties, nor would even our servants be fobbed off with cates so common. The 
low-grounds of this creek are wide in many places, and rich, but seem to lie 
within reach of every inundation ; and this is commonly the case with most 
low-grounds, that lie either on the rivers or on the creeks that run into them. 
So great an inconvenience lessens their value very much, and makes high- 
land, that is just tolerable, of greater advantage to the owner. There he will 
be more likely to reap the fruits of his industry every year, and not run the 
risk, after all his toil, to see the sweat of his brow carried down the stream, 
and perhaps many of his cattle drowned into the bargain. Perhaps in times 
to come people may bank their low-grounds as they do in Europe, to confine 
the water within its natural bounds to prevent these inconveniences. « 

7th. The scarcity of bread, joined to the impatience of some of our com- 
pany, laid us under a kind of necessity to hasten our return home. For 
that reason we thought we might be excused for making a sabbath day's 
journey of about five miles, as far as our old camp upon Sugar Tree creek. 
On our way we forded Buffalo creek, which also empties its waters into Hico 
river. The woods we rode through were open, and tlie soil very promising, 
great part thereof being low-grounds, full of tall and large trees. A she 
bear had the ill luck to cross our way, which was large enough to afford 
us several luxurious meals. I paid for violating the sabbath by losing a pair 
of gold buttons. I pitched my tent on the very spot I had done when we 
ran the dividing line between Virginia and Carolina. The beech whose 
bark recorded the names of the Carolina commissioners was still standing, 
and we did them the justice to add to their names a sketch of their characters. 
We got our house in order time enough to walk about and make some slight 
observations. There were sugar trees innumerable growing in the low- 
grounds of this'creek, from which it received its name. They were many of 
them as tall as large hickories, with trunks from fifteen to twenty inches 
through. The woodpeckers, for the pleasure of the sweet juice which these 
trees yield, pierce the bark in many places, and do great damage, though the 
trees live a great while under all these wounds. There grows an infinite 
quantity of maidenhair, which seems to delight most in rich grounds. The 
sorrel tree is frequent there, whose leaves, brewed in beer, are good in drop- 
sies, green-sickness, and cachexies. We also saw in this place abundance 



1 [g A JUUKJVEY TO 

of papaw trees, the wood wliereof the Indians make very dry on (uirpose to 
rub fire out of it. Their method of doing it is this : they hold one of these 
dry sticks in each hand, and by rubbing them hard and quick together, rarify 
the air in such a manner as to fetch fire in ten minutes. Whenever they 
offer any sacrifice to their God, tliey look upon it as a profanation to maice 
' use of fire already kindled, but produce fresh virgin fire for that purpose, 
by rubbing two of these sticks together that never had been used before on 
any occasion. 

8th. After fortifying ourself with a bear breakfast, major Mayo took what 
help he thought necessary, and began to survey the land, witli which the 
commissioners of Carolina had presented him upon this creek. After running 
the bounds, the major was a little disappointed in the goodness of the land, 
but as it had cost him nothing it could be no bad pennyworth, as his upper 
tract really was. While that business was carrying on, I took my old friend 
and fellow traveller, Tom Wilson, and went to view the land I had entered 
for upon this creek, on the north of the country line. We rode down the 
sti-eam about six miles, crossing it sundry times, and found very wide low 
grounds on both sides of it, only we observed, wherever the low-grounds 
were broad on one side the creek, they were narrow on the other. The 
highlands we were obliged to pass over were very good, and in some 
places descended so gradually to the edge of the low-grounds, that they 
formed very agreeable prospects and pleasant situations for building. About 
four miles from the line, Sugar Tree creek emptied itself into the Hico, which 
with that addition swelled into a fine river. In this space we saw the most, 
and most promising good land we had met with in all our travels. In our 
way we shot a doe, but she not falling immediately, we had lost our game had 
not the ravens, by their croaking, conducted us to the thicket where she fell. 
We plunged the carcass of the deer into the water, to secure it from these 
ominous birds till we returned, but an hour afterwards were surprised with 
the sight of a wolf which had been fishing for it, and devoured one side. We 
knocked down an ancient she bear that had no flesh upon her bones, so 
we left it to the free-booters of the forest. In coming back to the camp we 
discovered a solitary bull buffalo, which boldly stood his ground, contrary to 
the custom of that shy animal, we spared his life, from a principle of never 
slaughtering an innocent creature to no purpose. However, we made our- 
selves some diversion, by trying if he would face our dogs. He was so far 
from retreating at their approach, that he ran at them with great fierceness, 
cocking up his ridiculous little tail, and grunting like a hog. The dogs in the 
mean time only played about him, not venturing within reach of his horns, and 
by their nimbleness came off with a whole skin. All these adventures we 
related at our return to the camp, and what was more to the purpose, we 
carried to them the side of venison which the wolf had vouchsafed to leave 
us. After we had composed ourselves to rest, our horses ran up to our camp 
as fast as their hobbles would let them. This was to some of us a certain 
argument that Indians were near, whose scent the horses can no more en- 
dure than they can their figures ; though it was more likely they had been 
scared by a panther or some other wild beast, the glaring of whose eyes are 
very terrifying to them in a dark night. 

9th. Major Mayo's survey being no more than half done, we were obliged 
to amuse ourselves another day in this place. And that the time might not 
be quite lost, we put our garments and baggage into good repair. I for my 
part never spent a day so well during the whole voyage. I had an imperti- 
nent tooth in my upper jaw, that had been loose for some time, and made me 
chew with great caution. Particularly I could not grind a biscuit but with 
much deliberation and presence of mind. Tooth-drawers we had none 



THE LAND OF EDEN. 117 

amongst us, nor any of the instruments they make use of However, inven- 
tion supplied this want very happily, and I contrived to get rid of this trou- 
blesome companion by cutting a caper. I caused a twine to be fastened 
round the root of my tooth, about a fathom in length, and then tied the other 
end to the snag of a log that lay upon the ground, in such a manner that 
I could just stand upright. Having adjusted my string in this manner, I 
bent my knees enough to enable me to spring vigorously off the ground, as 
perpendicularly as I could. The force of the leap drew out the tooth with 
so much ease that I felt nothing of it, nor should have believed it was come 
away, unless I had seen it dangling at the end of the string. An under tooth 
may be fetched out by standing off the ground and fastening your string at 
due distance above you. And having so fixed your gear, jump off your 
standing, and the weight of your body, added to the force of the spring, will 
prize out your tooth with less pain than any operator upon earth could draw 
it. This new way of tooth-drawing, being so silently and deliberately per- 
formed, both surprised and delighted all that were present, Vv-ho could not 
guess what I was going about. I immediately found the benefit of getting rid 
of this troublesome companion, by eating my supper with more comfort than 
I had done during the whole expedition. 

10th. In the morning we made an end of our bread, and all the rest of 
our provision, so that now we began to travel pretty light. All the company 
were witnesses how good the land was upon Sugar Tree creek, because we 
rode down it four miles, till it fell into Hico river. Then we directed our 
course over the highland, thinking to shorten our way to Tom Wilson's 
quarter. Nevertheless, it was our fortune to fall upon the Hico again, and 
then kept within sight of it several miles together, till we came near the 
mouth. Its banks were high and full of precipices on the east side, but it 
afforded some low-grounds on the west. Within two miles of the mouth 
are good shows of copper mines, as Harry Morris told me, but we saw no- 
thing of them. It runs into the Dan just below a large fall, but the chain of 
rocks does not reach quite across the river, to intercept the navigation. About 
a mile below lives Aaron Pinston, at a quarter belonging to Thomas Wilson, 
upon Tewahominy creek. This man is the highest inhabitant on the south 
side of the Dan, and yet reckons himself perfectly safe from danger. And 
if the bears, wolves, and panthers were as harmless as the Indians, his stock 
might be so too. Tom Wilson offered to knock down a steer for us, but I 
would by no means accept Of his generosity. However, we were glad of a 
few of his peas and potatoes, and some rashers of his bacon, upon which 
we ma'de good cheer. This plantation lies about a mile from the mouth of 
Tewahominy, and about the same distance from the mouth of Hico river, 
and contains a good piece of land. The edifice was only a log house, af- 
fording a very free passage for the air through every part of it, nor was the 
cleanliness of it any temptation to lie out of our tents, so we encamped once 
more, for the last time, in the open field. 

1 1th. I tipped our landlady with what I imagined a full reward for the 
trouble we had given her, and then mounted our horses, which pricked up 
their ears after the two meals they had eaten of corn. In the distance of 
about a mile we reached the Dan, which we forded with some difficulty into 
the fork. The water was pretty high in the river, and the current some- 
thing rapid, nevertheless all the company got over safe, with only a little 
water in their boots. Afler traversing the fork, which was there at least two 
good miles across, we forded the Staunton into a little island, and then the 
narrow branch of the same to the main land. We took major Mumford's 
tenant in our way, where we moistened our throats with a little milk, and 
then proceeded in good order to Blue Stone Castle. My landlady received 

a 



118 



A JOURNEY TO 



us with a grim sort of a \veicome, whicli 1 did nut expect, since 1 brought 
her husband back in good health, though perhaps that might be the reason. 
It is sure something or otiier did tease her, and she was a female of too strong 
passions to know how to dissemble. However, she was so civil as to get u,s 
a good dinner, which I was the better pleased with because Col. Cock and 
Mr. Mumfcrd came time enough to partake of it. The colonel had been sur- 
veying land in these parts, and particularly that on which Mr. Stith's copper 
mine lies, as likewise a tract on which Cornelius Cargill has fine appearances. 
He had but a poor opinion of Mr, Stith's mine, foretelling it would be all 
labour in vain, but thought something better of Mr. Cargill's. After dinner 
these gentlemen took their leaves, and at the same time I discharged two of 
of my fellow travellers, Thomas Wilson and Joseph Colson, after having 
made their hearts merry, and giving each of them a piece of gold to rub 
their eyes with. We now returned to that evil custom of lying in a house, 
and an evil one it is, when ten or a dozen people are forced to pig together 
in a room, as we did, and were troubled with the squalling of peevish, dirty 
children into the bargain. 

12th. We ate our fill of potatoes and milk, which seems delicious fare 
to those who have made a campaign in the w^oods. I then took my first 
minister, Harry Morris, up the hill, and marked out the place where Blue 
Stone Castle was to stand, and overlook the adjacent country. After that I 
put my friend in mind of many things he had done amiss, which he promised 
faithfully to reform. I was so much an infidel to his fair speeches, (having 
been many times deceived by them,) that I was forced to threaten him with 
my higliest displeasure, unless he mended his conduct very much. I also 
let him know, that he was not only to correct his own errors, but likewise 
those of his wife, since the power certainly belonged to him, in virtue of his 
conjugal authority. He scratched his head at this last admonition, from 
whence I inferred that the gray mare was the better horse. We gave our 
heavy baggage two hours' start, and about noon followed them, and in twelve 
miles reached John Butcher's, calling by the way for master Mumford, in 
order to take him along with us. Mr. Butcher received us kindly, and we 
had a true Roanoke entertainment of pork upon pork, and pork again upon 
that. He told us he had been one of the first seated in that remote part of 
the country, and in the beginning had been forced, like the great Nebuchad- 
nezzar, to live a considerable time upon grass. This honest man set a mighty 
value on the mine he fancied he had in his pasture, and showed us some of 
the ore, which he was made to believe was a gray copper, and would cer- 
tainly make his fortune. But there is a bad distemper rages in those parts, 
that grows very epidemical. The people are all mine mad, and neglecting 
to make corn, starve their famDies in hopes to live in great plenty hereafter. 
Mr. Stith was the first that was seized with the frenzy, and has spread the 
contagion far and near. As you ride along the woods, you see all the large 
stones knocked to pieces, nor can a poor marcasite rest quietly in its bed for 
these curious inquirers. Our conversation ran altogether upon this darling 
subject, until the hour came for our lying in bulk together. 

loth. After breaking our fast with a sea of milk and potatoes, we took 
our leave, and I crossed my landlady's hand with a piece of money. She 
refused the offer at first, but, like a true woman, accepted of it when it was 
put home to her. She told me the utmost she was able to do for me was a 
trifle in comparison of some favour I had formerly done her ; but what that 
favour was, neither I Could recollect, nor did she think proper to explain. 
Though it threatened rain, we proceeded on our journey, and jogged on in 
the new road for twenty miles, that is as far as it was cleared at that time, 
and found it would soon come to be a v<^ry good one after it was well 



THE LAND OF EDEN. j 19 

grubbed. About nine miles from John Butcher's, we crossed Allen's creek, 
four miles above Mr. Stith's mine. Near the mouth of this creek is a good 
body of rich land, whereof Occaneeche neck is a part. It was entered for 
many years ago by Col. Harrison and Col. Allen, but to this day is held 
without patent or improvement. And they say Mr. Boiling does the same, 
with a thousand acres lying below John Butcher's. After beating the new 
road for twenty miles, we struck off towards Meherrin, which we reached 
in eight miles farther, and then came to the plantation of Joshua Nicholson, 
where Daniel Taylor lives for halves. There was a poor* dirty house, with 
hardly any thing in it but children, that wallowed about like so many pigs. 
It is a common case in this part of the country, that people live worse upon 
good land ; and the more they are befriended by the soil and the climate, 
the less they will do for themselves. This man was an instance of it, for 
though his plantation would make plentiful returns for a little industry, yet 
he wanting that, wanted every thing. The woman did all that was done in 
the family, and the few garments they had to cover their dirty hides were 
owing to her industry. Wc could have no supplies from such neighbours as 
these, but depended on our own knapsacks, in which we had some remnants 
of cold fowls that we brought from Blue Stone Castle, When my house 
was in order, the whole family came and admired it, as much as if it had been 
the grand vizier's tent in the Turkish army. 

14th. The sabbath was now come round again, and although our horses 
would have been glad to take the benefit of it, yet we determined to make 
a Sunday's journey to Brunswick church, which lay about eight miles off. 
Though our landlord could do little for us, nevertheless, we did him all the 
good we were able, by bleeding his sick negro, and giving him a dose of 
Indian physic. We got to church in decent time, and Mr. Betty, the parson 
of the parish, entertained us with a good honest sermon, but whether he 
bought it, or borrowed it, would have been uncivil in us to inquire. Be that 
as it will, he is a decent man, with a double chin that sits gracefully over his 
band, and his parish, especially the female part of it, like him well. We were 
not crowded at church, though it was a new thing in that remote part of the 
country. What women happened to be there, were very gim and tidy m 
the work of their own hands, which made them look tempting in the eyes of 
us foresters. When church was done, we refreshed our teacher with a glass 
of wine, and then receiving his blessing, took horse and directed our course 
to major Embry's. The distance thither was reputed fifteen miles, but ap- 
peared less by the company of a nymph of those woods, whom innocence, 
and wholesome flesh and blood made very alluring. In our way we crossed 
Sturgeon creek and Q,ueocky creek, but at our journey's end were so unlucky 
as not to find either master or mistress at home. However, after two hours 
of hungry expectation, the good woman luckily found her way home, and 
provided very hospitably for us. As for the major, he had profited so much 
by my prescription, as to make a jomney to Williamsburg, which reciuired 
pretty good health, the distance being little short of one hundred miles. 

15th. After our bounteous landlady had cherished us with roast beef and 
chicken-pie, we thankfully took leave. At the same time we separated from 
our good friend and fellow trav eller, major Mayo, who steered directly home. 
He is certainly a very useful, as well as an agreeable companion in the 
woods, being ever cheertul and good-humoured, under all the little crosses, 
disasters, and disappointments of that rambling life. As many of us as re- 
mamed jogged on together to Sapponi cliapel, where 1 thanked major Mum- 
ford and Peter Jones for the trouble that they had taken in this long journey. 
That ceremony being duly performed, I filed off with my honest friend, Mr. 
Banister, to Iii-i liabitalioa on ilatuhei'-; run, vvlddi hiy i.i'.^oul il'iulceen miles 



120 -A- JOURNEY TO 

from the chapel above-mentioned. His good-humoured little wife was glad 
to see her runaway spouse returned in safety, and treated us kindly. It was 
no small pleasure to me, that my worthy friend found his family in good 
health, and his affairs in good order. He came into this ramble so frankly, 
that I should have been sorry if he had been a sufferer by it. In the gaiety 
of our hearts we drank our bottle a little too freely, which had an unusual 
effect on persons so long accustomed to simple element. We were both 
of us raised out of our beds in the same manner, and near the same time, 
which was a fair proof that people who breath the same air, and are engaged 
in the same way of living, will be very apt to fall into the same indispositions. 
And this may explain why distempers sometimes go round a family, without 
any reason to believe they are infectious, according to the superstition of the 
vulgar. 

16th. After pouring down a basin of chocolate, I wished peace to that 
house, and departed. As long as Mr. Banister had been absent from his 
family, he was yet so kind as to conduct me to major Mumford's, and which 
was more, his wife very obligingly consented to it. The major seemed over- 
joyed at his being returned safe and soimd from the perils of the woods, 
though his satisfaction had some check from the change his pretty wife had 
suffered in her complexion. The vermilion of her cheeks had given place a 
little to the saffron, by means of a small tincture of the yellow jaundice. I 
was sorry to see so fair a flower thus faded, and recommended the best re- 
medy I could think of After a refreshment of about an hour, we went on to 
Col. Boiling's, who was so gracious as to send us an invitation. As much in 
haste as I was to return to my family, I spent an hour or two at that place, 
but could by no means be persuaded to stay dinner, nor could even madam 
de Graffenriedt's smiles on one side of her face shake my resolution. From 
thence we proceeded to Col. Mumford's, who seemed to have taken a new 
lease, were any dependence to be upon looks, or any indulgence allowed to 
the wishes of his friends. An honester a man, a fairer trader, or a kinder 
friend, this country never produced : God send any of his sons may have the 
grace to take after him. We took a running repast with this good man, 
and then bidding adieu both to him and Mr. Banister, I mounted once more, 
and obstinately pursued my journey home, though the clouds threatened, and 
the heavens looked very lowering. I had not passed the court-house before it 
began to pour down like a spout upon me. Nevertheless, I pushed forward 
with vigour, and got dripping wet before I could reach Merchant's Hope Point. 
My boat was there luckily waiting for me, and wafted me safe over. And 
the joy of meeting my family in health made me in a moment forget all the 
fatigues of the journey, as much as if I had been husquenawed. However, 
the good Providence that attended me, and my whole company, will I hope 
stick fast in my memory, and make me everlastingly thankful. 



.1 list of our Company of all sorts. 

Myself, Thomas Wilson, Lawson, 

Major Mayo, Joseph Colson, Three Indians, 

Major Mumford, Harry Morris, Three negroes, 

Mr. Banister, Bobert Boiling, Twenty horses, 

Mr. Jones, Thomas Hooper, Four dogs, 



THE LAND OF EDEN. 



121 



My plat of ttventy thousand acres in North Carolina. Surveyed in Septem- 
ber, 1733, by Mr. Mayo, being Jfteen miles long, three broad at the ivesl end, 

and one at the cast. 

Virginia. 




North Carolina. 



a. Cascade creek. 



6. Lowland creek, 
e, Sauio creek. 



cr. Kishan branch. 
.° Sauro town. 



d. Sable creek. 



An account of the distances of places. 



From Westover to Col. Mumford's, 

From Col. Mumford's to major Mumford's, - 

From thence to Sapponi chapel, ... 

From thence to major Embry's on Nottoway, 

From thence to Brunswick court-house, - 

From thence to Meherrin river, - - . 

From thence to the ford on Roanoke, 

From thence to Col. Stith's copper mine, 

From thence to Butcher's creek, - 

From thence to Blue Stone Castle, - 

From thence to the ford into the fork, - 

From thence to Birche's creek, ... 

From thence to Banister river. 

From thence to Morris creek, - - - - 

From thence to the Medway, 

From thence to Maostie creek, 

From hence to Fork creek. 

From hence to Peter's creek, . - - - 

From hence to Jones' creek, 

From hence to the first ford over the Dan, 

From hence to Cane creek. 

From hence to the second ford of the Dan, 

From hence to the mouth of Sable creek, 

From hence to the south-east corner of my land, 

From thence to the Dan on my back line, 

From thence to the Irvin on my back line, 



1 6 miles. 

6 
20 
10 
15 

8 
12 
20 

6 
12 

7 

6 

o 
O 

14 

2 
6 
2 
2 

li 

2i 

4i 

8 

1 

8 

6 



122 A JOURNEY, &c. 

From thence to my south-west corner, . . . ^ 1 mile. 

From thence to my corner on the west of the Irvin, - - - 3 

From thence to the Dan along my upper-line, . . - 4i 

212 

From thence to the mouth of the Irvin, H 

From thence to Sauro creek, 2^ 

From thence to where my back-line crosses the Dan, - - 5 

From thence to my south-east corner, 8 

From thence to Cliff creek, 10 

From thence to Hixe's creek, 2 

From thence to Hatcher's creek, 1 

From thence to Cocquade creek, 5 

From thence to the upper ford of Hico river, . - - - 7 

From thence to Jesuit's creek, 4 

From thence to where the line cuts Sugar Tree creek, - - 5 
From thence to the mouth of Sugar Tree creek, ... 4 

From thence to the mouth of Hico river, 7 

From thence to Wilson's quarter on Tewahominy creek, - 1 

From thence to the Dan, 1 

From thence across'the fork to the Staunton, ... 2 

From thence to Blue Stone Castle, 7 

From thence to Sandy creek, 5 

From thence to Mr. Mumford's plantation, - - - - 2 

From thence to Butcher's creek, 5 

From thence to Allen's creek, 9 

From thence to Joshua Nicholson's on Meherrin, - - ■ 18 

From thence to Brunswick court-house, 8 

From thence to Nottoway bridge, 14 

From thence to Sapponi Chapel, 10 

From thence to Mr. Banister's on Hatcher's run, - - - 12 

From thence to Col. Boiling's plantation, 9 

From thence to Col. Mumford's plantation, .... 5 

From thence to Westover, 16 

— -184 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES, 



IN THE YEAR 1732. 



September 18th. For the pleasure of the good company of Mrs. Byrd, 
and her little governor, my son, I went about half way to the falls in the 
chariot. There we halted, not far from a purling stream, and upon the 
stump of a propagate oak picked the bones of a piece of roast beef. By 
the spirit which that gave me, I was the better able to part with the dear 
companions of my travels, and to perform the rest of my journey on horse- 
back by myself. I reached Shacco's before two o'clock, and crossed the 
river to the mills. I had the grief to find them both stand as still, for the want 
of water, as a dead woman's tongue, for want of breath. It had rained 
so little for many weeks above the falls, that the Naiades had hardly water 
enough left to wash their faces. However, as we ought to turn all our mis- 
fortunes to the best advantage, I directed Mr. Booker, my first minister 
there, to make use of the lowness of the water for blowing up the rocks at 
the mouth of the canal. For that purpose I ordered iron drills to be made 
about two feet long, pointed with steel, chisel fashion, in order to make 
holes, into which we put our cartridges of powder, containing each about three 
ounces. There wanted skill among my engineers to choose the best parts of 
the stone for boring, that we might blow to the most advantage. They 
made all then; holes quite perpendicular, whereas they should have humoured 
the grain of the stone for the more effectual execution. I ordered the points 
of the drills to be made chisel way, rather than the diamond, that they might 
need to be seldomer repaired, though in stone the diamond points would 
make the most despatch. The water now flowed out of the river so slowly, 
that the miller was obliged to pond it up in the canal, by setting open the 
flood-gates at the mouth, and shutting those close at the mill. By this con- 
trivance, he was able at any time to grind two or three bushels, either for his 
choice customers, or for the use of my plantations. Then I walked to the 
place where they broke the flax, which is wrought with much greater ease 
than the hemp, and is much better for spinning. From thence I paid a visit 
to the weaver, who needed a little of Minerva's inspiration to make the most 
of a piece of cloth. Then I looked in upon my Caledonian spinster, who was 
mended more in her looks than in her humour. However, she promised 
much, though at the same time intended to perform little. She is too high- 
spirited for Mr. Booker, who hates to have his sweet temper ruffled, and will 
rather suffer matters to go a little wrong sometimes, than give his 
righteous spirit any uneasiness. He is very honest, and would make an 
admirable overseer where servants will do as they are bid. But eye-servants, 
who want abundance of overlooking, are not so proper to be committed to 
his care. I found myself out of order, and for that reason retired early ; yet 
with all this precaution had a gentle fever in the night, but towards morning 
nature set open all her gates, and drove it out in a plentiful perspiration. 



124 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

19th. The worst of this fever was, that it put me to the necessity of 
taking another ounce of bark. I moistened every dose with a little brandy, 
and filled the glass up with water, which is the least nauseous way of taking 
this popish medicine, and besides hinders it from purging. After I liad 
swallowed a few poached eggs, we rode down to the mouth of the canal, and 
from thence crossed over to the broad rock island in a canoe. Our errand 
was to view some iron ore, v.diich we dug up in two places. That on the 
surface seemed very spongy and poor, which gave us no great encourage- 
ment to search deeper, nor did the quantity appear to be very great. How- 
ever, for my greater satisfaction, I ordered a hand to dig there for some time 
this winter. We walked from one end of the island to the other, being about 
half a mile in length, and found the soil very good, and too high for any flood, 
less than that of Deucalion, to do the least damage. There is a very wild 
prospect both upward and downward, the river being full of rocks, over 
which the stream tumbled with a murmur, loud enough to drown the notes 
of a scolding wife. This island would make an agreeable hermitage for any 
good Christian, who had a mind to retire from the world. Mr. Booker told 
me how Di*. Ireton had cured him once of a looseness, which had been upon 
him two whole years. He ordered him a dose of rhubarb, with directions to 
take twenty-five drops of laudanum so soon as he had had two physical 
stools. Then he rested one day, and the next he ordered him another dose 
of the same quantity of laudanum to be taken, also after tjie second stool. 
When this was done, he finished the cure by giving him twenty drops of 
laudanum every night for five nights running. The doctor insisted upon the 
necessity of stopping the operation of the rhubarb before it worked quite off", 
that what remained behind might strengthen the bowels. I was punctual in 
swallowing my bark, and that I might use exercise upon it, rode to Prince's 
Folly, and my Lord's islands, where I saw very fine corn. In the mean time 
Vulcan came in order to make the drills for boring the rocks, and gave 
me his parole he would, by the grace of God, attend the works till they were 
finished, which he performed as lamely as if he had been to labour for a 
dead horse, and not for ready money. I made a North Carolina dinner upon 
fresh pork, though we had a plate of green peas after it, by way of desert, for 
the safety of our noses. Then my first minister and I had some serious con- 
versation about my aftairs, and I find nothing disturbed his peaceable spirit 
so much as the misbehavior of the spinster above-mentioned. I told him I 
could not pity a man, who had it always in his power to do himself and her 
justice, and would not. If she were a drunkard, a scold, a thief, or a slander- 
er, we had wholesome laws, that would make her back smart for the diver- 
sion of her other members, and it was his fault he had not put those whole- 
some severities in execution. I retired in decent time to my own apartment, 
and slept very comfortably upon my bark, forgetting all the little crosses 
arising from overseers and negroes. 

20th. I continued the bark, and then tossed down my poached eggs, with as 
much ease as some good breeders slip children into the world. About nine 
I left the prudentest orders I could think of with my vizier, and then crossed 
the- river to Shacco's. I made a running visit to three of my quarters, where, 
besides finding all the people well, I had the pleasure to see better crops than 
usual both of corn and tobacco. I parted there with my intendant, and pur- 
sued my journey to Mr. Randolph's, at Tuckahoe, without meeting with any 
adventure by the way. Here I found Mrs. Fleming, vvho was packing up 
her baggage with design to follow her husband the next day, who was gone 
to a new settlement in Goochland. Both he and she have been about seven 
years persuading themselves to remove to that retired part of the country, 
though they had the two strong arguments of health and interest for so doing. 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. ]25 

The widow smiled graciously upon me, and entertained me very handsomely. 
Here 1 learned all the tragical story of her daughter's humble marriage with 
her uncle's overseer. Besides the meanness of this mortal's aspect, the man 
has not one visible qualification, except impudence, to recommend him to a 
female's inclinations. But there is sometimes such a charm in that Hibernian 
endowment, that frail woman cannot withstand it, though it stand alone 
without any other recommendation. Had she run away with a gentleman 
or a pretty fellow, there might have been some excuse for her, though he 
were of inferior fortune : but to stoop to a dirty plebeian, without any kind 
of merit, is the lowest prostitution. I found the family justly enraged at it ; 
and though I had more good nature than to join in her condemnation, yet I 
could devise no excuse for so senseless a prank as this young gentlewoman had 
played. Here good drink was more scarce than good victuals, the family 
being reduced to the last bottle of wine, which was therefore husbanded very 
carefully. But the water was excellent. The heir of the family did not 
come home till late in the evening. He is a pretty young man, but had the 
misfortune to become his own master too soon. 'This puts young fellows 
upon wrong pursuits, before they have sense to judge rightly for tiiemselves. 
Though at the same time they have a strange conceit of their own sutficiency, 
when they grow near twenty years old, especially if they happen to have a 
small smattering of learning. It is then they fancy themselves wiser than 
all their tutors and governors, which makes them headstrong to all advice, 
and above all reproof and admonition. 

21st. I was sorry in the morning to find myself stopped in my career by 
bad weather brought upon us by a north-east wind. This drives a world 
of raw unkindly vapours upon us from Newfoundland, laden with blight, 
coughs, and pleurisies. However, I complained not, lest I might be sus- 
pected to be tired of the good company. Though Mrs. Fleming was not 
so much upon her guard, but mutinied strongly at the rain, that hindered 
her from pursuing her dear husband. I said what I could to comfort a gen- 
tlewoman under so sad a disappointment. I told her a husband, that stayed 
so much at home as her's did, could be no such violent rarity, as for a wo- 
man to venture her precious health, to go daggling through the rain after 
him, or to be miserable if she happened to be prevented. That it was 
prudent for married people to fast sometimes from one another, that they 
might come together again with the better stomach. That the best things in 
this world, if constantly used, are apt to be cloying, which a little absence 
and abstinence would prevent. This was strange doctrine to a fond female, 
who fancies people should love with as little reason after marriage as before. 
In the afternoon monsieur Marij, the minister of the parish, came to make me 
a visit. He had been a Romish priest, but found reasons, either spiritual or 
temporal, to quit that gay religion. The fault of this new convert is, that he 
looks for as much respect from his protestant flock, as is paid to the popish 
clergy, which our ill-bred Hugonots do not understand. Madam Marij, had 
so much curiosity as to want to come too ; but another horse was wanting, 
and she believed it would have too vulgar an air to ride behind her husband. 
This woman was of the true exchange breed, full of discourse, but void of 
discretion, and married a parson, with the idle hopes he might some time or 
other come to be his grace of Canterbury. The gray mare is the better 
horse in that family, and the poor man submits to her wild vagaries for peace' 
sake. She has just enough of the fine lady, to run in debt, and be of no 
signification in her household. And the only thing that can prevent her 
from undoing her loving husband will be, that nobody will trust them beyond 
the sixteen thousand,* which is soon run out in a Goochland store. The 

• Sixteen thousand pounds of tobacco was the legal salary of a minister.— En. 
R 



126 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

way of dealing there is, for some small merchant or pedler to buy a Scots 
pennyworth of goods, and clap one hundred and fifty per cent, upon that. 
At this rate the parson cannot be paid much more for his preaching than it 
is worth. No sooner was our visiter retired, but the facetious widow was 
so kind as to let me into all this secret history, but was at the same time 
ex'ceedingly sorry that the woman should be so indiscreet, and the man so 
tame as to be governed by an unprofitable and fantastical wife. 

22d. We had another wet day, to try both Mrs. Fleming's patience and 
my good breeding. The north-east wind commonly sticks by us three or 
four days, filling the atmosphere with damps, injurious both to man and 
beast. The worst of it was, we had no good liquor to warm our blood, and 
fortify our spirits against so strong a malignity. However, I was cheerful 
under all these misfortunes, and expressed no concern but a decent fear lest 
my long visit might be troublesome. Since I was like to have thus much 
leisure, I endeavoured to find out what subject a dull married man could 
introduce that might best bring the widow to the use of her tongue. At 
length I discovered she was a notable quack, and therefore paiil that regard 
to her knowledge, as to put some questions to her about the bad distemper 
that raged then in the country. I mean the bloody flux, that was brought 
us in the negro-ship consigned to Col. Braxton. She told me she made use 
of very simple remedies in that case, with very good success. She did the 
business either with hartshorn drink, that had plantain leaves boiled in it, 
or eJse with a strong decoction of St. Andrew's cross, in new milk instead 
of water. I agreed with her that those remedies might be very good, but 
would be more effectual after a dose or two of Indian physic. But for fear 
this conversation might be too grave for a widow, I turned the discourse, 
and began to talk of plays, and finding her taste lay most towards comedy, 
I oflfered my service to read one to her, which she kindly accepted. She 
produced the second part of the Beggar's Opera, which had diverted the 
town for forty nights successively, and gained four thousand pounds to the 
author. This was not owing altogether to the wit or humour that spark- 
led in it, but to some political reflections, that seemed to hit the minis- 
try. But the great advantage of the author was, that his interest was so- 
licited by the dutchess of Glueensbury, which no man could refuse who had 
but half an eye in his head, or half a guinea in his pocket. Her grace, like 
death, spared nobody, but even took my lord Selkirk in for two guineas, to 
repair which extravagance he lived upon Scots herrings two months after- 
wards. But the best story was, she made a very smart ofincer in his majes- 
ty's guards give her a guinea, who swearing at the same time it was all he 
had in the world, she sent him fifty for it the next day, to reward his obe- 
dience. After having acquainted my company with the history of the play, 
I read three acts of it, and left Mrs. Fleming and I\Tr. Randolph to finish it, 
who read as well as most actors do at a rehearsal. Thus we killed the time, 
and triumphed over the bad weather. 

2od. The clouds continued to drive from the north-east, and to menace us 
with more rain. But as the lady resolved to venture through it, I thought it 
a shame for me to venture to flinch. Therefore, after fortifying myself with 
two capacious dishes of coffee, and making my compliments to the ladies, 
I mounted, and Mr. Randolph was so kind as to be my guide. At the dis- 
tance of about three miles, in a path as narrow as that v/hich leads to heaven, 
but much more darty, we reached the homely dwelling of the reverend Mi*. 
Marij. His land is much more barren than his wife, and needs all Mr. 
Bradley's skill in agriculture to make it bring corn. Thence we proceeded 
five miles farther, to a mill of Mr. Randolph's, that is apt to stand still when 
there falls but little rain, and to be carried away when there falls a great 
deal. Then we pursued a very blind path four miles farther, which puz- 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. J27 

sled my guide, who I suspect led me out of the way. At length we came 
into a great road, where he took leave, after giving me some very confused 
directions, and so left me to blunder out the rest of the journey by myself. 
I lost myself more than once, but soon recovered the right way again. About 
three miles after quitting my guide, I passed the south branch of Pamunky 
river, near fifty yards over, and full of stones. After this, I had eight miles 
to Mr. Chiswell's, where I arriv^ed about two o'clock, and saved my dinner. 
I was very handsomely entertained, finding every thing very clean, and very 
good. I had not seen Mrs. Chiswell in twenty-four years, which, alas ! had 
made great havoc with her pretty face, and ploughed very deep furrows in 
her fair skin. It was impossible to know her again, so much the flower was 
faded. However, though she was grown an old woman, yet she was one 
of those absolute rarities, a very good old woman. I found Mr. Chiswell a 
sensible, well-bred man, and very frank in communicating his knowledge in 
the mystery of making iron, wherein he has had long experience. I told 
him I was come to spy the land, and inform myself of the expense of 
carrying on an iron work with effect. That I sought my instruction from 
him, who understood the whole mystery, having gained full experience in 
every part of it ; only I was very sorry he had bought that experience so 
dear. He answered that he would, with great sincerity, let me into the little 
knowledge he had, and so we immediately entered upon the business. He 
assured me the first step I was to take was to acquaint myself fully with 
the quantity and quality of my ore. For that reason I ought to keep a good 
pick-axe man at work a whole year to search if there be a sufficient quantity, 
without which it would be a very rash undertaking. That I should also 
have a skilful person to try the richness of the ore. Nor is it great advan- 
tage to have it exceeding rich, because then it will yield brittle iron, which 
is not valuable. But the way to have it tough is to mix poor ore and rich 
together, which makes the poorer sort extremely necessary for the produc- 
tion of the best iron. Then he showed me a sample of the richest ore they 
have in England, which yields a full moiety of iron. It was of a pale red 
colour, smooth and greasy, and not exceedingly heavy ; but it produced so 
brittle a metal, that they were obliged to melt a poorer ore along with it. 
He told me, after I was certain ray ore was good and plentiful enough, my 
next inquiry ought to be, how far it lies from a stream proper to build a 
furnace upon, and again what distance that furnace will be from water car- 
riage; because the charge of carting a great way is very heavy, and eats 
out a great part of the profi.t. That this was the misfortune of the mines of 
Fredericksville, where they were obliged to cart the ore a mile to the furnace, 
and after it was run into iron, to carry that twenty-four miles, over an uneven 
road to Rappahannock river, about a mile below Fredericksburg, to a planta- 
tion the company rented of Col. Page. If I were satisfied with the situation, 
I was in the next place to consider whether I had woodland enough near 
the furnace to supply it with charcoal, whereof it would require a prodigious 
quantity. That the properest wood for that purpose was that of oily kind, 
such as pine, walnut, hickory, oak, and in short all that yields cones, nuts, 
or acorns. That two miles square of wood, would supply a ^moderate fur- 
nace; so that what you fell first may have time to gi'ow up again to a pro- 
per bigness (which must be four inches over) by that time the rest is cut 
down. He told me farther, that one hundred and twenty slaves, including wo- 
men, were necessary to carry on all the business of an iron work, and the 
more Virginians amongst them the better ; though in that number he com- 
prehended carters, colliers, and those that planted the corn. That if there 
should be much carting, it would require one thousand six hundred barrels 
of corn yearly to support the people, and the cattle employed; nor does even 



128 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

that quantity suffice at Fredericksville. That if all these circumstances 
should happily concur, and you could procure honest colliers and firemen, 
which will be difficult to do, you may easily run eight hundred tons of sow 
iron a year. The whole charge of freight, custom, commission, and other 
expenses in England, will not exceed thirty shillings a ton, and it will com- 
monly sell for six pounds, and then the clear profit will amount to four 
pounds and ten shillings. So that allov.'ing the ten shillings for accidents, 
you may reasonably expect a clear profit of four pounds, which being multi- 
plied by eight hundred, will amount to three thousand two hundred pounds a 
year, to pay you for your land and negroes. But then it behooved me to be 
fully informed of the whole matter myself, to prevent being imposed upon ; 
and if any offered to put tricks upon me, to punish them as they deserve. 
Thus ended our conversation for this day, and I retired to a very clean 
lodging in another house, and took my bark, but was forced to take it in 
water, by reason a light fingered damsel had ransacked my baggage, and 
drunk up my brandy. This unhappy girl, it seems, is a baronet's daughter ; 
but her complexion, being red-haired, inclined her so much to lewdness, that 
her father sent her, under the care of the virtuous Mr. Cheep, to seek her for- 
tune on this side the globe. 

24th. My friend, Mr. Chiswell, made me reparation for the robbery of his 
servant, by filling my bottle again with good brandy. It being Sunday, I 
made a motion for going to church, to see the growth of the parish, but un- 
luckily the sermon happened to be at the chapel, which was too far off. I 
was unwilling to tire my friend with any farther discourse upon iron, and 
therefore turned the conversation to other subjects. And talking of manage- 
ment, he let me into two secrets worth remembering. He said the quickest 
way in the world to stop the fermentation of any liquor was to keep a light- 
ed match of brimstone under the cask for some time. This is useful in so 
warm a country as this, where cider is apt to work itself off both of 
its strength and sweetness. The other secret was to keep weevils out of 
wheat and other grain. You have nothing to do, said he, but to put a bag 
of pepper into every heap, or cask, which those insects have such an anti- 
pathy to that they will not approach it. These receipts he gave me, not 
upon report, but upon his own repeated experience. He farther told me he 
had brewed as good ale of malt made of Indian corn as ever he tasted ; 
all the objection was, he could neither by art, or standing, ever bring it to 
be fine in the cask. The quantity of corn he employed in brevi^ing a cask 
of forty gallons was two bushels and a half, which made it very strong and 
pleasant. We had a haunch of venison for dinner, as fat and well tasted as 
if it had come out of Richmond park. In these upper parts of the country 
the deer are in better case than below, though I believe the buck which gave 
us so good a dinner had eaten out his value in peas, which will make deer ex- 
ceedingly fat. In the afternoon, I walked with my friend to his mill, which 
is half a mile from his house. It is built upon a rock very firmly, so that it 
is more apt to suffer by too little water, (the run not being over plentiful,) 
than too much. On the other side of this stream lie several of Col. Jones' 
plantations. The poor negroes upon them are a kind of Adamites, very 
scantily supplied with clothes and other necessaries ; nevertheless, (which is 
a little incomprehensible,) they continue in perfect health, and none of them 
die, except it be of age. However, they are even with their master, and 
make him but indifferent crops, so that he gets nothing by his unjustice, but 
the scandal of it. And here I must make one remark, which I am a little 
unwilling to do for fear of encouraging of cruelty, that those negroes which 
are kept the barest of clothes and bedding are commonly the freest from 
sickness. And this happens, I suppose, by their being all face, and therefore 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. |29 

better proof against the sudden changes of weather, to which this chmate is 
unhappily subject. 

25th. After saying some very civil things to Mrs. Chiswell, for my hand- 
some entertainment, I mounted my horse, and Mr. Chisvvell his phaeton, in 
order to go to the mines at Fredericksville. We could converse very little 
by the way, by reason of our different voitures. The road was very straight 
and level tiie whole journey, which was twenty-live miles, the last ten 
whereof I rode in the chair, and my friend on my horse, to ease ourselves by 
that variety of motion. About a mile before we got to Fredericksville, we 
forded over the north branch of Pamunky, about sixty yards over. Neither 
this nor the south branch run up near so high as the mountains, but many miles 
below them spread out into a kind of morass, like Chickahominy. When we 
approached the mines, there opened to our view a large space of cleared 
ground, whose wood had been cut down for coaling. We arrived here about 
two o'clock, and Mr. Chisvvell had been so provident as to bring a cold 
venison pasty, with which we appeased our appetites, without the impatience 
of waiting. When our tongues were at leisure for discourse, my friend told 
me there was one Mr. Harrison, in England, who is so universal a dealer in 
all sorts of iron, that he could govern the market just as he pleased. That 
it was by his artful management that our iron from the plantations sold 
for less than that made in England, though it was generally reckoned much 
better. That ours would hardly fetch six pounds a ton, when their's fetched 
seven or eight, purely to serve that man's interest. Then he explained the 
several charges upon our sow iron, after it was put on board the ships. That 
in the first place it paid seven shillings and sixpence a ton for freight, being 
just so much clear gain to the ships, which carry it as ballast, or wedge it in 
among the hogsheads. When it gets home, it pays three shillings and nine- 
pence custom. These articles together make no more than eleven shillings 
and three pence, and yet the merchants, by their great skill in multiplying 
charges, swell the account up to near thirty shillings a ton by that time it 
gets out of their hands, and they are continually adding more and more, as 
they serve us in our accounts of tobacco. He told me a strange thing about 
steel, that the making of the best remains at this day a profound secret in 
the breast of a very few, and therefore is in danger of being lost, as the art 
of staining of glass, and many others, have been. He could only tell me they 
used beech wood in the making of it in Europe, and burn it a considerable 
time in powder of charcoal ; but the mystery lies in the liquor they quench 
it in. After dinner we took a walk to the furnace, which is elegantly built of 
brick, though the hearth be of fire-stone. There we saw the founder, Mr. 
Derham, who is paid four shillings for every ton of sow iron that he runs, 
which is a shilling cheaper than the last workman had. This operator looked 
a little melancholy, because he had nothing to do, the furnace having been 
cold ever since May, for want of corn to support the cattle. This was how- 
ever no neglect of Mr. Chiswell, because all the persons he had contracted 
with had basely disappointed him. But having received a small supply, they 
intended to blow very soon. With that view they began to heat the furnace, 
which is six weeks before it comes to that intense heat required to run the 
metal in perfection. Neverthless, they commonly begin to blow when the 
fire has been kindled a week or ten days. Close by the furnace stood a 
very spacious house full of charcoal, holding at least four hundred loads, 
which will be burnt out in three months. The company has contracted with 
Mr. Harry Willis to fall the wood, and then maul it and cut it into pieces of 
four feet in length, and bring it to the pits where it is to be coaled. All this 
he has undertaken to do for two shillings a cord, which must be four feet 
broad, four feet high, and eight feet long. Being thus carried to the pits, the 



130 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

collier has contracted to coal it for five shillings a load, consisting of one hun- 
dred and sixty bushels. The fire in the furnace is blown by two mighty pairs 
of bellows, that cost one hundred pounds each, and these bellows are moved 
by a great wheel of twenty-six feet diameter. The wheel again is carried 
round by a small stream of water, conveyed about three hundred and fifty 
yards over land in a trough, from a pond made by a wooden dam. But 
there is great want of water in a dry season, which makes the furnace often 
blow out, to the great prejudice of the works. Having thus filled my head 
with all these particulars, w^e returned to the house, where, after talking of 
Col. Spotswood, and his stratagems to shake off his partners, and secure all 
his mines to himself, I retired to a homely lodging, which, like a homespun 
mistress, had been more tolerable, if it had been sweet. 

26th. Over our tea, Mr. Chiswell told me the expense which the company 
had been already at amounted to near twelve thousand pounds: but then 
the land, negroes, and cattle were all included in that charge. However, 
the money began now to come in, they having run twelve hundred tons of 
iron, and all their heavy disbursements were over. Only they were still 
forced to buy great quantities of corn, because they had not strength of 
their own to make it. That they had not more than eighty negroes, and 
few of those Virginia born. That they need forty negroes more to carry on 
all the business with their own force. They have fifteen thousand acres of 
land, though little of it rich except in iron, and of that they have a great 
quantity. Mr. Fitzwilliam, took up the mine tract, and had the address to 
draw in the governor, Capt. Pearse, Dr. Nicolas and Mr. Chiswell to be jointly 
concerned with him, by which contrivance he first got a good price for the 
land, and then, when he had been very little out of pocket, sold his share to 
Mr. Nelson for five hundred pounds ; and of these gentlemen the company 
at present consists. And Mr. Chiswell is the only person amongst them that 
knows any thing of the matter, and has one hundred pounds a year for look- 
ing after the works, and richly deserves it. After breaking our fast we took 
a walk to the principal mine, about a mile from the furnace, where they had 
sunk in some places about fifteen or twenty feet deep. The operator, Mr. 
Gordon, raised the ore, for which he was to have by contract one and six- 
pence per cart-load of twenty-six hundred weight. This man was obliged 
to hire all the laborers he wanted for this work of the company, after the 
rate of twenty-five shillings a month, and for all that was able to clear forty 
pounds a-year for himself We saw here several large heaps of ore of two 
sorts, one of rich, and the other spongy and poor, which they melted together 
to make the metal more tough. The way of raising the ore was by blowing 
it up, which operation I saw here from beginning to end. They first drilled 
a hole in the mine, either upright or sloping, as the grain of it required. 
This hole they cleansed with a rag fastened to the end of an iron with a 
worm at the end of it. Then they put in a cartridge of powder containing 
about three ounces, and at the same time a reed full of fuse that reached to 
the powder. Then they rammed dry clay, or soft stone very hard into the 
hole, and lastly they fired the fuse with a paper that had been dipped in a 
solution of saltpetre and dried, which burning slow and sure, gave leisure to 
the engineer to retire to a proper distance before the explosion. This in the 
miner's language is called making a blast, which will loosen several hundred 
weight of ore at once ; and afterwards the laborers easily separate it with 
pick-axes and carry it away in baskets up to the heap. At our return we 
saw near the furnace large heaps of mine with charcoal mixed with it, a 
stratum of each alternately, beginning first with a layer of charcoal at the 
bottom. To this they put fire, which in a little time spreads through the 
whole heap, and calcines the ore, which afterwards easily crumbles into 



PROGRKSb TO THE MlxNES. j3| 

small pieces fit for the furnace. There was likewise a mighty quantity of 
limestone, brought from Bristol, by way of ballast, at two and sixpence a ton, 
which they are at the trouble to cart hither from Rappahannock river, but 
contrive to do it when the carts return from carrying of iron. They put 
this into the furnace with the iron ore, in the proportion of one ton of stone to 
ten of ore, with design to absorb the sulphur out of the iron, which w'ould. 
otherwise make it brittle. And if that be the use of it, oyster shells would 
certainly do as well as limestone, being altogether as strong an alkali, if not 
stronger. Nor can their being taken out of salt water be any objection, be- 
cause it is pretty certain the Vvest India limestone, which is thrown up 
by the sea, is even better than that imported from Bristol. But the founders 
who never tried either of these will by no means be persuaded to go out of 
their way, though the reason of the thing be never so evident. I observed 
the richer sort of mine, being of a dark colour mixed v/ith rust, was laid in 
a heap by itself, and so was the poor, which was of a liver or brick colour. 
The sow iron is in the figure of a half-round, about two feet and a half-long, 
weighing sixty or seventy pounds, whereof three hundred weight make a 
cart-load drawn by eight oxen, which are commonly shod to save their hoofs 
in those stony ways. When the furnace blows, it runs about twenty tons of 
iron a week. The founders find it very hot work to tend the furnace, es- 
pecially in summer, and are obliged to spend no small part of their earnings 
in strong drink to recruit their spirits. Besides the foundfer, the collier, and 
miner, Avho are paid in proportion to their work, the company have several 
other officers upon wages, a stock-taker, who weighs and measures every 
thing, a clerk, who keeps an account of all receipts and disbursements, a 
smith to shoe their cattle, and keep all their iron work in repair, a wheel- 
wright, cartwright, carpenter, and several carters. The wages of all these 
persons amount to one hundred pounds a year ; so that including Mr. Chis- 
well's salary, they disburse two hundred pounds per annum in standing 
wages. The provisions too are a heavy article, which their plantations do not 
yet produce in a sufficient quantity, though they are at the charge of a gene- 
ral overseer. But while corn is so short with them, there can be no great 
increase of stock of any kind. 

27th. Having now pretty well exhausted the subject of sow iron, I asked 
my friend some questions about bar-iron. He told me we had as yet no 
forge erected in Virginia, though we had four furnaces. But there was a 
very good one set up at the head of the bay in Maryland, that made exceed- 
ing good work. He let me know that the duty in England upon bar iron 
was twenty-four shillings a ton, and that it sold there from ten to sixteen 
pounds a ton. This would pay the charge of forging abundantly, but he 
doubted the parliament of England would soon forbid us that improvement, 
lest after that we should go farther, and manufacture our bars into all sorts 
of iron ware, as they already do in New England and Pennsylvania. Nay, 
he questioned whether we should be suffered to cast any iron, which they 
can do themselves at their furnaces. Thus ended our conversation, and I 
thanked my friend for being so free in communicating every thing to me. 
Then, after tipping a pistole to the clerk, to drink prosperity to the mines 
with all the workmen, I accepted the kind offer of going part of my journey 
in the phaeton. I took my leave about ten, and drove over a spacious level 
road ten miles, to a bridge built over the river Po, which is one of the four 
branches of Matapony, about forty yards wide. Two miles beyond that, 
we passed by a plantation belonging to the company, of about five hundred 
acres, where they keep a great number of oxen to relieve those that have 
dragged their loaded carts thus far. Three miles farther we came to tlie Ger- 
manna road, where I quitted the chair, and continued my journey on horse- 



132 PROGKESS TO THE MIJ\'ES 

back. I rode eiglit iiiiles together over a stony road, and had on either side 
continual poisoned fields, with nothing but saplings growing on thein. Then 
I came into the main county road, that leads from Fredericksburg to Ger- 
manna, which last place I reached in ten miles more. This famous town 
consists of Col. Spotswood's enchanted castle on one side of the street, and 
a baker's dozen of ruinous tenements on the other, where so many German 
families had dwelt some years ago ; but are now removed ten miles higher, 
in the fork of Rappahannock, to land of their own. There had also been a 
chapel about a bow-shot from the colonel's house, at the end of an avenue 
of cherry trees, but some pious people had lately burnt it down, with intent 
to get another built nearer to their own homes. Here I arrived about three 
o'clock, and found only Mrs. Spotswood at home, who received her old ac- 
quaintance with many a gracious smile. I was carried into a room elegantly 
set off with pier glasses, the largest of which came soon after to an odd misfor- 
tune. Amongst other favourite animals that cheered this lady's solitude, a 
brace of tame deer ran familiarly about the house, and one of them came to 
stare at me as a stranger. But unluckily spying his own figure in the glass, 
he made a spring over the tea table that stood under it, and shattered the 
glass to pieces, and falling back upon the tea table, made a terrible fracas 
among the china. This exploit was so sudden, and accompanied with such 
a noise, that it surprised me, and perfectly frightened Mrs. Spotswood. But 
it was worth all the damage, to show the moderation and good humour with 
which she bore this disaster. In the evening the noble colonel came home 
from his mines, who saluted me very civilly, and Mrs. Spotswood's sister, 
Miss Theky, who had been to meet him en cavalier, was so kind too as to 
bid me welcome. We talked over a legend of old stories, supped about 
nine, and then prattled with the ladies, till it was time for a traveller to retire. 
In the mean time I observed my old friend to be very uxorious, and exceed- 
ingly fond of his children. This was so opposite to the maxims he used to 
preach up before he was married, that I could not forbear rubbing up the 
memory of them. But he gave a very good-natured turn to his change of 
sentiments, by alleging that whoever brings a poor gentlewoman into so soli- 
tary a place, from all her friends and acquaintance, would be ungrateful not 
to use her and all that belongs to her with all possible tenderness. 

28th. We all kept snug in our several apartments till nine, except Miss 
Theky, who was the housewife of the family. At that hour we met over a 
pot of coffee, which was not quite strong enough to give us the palsy. 
After breakfast the colonel and I left the ladies to their domestic affairs, and 
took a turn in the garden, which has nothing beautiful but three terrace 
walks that fall in slopes one below another. I let him understand, that be- 
sides the pleasure of paying him a visit, I came to be instructed by so great a 
master in the mystery of making of iron, wherein he had led the way, and was 
the Tubal Cain of Virginia. He corrected me a little there, by assuring me he 
was not only the first in this country, but the first in North America, who 
had erected a regular furnace. That they ran altogether upon bloomeries in 
New England and Pennsylvania, till his example had made them attempt 
greater works. But in this last colony, they have so few ships to carry their 
iron to Great Britain, that they must be content to make it only for their own 
use, and must be obliged to manufacture it when they have done. That he 
hoped he had done the country very great service by setting so good an ex- 
ample. That the four furnaces now at work in Virgmia circulated a great 
sum of money for provisions and all other necessaries in the adjacent coun- 
ties. That they took off a great number of hands from planting tobacco, 
and employed them in works that produced a large sum of money in England 
to the persons concerned, whereby the country is so much the richer. That 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. |33 

tliey are besides a considerable advantage to Great Britain, because it lessens 
the quantity of bar iron imported from Spain, Holland, Sweden, [Denmark 
and Muscovy, which used to be no less than twenty thousand tons yearly, 
though at the same time no sow iron is imported thither from any country 
but only from the plantations. For most of tiiis bar iron they do not only 
pay silver, but our friends in the Baltic are so nice, they even expect to be 
paid all in crown pieces. On the contrary, all the iron they receive from the 
plantations, they pay for it in their own manufactures, and .send for it in their 
own sliipping. Then I inquired after his own mines, and hoped, as he was 
the first that engaged in this great undertaking, tliat he had brought them to 
the most perfection. He told me he had iron in several parts of his great 
tract of land, consisting of forty-five thousand acres. But that the mine he 
was at work upon was thirteen miles below Germanna. That his ore (which 
was very rich) he raised a mile from his furnace, and was obliged to cart the 
iron, when it was made, fifteen miles to Massaponux, a plantation he had 
upon Rappahannock river; but that the road was exceeding good, gently 
declining all the way, and had no more than one hill to go up in the whole 
journey. For tliis reason his loaded carts went it in a day without difficulty. 
He said it was true his works were of the oldest standing : but that his long 
absence in England, and the wretched management of Mr, Greame, whom he 
had entrusted with his affairs, had put him back very much. That what 
with neglect and severity, above eighty of his slaves were lost while he was 
in England, and most of his cattle starved. That his furnace stood still 
great part of the time, and all his plantations ran to ruin. That indeed he 
was rightly served for committing his aflfairs to the care of a mathematician, 
whose thoughts were always among the stars. That nevertheless, since his 
return, he had applied himself to rectify his steward's mistakes, and bring his 
business again into order. That now he had contrived to do every thing 
with his own people, except raising the mine and running the iron, by which 
he had contracted his expense very much. Nay, he believed that by his 
directions he could bring sensible negroes to perform those parts of the work 
tolerably well. But at the same time he gave me to understand, that his 
furnace had done no great feats lately, because he had been taken up in 
building an air furnace at Massaponux, which he had now brought to per- 
fection, and should be thereby able to furnish the whole country with all 
sorts of cast iron, as cheap and as good as ever came from England. I told 
him he must do one thing more to have a full vent for those commodities, he 
must keep a shallop running into all the rivers, to carry his wares home to 
people's own doors. And if he would do that I would set a good example, 
and take off" a whole ton of them. Our conversation on this subject con- 
tinued till dinner, which was both elegant and plentiful. The afternoon was 
devoted to the ladies, who showed me one of their most beautiful walks. 
They conducted me through a shady lane to the landing, and by the way 
made me drink some very fine water that issued from a marble fountain, and 
ran incessantly. Just behind it was a covered bench, where Miss Theky 
often sat and bewailed her virginity. Then we proceeded to the river, 
which is the south branch of Rappahannock, about fifty yards wide, and so 
rapid that the ferry boat is drawn over by a chain, and therefore called the 
Rapidan. At night we drank prosperity to all the colonel's projects in a bowl 
of rack punch, and then retired to our devotions. 

2yth. Having employed about two hours in retirement, I sallied out at the 
first summons to breakfast, where our conversation with the ladies, like whip 
sillabub, was very pretty, but had nothing in it. This it seems was Miss 
Theky's birth day, upon which I made iier my compliments, and wished she 
might live twice as long a married woman as she had lived a maid. I did 

S 



134 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

not presume to pry into the secret of her age, nor was she forward to dis- 
close it, for this humble reason, lest I should think her wisdom fell short of 
her years. She contrived to make this day of her birth a day of mourning, 
for having nothing better at present to set her affections upon, she had a dog 
that was a great favourite. It happened that very morning the poor cur had 
done something very uncleanly upon the colonel's bed, for which he was con- 
demned to die. However, upon her entreaty, she got him a reprieve ; but 
was so concerned that so much severity should be intended on her birth day, 
that she was not to be comforted ; and lest such another accident might oust 
the poor cur of his clergy, she protested she would board out her dog at a 
neighbour's house, where she hoped he would be more kindly treated. Then 
the colonel and I took aaother turn in the garden, to discourse farther on the 
subject of iron. He was very frank in communicating all his dear-bought 
experience to me, and told me very civilly he would not only let me into the 
whole secret, but would make a journey to James river, and give me his 
faithful opinion of all my conveniences. For his part he wished there were 
many more iron works in the country, provided the parties concerned would 
pi'eserve a constant harmony among themselves, and meet and consult fre- 
quently, what might be for their common advantage. By this they might be 
better able to manage the workmen, and reduce their wages to what was 
just and reasonable. After this frank speech, he began to explain the whole 
charge of an iron work. He said, there ought at least to be a hundred 
negroes employed in it, and those upon good land would make corn, and 
raise provisions enough to support themselves and the cattle, and do every 
other part of the business. That the furnace might be built for seven hun- 
dred pounds, and made ready to go to work, if I went the nearest way to do 
it, especially since eoming after so many, I might correct their errors and 
avoid their miscarriages. That if I had ore and wood enough, and a con- 
venient stream of water to set the furnace upon, having neither too much 
nor too little water, I might undertake the affair with a full assurance of 
success. Provided the distance of carting be not too great, which is exceed- 
ingly burdensome. That there must be abundance of wheel carriages, shod 
with iron, and several teams of oxen, provided to transport the wood that is 
to be coaled, and afterwards the coal and ore to the furnace, and last of all 
the sow iron to the nearest water carriage, and carry back limestone and 
other necessaries from thence to the works ; and a sloop also would be useful 
to carry the iron on board the ships, the masters not being always in the 
humour to fetch it. Then he enumerated the people that were to be hired, 
viz.: a founder, a mine-raiser, a collier, a stock-taker, a clerk, a smith, a 
carpenter, a wheelwright, and several carters. That these altogether will 
be a standing charge of about five hundred pounds a year. That the 
amount of freight, custom, commission and other charges in England, comes 
to twenty-seven shillings a ton. But that the merchants yearly find out 
means to inflame the account with new articles, as they do in those of to- 
bacco. That, upon the whole matter, the expenses here and in England may 
be computed modestly at two pounds a ton. And the rest that the iron sells 
for will be clear gain, to pay for the land and negroes, which it is to be hoped 
will be three pounds more for every ton that is sent over. As this account 
agi'eed pretty near with that which Mr. Chiswell had given me, I set it down 
(notwithstanding it may seem a repetition of the same thing) to prove that 
both these gentlemen were sincere in their representations. We had a Mi- 
chaelmas goose for dinner, of Miss Theky's own raising, who was now good- 
natured enough to forget the jeopardy of her dog. In the afternoon we 
walked in a meadow by the river side, which winds in the form of a horse- 
shoe about Germanna, making it a peninsula, containing about four hundred 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. J35 

acres. Rappahannock forks about foiu'leen miles below this place, the northern 
branch beinc;^ the larger, and consequently must be the river that bounds my 
lord Fairfax's grant of the Northern Neck. 

30th. The sun rose clear this morning, and so did I, and finished all my 
little affairs by breakfast. It was then resolved to wait on the ladies on 
horseback, since the bright sun, the fine air, and the wholesome exercise, all 
invited us to it. We forded the river a little above the ferry, and rode six 
miles up the neck to a fine level piece of rich land, where we found about 
twenty plants of ginseng, with the scarlet berries growing on the top of the 
middle stalk. The root of this is of wonderful virtue in many cases, par- 
ticularly to raise the spirits and promote perspiration, which makes it a spe- 
cific in colds and coughs. The colonel complimented me with all we found, 
in return for my telling him the virtues of it. We were all pleased to find, 
so much of this king of plants so near the colonel's habitation, and growing 
too upon his own land; but were, however, surprised to find it upon level 
ground, after we had been told it grew only upon the north side of stony 
mountains. I carried home this treasure, with as much joy, as if every root 
had been a graft of the tree of life, and washed and dried it carefully. This 
airing made us as hungry as so many hawks, so that between appetite and 
a very good dinner, it was difficult to eat like a philosopher. In the 
afternoon the ladies walked me about amongst all their little animals, with 
which they amuse themselves, and furnish the table;. the worst of it is, they 
are so tender-hearted, they shed a silent tear every time any of them are 
killed. At night the colonel and I quitted the threadbare subject of iron, 
and changed the scene to politics. He told me the ministry had receded 
from their demand upon New England, to raise a standing salary for all 
succeeding governors, for fear some curious members of the house of com- 
mons should inquire how the money was disposed of, that had been raised 
in the other American colonies for the support of their governors. And 
particularly what becomes of the four and a half per cent., paid in the sugar 
colonies for that purpose. That duty produces near twenty thousand pounds 
a year, but being remitted into the exchequer, not one of the West India 
governors is paid out of it; but they, like falcons, are let loose upon 
the people, who are complaisant enough to settle other revenues upon 
them, to the great impoverishing of these colonies. In the mean time, 
it is certain the money raised by the four and a half per cent, moulders away 
between the minister's fingers,. no body knows how, like the quitrents of 
Virginia. And it is for this reason that the instructions, forbidding all govern- 
ors to accept of any presents from their assemblies, are dispensed with in the 
sugar islands, while it is strictly insisted upon every where else, where the as- 
serilblies were so wise as to keep their revenues among themselves. He said 
further, that if the assembly in New England would stand bluff", he did not 
see how they could be forced to raise money against their will, for if they 
should direct it to be done by act of parliament, which they have threatened 
to do, (though it be against the right of Englishmen to be taxed, but by their 
representatives,) yet they would find it no easy matter to put such an act 
in execution. Then the colonel read me a lecture upon tar, affirming that it 
cannot be made in this warm climate, after the manner they make it hi Swe- 
den and Muscovy, by barking the tree two yards from the ground, whereby 
the turpentine descends all into the stump in a year's time, which is then split 
in pieces in order for the kiln. But here the sun fries out the turpentine in 
the branches of the tree, when the leaves are dried, and hinders it from 
descending. But, on the contrary, those who burn tar of lightwood in the 
common way, and are careful about it, make as good as that which comes 
from the east country, nor will it burn the cordage more than that does. 



136 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

Then we entered upon the subject of hemp, which the colonel told me he 
never could raise here from foreign seed, but at last sowed the seed of wild 
hemp, (which is very common in the upper parts of the country) and that 
came up very thick. That he sent about live hundred pounds of it to Eng- 
land, and that the commissioners of the navy, after a full trial of it, reported 
to the lords of the admiralty, that it was equal in goodness to the best that 
comes from Riga. I told him if our hemp were never so good, it would not 
be worth the making here, even though they should continue the bounty. 
And my reason was, because labour is not more than two pence a day in 
the east country where they produce hemp, and here we cannot compute it 
at less than ten pence, which being five times as much as their labour, and 
considering besides, that our freight is three times as dear as theirs, the price 
that will make them rich will ruin us, as I have found by woful experience. 
Besides, if the king, who must have the refusal, buys our hemp, the navy is 
so long in paying both the price and the bounty, that we who live from hand 
to mouth cannot afford to wait so long for it. And then our good friends, 
the merchants, load it with so many charges, that they run away with great 
part of the profit themselves. Just like the bald eagle, which after the fish- 
ing hawk has been at great pains to catch a fish, pounces upon and takes it 
from him. Our conversation was interrupted by a summons to supper, for 
the ladies, to show their power, had by this time brouglit us tamely to go to 
bed with our bellies fuU, though w^e both at first declared positively against 
it. So very pliable a thing is frail man, when women have the bending of 
him. 

October 1st. Our ladies overslept themselves this morning, so that we did 
not break our fast till ten. We drank tea made of the leaves of ginseng, 
which has the virtues of the root in a w^eaker degree, and is not disagreeable. 
So soon as we could force our inclinations to quit the ladies, we took a turn 
on the terrace walk, and discoursetl upon quite a new subject. The colonel 
explained to me the difference betwixt the galleons and the flota, which very 
few people know. The galleons, it seems, are the ships which bring the trea- 
sure and other rich merchandise to Carthagena from Portobel, to which 
place it is brought over land, from Panama and Peru. And the flota is the 
squadron that brings the treasure, &c., from Mexico and New Spain, which 
make up at La Vera Cruz. Both these squadrons rendezvous at the Ha- 
vanna, from hence they shoot the gulf of Florida, in their return to Old 
Spain. That this important port of the Havanna is very poorly fortified, 
and worse garrisoned and provided, for which reason it may be easily taken. 
Besides, both the galleons and flota, being confined to sail through the gulf, 
might be intercepted by our stationing a squadron of men of war at the most 
convenient of the Bahama islands. And that those islands are of vast ton- 
sequence for that purpose. He told me also that the azogue ships are they 
that carry quicksilver to Portobello and La Vera Cruz, to refine the silver, 
and that, in Spanish, azogue signifies quicksilver. Then my friend unrid- 
dled to me the great mystery, why we have endured all the late insolences 
of the Spaniards so tamely. The asiento contract, and the liberty of send- 
ing a ship every year to the Spanish West Indies, make it very necessary 
for the South Sea Company to have effects of great value in that part of the 
world. Now these being always in the power of the Spaniards, make the 
directors of that company very fearful of a breach, and consequently very 
generous in their offers to the ministry to prevent it. For fear these worthy 
gentlemen should suffer, the English squadron, under Admiral Hosier, lay 
idle at the Bastimentos, till the ships' bottoms were eaten out by the worm, and 
the officers and men, to the number of five thousand, died like rotten sheep, 
without being suffered, by the strictest orders, to strike one stroke, though 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. I37 

they might have taken both the flota and galleons, and mede themselves 
masters of tlie Havanna into tlie bargain, if they had not been chained up 
from doing it. All this moderation, our peaceable ministry showed even at 
a time when the Spaniards were furiously attacking Gibraltar, and taking all 
the English ships they could, both in Europe and America, to the great and 
everlasting reproach of the British nation. That some of the ministry, be- 
ing tired out with the clamours of the merchants, declared their opinion for 
war, and while they entertained those sentiments they pitched upon him, 
Col. Spotswood, to be governor of Jamaica, that by his skill and experience 
in the art military, they might be the better able to execute their design of 
taking the Havanna. But the courage of these worthy patriots soon cooled, 
and the arguments used by the South Sea directors, persuaded them once 
again into more pacific measures. When the scheme was dropped, his 
government of Jamaica was dropped at the same time, and then general 
Hunter was judged fit enough to rule that island in time of peace. After 
this the colonel endeavoured to convince me that he came fairly by his place 
of postmaster-general, notwithstanding the report of some evil disposed 
persons to the contrary. The case was this, I\Ir. Hamilton, of New Jersey, 
who had formerly had that post, wrote to Col. Spotswood, in England, to 
favour him with his interest to get it restored to him. But the colonel, con- 
sidering wisely that charity began at home, instead of getting the place for 
Hamilton, secured it for a better friend : though, as he tells the story, that 
gentleman was absolutely I'efused, before he spoke the least good word for 
himself. 

2d. This being the day appointed for my departure from hence, I packed 
up my effects in good time ; but the ladies, whose dear companies we were 
to have to the mines, were a little tedious in their equipment. However, 
we made a shift to get into the coach by ten o'clock ; but little master, who 
is under no government, would by all means go on horseback. Before we 
set out I gave Mr. Russel the trouble of distributing a pistole among the 
servants, of which I fancy the nurse had a pretty good share, being no small 
favourite. We drove over a fine road to the mines, which lie thirteen mea- 
sured miles from the Germanna, each mile being marked distinctly upon the 
trees. The colonel has a great deal of land in his mine tract exceedingly 
barren, and the growth of trees upon it is hardly big enough for coaling. 
However, the treasure under ground makes amends, and renders it worthy 
to be his lady's jointure. We lighted at the mines, which are a mile nearer to 
Germanna than the furnace. They raise abundance of ore there, great 
part of which is very rich. We saw his engineer blow it up after the follow- 
ing manner. He drilled a hole about eighteen inches deep, humouring the 
situation of the mine. When he had dried it with a rag fastened to a worm, 
he charged it with a cartridge containing four ounces of powder, including 
the priming. Then he rammed the hole up with soft stone to the very mouth ; 
after that he pierced through all with an iron called a primer, which is taper 
and ends in a sharp point. Into the hole the primer makes the priming is 
put, which is fired by a paper moistened with a solution of saltpetre. And 
this burns leisurely enough, it seems, to give time for the persons concerned 
to retreat out of harm's way. All the land hereabouts seems paved with 
iron ore ; so that there seems to be enough to feed a furnace for many ages. 
From hence we proceeded to the furnace, which is built of rough stone, 
having been the first of that kind erected in the country. It had not blown 
for several moons, the colonel having taken off great part of his people to 
carry on his air furnace at Massaponux. Here the wheel that carried the 
bellows was no more than twenty feet diameter; but was an overshot wheel 
that went with little water. This was necessary here, because water is 



I 33 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

something scarce, notwithstanding it is supplied by two streams, one of 
which is conveyed one thousand and nine hundred feet through wooden 
pipes, and the other sixty. The name of the founder employed at present 
is one Godfrey, of the kingdom of Ireland, whose wages is three shillings 
and sixpence per ton for all the iron he runs, and his provisions. This man 
told me that the best wood for coaling is red oak. He complained that the 
colonel starves his works out of whimsicalness and frugality, endeavouring 
to do every thing with his own people, and at the same time taking them 
off upon every vagary that comes into his head. Here the coal carts dis- 
charge their load at folding doors, made at the bottom, which is sooner done, 
and shatters the coal less. They carry no more than one hundred and ten 
bushels. The colonel advised me by all means to have the coal made on the 
same side the river with the furnace, not only to avoid the charge of boat- 
ing and bags, but likewise to avoid breaking of the coals, and making them 
less fit for use. Having picked the bones of a sirloin of beef, we took 
leave of the ladies, and rode together about five miles, where the roads part- 
ed. The colonel took that to Massaponux, which is fifteen miles from his 
furnace, and very level, and I that to Fredericksburg, which cannot be less 
than twenty. I was a little benighted, and should not have seen my way, 
if the lightning, which flashed continually in my face, had not befriended me. 
I got about seven o'clock to Col. Harry Willis's, a little moistened with the 
rain ; but a glass of good wine kept my pores open, and prevented all rheums 
and defluxions for that time. 

3d. I was obliged to rise early here, that I might not starve my landlord, 
whose constitution requires him to swallow a beef-steak before the sun 
blesses the world with its genial rays. However, he was so complaisant 
as to bear the gnawing of his stomach, till eight o'clock for my sake. Col. 
Waller, after a score of loud hems to clear his throat, broke his fast along 
with us. When this necessary affair was despatched, Col. Willis walked me 
about his town of Fredericksburg. It is pleasantly situated on the south 
shore of Rappahannock river, about a mile below the falls. Sloops may 
come up and lie close to the wharf, within thirty yards of the public ware- 
houses, which are built in the figure of a cross. Just by the wharf is a 
quarry of white stone that is very soft in the ground, and hardens in the air, 
appearing to be as fair and fine grained as that of Portland. Besides that, 
there are several other quarries in the river bank, within the limits of the 
town, sufficient to build a large city. The only edifice of stone yet built is 
the prison ; the walls of which are strong enough to hold Jack Sheppard, 
if he had been transported thither. Though this be a commodious and 
beautiful situation for a town, with the advantages of a navigable river, and 
wholesome air, yet the inhabitants are very few. Besides Col. Willis, who is 
the top man of the place, there are only one merchant, a tailor, a smith and 
an ordinary keeper ; though I must not forget Mrs. Levistone, who acts here 
in the double capacity of a doctress and coffee woman. And were this a 
populous city, she is qualified to exercise two other callings. It is said the 
court-house and the church are going to be built here, and then both religion 
and justice will help to enlarge the place. Two miles from this place is a 
spring strongly impregnated with alum, and so is the earth all about it. 
This water does wonders for those that are afflicted with a dropsy. And on 
the other side the river, in King George county, twelve miles from hence, is 
another spring of strong steel water, as good as that at Tunbridge Wells. Not 
far from this last spring are England's iron mines, called so from the chief ma- 
nager of them, though the land belongs to Mr. Washington. These mines are 
two miles from the furnace, and Mr. Washington raises the ore, and carts it 
thither for twenty shillings the ton of iron that it yields. The furnace is built 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. ] 39 

on a run, which discharges its waters into Potomac. And when the iron 
is cast, they cart it about six miles to a landing on that river. Besides Mr, 
Washington and Mr. England, there are several other persons, in England, 
concerned in these works. Matters are very well managed there, and no 
expense is spared to make them profitable, which is not the case in the 
works I have already mentioned. Mr. England can neither write nor read ; 
but without those helps, is so well skilled in iron works, that he does not only , 
carry on his furnace, but has likewise the chief management of the works 
at Principia, at the head of the bay, where they have also erected a forge 
and make very good bar iron. Col. Willis had built a flue to try all sorts 
of ore in, which was contrived after the following manner. It was built of 
stone four feet square with an iron grate fixed in the middle of it for the 
fire to lie upon. It was open at the bottom, to give a free passage to the 
air up to the grate. Above the grate was another opening that carried the 
smoke into a chimney. This makes a draught upward, and the fire rarify- 
ing the air below, makes another draught underneath, which causes the 
fire to burn very fiercely, and melt any ore in the crucibles that are set 
upon the fire. This was erected by a mason called Taylor, who told me 
he built the furnace at Fredericksville, and came in for that purpose at three 
shillings and sixpence a day, to be paid him from the time he left his house 
in Gloucestershire, to the time he returned thither again, unless he chose 
rather to remain in Virginia after he had done his work. It happened to be 
court day here, but the rain hindered all but the most quarrelsome people 
from coming. The colonel brought three of his brother justices to dine with 
us, namely, John Talifero, major Lightfoot, and captain Green, and in the 
evening parson Kenner edified us with his company, who left this parish 
for a better, without any regard to the poor souls he had half saved, of the 
flock he abandoned. 

4th. The sun rising very bright, invited me to leave this infant city; 
accordingly, about ten, I took leave of my hospitable landlord, and persuaded 
parson Kenner to be my guide to Massaponux, lying five miles off, where I 
had agreed to meet Col. Spotswood. We arrived there about twelve, and 
found it a very pleasant and commodious plantation. The colonel received 
us with open arms, and carried us directly to his air furnace, which is a very 
ingenious and profitable contrivance. The use of it is to melt his sow iron, 
in order to cast it into sundry utensils, such as backs for chimneys, andirons, 
fenders, plates for hearths, pots, mortars, rollers for gardeners, skillets, boxes 
for cart wheels ; and many other things, which, one with another, can be 
afforded at twenty shillings a ton, and delii'ered at people's own homes. And, 
being cast from the sow iron, are much better than those which come from 
England, which are cast immediately from the ore for the most part. Mr. 
Flowry is the artist that directed the building of this ingenious structure, 
which is contrived after this manner. There is an opening about a foot 
square for the fresh air to pass through from without. This leads up to an 
iron grate that holds about half a bushel of sea coal, and is about six feet 
higher than the opening. When the fire is kindled, it rarefies the air in such 
a manner as to make a very strong draught from without. About too feet 
above the grate is a hole that leads into a kind of oven, the floor of which is 
laid shelving towards the mouth. In the middle of this oven,. on one side, is 
another hole that leads into the funnel of a chimney, about forty feet high. 
The smoke mounts up this way, drawing the flame after it with so much 
force, that in less than an hour it melts the sows of iron that are thrust to- 
wards the upper end of the oven. As the metal melts it runs towards the 
mouth into a hollow place, out of which the potter lades it in iron ladles. 
In order to pour it into the several moulds just by. The mouth of the oven 



140 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

is stopped close witli a moveable stone shutter, whicli he removes so soon 
as he perceives, through the peep linles, that the iron is melted. The inside 
of the oven is lined with soft biicks, made of Sturbridge or Windsor clay, 
because no other will endure the intense heat of the fire. And over the 
floor of the oven they strew sand taken from the land, and not from tlie 
water side. This sand will melt the second heat here, but that which they 
use in England will bear the fire four or five times. The potter is also 
obliged to plaster over his ladles with the same sand moistened, to save 
them from melting. Here are two of these air furnaces in one room, that 
so in case one wants repair, the other may work, they being exactly of the 
same .structure. The chimneys and other outside work of this building are 
of free-stone, raised near a mile off, on the colonel's own land. And were 
built by his servant, whose name is Kerby, a very complete workman. This 
man disdains to do any thing of rough work, even where neat is not required, 
lest any one might say hereafter, Kerby did it. The potter was so com- 
plaisant as to show me the whole process, for which I paid him and the other 
workmen my respects in the most agreeable way. There was a great deal 
of ingenuity in the framing of the moulds, wherein they cast the several 
utensils, but without breaking them to pieces, I found there was no being let 
into that secret. The flakes of iron that fall at the mouth of the oven are 
called geets, which are melted over again. The colonel told me, in my ear, 
that Mr. Robert Gary, in England, was concerned with him, both in this and 
his other iron works, not only to help support the charge, but also to make 
friends to the undertaking at home. His honour has settled his cousin, Mr. 
Greame, here as postmaster, with a salary of sixty pounds a year, to reward 
him for having ruined his estate while he was absent. Just by the air fur- 
nace stands a very substantial wharf, close to which any vessel may ride in 
safety. After satisfying our eyes with all these sights, we satisfied our 
stomachs with a sirloin of beef, and then the parson and I took leave of the 
colonel, and left our blessing upon all his works. We took our way from 
thence to major Woodford's, seven miles off, who lives upon a high hill that 
affords an extended prospect. On which account it is dignified with the 
name of Windsor. There we found Rachel Cocke, who stayed with her sister 
some time, that she might not lose the use of her tongue in this lonely place. 
W^e were received graciously, and the evening was spent in talking and 
toping, and then the parson and I were conducted to the same apartment, 
the house being not yet finished. 

5th. The parson slept very peaceably, and gave me no disturbance, so I 
rose fresh in the morning, and did credit to the air by eating a hearty break- 
fast. Then major Woodford carried me to the house where he cuts tobacco. 
He manufactures about sixty hogsheads yearly, for which he gets after the 
rate of eleven pence a pound, and pays himself liberally for his trouble. The 
tobacco he cuts is long green, which, according to its name, bears a very 
long leaf, and consequently each plant is heavier than common sweet-scented 
or Townsend tobacco. The worst of it is the veins of the leaf are very large, 
so that it loses its weight a good deal by stemming. This kind of tobacco 
is much the fashion in these parts, and Jonathan Forward (who has great 
interest here) gives a good price for it. This sort the major cuts up, and 
has a man that performs it very handily. The tobacco is stemmed clean in 
the first place, and then laid straight in a box, and pressed down hard by a 
press that goes with a nut. This box is shoved forward towards the knife 
by a screw, receiving its motion from a treadle, that the engineer sets a-going 
with his foot. Each motion pushes the box the exact length which the to- 
bacco ought to be of, according to the saffron or oblong cut, which it seems 
yields one penny in a pound more at London than the square cut, though 



PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 141 

at Bristol they are both of equal price. The man strikes down the knife 
once at every motion of the screw, so that his hand and foot keep exact 
pace with each other. After the tobacco is cut in this manner, it is sifted 
first through a sand riddle, and then through a dust riddle, till it is perfectly 
clean. Then it is put into a tight hogshead, and pressed under the nut, till 
it weighs about a thousand net. One man performs all the work after the 
tobacco is stemmed, so that the charge bears no proportion to the profit. 
One considerable benefit from planting long green tobacco is, that it is much 
harder, and less subject to fire than other sweet scented, though it smells not 
altogether so fragrant. I surprised Mrs. Woodford in her housewifery in the 
meat-house, at which she blushed as if it had been a sin. We all walked about 
a mile in the woods, where I showed them several useful plants, and explained 
the virtues of them. This exercise, and the fine air we breathed in, sharpened 
our appetites so much that we had no mercy on a rib of beef that came attend- 
ed with several other good things at dinner. In the afternoon, we tempted all 
the family to go along with us to major Ben. Robinson's, who lives on a high hill, 
called Moon's^Mount, about five miles off". On the road we came to an eminence, 
from whence we had a plain view of the mountains, which seemed to be no 
more than thirty miles from us, in a straight line, though, to go by the road, it 
was near double that distance. The sun had just time to light us to our jour- 
ney's end, and the major received us with his usual good humour. He has a 
very industrious wife, who has kept him from sinking by the weight of gam- 
ing and idleness. But he is now reformed from those ruinous qualities, and 
by the help of a clerk's place, in a quarrelsome county, will soon be able to 
clear his old scores. We drank exceeding good cider here, the juice of the 
white apple, which made us talkative till ten o'clock, and then I was conduct- 
ed to a bed-chamber, where there was neither chair nor table ; however, I 
slept sound, and waked with strong tokens of health in the morning. 

6th. When I got up about sunrise, I was surprised to find that a fog had cov- 
ered this high hill ; but there is a marsh on the other side the river that sends 
its filthy exhalation up to the clouds. On the borders of that morass lives 
Mr. Lomax, a situation fit only for frogs and otters. After fortifying myself 
with toast and cider, and sweetening my lips with saluting the lady, I took 
leave, and the two majors conducted me about four miles on my way, as far 
as the church. After that, Ben. Robinson ordered his East Indian to conduct 
me to Col. Martin's. In about ten miles, we reached Caroline court-house, 
where Col. Armstead and Col. Will. Beverley, have each of them erected an 
ordinary, well supplied with wine and other polite liquors, for the worshipful 
bench. Besides these, there is a rum ordinary for persons of a more vulgar 
taste. Such liberal supplies of strong drink often make Justice nod, and drop 
the scales out of her hands. Eight miles beyond the ordinary, I arrived at 
Col. Martin's, who received me with more gravity than I expected. But, 
upon inquiry, his lady was sick, which had lengthened his face and gave him 
a very mournful air. I found him in his night-cap and banian, which is his 
ordinary dress in that retired part of the country. Poorer land I never saw 
than what he lives upon ; but the wholesomeness of the air, and the good- 
ness of the roads, make some amends. In a clear day the mountains may 
be seen from hence, which is, in truth, the only rarity of the place. At my 
first arrival, the colonel saluted me with a glass of good Canary, and soon after 
filled my belly with good mutton and cauliflowers. Two people were as 
indifferent company as a man and his wife, without a little inspiration from 
the bottle; and then we were forced to go to the kingdom of Ireland, to help 
out our conversation. There, it seems, the colonel had an elder brother, a phy- 
sician, who threatens him with an estate some time or another ; though pos- 
sibly it might come to him sooner if the succession depended on the death of 

T 



142 PROGRESS TO THE MINES. 

one of his patients. By eight o'clock at night we had no more to say, and I 
gaped wide as a signal for retiring, whereupon I was conducted to a clean 
lodging, where I would have been glad to exchange one of the beds for a 
chimney. 

7th. This morning Mrs. Martin was worse, so that there were no hopes of 
seeing how much she was altered. Nor was this all, but the indisposition of 
his consort made the colonel intolerably grave and thoughtful. I prudently ate 
a meat breakfast, to give me spirits for a long journey, and a long fast. My 
landlord was so good as to send his servant along with me, to guide me 
through all the turnings of a difficult way. In about four miles we crossed 
Mattaponi river at Norman's ford, and then slanted down to King William 
county road. We kept along that for about twelve miles, as far as the new 
brick church. After that I took a blind path, that carried me to several of 
Col. Jones's quarters, which border upon my own. The colonel's overseers 
were all abroad, which made me fearful I should find mine as idle as they. 
But I was mistaken, for when I came to Gravel Hall, the first of my planta- 
tions in King William, I found William Snead (that looks after three of them) ■ 
very honestly about his business. I had the pleasure to see my people all 
well, and my business in good forwardness. I visited all the five quarters on 
that side, which spent so much of my time, that I had no leisure to see any of 
those on the other side the river ; though I discoursed Thomas Tinsley, 
one of the overseers, who informed me how matters went. In the evening 
Tinsley conducted me to Mrs. Sym's house, where I intended to take up my 
quarters. This lady, at first suspecting I was some lover, put on a gravity 
that becomes a weed ; but so soon as she learned who I was, brightened up 
into an unusual cheerfulness and serenity. She was a portly, handsome dame, 
of the family of Esau, and seemed not to pine too much for the death of her hus- 
band, who was of the family of the Saracens. He left a son by her, who has all 
the strong features of his sire, not softened in the least by any of hers, so that the 
most malicious of her neighbours cannot bring his legitimacy in question, not 
even the parson's wife, whose unruly tongue, they say, does not spare even the 
reverend doctor, her husband. This widow is a person of a lively and cheer- 
ful conversation, with much less reserve than most of her countrywomen. 
It becomes her very well, and sets olf her other agreeable qualities to advan- 
tage. We tossed off a bottle of honest Port, which we relished with a broil- 
ed chicken. At nine I retired to my devotions, and then slept so sound that 
fancy itself was stupified, else I should have dreamed of my most obliging 
landlady. 

8th. I moistened my clay with a quart of milk and tea, which I found alto- 
gether as great a help to discourse as the juice of the grape. The courte- 
ous widow invited meto rest myself there that good day, and go to church 
with her, but I excused myself, by telling her she would certainly spoil my 
devotion. Then she civilly entreated me to make her house my home when- 
ever I visited my plantations, which made me bow low, and thank her very 
kindly. From thence I crossed over to Shaccoe's," and took Thomas Tins- 
ley for my guide, finding the distance about fifteen miles. I found every 
body well at the Falls, blessed be God, though the bloody flux raged pret- 
ty much in the neighbourhood. Mr. Booker had received a letter the day 
before from Mrs. Byrd, giving an account of great desolation made in our 
neighbourhood, by the death of Mr.- Lightfoot, Mrs. Soan, Capt. Gerald and 
Col. Henry Harrison. Finding the flux had been so fatal, I desired Mr. 
Booker to make use of the following remedy, in case it should come amongst 
my people. To let them blood immediately about eight ounces; the 
next day to give them a dose of Indian physic, and to repeat the vomit 
again the day following, unless the symptoms abated. In the meantime, 



PROGRESS TO THE iMINES. 



143 



they should eat nothing but chicken broth, and poached eggs, and drink 
nothing but a quarter of a pint of milk boiled with a quart of water, and 
medicated with a little mullein root, or that of the prickly pear, to restore the 
mucus of the bowels, and heal the excoriation. At the same time, I order- 
ed him to communicate this method to all the poor neighbours, and especial- 
ly to my overseers, with strict orders to use it on the first appearance of that 
distemper, because in that, and all other sharp diseases, delays are very 
dangerous. I also instructed Mr. Booker in the way I had learned of blow- 
ing up the rocks, which were now drilled pretty full of holes, and he pro- 
mised to put it in execution. After discoursing seriously with the father 
about my affairs, I joked with the daughter in the evening, and about eight 
retired to my castle, and recollected all the follies of the day, the little I 
had learned, and the still less good I had done. 

9th. My long absence made me long for the domestic delights of my own 
family, for the smiles of an affectionate wife, and the prattle of my inno- 
cent "Children. As soon as I sallied out of my castle, I understood that 
Col. Carter's Sam was come, by his master's leave, to show my people how to 
blow up the rocks in the canal. He pretended to great skill in that matter, 
but performed very little, which however might be the effect of idleness 
rather than ignorance. He came upon one of my horses, which he tied to a 
tree at Shacco's, where the poor animal kept a fast of a night and a day. 
Though this fellow worked very little at the rocks, yet my man, Argalus, stole 
his trade, and performed as well as he. For this good turn, I ordered Mr. 
Samuel half a pistole, all which he laid out with a New England man for 
rum, and made my weaver and spinning woman, who has the happiness 
to be called his wife, exceedingly drunk. To punish the varlet for all these 
pranks, I ordered him to be banished from thence for ever, under the penalty 
of being whipped home, from constable to constable, if he presumed to 
come again. I left my memoranda with Mr. Booker, of every thing I or- 
dered to be done, and mounted my horse about ten, and in little more reach- 
ed Bermuda Hundred, and crossed over to Col. Carter's. He, like an indus- 
trious person, was gone to oversee his overseers at North Wales, but his 
lady was at home, and kept me till supper time before we went to dinner. 
As soon as I had done justice to my stomach, I made my honours to the 
good humoured little fairy, and made the best of my way home, where I had 
the great satisfaction to find all that was dearest to me in good health, nor 
had any disaster happened in the family since I w^ent away. Some of the 
neighbours had worm fevers, with all the symptoms of the bloody ff ux ; but, 
blessed be God ! their distempers gave way to pi'oper remedies. 



CONTENTS. 



Editor's Preface, iii 

History of the Dividing Line, 1 

Appendix, 94 

A Journey to tlie Land of Eden, 103 

A Progress to the Mines, - 123 



4 



Lb S ;8 



